Vapor Flask

[TheKiwi]

Haha damnit. GOnna hafta send my flask back to VF to get a unit with a better charging port. Then wait to receive it. Then send it back to Evolv if the chip is doing what I'm experiencing right now.

My my. The gods are trolling me hard


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[julpin]

What are you experiencing with the chip? Did you get a faulty one?

 

[Budared]

And it's finally here!

Looks beautiful, build is perfect except for one small, deep scratch next to the 510, but that is covered by the atty anyway. batteries arrived in same post so won't be able to check the screen or chip for a couple of hours (charge faster!). And my NI200 hasn't arrived yet, so no TP for a day or so.

Will come back and post pics once it's set-up

 

[TheKiwi]

What are you experiencing with the chip? Did you get a faulty one?

Hmm. So here's my problem.

I have 6 atties running Ni, 8 running kanthal.

When switching between Any atties, I unscrew the previous one, press the fire button so that it says "check atomizer", then Pop the new one when its completely room temp.

I also made sure to swap between distinct resistances (eg 0.09 to 0.29 ohms)

I would say 6 or 7 out of 10 times I never get promoted with a new atty option.

The worst worst thing is, I thought well I'll stick to kanthal for a bit. BUT my chip seems to have huge difficulties trying to even sense the right resistance of the attie, and consequently keeps thinking my kanthal build is at 999F and won't fire. It does detect kanthal sometomes but rarely. These are builds ranging from 0.4 to 1.7 ohms too

So yeah. That's mainly my issue


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[Waterdog]

Thanks everyone!

So I took out my calipers. All 4 of my VTC 4s came out to 18.22 to 18.23 mm. Same goes for my LG HE2 and purple Efest. I've actually need able to get them to fit now (was scared of exerting force initially) so that part's ok.

I've swapped the positions of the battery caps and things are a little battery. I assume that the threads will smooth out given that it's aluminum hahaha.

For the buttons, seem like it's supposed to be that way? Not sure, but I guess I'll be okay with it. Was a little disappointed about the 2 scratches on it but to be honest it would've happened within 24 hrs anyway hahah.

And yeap! Been running it at tenperature mode only. Plan to do so for the next 1 week and hopefully nothing craps out!

But yeah. I do LOVE the flask as a device. Might have been a little underwhelmed due to some of these issues but yeah. I love the size (online pictures just don't do it justice), the wait and the feel of it. Vapes fine regardless of left or right handed


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They are stainless so tape off the area and hit it with sandpaper and then brush the finish with a scotch brite pad. Scratch gone.

 

[Waterdog]

So we have to pay to ship these things back?

 

[Heespharm]

Hmm. So here's my problem.

I have 6 atties running Ni, 8 running kanthal.

When switching between Any atties, I unscrew the previous one, press the fire button so that it says "check atomizer", then Pop the new one when its completely room temp.

I also made sure to swap between distinct resistances (eg 0.09 to 0.29 ohms)

I would say 6 or 7 out of 10 times I never get promoted with a new atty option.

The worst worst thing is, I thought well I'll stick to kanthal for a bit. BUT my chip seems to have huge difficulties trying to even sense the right resistance of the attie, and consequently keeps thinking my kanthal build is at 999F and won't fire. It does detect kanthal sometomes but rarely. These are builds ranging from 0.4 to 1.7 ohms too

So yeah. That's mainly my issue


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Did u turn off tp with kanthal?


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[Waterdog]

And it's finally here!

Looks beautiful, build is perfect except for one small, deep scratch next to the 510, but that is covered by the atty anyway. Batteries arrived in same post so won't be able to check the screen or chip for a couple of hours (charge faster!). And my NI200 hasn't arrived yet, so no TP for a day or so.

Will come back and post pics once it's set-up

Mine had a scratch there also. Will be interesting to see if it is in the same spot.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

Hmm. So here's my problem.

I have 6 atties running Ni, 8 running kanthal.

When switching between Any atties, I unscrew the previous one, press the fire button so that it says "check atomizer", then Pop the new one when its completely room temp.

I also made sure to swap between distinct resistances (eg 0.09 to 0.29 ohms)

I would say 6 or 7 out of 10 times I never get promoted with a new atty option.

The worst worst thing is, I thought well I'll stick to kanthal for a bit. BUT my chip seems to have huge difficulties trying to even sense the right resistance of the attie, and consequently keeps thinking my kanthal build is at 999F and won't fire. It does detect kanthal sometomes but rarely. These are builds ranging from 0.4 to 1.7 ohms too

So yeah. That's mainly my issue


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Not only do the attys need to be at room temp, but so should the flask. If you are vaping and the flask is warm, popping on a room temperature atty will not allow proper calibration, as it assumes that the atty and device are the same temp.

Not that you can't switch attys around, you may want to consider setting 1 up, calibrating for it, and getting to understand and know the temp control for a while with just one.

Some of the quirkiness you are seeing may be due to the atty swapping on a warm board, or you may have a problem with the flask and connection itself. Make sure your atty and device threads/contacts are clean etc.

 

[jaxgator]

Did u turn off tp with kanthal?

I didn't have to with mine. Installed an atty with a Kanthal build on it. Clicked the fire button and it was in TC mode. Fired and hit it. Looked again and it was in wattage mode.

 

[BlueSnake]

Did u turn off tp with kanthal?


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It is automatic.

 

[Heespharm]

It is automatic.

Not always


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[TheKiwi]

Lol what? I didn't even know there's an option to turn off TP. Afaik it's just autodetect


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[TheKiwi]

Not only do the attys need to be at room temp, but so should the flask. If you are vaping and the flask is warm, popping on a room temperature atty will not allow proper calibration, as it assumes that the atty and device are the same temp.

Not that you can't switch attys around, you may want to consider setting 1 up, calibrating for it, and getting to understand and know the temp control for a while with just one.

Some of the quirkiness you are seeing may be due to the atty swapping on a warm board, or you may have a problem with the flask and connection itself. Make sure your atty and device threads/contacts are clean etc.

AH! Welp see im very very lacking in knowledge about the dna40. I didn't know that the mod's temperature makes a difference too.

Wasn't expecting to have to limit my atty swapping but AH ok. I'll see how it goes!


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[julpin]

Like Heespharm said Kiwi, I know the chip detects Kanthal builds and swap to wattage mode but apparently you have to turn TC off.

 

[Heespharm]

Like Heespharm said Kiwi, I know the chip detects Kanthal builds and swap to wattage mode but apparently you have to turn TC off.

U don't have to only when it doesn't auto detect


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[BlueSnake]

Not always


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It is supposed to be auto detect. The off option is for when you want to use nickel wire without temp control per the included instructions.

 

[TheKiwi]

Ok I'm
Dumb. How do I turn TC off? Hahah

Edit: nvm got it! Thanks

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[Heespharm]

5click, hold up down, press up to change temp past 600 until says off


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[Bassnorma]

Did u turn off tp with kanthal?


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I have never had to turn off tc to run kanthal....it eventually discovers the lack of nickel....are you asking if he turned it off to pulse fire the nickel?

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)