Yeah, I got their hours of operation for customer support from their website. I'll ring them tomorrow to see if they are there or not for the holiday, if not, I'll call them Tuesday.
VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I am pretty upset over this. Am I wrong? The guy listed the only flaws as a scratch on the battery door. Said it also came with a skin and he would throw in some nickel wire. No nickel wire (no biggie) but why wouldn't you post it didn't come with a battery since it does from VS? His response was that he didn't post that it did come with a battery. Although why would you put a skin on it to protect it only to take it off, remove the battery and then put it back on. I bought this for a friend who is getting into vaping. My VS came with a battery so I never even thought to check that until suggested here (actually I did but figured I had to take the skin off and why would I do that). I mean just seems like such an important component not to mention it is not included. I could have ordered one or gave my friend a heads up it wouldn't be ready. Instead I stay up learning to build coils and then another two hours trouble shooting and bothering you fine folks.
Sorry for the rant...
I would never think batteries are included in anything unless it said so... But if u bought it for full price and no battery I would be ......... Batteries are cheap anyway...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My second rDNA 40 purchased on cyber Monday arrived a few days ago.
Really digging the new finish, it`s like the EVOD finish mat and velvety, very sweet.
Z charge is the bomb.
The large screen, yeah ok whatever.
Unit works perfectly as did the first purchased on the pre order.
I`m well MODified for a long time, what luxury!
Really digging the new finish, it`s like the EVOD finish mat and velvety, very sweet.
Z charge is the bomb.
The large screen, yeah ok whatever.
Unit works perfectly as did the first purchased on the pre order.
I`m well MODified for a long time, what luxury!
Just got my rdna40 and the battery status is staying at 0% anyone have any idea ...?
UPDATE : put a freshly charged 18650 in and it works fine but it appears my vaporshark is not charging via the USB port after waiting nearly 2 months this really pisses me off
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
UPDATE : put a freshly charged 18650 in and it works fine but it appears my vaporshark is not charging via the USB port
after waiting nearly 2 months this really pisses me off Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Last edited:
Just got my rdna40 and the battery status is staying at 0% anyone have any idea ...?
UPDATE : put a freshly charged 18650 in and it works fine but it appears my vaporshark is not charging via the USB port
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Mine came with a dead battery as well. I plug it into USB charger for like 10-15 min. After that it would turn on and show empty battery. So I just left it on the charger for like 3 hours and ignored it. It was done charging by then. Works great.
Does yours accurately read the battery charge at all because I put a 70% charged battery in and it's showing 100%
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
The dna chip doesn't read the voltage and display it in a linear fashion.
There's a whole load of other aspects to it in the algorithm, such as the wattage you're vaping at, the current you're drawing, the health of the battery, it's ability to push your desired power etc
In short, don't read too much into it, or be too .... about the exact numbers.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Mine shows a full charge for a really long time. I believe this is by design.
I have a multimeter at home so I did some tests today. My battery meter doesn't even start moving until battery is around 3.7-3.6 volts. I believe in the cutoff is like 2.75 volts according to evolv for the dna40. I'm sure if I had a higher watt build it would move sooner. The board tries to gauge battery life on how you use it versus just showing a bar representing battery voltage. So lower watt users will see full battery bar longer than higher watt users.
These batteries are not linear. The batteries will spend tons of time around 3.8-3.6 volts. I would hate if it goes quick to half full, stay there all day, then drop off quick. I kinda like how they implemented it.
I didn't vape it long enough to find where the limp home mode kicks in. I put it on the charger because I needed it fully charged for later.
My second rDNA 40 purchased on cyber Monday arrived a few days ago.
Really digging the new finish, it`s like the EVOD finish mat and velvety, very sweet.
Z charge is the bomb.
The large screen, yeah ok whatever.
Unit works perfectly as did the first purchased on the pre order.
I`m well MODified for a long time, what luxury!
I got my second one with the cyber Monday sale as well and couldn't be happier! With two now in my possession, I think I'm set for a bit! Now on to the quest for the perfect topper continues.............
well I have had my VS RDNA 40 for almost a month now.
Its the version before the bigger screen update. works perfectly fine. TC seems to work and is kinda nice. though its now that I think about it kinda useless since I never use drippers(which benefit of not dry hitting) anyway.
the VS is heaaaavy. way heavier than my cana modz I used to have. That was the biggest surprise.
the only real negative I have is that the paint job on this thing is HORRIBLE. the paint feels soft to the touch and seems kinda...rubberyish?
but it chips and peels like its nothing.
this is my VS after less than a month.
