Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[aldenf]

It'll be interesting to see how they incorporate the dna 200 into a flask if they do decide to go that route. All I know is when the VS dna 200 comes up for pre-order, I will click "buy". What would be really neat is if evolv did what smoktech is doing with their xcube 2. They're using Bluetooth to connect to the device for adjustments. I don't have a computer. That would be a plus with me. Change my settings via my cellphone.

I think a DNA 200 Flask will look more like an iStick 50W...

 

[funkyrudi]

The SXK 60W version is now available on Focalecig!
Grab one while you can. They have only 5 black and 5 silver available (minus the ones that have already been ordered/reserved) and it could take a while before they get back in stock once these are gone.
Price is $69.82 which isn't bad considering they're being sold for $99 elsewhere.
Black version
Silver version

I had to buy one ;-)
cheaper than expected

 

[Shogun1024]

I agree with that, but drilling those same holes in the old RBA certainly could improve juice flow to your wicking should you experience issues in the future

My existing RBA's are drilled with a 9/32" and work great up to about 50w and vape till nothing

 

[dwcraig1]

I just built my first vertical coil in one of my ST OCC 1.2Ω heads using 28 gauge tempered Ni200 (4 mm ). 0.14Ω with about 10 wraps using cotton pad for wicking.
It works pretty good for my first crack at it.
@ 35 watts and 450F, no sign of TP message as yet using Evolv board.
I'm taking it to work with me to try it on my SXK flask, 40 watts isn't enough maybe.
Well I couldn't wait, put in on the SXK @ 50 watts and that was good. Took it to 60 and that was good, on the 3rd hit nothing, now ohms is way down (shorted) Will continue after work in the morning as this looks quite promising.
I do believe a problem exits with hot legs above 40 watts, I taste burnt rubber at 60 watts.
I guess I"ll have to buy some of the pre-made ones. (Monkey tail flavor)

Update: I revisited 60 watts and for sure monkey ...., I shall weld some 26 gauge nickel to the 28 gauge nickel and try again tomorrow.

 

[dwcraig1]

^^^^After 6 failed attempts to weld them wires I shirt canned the whole project and put the modified RBA with Nichrome (0.6Ω)
back in. It works great, now on to something else. This is the 25 mm ST BTW.

 

[Shogun1024]

^^^^After 6 failed attempts to weld them wires I shirt canned the whole project and put the modified RBA with Nichrome (0.6Ω)
back in. It works great, now on to something else. This is the 25 mm ST BTW.

Never welded mine, I've had decent success wire crimping silver wire with silver crimp beads to eliminate hot legs. A la my old school Golden Greek iAtty/Oddessyus/ithaka without issue. Just a thought if it may help

 

[HolmanGT]

Never welded mine, I've had decent success wire crimping silver wire with silver crimp beads to eliminate hot legs. A la my old school Golden Greek iAtty/Oddessyus/ithaka without issue. Just a thought if it may help

Shogun,

I don't know why more folks don't use the Silver Crimps and Silver wire. It is an instant cure for hot legs and erratic terminations. "Just Saying".

 

[druckle]

Shogun,

I don't know why more folks don't use the Silver Crimps and if Silver wire. It is an instant cure for hot legs and erratic terminations. "Just Saying".

I've got one reason more folks don't use them George....those things are TINY...
I have some but I took one look and I couldn't imagine how I would hold them in the right place and actually get them crimped.
Tips and tricks accepted.

Duane

 

[dwcraig1]

Well I have them, from the GG days, they make a connection just itching to go high resistance.
I shall try welding them again, I think I was charging the capacitor too much. I got pretty good at it before but hadn't used it in a while.
I thought about trying to join them using silver beads, I modified a stubby nosed pair of hemostats with which to crimp them. Getting them where you want them is pretty easy, keeping your good connection through the heating's and cooling's is not.

 

[HolmanGT]

I've got one reason more folks don't use them George....those things are TINY...
I have some but I took one look and I couldn't imagine how I would hold them in the right place and actually get them crimped.
Tips and tricks accepted.

Duane

Duane,

You are correct they are tiny (just the crimps) the crimp eyelets not so bad. That said if you use the crimping tool they sell for the job you place the crimp in the tool and just a little pressure and the tool will hang onto the crimp while you manipulate stuff.

Actually I do it like women that do bead work I just take the end of the wire and use it like a needle stick in down into the pile of crimps and thread one or two on the wire position where you want and crimp them.

