Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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TheotherSteveS

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im waiting tomorrow 32, 30 , 29 awg wire so i'll try with these also

28 should be ok. Try 8 spaced wraps of 28 around your 3mm bit. Should come in around 0.12 which is a bit more confortable for the kangxin. Dont make the wick too tight and juice it up well! You can blow on the coil also to get some cooling going on!
 
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TheBloke

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Did you notice how it flashed temp protect after he let go of the fire button? The real dna 40 does that. The Rayn board doesn't. I'm thinking that's a real $300 flask. Also look how flush the up and down buttons are. Could be wrong though.

Yeah I did notice that actually and thought it was odd - I didn't realise the real dna 40 does that. I'd really not think imagine 3FVape got an original just to get a video out earlier - my guess would be the latest Rayn has added that feature to make it more like the original. They added back in TP after not having it for a while, so definitely possible they made it work differently.
 
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Tpat591

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AtomizrOpin said:
Did you notice how it flashed temp protect after he let go of the fire button? The real DNA 40 does that. The Rayn board doesn't. I'm thinking that's a real $300 flask. Also look how flush the up and down buttons are. Could be wrong though.
Yeah I did notice that actually and thought it was odd - I didn't realise the real DNA 40 does that. I'd really not think imagine 3FVape got an original just to get a video out earlier - my guess would be the latest Rayn has added that feature to make it more like the original. They added back in TP after not having it for a while, so definitely possible they made it work differently.
3FVape didn't make the video. Waidea DID. They probably did use the original, Just like they did when Summer from Waidea took a video of the original Vapor Flask and put it on youtube way back in December.

They just sent the video to 3FVape to show off a product that they will be producing and 3FVape made the mistake of putting their name on it and posting it assuming it to be the clone.
 
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roxynoodle

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I am seeing resistance changes on my new Kangxin that are more than I see on other mods. My atty reads 0.63ohm on my meter and on the Flask anywhere from 0.61-0.72 ohm. It seems to bounce around with each vape. I'm guessing its the subpar 510? Any thoughts on that? Its not exactly huge changes, and doesn't affect my vape, but definitely more than I see on the sx minis. This is a kanthal build, btw as I haven't ventured into dual ti builds yet.

Also, any advice on removing this 510 to make it as easy as possible? Dwcraig was helpful for my Sig 100W as he was able to tell me everything was reverse threaded. Saved me a lot of grief :thumbs:
 

TheBloke

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3FVape didn't make the video. Waidea DID. They did use the original, Just like they did when Summer from Waidea took a video of the original Vapor Flask and put it on youtube way back in December.

They just sent the video to 3FVape to show off a product that they will be producing and 3FVape made the mistake of putting their name on it and posting it assuming it to be the clone.

Oh dear! How naughty. I hope for 3F's sake it's a good clone, then.
 
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SotosB

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When my batteries ar full charged, my sxk VF works fine. When they are midway disgarged, at about 3.7 V (I checked with a voltmeter) it lowers power in TC and normal mode. Now I have a Ti coil at 0.3 ohm and vape at 24 watts. When the batteries ar half charged it hits lower than 14 watt till I don't get any vapor at all. If I charge them it works perfect again. Anyone has the same problem? Still I have to screw really tight the bottom caps to have a connection with the batteries but they seem to drain evenly.
 

HolmanGT

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When my batteries ar full charged, my sxk VF works fine. When they are midway disgarged, at about 3.7 V (I checked with a voltmeter) it lowers power in TC and normal mode. Now I have a Ti coil at 0.3 ohm and vape at 24 watts. When the batteries ar half charged it hits lower than 14 watt till I don't get any vapor at all. If I charge them it works perfect again. Anyone has the same problem? Still I have to screw really tight the bottom caps to have a connection with the batteries but they seem to drain evenly.

Sorry if you have already answered this... but have you cleaned the anodizing off the threads? Also have you used any NOALOX on the threads.

If you continue muscling the bottom caps you may end up damaging the threads.
 

dwcraig1

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I am seeing resistance changes on my new Kangxin that are more than I see on other mods. My atty reads 0.63ohm on my meter and on the Flask anywhere from 0.61-0.72 ohm. It seems to bounce around with each vape. I'm guessing its the subpar 510? Any thoughts on that? Its not exactly huge changes, and doesn't affect my vape, but definitely more than I see on the sx minis. This is a kanthal build, btw as I haven't ventured into dual ti builds yet.

Also, any advice on removing this 510 to make it as easy as possible? Dwcraig was helpful for my Sig 100W as he was able to tell me everything was reverse threaded. Saved me a lot of grief :thumbs:
On mine where the ground wire is soldered to a screw in the side of the 510 I used flush cutters and "snipped" away the solder and simply unscrewed the screw. Then I placed the top plate with the 510 still in place upside down on the end of a 7/8" socket using it for a receiver and tapped the 510 out of the plate with a small hammer. The 510 appears to have some epoxy holding it, might want to scrape it off first best you can.
 
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dwcraig1

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When my batteries ar full charged, my sxk VF works fine. When they are midway disgarged, at about 3.7 V (I checked with a voltmeter) it lowers power in TC and normal mode. Now I have a Ti coil at 0.3 ohm and vape at 24 watts. When the batteries ar half charged it hits lower than 14 watt till I don't get any vapor at all. If I charge them it works perfect again. Anyone has the same problem? Still I have to screw really tight the bottom caps to have a connection with the batteries but they seem to drain evenly.
Sounds like you still have battery connection problems, connecting but with a low amp connection.
 

