Vapor Flask

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jpcwon

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Oh, don't get me wrong i'm completely with you on the "wattage race"... personally id just like to have a little more for certain atomizers i enjoy at a more high wattage and temp (which we're now finding out isn't good... great lol)

I'm fully behind Evolv and their decision to focus on the "future of vaping" versus the meaningless wattage wars. Do any of you vape mechanicals or other higher watt boxes? Do any of you enjoy 50 watts or above on certain builds? If so how do you find the dna 40 in the flask? Are you satisfied... can you see yourself wanting a little more power now or in the future?

Honestly curious as i keep sitting on my hands not ordering a flask waiting in hopes of a "new" model. (The bottom feeder is going to be pretty cool for all of you BF guys though!)

For me, the 40 watts on the Flask is more than adequate to fire most builds and get a nice warm satisfying vape. 90% of the time, I am using tanks (or drippers with ni200), and most of my tanks (when using kanthal) don't require wattage above ~20-25 watts.

Occasionally I will build an RDA down to around .3 or .4, and for those builds I use my 120w Raptor Box. But that is not typical of my vaping style. I haven't been using the Raptor Box all that often though. I am normally a flavor guy, and most builds that I do for flavor don't require high wattages.....
 

snow blind

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For me, the 40 watts on the Flask is more than adequate to fire most builds and get a nice warm satisfying vape. 90% of the time, I am using tanks (or drippers with ni200), and most of my tanks (when using kanthal) don't require wattage above ~20-25 watts.

Occasionally I will build an RDA down to around .3 or .4, and for those builds I use my 120w Raptor Box. But that is not typical of my vaping style. I haven't been using the Raptor Box all that often though. I am normally a flavor guy, and most builds that I do for flavor don't require high wattages.....

Sounds so very much like me. I want that OKL/Raptor box output option for 10% of my vaping... and the DNA temp control for 90% of my vaping. I'm just really curious about Evolv's next board. I have a feeling it's going to have the same temp protection but put out a decent amount more wattage... makes me want to keep on waiting for "that next revision" of the flask.
 

BNEAT

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I only have a couple of juices that I like to vape at what I call high power (60-70 watts) My ADV is around 20-30 watts with higher nic (6-9mg) I've tried my "cloud" juice on my flask, and, no, it wasn't really satisfying. But, I don't mind playing with my old Mech Mods for those occasions.

If all you do is chase clouds, then the DNA40 isn't for you
 

FictitiousFreedom

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In my experience with regulated power I think 50 to 60 watts is more than enough. If you factor in VD with mechs especially with lower builds you don't get too much more wattage than 50 to 80 watts and even if you do it drops super fast. Personally I use a dripper at .25 with 22g on a mech for about 10 percent of my vaping and my kayfun4 between .6 and 1.5 on my regulated, that is until my VF shows up today :)

I think 50 to maybe 60 watts would be cool on a dna board but anything over that kind of defeats the purpose. That's just 2 cents
 

ukeman

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Oh, don't get me wrong i'm completely with you on the "wattage race"... personally id just like to have a little more for certain atomizers i enjoy at a more high wattage and temp (which we're now finding out isn't good... great lol)

I'm fully behind Evolv and their decision to focus on the "future of vaping" versus the meaningless wattage wars. Do any of you vape mechanicals or other higher watt boxes? Do any of you enjoy 50 watts or above on certain builds? If so how do you find the DNA 40 in the flask? Are you satisfied... can you see yourself wanting a little more power now or in the future?

Honestly curious as i keep sitting on my hands not ordering a flask waiting in hopes of a "new" model. (The bottom feeder is going to be pretty cool for all of you BF guys though!)

not sure this addresses your focus, but I've found the DNA mods" strength (aside from TP) to be in the voltage ... some of the newer high watt mods may have higher voltage but most only go to 5 or 6 volts.
The DNA's go up to 8+volts, and unless you insist on thick wire, thinner wire and higher volts (which also means good coil surface, less watts and amp draw) is a fabulous vape by any standard.
With the 40 you get both high voltage and TP.
 

snow blind

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I only have a couple of juices that I like to vape at what I call high power (60-70 watts) My ADV is around 20-30 watts with higher nic (6-9mg) I've tried my "cloud" juice on my flask, and, no, it wasn't really satisfying. But, I don't mind playing with my old Mech Mods for those occasions.

If all you do is chase clouds, then the DNA40 isn't for you

I'm more a flavor guy... i could care less about clouds but some vapes (esp deserts, which i love!) really taste best above 50 watts, in my opinion. 40% of my vaping is done on various Kayfun set ups at around 0.7 - 1.3... 30% of my vaping is done in genisis atomizers anywhere from 0.5 - 1.0... the last 30% of my vaping is done solely on mechs with drippers at 0.5 - 0.2 mostly with desert or fruit vapes that taste better to me dense and very warm.

