VaporShark rDNA
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I have been. But it's kinda weird because I would get a reading on my ohm meter, and get the same reading on my flask. But after using for a while the resistance changes. Shrug
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It definitely does. It's the only way that the dna40 is able to determine the temperature.
In fact, you can simply try the following: put in a 0.1 ohm build. Then swap out to a 0.4 ohm nickel build, but indicate No when it asks if it's a new coil. If you try firing it, you'll see that the temperature shown is very high and TP kicks in almost immediately.
When people say "ohms" no matter, it's more of a user experience perspective: the ohm limit is so low that you no longer have to worry so much about getting some kinda error, yet able to get a wide range of wattage settings and temp protection.
But resistance most certainly do matter operationally
ETA: I was referring to it mattering in this context whereby there's a possibility that the chip is reading the wrong resistance, resulting in either higher than expected temperature, or the TP kicking in prematurely
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Just little FYI which I have seen mentioned before but since it actually happened to ME yesterday please humor me. Applies to either a VS30 or VS40 since the doors are the same and the magnet in the 40 simply replaces the washer and screw.
I was testing a Squape R clone yesterday in my fav shop with my rock solid never a single glitch VS30 + skin. SR Sprung a leak or two and I cleaned the base AND I rolled down the skin about 1.5 inches and saw no juice and or condensation.
Guess what! The juice had dribbled all the way down below my quick look at the skin. The skin actually holds the dribbled juice in place. Removed the entire skin, held my breath and sure enough juice had begun to seep into the battery compartment. On the edges of the door and I could see it clearly since I was removing the bat door to swap vct5. Fortunately everything is fine.
PLEASE PLEASE be careful.
I was testing a Squape R clone yesterday in my fav shop with my rock solid never a single glitch VS30 + skin. SR Sprung a leak or two and I cleaned the base AND I rolled down the skin about 1.5 inches and saw no juice and or condensation.
Guess what! The juice had dribbled all the way down below my quick look at the skin. The skin actually holds the dribbled juice in place. Removed the entire skin, held my breath and sure enough juice had begun to seep into the battery compartment. On the edges of the door and I could see it clearly since I was removing the bat door to swap vct5. Fortunately everything is fine.
PLEASE PLEASE be careful.
Just got my rDNA40. I had all kind of problems with my Russian 91 on it but my KFL+ v2 works swimmingly. So weird.
This is one device that you absolutely should not use leaky toppers with. You will fry it
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With Ni200 wire? I'm having issues with my Russian temperature right now and I can't figure out the problem. It'll glow the coils at the lowest temperature setting which shouldn't happen.
Just got my Vaporshark rdna 40 two days ago. Had to wait a bit, but extremely satisfied with the purchase.
Maybe it's just my device, but the vaporshark DNA 40 has give me the best, consistent vape I've ever had. For comparison I've only used a Cana mod with a magma clone on it before this.
I really think the temperature protection makes a huge difference, and the device has a high quality / well built feel to it. That was just my experience though.
Maybe it's just my device, but the vaporshark DNA 40 has give me the best, consistent vape I've ever had. For comparison I've only used a Cana mod with a magma clone on it before this.
I really think the temperature protection makes a huge difference, and the device has a high quality / well built feel to it. That was just my experience though.
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Yep, with Ni200 wire. Something's wrong with the russian.
In the news, anyone using wireless charging? My Shark gets uncomfortably warm using it.
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yes mine gets warm with the wireless charger also...but i think its normal....don't know what the big deal is though for wireless charging?? takes just as long and you still have to plug it in with usb...
It's more like if you're doing work at your desk, you can always vape and plop it down to charge and keep it constantly topped up. No need to mess around with the USB cables
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Glad to know I'm not the only one having problems with the Russian and Ni200 wire. I'm going to clean the posts and everything tonight and rebuild a coil and see if it helps
Mine gets very, very warm when wireless charging. However, it was my understanding before ordering that heat is the price one pays for wireless charging so I wasn't surprised.
USB connectors all seem to be dainty things easily prone to failure so I'm not a fan. I also don't like being tethered to a wire while vaping so I'm very happy with the wireless option.
However, I think it is very stupid that you have to lay down the rDNA40 to charge it. I cobbled together a temporary easel for mine from some scrap foamcore until I can come up with something permanent that looks OK and won't be a safety issue with heat.
Out of curiosity, is the rDNA40 now big enough where the Taifun (23mm atomizer) will sit flush on the device?
Heat is one of the by-products of wireless charging but it shouldn't get so warm that it's uncomfortable to hold.
I have a Tylt Vu for my phone and tablet so having wireless charging on my vaping device would be awesome.
It will sit flush on the long sides but will stick out a tad on the button side. They only made it thicker for the integrated wireless charger.
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