Vapor Flask

[ukeman]

It seem to show full battery for about half the charge and then starts dropping. Kind of like the gas gauge in my car. I fill it up and drive 100 miles before the gauge starts dropping then the next 100 takes it down to a quarter of a tank!
The flask is working great though. I have a nickel build on one of my Taifun GTs and its running fine and switch over to a K4 with kanthal with no worries.

All devices with the DNA40 chip have the issue... batt meter not concise. I guess the choice is to either run it down to "weak battery" signal or change out as soon as it starts dropping to less than half.

My one issue with the Flask is the batt channels are tight. The side opposite the button is the worst.
What bugs me is that most of the appropriate batts don't fit well if at all. Out of 4 different brands I have the Sony VTC's work best, but they are the hardest to get vs. ie the blue Samsungs. Even the purple Efest 35amp don't fit at all.

 

[BNEAT]

double post

Phone wouldn't let me edit

 

[BNEAT]

Man, that would suck! I'm glad mine isn't like that. I've yet to find a battery that doesn't fit, even the purple eFests slip right in.

 

[ukeman]

I have to nurse my 3 sets of VTC4's for the Flask40. I had to strip off the labels too.

I had bought 6 sets of light blue Sammy's ... dang. But I have 5 mods that I use every day anyway.

I vape mostly at home, but keep something in the vehicle for driving.

As far as the proprietary batt XPV goes, I'd never take it out unless I knew it was charged. I keep it near the computer and am always hooking it up to the USB port.

Untll my Vapor Shark rdna 40D arrives (next week) when I get to assess it, the VF is my top mod.

THe good thing about each high end mod ($$$) is that they are backed up by good vendors.
It took a couple days less than 2 weeks to get my VF40 back unglitched, so all the DNA40 suppliers are class acts imo.

 

[KY_Rob]

Just ordered a Black VF DNA40 from Vapinart! It's in stock, so I would expect to have it it no later than Thursday. Have 2 new Samsung INR18650's set aside for it, and I'm raring to go!

 

[snow blind]

Does it have the larger screen? If you say yes to that I am really going to be POed. !!!

They do not. And they have no plans on going to the larger DNA40 screen according to the Plumes of Hazard episode a few weeks ago when the owner of VF was on there talking about it.


I just want a 100watt flask... please, please!

 

[ukeman]

Just ordered a Black VF DNA40 from Vapinart! It's in stock, so I would expect to have it it no later than Thursday. Have 2 new Samsung INR18650's set aside for it, and I'm raring to go!

^are those the light blue Samsung 25R's? because my first run VF40 gives me fits trying to install the batts.
The and one side is tighter than the other too.
I had to take the stickers off and use a green scrubby pad to work it down and even then a tight fit; but at least i can use them

 

[BNEAT]

I haven't heard anyone bring up battery fitment issues lately, I think they must have made the holes larger.

 

[HolmanGT]

^are those the light blue Samsung 25R's? because my first run VF40 gives me fits trying to install the batts.
The and one side is tighter than the other too.
I had to take the stickers off and use a green scrubby pad to work it down and even then a tight fit; but at least i can use them

Frist I remove all sticky labels then I use a medium grit sandpaper to take off all the printing and sheen on the plastic coating. Then I take green scrubber pads by Scotch Brite to smooth them up a bit.

Then I take a black magic marker and add whatever info about the battery I want and mark them in pairs "A" and "A", "B" and "B"... etc. to keep them in matched pairs

I have yet to have any problem with any make or model 18650 bat including the Fattest Efests

PS - If you put a battery in that has a Sticky Label on it (even just to test) you may not ever be able to get it back out.

 

[snow blind]

Frist I remove all sticky labels then I use a medium grit sandpaper to take off all the printing and sheen on the plastic coating. Then I take green scrubber pads by Scotch Brite to smooth them up a bit.