I dont care if the setups blow clouds... so far as flavor is on point. Sometimes "clouds" or the density of vapor can have a very prominent impact on flavor. The two def aren't mutually exclusive.

Gotta agree with Hees on this.

That's good to hear! I've only messed around on friends Hana's withe the NI200.. don't own a 40 board (yet lol). They are some very, very experienced builders and we've all noticed that the soft wire can and will snap in post holes SUPER easy... that coils can deform rather easily after a few tanks/normal use... and that contact coils can sometimes be tricky (esp without heating them up first and dry firing them).


In my experience with regulated power I think 50 to 60 watts is more than enough. If you factor in VD with mechs especially with lower builds you don't get too much more wattage than 50 to 80 watts and even if you do it drops super fast. Personally I use a dripper at .25 with 22g on a mech for about 10 percent of my vaping and my kayfun4 between .6 and 1.5 on my regulated, that is until my VF shows up today :)

I think 50 to maybe 60 watts would be cool on a dna board but anything over that kind of defeats the purpose. That's just 2 cents
I'd just really love the option. Let me run 35 watts with 450F TP on... then let me switch attys and run 65 watts without.
 

snow blind

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not sure this addresses your focus, but I've found the DNA mods" strength (aside from TP) to be in the voltage ... some of the newer high watt mods may have higher voltage but most only go to 5 or 6 volts.
The DNA's go up to 8+volts, and unless you insist on thick wire, thinner wire and higher volts (which also means good coil surface, less watts and amp draw) is a fabulous vape by any standard.
With the 40 you get both high voltage and TP.

THIS was the main reason i was still itching to pick up a flask DNA 40 in it's current form... greater surface area of coil to wick... and higher voltage. But then i keep thinking... watts = vapor quantity... and "sometimes" vapor quantity has a huge impact on flavor (also nicotine delivery).
 

FictitiousFreedom

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I'm more a flavor guy... i could care less about clouds but some vapes (esp deserts, which i love!) really taste best above 50 watts, in my opinion. 40% of my vaping is done on various Kayfun set ups at around 0.7 - 1.3... 30% of my vaping is done in genisis atomizers anywhere from 0.5 - 1.0... the last 30% of my vaping is done solely on mechs with drippers at 0.5 - 0.2 mostly with desert or fruit vapes that taste better to me dense and very warm.

I dont care if the setups blow clouds... so far as flavor is on point. Sometimes "clouds" or the density of vapor can have a very prominent impact on flavor. The two def aren't mutually exclusive.



That's good to hear! I've only messed around on friends Hana's withe the NI200.. don't own a 40 board (yet lol). They are some very, very experienced builders and we've all noticed that the soft wire can and will snap in post holes SUPER easy... that coils can deform rather easily after a few tanks/normal use... and that contact coils can sometimes be tricky (esp without heating them up first and dry firing them).


I'd just really love the option. Let me run 35 watts with 450F TP on... then let me switch attys and run 65 watts without.
I understand, I just personally only use mechs with my drippers. I do enjoy drippers between 50 and 60 watts on occasion with certain flavors but the only regulated mod I have is a single 26650 and anything under .6 or above 26g drains my battery in an hour or two and I only have two 26650s, so I just use my mechs, that might all change when I get my VF today though and I might find myself agreeing with you more. Lately I've just been using RTAs more and don't need that much power, I strictly used drippers at around .2 for two years and I got tired of it, now I'm on a flavor journey lol
 

snow blind

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I understand, I just personally only use mechs with my drippers. I do enjoy drippers between 50 and 60 watts on occasion with certain flavors but the only regulated mod I have is a single 26650 and anything under .6 or above 26g drains my battery in an hour or two and I only have two 26650s, so I just use my mechs, that might all change when I get my VF today though and I might find myself agreeing with you more. Lately I've just been using RTAs more and don't need that much power, I strictly used drippers at around .2 for two years and I got tired of it, now I'm on a flavor journey lol

I can totally get that. Like I said... I'm a flavor junkie also. Sometimes more wattage does equal better flavor. Interested more so in the NI200 temp builds. I feel I might be able to screw on my Marquis to a flask with a nickel build and get great flavor... That thing gives stellar flavor at any wattage.
 

Rikk

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All devices with the DNA40 chip have the issue... batt meter not concise. I guess the choice is to either run it down to "weak battery" signal or change out as soon as it starts dropping to less than half.

