I ordered one at 6:19PM EST. There was only a single red one left. Good to know that as returns come in they turn them back around.
I'll likely not mess with my rDNA now. I'll use this Hana clone box as my DNA40 experiment.
VaporShark rDNA
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I ordered one at 6:19PM EST. There was only a single red one left. Good to know that as returns come in they turn them back around.
I'll likely not mess with my rDNA now. I'll use this Hana clone box as my DNA40 experiment.
I'm having trouble getting the hang of this device. I have two kayfun's and last night I built two identical 28awg ni200 coils, 13 wraps which ohm'd out at around .16 according to the DNA40 when first built. I'm running my device at 450 degrees and 25 watts. Temperature protection works just fine and kicks in when it's supposed to. When I switch to my other Kayfun it sometimes asks if it's a new coil and I select yes, and it again, it works fine, for a time. It seems as the night and day goes on the ohms keep reading lower and lower as I switch toppers. I switched over to my other Kayfun, the device asks if it's a new coil, I select yes, now the ohm's are reading .10. If I fire the device it stays at a steady 25 watts and the temperature doesn't even come up to 400 degrees and the watts never go lower than the 25 watts I have it set at and temperature protection doesn't kick in. So I switch over to my other Kayfun and now it's reading .09 and the same thing happens. Temp Protection doesn't work like it's supposed to and the watts remain the same but the temp never reaches what I have it set at.
I am thinking if I never switched my toppers I wouldn't have a problem but I like to switch flavors often. Am I just not using this device properly or is something wrong? I can still vape it but it's obviously not as intense because the temp is not reaching what I have it set at. I am thoroughly confused. Why the ohm's keep reading lower and lower I can't understand. I let the devices cool before I attach them to see if it makes a difference but it doesn't seem to help. I love the device when it works as I think it's supposed to but I can see that maybe this is gonna be more frustrating than it's worth. Any thoughts?
I am thinking if I never switched my toppers I wouldn't have a problem but I like to switch flavors often. Am I just not using this device properly or is something wrong? I can still vape it but it's obviously not as intense because the temp is not reaching what I have it set at. I am thoroughly confused. Why the ohm's keep reading lower and lower I can't understand. I let the devices cool before I attach them to see if it makes a difference but it doesn't seem to help. I love the device when it works as I think it's supposed to but I can see that maybe this is gonna be more frustrating than it's worth. Any thoughts?
Glad to know I'm not alone but I think this type of technology might be too new and I jumped to soon, or I am not understanding how to use the device properly, or both. If switching toppers makes this device not operate as intended I don't see much use in it to be honest.
I have noticed that if I have it set at 450 and it's only reaching like 380 or so, if I lower them temp threshold to 350 the temperature protection will then kick in fine, as I would expect, but that's not what I want obviously. Everything works perfect with new coils but as I use each topper the ohm's get lower and then the DNA40 doesn't work as I want it to or like it's supposed to, I don't know which.
I know it would be a huge hassle and too much too much to do but it would be nice if Evolve had a thread where they could answer questions about their product. I applaud them for the innovation which is why I invested in it but I'm just not getting the results I had hoped for.
Is there nobody else having this happen to them?
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The DNA40 data sheet only mentions that the atty needs to be at room temp to get an accurate reading. However, Brandon commented at 24:25 in his Busardo interview that both the mod and the atty should be the same temperature. I'm wondering if the DNA 40 board being slightly warm might throw temp protection off?
It's happening to all of us buffalofloyd. Mine will vape great all day, holding its 1.3 reading, them I swap the battery and the resistance changes to 2.1, you would think it would have asked the new/same coil question, but nope. I imagine the problem is there is that the atty was still warm, but if it would have asked I would have told the board it was the same coil and to stay put. Most of our issues will likely get sorted in time and if I get too fed up I still have my kanthal, but I can keep it consistent 90% of the time, so I can live with that.....for now.
my reply from VaporShark 11/26: "We have received several faulty boards but we are testing every unit prior to shipping them out. Some can slip through the cracks as they done show the defect after hours of use but In the case that you receive a faulty board we will pay for the shipping back to us and send a new device out as soon as we receive the faulty one."
p.s. I'm ordering on Monday...
That makes sense. My plastic case had scotch tape on one side.
They've been mentioning quite a few times that they're testing every device before shipping out. It looked like mine was opened and tested, then they placed a piece of scotch tape to seal the case it came in before shipping out.
So if you are using kanthal, the VS rDNA 40 acts like the 30, ie you dont have have to worry about temp config. I have both a DNA30 and rDNA30. Now debating whether to get another DNA (love the form factor) or spring for the rDNA40.
Yes. For $20 more, it's a no brainer. And the cyber monday sale makes it even more attractive at $152 for the rDNA 40.
I did read the data sheet afterwards, I never thought about going to their site before I got the device to see about information on it. That's my bad I suppose. I just didn't think that's it would be as finicky as all that. When the summer comes back here to buffalo and it's 90 out, I can't see this device functioning properly in any way if it needs such strict parameters for it to work within, same goes for vaping outside in the freezing cold, like it is here now. There is a lot of things that need to be taken into account for this to work as it should, almost too many to make it user friendly and consistent in my opinion. I mean the device does what it says I suppose but under almost lab type conditions.
