VaporShark rDNA

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Fir3b1rd

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Cool, yeah I have no doubt that VS (and Evolv) will be there for me....I was amazed at how helpful and responsive VS was when I had an issue with my rDNA 30. Fixed it under warranty no questions asked (and I bought it on ebay)....It's the primary reason I want to give them more of my business! Their cust service (IMO anyway) is excellent.
Yeah it is!!!
 

Kintrol

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xcrazydx

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So knowing what you know, the sixty-four thousand dollar question: Would you order one for yourself, or would you advise a friend or significant other to order one?

Nope. Maybe in the future when/if vaporshark gets their act together. I'd wait for the chips to be fixed anyways before I ordered any mod with the DNA40 in it.

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ceejay

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KTMRider

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Are you serious? Im still waiting on a pre order from mid-October. Thats crazy!

Lol you might wanna drop them an email to check. That doesn't sound right


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Seriously. I ordered last week Tues. It's supposed to be delivered today but of course USPS sucks and it's still somewhere between my hub and my PO. Still.
 

TheKiwi

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Gloomy day in North Carolina with my trusty lil guy

5577469b691e1f8909950d720338b0f8.jpg



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TheKiwi

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How long does a battery take to charge via the USB? I want to get a sharkskin, but I like to be able to just pop the door and put in a fresh one, not so easy with the skin.

Welp. It's a 1A receiver. If you use a 1A charging base.... Round about 2 hours? That's after factoring energy loss/inefficiency as well as the fact that you will never be able to fully drain the battery


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TheKiwi

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The rDNA has a 800mah USB internal charger. To charge the stock LG HE2, about 3 hrs and change from the USB. (2500mah/800mah). A bit more with wireless charging as there's some overhead. Maybe 3.5-4 hrs?

Whoops! For some reason I thought the rDNA has a 1A Usb charger.

That said I doubt you'll be factoring all 2500mah since you'll never actually fully drain the battery


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buffalofloyd

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First off I am extremely impressed with the quality, size, and vape from this device... when it works that is. I received my unit yesterday and everything was working perfectly with temp protection. I was running fine with a .13-.16 ohm coil at 450 and 24w. It was reading that yesterday. Today it's reading .11 and temp protection is not kicking in and my wattage is not going below 24w, which is what I have set at. When I fire the device the wattage shoots above 24w like it's supposed to but won't drop below 24w as the temp goes down and the highest the temp gets is like 350.Are my ohms too low now or is something defective? Was running fine yesterday!

Hmm... I just noticed if I lower the temp to 250 then the temp protection kicks in and my wattage fluctuates like it should. I suspect my ohms are too low, yes, no? It's just strange because yesterday it was reading the ohms higher and now it's reading them a bit lower.
 

Fir3b1rd

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First off I am extremely impressed with the quality, size, and vape from this device... when it works that is. I received my unit yesterday and everything was working perfectly with temp protection. I was running fine with a .13-.16 ohm coil at 450 and 24w. It was reading that yesterday. Today it's reading .11 and temp protection is not kicking in and my wattage is not going below 24w, which is what I have set at. When I fire the device the wattage shoots above 24w like it's supposed to but won't drop below 24w as the temp goes down and the highest the temp gets is like 350.Are my ohms too low now or is something defective? Was running fine yesterday!

Hmm... I just noticed if I lower the temp to 250 then the temp protection kicks in and my wattage fluctuates like it should. I suspect my ohms are too low, yes, no? It's just strange because yesterday it was reading the ohms higher and now it's reading them a bit lower.
Ive noticed a certain degree of that with my erlkonogin at first. It seems to have been the actual nickel itself. Ive since done a better job tempering the metal/coil and making sure its firmly in place.
Nichrome or kanthal are both much sturdier; vut nickel is so soft that ive changed the way i build.
With resistance wire i stick with a 2-2.5 mm coil with nickel i build at 3-3.25mm and use 8-9wraps. Then i torch the stuff like its a burning BP oil well and keep it good and condenses in tweezers until it cools. Then set in place and wick. Its still softer than kanthal but a little more forgiving.
Also some issues that could be causing your issue is that for TC to work the mod and atty need to be at room temp to start otherwise itll be off. This was causing some peoplr issues at first also. Keep in mind the dna40 is giving realtime readouts on what its doing and as the metal heats the Rt will fluctuate and so will V and W output to keep consistent performance. and it swason have a standard power boost also.
Once i got a hold of those little "quirks" its been smooth sailing and easily the BEST VAPE ive ever had consistently out of any device hands down. The trickiest parts were the small learning curve with nickel and truthfully answering the devices "new coil" question letting it calibrate properly After a day or two seamless function.
 
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buffalofloyd

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Ive noticed a certain degree of that with my erlkonogin at first. It seems to have been the actual nickel itself. Ive since done a better job tempering the metal/coil and making sure its firmly in place.
Nichrome or kanthal are both much sturdier; vut nickel is so soft that ive changed the way i build.
With resistance wire i stick with a 2-2.5 mm coil with nickel i build at 3-3.25mm and use 8-9wraps. Then i torch the stuff like its a burning BP oil well and keep it good and condenses in tweezers until it cools. Then set in place and wick. Its still softer than kanthal but a little more forgiving.
Also some issues that could be causing your issue is that for TC to work the mod and atty need to be at room temp to start otherwise itll be off. This was causing some peoplr issues at first also. Keep in mind the dna40 is giving realtime readouts on what its doing and as the metal heats the Rt will fluctuate and so will V and W output to keep consistent performance. and it swason have a standard power boost also.
Once i got a hold of those little "quirks" its been smooth sailing and easily the BEST VAPE ive ever had consistently out of any device hands down. The trickiest parts were the small learning curve with nickel and truthfully answering the devices "new coil" question letting it calibrate properly After a day or two seamless function.

Well thanks for that response! Just so I'm sure, are you saying you are building a larger coil with the ni200? I suppose this is to keep the ohms a little higher? I must admit I haven't had the time to look into all the specs of the device but will the TP not work properly below a certain ohmage?

The coil I'm using now on my ohm reader read .20 and when measured on the VS it came out to about .16. I made two identical Kayfun builds at these ohms. It vaped like a dream at those ohms and the TP was working as it should but today the ohms dropped to .11 and obviously now it's not working properly.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Well thanks for that response! Just so I'm sure, are you saying you are building a larger coil with the ni200? I suppose this is to keep the ohms a little higher? I must admit I haven't had the time to look into all the specs of the device but will the TP not work properly below a certain ohmage?

The coil I'm using now on my ohm reader read .20 and when measured on the VS it came out to about .16. I made two identical Kayfun builds at these ohms. It vaped like a dream at those ohms and the TP was working as it should but today the ohms dropped to .11 and obviously now it's not working properly.
Yeah its said work best within certain parameters... and to be honest im unsure what those are. Perhaps someone will know for sure.
Granted i havent run mine with enough builds to be a master at it. However; from what ive observed so far a dual coil build seems to run best between 0.10-0.15 and a single seems to run best between 0.10-0.20. Again thats purely observational i have zero scientific data to support that statement. With so many variables in play, I'm hesitant to even say anything.
it could be working properly, ill bet the Rt is fluctuating when its being fired as it should.
 
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KTMRider

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If anyone's interested in the DNA 30 (the tiny one with 1300mah internal battery), Steam monkey has it on sale for $100 now. Code: SNOO for an additional 5% off.

Black:
Vaporshark DNA 30

Gunmetal:
Vaporshark DNA 30

With shipping, it's a few bucks more than the cyber monday deal from VaporShark but you get it a week earlier.
 
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