VaporShark rDNA

[zipflint]

Okay....so. First nickel build is on a Lemo Drop. And....well I'm sorta shocked at how painless it was. I followed everyone's suggestions and did a spaced coil. Of course, when I threaded it with rayon, the coil totally deformed and I spent a few minutes poking about with a tiny flat head screwdriver. Looked good to me. Juiced it up, gave it a test fire with temp set to 500F at (I think) 20 watts and hit the temp limit almost immediately. Backed off the wattage but still hit it immediately. The wick wasn't burning though. It was just throttling back really soon after hitting the fire button.

Then I remembered a few more things (the order in which they came to me is muddled) such as the fact that hitting the temp limit isn't necessarily a BAD thing. And I remembered to give the wick some more juice this time too. And things clicked. So now I'm happily vaping this sloppy-lookin' nickel coil at 420F and 29.8 watts. And it's....well it's perfect. Nice warm vape, plenty of airflow from the Lemo Drop, excellent flavor, no dry hits and no flooding. I should add that I anticipated some trouble from the Lemo but it was super easy to build on.

Anyway, obligatory photos!
This is just a regular ol' kanthal build.
VaporShark rDNA40 0001 by zipflint, on Flickr

And here's my ....-ugly nickel coil. VaporShark is telling me that it's .22Ohms. Could that be right? I'm using 28g nickel. Do I need to get the VS to re-read the Ohms?
VaporShark rDNA40 0004 by zipflint, on Flickr

VaporShark rDNA40 0005 by zipflint, on Flickr

 

[UKPaul]

Nice looking build!! How does it vape?


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It vapes terribly,

Not sure what I have done wrong but it is rock solid stable at 0.14 ohms which I assume is ok but holding the fire button without vaping it struggles to get up to 200 deg ???

Although the atti and top of the mod are really hot.

Something not rite so back to single coils I guess.

 

[UKPaul]

Okay....so. First nickel build is on a Lemo Drop. And....well I'm sorta shocked at how painless it was. I followed everyone's suggestions and did a spaced coil. Of course, when I threaded it with rayon, the coil totally deformed and I spent a few minutes poking about with a tiny flat head screwdriver. Looked good to me. Juiced it up, gave it a test fire with temp set to 500F at (I think) 20 watts and hit the temp limit almost immediately. Backed off the wattage but still hit it immediately. The wick wasn't burning though. It was just throttling back really soon after hitting the fire button.

Then I remembered a few more things (the order in which they came to me is muddled) such as the fact that hitting the temp limit isn't necessarily a BAD thing. And I remembered to give the wick some more juice this time too. And things clicked. So now I'm happily vaping this sloppy-lookin' nickel coil at 420F and 29.8 watts. And it's....well it's perfect. Nice warm vape, plenty of airflow from the Lemo Drop, excellent flavor, no dry hits and no flooding. I should add that I anticipated some trouble from the Lemo but it was super easy to build on.

Anyway, obligatory photos!
This is just a regular ol' kanthal build.
VaporShark rDNA40 0001 by zipflint, on Flickr

And here's my ....-ugly nickel coil. VaporShark is telling me that it's .22Ohms. Could that be right? I'm using 28g nickel. Do I need to get the VS to re-read the Ohms?
VaporShark rDNA40 0004 by zipflint, on Flickr

VaporShark rDNA40 0005 by zipflint, on Flickr

Nice pics zipflint.

I have been practising with nickel in my Marquis for a day but may try it in my kayfun tomorrow.

Tempted to track a Lemo down as well.

 

[zipflint]

I appear to have spoken/posted prematurely.
Now I'm getting the "Check Atomizer" message.
Time to tear it down and see what's doin', I guess....
Rats!

 

[caged]

How ridiculous would a 24.5mm diameter RDTA look on the rDNA 40?

 

[UKPaul]

How ridiculous would a 24.5mm diameter RDTA look on the rDNA 40?

Might look ok if it was 70mm high.

 

[caged]

Might look ok if it was 70mm high.

Hmmm.....I really want that atty though. Perhaps an extra thick shark skin would make it work....

 

[zipflint]

Maybe I should have clarified.
By "tear IT down" I meant the atty.
Not the VS.

I appear to have spoken/posted prematurely.
Now I'm getting the "Check Atomizer" message.
Time to tear it down and see what's doin', I guess....
Rats!

 

[ScandaLeX]

How ridiculous would a 24.5mm diameter RDTA look on the rDNA 40?

Which one are you referring to? Link?