I have let my atty and device sit for a while, about 10-15 minutes while I write this and try to put it in a cohesive manner, and the temp protection seems to be working again and my ohm reading is down to a .09, but this is not ideal and not how everyone vapes. Don't get me wrong, I'm not getting a bad vape or burned vape off of the device, just inconsistent, and it's frustrating. Mech's I always new what I was getting and having a Provari or two I always knew as well. It more or less came down to your build. This has a lot more influences involved. Right away I was so excited but now I'm kinda meh about the whole thing. I think the Vapor Shark is awesome and I absolutely love the build quality and heft to the device. I love the removable door to easily switch out batteries. It's almost perfect I think.
Ah, the case they sealed was the box it came in, not the DNA 40's enclosure. Got it.
The indoor/outdoor phenom has been discussed a few times here. Some people reminded (over and again
) that a factor in rDNA 40 inconsistencies was insecure connections.Case in point: With two R91's, one working consistently and perfectly, the other not-so-much...variation in ohm reading...occasional burnt taste & etc.
Tired of this I decided to visit my B&M techie to take a look. Rain and snow, so I never made it to him; decided to research a fix myself. Voila!!!!!!! It is a connection problem. Best resolution was found, where? A search right here in this Forum.
Second R91 now vaping like the other. :fingers crossed:
I suspect that this issue with resistance changing and or the DNA falling in and out of Ni mode is not exactly a board issue, the resistance is actually changing. When I first started with the DNA 40 and UCT-Kebo Russians 91 I was seeing this. I tightened everything up on the Russians and consistence improved greatly. Still not 100% but close.
On the other hand my Magma is and always has been 100% rock solid. Resistance and performance is 100% perfect and never varies.
Wish I had more attys to play with all I have for RBA`s is Russians 91% a Magma and a new yet to be used Origen V2.
On the other hand my Magma is and always has been 100% rock solid. Resistance and performance is 100% perfect and never varies.
Wish I had more attys to play with all I have for RBA`s is Russians 91% a Magma and a new yet to be used Origen V2.
Yes, it is finicky as all hell, compounded by this soft a** nickel wire. I think these nickel coils warp (for lack of a better term) as they heat and cool, turning an initially good coil into an inconsistent one. I can't think of another reason it would vape fine for hours/days, then just.....not.
I can pretty much rule out it's not my builds being faulty or loose connections, I've been building Kayfun's for over a year now and I've pretty much got it down. My Kayfun's make connecting with the pin just fine, they sit nice and flush and pick up a reading before I even screw it down completely. I've rebuilt both my Kayfun's three different times now each and I get consistently inconsistent results with my DNA40 lol. I have a feeling what RandyF says about the coils changing shape or whatever because they are so soft after constant heating cooling, and reheating over and over again. This is having an impact on the ohm's lowering as both my Kayfun's have acted identically now with three different builds on them each.
Just a side note I will say that using microcoils have never been my thing although I can build them just fine. I find after I take apart my atty there is always black burned junk on my coils, almost like burned cotton sticking to the coils, even on this DNA40. I have noticed in the past that I would lead to a bad slightly burny taste after a short time using microcoils in Kayfun's on mech's, as opposed to using spaced coils. I've always kinda preferred spaced standard coils to microcoils. I may try twisted 28awg or 30awg spaced coils and see if I can get a better result and maybe a sturdier coil perhaps.
Just a side note I will say that using microcoils have never been my thing although I can build them just fine. I find after I take apart my atty there is always black burned junk on my coils, almost like burned cotton sticking to the coils, even on this DNA40. I have noticed in the past that I would lead to a bad slightly burny taste after a short time using microcoils in Kayfun's on mech's, as opposed to using spaced coils. I've always kinda preferred spaced standard coils to microcoils. I may try twisted 28awg or 30awg spaced coils and see if I can get a better result and maybe a sturdier coil perhaps.
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I spent a ton of time and almost an entire 100ft spool of Ni200 trying to find the perfect Ni200 Kayfun build to suite my tastes... settled in on a 28AWG 7 wrap spaced coil on a 1/8" mandrel, comes out to .11ohm. Wicked with Koh-Gen-Do cotton. I slightly work harden the wire with a "Z-Pull" method - 10 pulls, any more and it gets too brittle for me, any less and it's too soft/pliable. (See How to Work Harden Wire - YouTube for an example of how to do it.) I then wrap it as tightly as possible using a jig and a lot of tension - one end of the wire is clamped to something, just as in the video when I wrap the coil on the jig. It starts out as a perfect contact coil, and I then gently pull the coil apart from both sides evenly, then compress it back together with my thumbnails in order to get it sized properly.
I mount it perpendicular to the deck screws. Lift it up to about 2-3mm directly above the air hole.
I then set TP to 450F, turn the watts up to 25 or so, and dry fire it. If you have any hot turns they will glow instantly and TP will immediately stop that glow. Fix those with a micro-flathead. Dry fire again, make sure there are no glowing wraps. When you dry fire with TP on, there should be absolutely no glowing. Once this is confirmed, wick, fill, vape away.
I typically run this config around 14-18watts and TP set to taste (based on juice). This has worked very well for me (FINALLY!)
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