Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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where did you get it? I have a vapor flask by vapor shark and it has the rubber coating. sofar I love it but, time will tell how long it will hold upit seems better than the coating on my vapor shark though
Ordered it from 3fvape with some spools it Ti01. I'm thinkin I shoulda waited a few days for the Vapor Flask SX to be released, especially after reading a ton of bad reviews on SXK VFs and SXK chips, but the nickel purity setting was the deal breaker for me. Hopefully these new batches are improved from the earlier batches.
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They are at least improved in terms of accurate resistance reading. They're still not going to give a particularly smooth or accurate TC vape. But they'll do good-enough TC with Stainless Steel, which is more than nearly every other TC mod and chip can claim. And the cost is tiny compared to an authentic VF, and compared to the few other mods with a full TCR scale. (The new smok mods are one exception, though not a full one - they're cheap and they have a TCR scale, but they won't go down far enough for Stainless Steel.)
Finally got my SXK flask sorted. Another round of battery thread scraping, and sanding a 2cm section of the top cap did the trick.
I tested it with the first nickel build I have done in many months. Twisted 28G Ni200 and 28G kanthal 3mm ID single coil @ 0.17 ohms on a MutationX V3 with one row of holes open. It hits nicely up to 40 watts with no temp protection, lots of vapor and flavor but still a little cool for my liking.
I have some titanium on order as I still have my doubts about the safety of nickel.
I tested it with the first nickel build I have done in many months. Twisted 28G Ni200 and 28G kanthal 3mm ID single coil @ 0.17 ohms on a MutationX V3 with one row of holes open. It hits nicely up to 40 watts with no temp protection, lots of vapor and flavor but still a little cool for my liking.
I have some titanium on order as I still have my doubts about the safety of nickel.
What do you guys think about the 3F "special version" of the Vapor Flask Squonker, selling for $45.99 ?
From what I know there are only 2 manufacturers of VF Squonk clone, dont really grasp the 'special version' advertisement.
I dont think i can put the link here but google
3FVAPE VF SQUONK STYLE TEMPERATURE CONTROL VW VARIABLE WATTAGE APV MOD
From what I know there are only 2 manufacturers of VF Squonk clone, dont really grasp the 'special version' advertisement.
I dont think i can put the link here but google
3FVAPE VF SQUONK STYLE TEMPERATURE CONTROL VW VARIABLE WATTAGE APV MOD
You definitely should not be using Ni200 without temp control, even if it is twisted with kanthal.
Why not. The general (slightly rabid and indignant) consensus on ECF seems to be that it's safe?
Over ~650F you get dangerously close to grafitization. Read here.
https://m.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/2tcain/ni200_wire_safety/
https://m.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/2tcain/ni200_wire_safety/
I don't dry burn, and I don't go above 450/60 F. Grafitization occurs at around 800 F. Am I missing something?
If you don't use temp control, how do you know what your coil temp is?
It appears to have their name on it.
I think thats the picture watermark where their name appears. It should be one of the two manufacturers of the VF clones (waidea and .... forgot the other one).
I was trying to understand the price point of $45.99 - whats the catch. Could it be 'that manufacturer' where you can see the board exposed when taking out the squonk bottle? But that didnt have the VF embos above the USB, as per the pics on their site... Judging by the pictures it looks like a real good clone.
Yes, watermark it is. I should have looked at their other items. Looks like Waidea or Yiloong
Edit, Yiloong most likely.
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Ok, I read your post again and now I understand, that you misunderstood me. I am using TC.
The nickel carries the electricity, as it follows the path of least resistance. The kanthal conducts the heat from the nickel adding mass and surface area. The kanthal also adds rigidity to the coil making it more manageable. It's a similar principle to a clapton coil.
This post involves a silver Waidea 40 watt flask. My friend bought a Waidea flask upon seeing mine. It worked great for the first couple of months when after that he started complaining about poor battery life. We changed the batteries and also checked to make sure it was using both. So we then measured the voltage between the battery caps and base of a 1.2Ω atty while firing, the result was 0.7 volts so we cleaned the bottom of the top plate and top of the mod where the plate contacts and no more low battery so quickly. Just scraped at it with a razor blade (carefully).
I may have posted about this before but didn't include that it fixed it.
Oh, voltage measured after cleaning between battery caps and atty base while firing was 0.03 volts.
I may have posted about this before but didn't include that it fixed it.
Oh, voltage measured after cleaning between battery caps and atty base while firing was 0.03 volts.
Oooh. Now we're on the same page haha. I read it as if you were running straight power to it. Glad that's cleared up.
What did you use to clean/sand it? Do you have pics of the top cap? I am thinking of doing mine this weekend. Thanks
Made my first Ti build today.
I stupidly ordered 28 awg which is way too thin so I had to use it twisted to get a reasonable resistance.
My SXK Flask (low resistance bug) displays 0.35 Ohm and to start off I've set my NP to 30.
Now the strange thing is, I've set it to 410F but when I fire it (25W) it only displays a temperature of around 77F, even though the vape is nice and feels like around 410F.
So what's with the low temperature display? It'll never use temperature control this way and I might as well turn it off (which isn't something you want when using Ti). Am I missing something? Coil is twisted 28 awg, non spaced.
I stupidly ordered 28 awg which is way too thin so I had to use it twisted to get a reasonable resistance.
My SXK Flask (low resistance bug) displays 0.35 Ohm and to start off I've set my NP to 30.
Now the strange thing is, I've set it to 410F but when I fire it (25W) it only displays a temperature of around 77F, even though the vape is nice and feels like around 410F.
So what's with the low temperature display? It'll never use temperature control this way and I might as well turn it off (which isn't something you want when using Ti). Am I missing something? Coil is twisted 28 awg, non spaced.
I've been using 28g twisted Ti in a dripper and my Subtank. They both work fine and TC kicks at 230C. I have the SXK flask too. Never got a dry hit. I have my coils spaced and I didn't annealed them, I built them and used them as it is. Check if you've tighten your screws well for a start.
Never mind. Just tried a spaced coil and everything's fine.
Dang! I thought Ti could be used non-spaced. I hate to make and use spaced coils
Dang! I thought Ti could be used non-spaced. I hate to make and use spaced coils
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