Then I take a black magic marker and add whatever info about the battery I want and mark them in pairs "A" and "A", "B" and "B"... etc. to keep them in matched pairs

I have yet to have any problem with any make or model 18650 bat including the Fattest Efests

I love the tight tolerances... i love everything about the Flask... but the need for battery prep if you don't want to use VTCs, LGs, or a few others stock out the package.
The owner goes over the reasoning behind the battery fitment here in episode 52 of Plumes. I'm going to buy a Flask... i've been waiting for them to address the battery tubes... the DNA40 issues... and hopefully a higher wattage. It's getting so hard to keep from purchasing but i really need something that does 50 watts at a minimum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbtOyfbhOSE

 

[ukeman]

I haven't heard anyone bring up battery fitment issues lately, I think they must have made the holes larger.

were i a smarter vaper and not just a nic crazed fiend, I'd have asked about it when i sent it in... doh maybe they would have switched it out?

after seeing the vid ^ never mind; hey its a great mod...

 

[HolmanGT]

were i a smarter vaper and not just a nic crazed fiend, I'd have asked about it when i sent it in... doh maybe they would have switched it out?

ukeman,

Me too... but I didn't want to muddy the water I just wanted mine to work and back as fast as possible.

I just don't understand why they designed them so tight in the first place. Personally I could live with a little battery rattle apposed to a battery that gets stuck and you can't get it out.

If one got stuck in there I don't know how you would ever get it out without sending into VF and have them open it and push it out from the top. You can't even run the battery down to zero charge drill it and use a screw to pull it out because the Chip won't let if fire below 3.2 volts and if you drilled it with that much charge still in the battery you might be in for one He!! of a surprise.

 

[KY_Rob]

^are those the light blue Samsung 25R's? because my first run VF40 gives me fits trying to install the batts.
The and one side is tighter than the other too.
I had to take the stickers off and use a green scrubby pad to work it down and even then a tight fit; but at least i can use them

ukeman,

Me too... but I didn't want to muddy the water I just wanted mine to work and back as fast as possible.

I just don't understand why they designed them so tight in the first place. Personally I could live with a little battery rattle apposed to a battery that gets stuck and you can't get it out.

If one got stuck in there I don't know how you would ever get it out without sending into VF and have them open it and push it out from the top. You can't even run the battery down to zero charge drill it and use a screw to pull it out because the Chip won't let if fire below 3.2 volts and if you drilled it with that much charge still in the battery you might be in for one He!! of a surprise.

Yep, they're the light blue ones. All of my vape gear stays locked up in the basement, where it's cool (not cold) and dark. I'm hoping a nice cold flask will allow those batteries to slip right in.

 

[ignotus]

Just ordered a Black VF DNA40 from Vapinart! It's in stock, so I would expect to have it it no later than Thursday. Have 2 new Samsung INR18650's set aside for it, and I'm raring to go!

Yeah they're pretty fast, though they didn't give me a tracking number until I emailed and asked for it.

I ordered mine about two weeks ago and have had no problems. Hopefully it'll be the same for you.

 

[ignotus]

I haven't heard anyone bring up battery fitment issues lately, I think they must have made the holes larger.

I was concerned about two things: whether the Samsungs would fit and whether the screen would be straight. The batteries slid right in and the screen was perfect. I'm happy.

(One should not, however, feel like he's rolling the dice for this kind of money.)

 

[jaxgator]

I'm going to buy a Flask... i've been waiting for them to address the battery tubes... the DNA40 issues... and hopefully a higher wattage. It's getting so hard to keep from purchasing but i really need something that does 50 watts at a minimum.

Unless Evolv comes out with a higher wattage board, don't expect to see anything other than the 40 watts in the current version of the Flask.