My one issue with the Flask is the batt channels are tight. The side opposite the button is the worst.
What bugs me is that most of the appropriate batts don't fit well if at all. Out of 4 different brands I have the Sony VTC's work best, but they are the hardest to get vs. ie the blue Samsungs. Even the purple Efest 35amp don't fit at all.
I received my VaporFlask yesterday and it's already my favorite device. Couldn't put it down all night.

I bought the 30amp Sony's at the same time, and as I was waiting for them to charge up I thought I would see if my Samsung INR18650-25R would possibly fit. I tried the battery tube directly above the screen, and my batteries have no labels whatsoever and it went it a few mm's and stopped, it wasn't going any further unless I applied a lot of pressure, and I wasn't about to do that with my new Flask. Then when I tried to pull it out I had to use some force to get it out. Wow it is tight, even my Sony was a very tight fit. The battery tube on the opposite side is not near as tight but it's still quite tight.

I wouldn't chance getting one in and never getting it back out. It's too bad to, because the Samsung are great batteries, and easy to get.
 

ukeman

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I can totally get that. Like I said... I'm a flavor junkie also. Sometimes more wattage does equal better flavor. Interested more so in the NI200 temp builds. I feel I might be able to screw on my Marquis to a flask with a nickel build and get great flavor... That thing gives stellar flavor at any wattage.

i was surprised to hear the success of the Veritas for flavor as I had one and couldn't like it much but now the Marquis; which RipT raves about the flavor (Marquis and Veritas)... but anyway in his review vid of the Marquis he uses a DNA40 with TP mode, and "chucks" vapor and flavor.
 

FictitiousFreedom

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I received my VF dna40 today. It is flawless. I was terrified after reading this thread. It has the newer dna chip with Celsius and my LG he2s, mxjos, and Sony's all fit perfect. I can't find anything wrong at all. My first nickel build is working beautifully on my kayfun v4. It's a 28g 12 wraps touching. I have it set at 400f and 20w, I still have a ton of experimenting to do but so far im impressed. The flavor and vapor production is better than kanthal. Vapor production is important to me because for 2 years I only used drippers @ around .2, flavor is more important but I have to have a certain amount of vapor production and so far this ni200 is producing the perfect amount. The only problem im haVing is it's not wicking as well as kanthal but its my first build. Overall this Device is hands down amazing!
 

snow blind

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I received my VF dna40 today. It is flawless. I was terrified after reading this thread. It has the newer dna chip with Celsius and my LG he2s, mxjos, and Sony's all fit perfect. I can't find anything wrong at all. My first nickel build is working beautifully on my kayfun v4. It's a 28g 12 wraps touching. I have it set at 400f and 20w, I still have a ton of experimenting to do but so far im impressed. The flavor and vapor production is better than kanthal. Vapor production is important to me because for 2 years I only used drippers @ around .2, flavor is more important but I have to have a certain amount of vapor production and so far this ni200 is producing the perfect amount. The only problem im haVing is it's not wicking as well as kanthal but its my first build. Overall this Device is hands down amazing!

Does it not wick as well... OR... do you think it's just more efficiently vaporizing juice?
 

snow blind

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Im not sure yet. It's probably vaporizing more efficiently. Im also chain vaping it like im getting paid to lol

That's what i was thinking. And not surprised... i'd likely be doing the same thing if i pulled the trigger. I'll just stalk this thread until there's more info on the next revision or DNA board ;)
 

BNEAT

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I bought the 30amp Sony's at the same time, and as I was waiting for them to charge up I thought I would see if my Samsung INR18650-25R would possibly fit. I tried the battery tube directly above the screen, and my batteries have no labels whatsoever and it went it a few mm's and stopped, it wasn't going any further unless I applied a lot of pressure, and I wasn't about to do that with my new Flask. Then when I tried to pull it out I had to use some force to get it out. Wow it is tight, even my Sony was a very tight fit. The battery tube on the opposite side is not near as tight but it's still quite tight.

I hate to here this. As little as we've heard of this lately, I assumed they increased the size of the holes.
 

BNEAT

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Im not sure yet. It's probably vaporizing more efficiently. Im also chain vaping it like im getting paid to lol

My authentic K4 is having a hard time keeping up at 30ish watts with high VG juice. I keep having to open the fill cap to get some bubbles moving. It does fine with thinner juices. I'm in the process of mod'n it to see if I can get it to flow better. (I pulled the wick out completely and it still wouldn't flood)
 

snow blind

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I hate to here this. As little as we've heard of this lately, I assumed they increased the size of the holes.

Same... the only other reason i'm waiting until they address it. (if they do... owner said they dont want us using efest or sammys etc.... milled specifically for the VTC line)
 
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