SotosB

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Sounds like you still have battery connection problems, connecting but with a low amp connection.

That's what I've thought too. When I check it with an ohm meter, the top screws and the bottom caps, I get no resistant, which means I have a solid connection. I've already brushed and cleaned the threads with alcohol but it didn't help much. I have to get some noalox...
 

dwcraig1

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That's what I've thought too. When I check it with an ohm meter, the top screws and the bottom caps, I get no resistant, which means I have a solid connection. I've already brushed and cleaned the threads with alcohol but it didn't help much. I have to get some noalox...
You can't find it by measuring ohms, set meter to DC voltage, one probe on battery cap, one on base of atty. Fire and read voltage. Check both caps.
 

seanol

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Well we have a man down! I was getting out of my car and the flask dropped about two feet to the ground. Have a wrap on it and it did not look too bad. Took the caps off and one was a little difficult. Both batteries have dents in the negative side.
When I hit the button, nothing! I tried hiting the down button for same atty and it fires! No screen though. Sucks cause I haven't had my flask long and they are not available anymore! Anyone know of one in gray available, I'm looking!
Thanks,
Sean
 

bussdriver

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3fvapes has 'em, but they're between 70 and 80 bucks.

I got one (Waidea I believe) from 3f, works great. Got a Waidea from Focal, it too works great. Have yet to experience problems others have spoken of. I think a wrap would be an excellent addition, as my work environment does take its toll on an anodized finish.

Repairs to clone flasks? I'd recommend either chuckin' it or replace the electronics with an Evolv board if possible. Mashed cases? No help there at all.

Since my Taifuns have adjustable center pins on the connector, I have absolutely no problem with a fixed pin in the mod connector. Not all devices share that luxury, but for those that do, resistance stability shines. I believe most folks who have that problem have a:) a dirty connector, or b:) a spring loaded connector, or c:)poor connections in the atomizer.

LONG LIVE PLAYTOYS!
 

seanol

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Case is fine. I was able to fix the threading so all is good. I thought about just putting in a DNA but I like the TC correction factor. I don't remember any of the others besides Infinite having that feature. I have titanium coming from Germany and really wanted to try that out. I can always get another zero mod though.
Thanks,
Sean
 

seanol

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Guys and @TheBloke :),
If you had to choose, what would you buy now? I like the fact that the flask is dual 8650. I have an email in to Focalcig to see if they will be selling any of the 60w flasks but if I am out, would you choose the Waidea or Kangixin? I really like this form factor. Disappointed it lasted such a short time!
Thanks,
Sean
 

TheBloke

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@seanol that totally sucks, sorry man :(

I would not buy either the Kangxin or the Waidea any more. I would buy the SXK as you already have. Focal have been promising to stock them any day now for the last week, but I think they are waiting on stock from SXK themselves. I will ask my SXK contact when I next speak to him.

Doris @ Focal is possibly reserving one for me as and when they do get them in, so if she contacts me when they arrive I will let her know to give mine to you. PM me your email address so I can set that up at the time. I'm not in a rush to get a second for the time being, until the resistance issues are fixed - although now I have started doing real temperature testing I am no longer exactly sure if there is a resistance issue, at least in terms of TC calculations. Will post findings on that later when I'm sure.

Anyway, hopefully it won't too much longer before focal have them. If you're really desperate VaporBreak.com have the 40W, or did last time I checked - they said they could source the 60w with 2-3 days notice but I'd assume they'd be kept waiting right now as well, as the bottleneck seems to be at SXK's end.

You have a Zero too, right? I suppose if you really felt like doing the work (and have experience in such stuff), you could swap the board/screen from the Zero to the Flask. You'd still only have one working unit but at least it'd be the dual battery one with screen-on-top.
 

seanol

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@TheBloke,
I can't begin to explain how much I appreciate the help. I still have the Zero but I decided that I didn't want two nonworking devices!

I have an email in to Doris so I will let you know how that ends up and I appreciate you holding your reservation for me. I will let you know how everything goes.

After this taste and this thread I have titanium coming, all my tanks converted, A Goliath, and an Aqua V2 on the way. To say I am loving TC and the ability to set NP is an understatement!

Thank you again for your help,
Sean
 

seanol

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@dwcraig1 ,
I agree but I don't have a DNA 40. Also, does it have NP? I can get any number of devices now from 40w up but I really want the NP function. I know I can simply reduce the temperature but I also know that once we start looking at other wires there will come a time where NP will be a requirement and not a luxury.

I also could be all wet!

I would rather get another flask than try to find a DNA 40. Although with the DNA 200 coming out they may start to drop in price.

I will pay forward my flask to someone once I have my replacement.

Thanks,
Sean
 

Unior

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@seanol,
Doris at Focal had also sent me a reply email a week or so ago concerning them getting SXK after I had emailed her early on. So I may or may not be able to get one. I too like @TheBloke am waiting on resistance issue to be fixed before getting another. Especially now that he(TheBloke) is in contact with SXK. I believe they will fix issue. I definitely want another. I have the 40w & want a 60w. So far though mine works great especially after I got nickel & started to make my coils. Anyway, my point is PM me if your attempts & theBloke's to get one don't work out & I will email Doris back & see what happens.
 
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