 

[piggypinggy]

sorry guys I'm new and trying to get a rDNA 40 mod. I watched few reviews on youtube and have one question, do I have to use nickle wire to use any DNA 40 mods? because I'm using Aerotank Mega, can I use it on rDNA 40W?

 

[TheKiwi]

sorry guys I'm new and trying to get a rDNA 40 mod. I watched few reviews on youtube and have one question, do I have to use nickle wire to use any DNA 40 mods? because I'm using Aerotank Mega, can I use it on rDNA 40W?

You can use the rDNA 40 with ANY builds: kanthal, Ni200, Nichrome, titanium etc etc.

But you'll need to use specifically Ni200 to take advantage of the temperature protection feature. Titanium works too.


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[zipflint]

You only need to use nickel wire if you intend to make use of the temperature limiting function of the DNA40. It will function just fine with regular kanthal.

sorry guys I'm new and trying to get a rDNA 40 mod. I watched few reviews on youtube and have one question, do I have to use nickle wire to use any DNA 40 mods? because I'm using Aerotank Mega, can I use it on rDNA 40W?

 

[caged]

I still hate the battery meter, but I am really impressed with the battery performance. The quality of the vape doesn't start to really suffer until your battery drops down to 3.3 volts (at which point, for me anyway, weak battery starts flashing on screen). Yes, there's a difference between a fully charged battery, but the difference is minimal at 37 watts (the vape is definitely still strong). That's a world of difference from the Chinese mods that start suffering around 3.7 volts and makes vaping around 40 watts on a single 18650 battery much more practical and enjoyable. I was constantly swapping batteries when vaping at 37 watts when using single 18650 Chinese mods in the past. Between the battery performance and the built in charger, a single 18650 in the VS rDNA 40 isn't so bad.

 

[Brettanomyces]

I appear to have spoken/posted prematurely.
Now I'm getting the "Check Atomizer" message.
Time to tear it down and see what's doin', I guess....
Rats!

I had that happen last night with my Magma before I swapped out the kanthal build for nickel, it ended up being a post screw that had loosened somehow. I'm not sure how it happened either because I had been using that coil for a couple weeks without issue and all I did before it stopped working was pull the drip tip and drip some juice in.

 

[piggypinggy]

thanks guys, it really helps me a lot

 

[oDANo]

sorry guys I'm new and trying to get a rDNA 40 mod. I watched few reviews on youtube and have one question, do I have to use nickle wire to use any DNA 40 mods? because I'm using Aerotank Mega, can I use it on rDNA 40W?

You don't NEED nickel for the DNA40, the temp control is there for nickel wire, so "no more dry hits".

 

[zipflint]

Yeah I think something like that had happened, 'cept it was my first nickel build. Not surprising, I mean, those photos show how horrid that coil was. I tried again, this time aiming for a contact coil, hoping it would hold its shape better. No such luck. The center of the coil held together, but the legs went all wibbly-wobbly. So I tried to just space out the rest of the coils.

It's working now, and the resistance makes more sense; it's reading 0.1Ohm. It still wound up being a mess of a coil, but it's wicking fine and lighting up from the center. I guess the temp limiting is saving me from dry hits. The vape is still a bit on the dry side though. Not scorching, but not "right" either. So I'll build again. No biggie, I anticipated a learning curve.

I had that happen last night with my Magma before I swapped out the kanthal build for nickel, it ended up being a post screw that had loosened somehow. I'm not sure how it happened either because I had been using that coil for a couple weeks without issue and all I did before it stopped working was pull the drip tip and drip some juice in.

 

[ScandaLeX]

You can use the rDNA 40 with ANY builds: kanthal, Ni200, Nichrome, titanium etc etc.

But you'll need to use specifically Ni200 to take advantage of the temperature protection feature. Titanium works too.


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Have you done a Ti build yet?

 

[TheKiwi]

Have you done a Ti build yet?

Nope. This bird has been too cheap to pay for it hehehe


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[Juggernaut666]

So, I've had my vaporshark 40 for a couple weeks now, it's been a love hate relationship. Does it work? Oh yeah! Wireless charging? yep. How well does it work? Meh... either with an RTA, or prebuilt like the Nauti, it'll fire just fine for a while, then stop and ask if it's a new coil, without ever taking the atty off. Also will switch to temp control with a kanthal build or Nauti, and for some reason burns the wick for no reason at all.... anyone else have these issues? Am I doing something wrong? Or do I need to contact VS about this issue???

sent using a sonic screwdriver