 

[Major911]

I love the tight tolerances... i love everything about the Flask... but the need for battery prep if you don't want to use VTCs, LGs, or a few others stock out the package.
The owner goes over the reasoning behind the battery fitment here in episode 52 of Plumes. I'm going to buy a Flask... i've been waiting for them to address the battery tubes... the DNA40 issues... and hopefully a higher wattage. It's getting so hard to keep from purchasing but i really need something that does 50 watts at a minimum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbtOyfbhOSE

Don't let wattage be your caveat, with the dna40 and super low resistance nickel wire 40w is more than enough. My typical build is .12 - .16 and I've never needed more than 25w to get a warm flavorful vape at 450 degrees.

 

[snow blind]

Unless Evolv comes out with a higher wattage board, don't expect to see anything other than the 40 watts in the current version of the Flask.

Yeah they are firmly backing Evolv... which i think is super awesome! I just really don't get why they're not (who knows, they might be) going to release a high watt temp DNA board. They need to ASAP... and i need one in a new v3 Vapor Flask! lol

Don't let wattage be your caveat, with the dna40 and super low resistance nickel wire 40w is more than enough. My typical build is .12 - .16 and I've never needed more than 25w to get a warm flavorful vape at 450 degrees.

Very true... i just don't always want to use NI200... esp because it's soft, has hot spot problems and works loose in lots of atomizers. I'd much prefer to use nickel builds in my tanks and kanthal at .5 to .2 in my drippers at full wattage/voltage.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but it's my understanding that you set the wattage on your DNA40 in the same way you'd set your "ramp"... (how quick you get to temp) you set your temp protection as your setpoint... you're in a way setting a PID controller, no? So regardless of wattage, you'll get to temp fairly quick on a DNA 40... but you're likely to hit that temp limit before your wattage limit. I see people hit the (safe zone) of 450 with only the device only able to hit 15-20 watts before it cycles back down.

What i want more is an all around board. I really dont want to go chinese... but YiHi's 350 and others...those are damn good looking boards!

YiHi SX350 100W Chip - Eciggity


C'mon Evolv... i know you'll be able to compete.

 

[Heespharm]

Yeah they are firmly backing Evolv... which i think is super awesome! I just really don't get why they're not (who knows, they might be) going to release a high watt temp DNA board. They need to ASAP... and i need one in a new v3 Vapor Flask! lol




Very true... i just don't always want to use NI200... esp because it's soft, has hot spot problems and works loose in lots of atomizers. I'd much prefer to use nickel builds in my tanks and kanthal at .5 to .2 in my drippers at full wattage/voltage.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but it's my understanding that you set the wattage on your DNA40 in the same way you'd set your "ramp"... (how quick you get to temp) you set your temp protection as your setpoint... you're in a way setting a PID controller, no? So regardless of wattage, you'll get to temp fairly quick on a DNA 40... but you're likely to hit that temp limit before your wattage limit. I see people hit the (safe zone) of 450 with only the device only able to hit 15-20 watts before it cycles back down.

What i want more is an all around board. I really dont want to go chinese... but YiHi's 350 and others...those are damn good looking boards!

YiHi SX350 100W Chip - Eciggity


C'mon Evolv... i know you'll be able to compete.

It's not a wattage race... It's a safety concern... But beyond that I've never experienced any of qualities u experienced with ni200 except it being soft


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[snow blind]

It's not a wattage race... It's a safety concern... But beyond that I've never experienced any of qualities u experienced with ni200 except it being soft


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Oh, don't get me wrong i'm completely with you on the "wattage race"... personally id just like to have a little more for certain atomizers i enjoy at a more high wattage and temp (which we're now finding out isn't good... great lol)

I'm fully behind Evolv and their decision to focus on the "future of vaping" versus the meaningless wattage wars. Do any of you vape mechanicals or other higher watt boxes? Do any of you enjoy 50 watts or above on certain builds? If so how do you find the DNA 40 in the flask? Are you satisfied... can you see yourself wanting a little more power now or in the future?

Honestly curious as i keep sitting on my hands not ordering a flask waiting in hopes of a "new" model. (The bottom feeder is going to be pretty cool for all of you BF guys though!)