The best argument I can make for them it my Lemo 2s using the crimp eyelets they sit a 0.12 ohms and never move and that is on the non locking DNA40. The other day I left it in the car at around 120F for an hour and a half came out and it was still reading 0.12 ohms. Brought it into the house at about 76F and it did drop to 0.11 for a few minutes and then refined right back to 0.12.

Duane, I'm telling ya it is Alchemy at it best and you don't even have to worry about be burnt at the stake for sacrilege. Unless of course you live in Salem.

 

[dwcraig1]

Well I just got my vertical OCC ST head finished using 28 gauge Ni200 with 26 gauge Ni200 legs crimped on. Just by chance mine is reading 0.12Ω. I'm going to try it out now.
Put in on my SXK flask @ 60 watts and 480F, no more monkey .....
Watts drop to 54 on the draw.
And of coarse on the SXK flask it reads 0.07Ω

 

[bsoplinger]

Think I've come into the discussion late...

Is there an issue with just building a coil from Ni200? As in hot legs and you're going with welding lower, ie. thicker, wire on as the legs to fix it?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[diceman1000]

So, since we can't post clones for sale in the ECF classifieds, anyone interested in buying my Waidea? I think I'd like an IPV 4 better...

 

[Tpat591]

Out of curiosity could you leave long tails and double them back toward the coil and twist the wire in the tail if you didn't have a wire welder?

 

[dwcraig1]

Think I've come into the discussion late...

Is there an issue with just building a coil from Ni200? As in hot legs and you're going with welding lower, ie. thicker, wire on as the legs to fix it?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Legs present a problem of some degree with any wire and any atty but with most atty's the legs are short enough that the problem is minimal

Out of curiosity could you leave long tails and double them back toward the coil and twist the wire in the tail if you didn't have a wire welder?

That is how I used to do the legs on Vivi Nova coils but In my opinion it didn't seem to do as well as other methods.

 

[druckle]

Out of curiosity could you leave long tails and double them back toward the coil and twist the wire in the tail if you didn't have a wire welder?

Yeah, that works.

 

[Tpat591]

Thought it should halve the resistance of the tail making it much less likely to heat up there.

 

[Tpat591]

Round 7 is going slower than I thought it would. Been stalled at 61(200s) & 14(40s) most of Monday! Guess everyone is waiting for the official release before jumping on board.

I'm starting to wonder if we'll ever hit the MOQ on the 40s.

 

[dwcraig1]

Well I was so impressed with just how well the crimps worked when properly crimped on my ST with ni200 that I brought out some of my older equipment also and used the crimps. The old rig sure has great flavor but darn it's tight on the air.
26 gauge nickel with 26 gauge Kanthal, my crimps are pretty small, I doubt if thicker wire would have fit.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Well I was so impressed with just how well the crimps worked when properly crimped on my ST with ni200 that I brought out some of my older equipment also and used the crimps. The old rig sure has great flavor but darn it's tight on the air.
26 gauge nickel with 26 gauge Kanthal, my crimps are pretty small, I doubt if thicker wire would have fit.

dwcraig1 - I got the parts in for that little 18650 battery discharging circuit and it works really well. I take the batteries out when they're low in MOD and then run them down to about 2.40 - 2.50 vdc remaining. The green LED is just barely glowing at that point. I then put them in my Xtar VP1 charger at 0.25amps charging current setting and let them charge all the way up to 4.20 vdc. This has renewed a couple of batteries that were not lasting as long as they used to be, plus a housemate of mine had a battery giving him fits too with not firing the MOD like it used to do. Renewed it with the circuit and a slow charge and he says it's like new.

Now I know that this is a process not to be done all the time, only when the battery is acting wonky.

Here's the schematic as a JPEG and PDF:

The resistors are as shown, very low ohms; 1 - 220 ohm, 2 - 1 ohm, 1 - 100 ohm.
The transistor is a TO-220 style NPN type with a heat sink tab attached for a heat sink, I used a clip-on style.
The diodes: CR1 & CR2 are hard to find as a 1N4934, but a 1N4935 is readily available and will sub with no issues.
The only difference is the "reverse voltage" cutoff.
The 1N4935 is higher but it doesn't make any difference in this circuit.

It's soldered on a 5cm x 7cm perfboard. If you want I'll upload a pic of it tomorrow.
Reminds me of my days years ago doing homebrew shortwave rigs and such.