This thing is always on my desk. if I take it out I put it in the inside of my jacket. which is soft as hell. nothing else in there so nothing is scratching it up.
this is pure from my hands.
I am sorry but It is REALLY sad that a 200 bucks US made box mod gets like that with normal usage while a 60 buck chinese clone has a better paint job that lasts 4 months without any paint coming off.
you probably say "BUT DARKLEH Y U NO GET SHARK SKIN????". I am sorry but I think the skins are utterly ugly. they are big silicone sleeves that just don't look good to me. Not the mention the issues of liquid getting in it and messing up stuff if you are not carefull. Plus I swap batteries and barely use zip charging so I would have to pull off the skin everytime and judging by the paintjob I don't think that it would last long.
Sure I could get like a vinyl sticker thing but then you get visible edges and all of that.
So I got 3 options.
do nothing and see my VS turn into bare metal.
get a ugly skin
get a vinyl with visible edges and ....
I COULD just get rid of all the paint and have somebody paint it for me in something durable but that would most likely void my warranty.
It's a shame really. I want to love the VS but this paint issue is just horrible. I got the VS instead of the hana because screws. VS instead of VF because I didn't know how the flask would feel + price.
but my next DNA mod definitely won't be a vapor shark anymore.
Its the version before the bigger screen update. works perfectly fine. TC seems to work and is kinda nice. though its now that I think about it kinda useless since I never use drippers(which benefit of not dry hitting) anyway.
the VS is heaaaavy. way heavier than my cana modz I used to have. That was the biggest surprise.
the only real negative I have is that the paint job on this thing is HORRIBLE. the paint feels soft to the touch and seems kinda...rubberyish?
but it chips and peels like its nothing.
this is my VS after less than a month.
This thing is always on my desk. if I take it out I put it in the inside of my jacket. which is soft as hell. nothing else in there so nothing is scratching it up.
this is pure from my hands.
I am sorry but It is REALLY sad that a 200 bucks US made box mod gets like that with normal usage while a 60 buck chinese clone has a better paint job that lasts 4 months without any paint coming off.
you probably say "BUT DARKLEH Y U NO GET SHARK SKIN????". I am sorry but I think the skins are utterly ugly. they are big silicone sleeves that just don't look good to me. Not the mention the issues of liquid getting in it and messing up stuff if you are not carefull. Plus I swap batteries and barely use zip charging so I would have to pull off the skin everytime and judging by the paintjob I don't think that it would last long.
Sure I could get like a vinyl sticker thing but then you get visible edges and all of that.
So I got 3 options.
do nothing and see my VS turn into bare metal.
get a ugly skin
get a vinyl with visible edges and ....
I COULD just get rid of all the paint and have somebody paint it for me in something durable but that would most likely void my warranty.
It's a shame really. I want to love the VS but this paint issue is just horrible. I got the VS instead of the hana because screws. VS instead of VF because I didn't know how the flask would feel + price.
but my next DNA mod definitely won't be a vapor shark anymore.
Well, it's a given the one you bought direct from VaporShark came with a battery. From the classies, the seller does not have to include a battery & unless his post said something different, he did nothing wrong - regardless of whether you were buying for a friend or not.
Ok left mine charging for about 2 hours now and it's bordering on hot/warm to the touch does this unit get pretty damn hot while charging????
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
Yeaaah. mine gets really hot too during zip charging. kinda makes me not want to use it. don't know how these batteries like being charged with 4 times the power that normal battery chargers use.
but then again. just checked and to be honest it seems like its the chip itself that gets really hot. the battery is "warm" but definitely not scorching hot. but damn that USB board most be cooking.
Yea, I feel for ya. If you don't like the skinz and you don't want a wrap, not sure you can do a whole lot about it. I will say the newest one seems to have a little different finish. Will it hold up Amy better?, don't know. I skin both of mine and find it very quick and simple to swap batteries. I can unwrap, swap batteries and re-wrap that rascal at a stop light!!
Mine gets warm too show using a 2a charger (to make full use of zip charging). Not worried about it, these batteries can take it. They can handle up to 4A charge. I think the zip charge is like 2A (that's what vaporshark recommends).
Is it normal for the temperature reading to go above what TP is set at? I'm still having troubles with burnt wicks and I noticed with TP set at 400f I'm hitting almost 430f with a wet wick in and 440f with a bare coil. The resistance reading is not fluctuating at all, vapor production is weak yet harsh(not surprising with the wick burning).
I keep going back to the fact that my rDNA showed signs of use right out of the box and that I might have inherited another persons problem device(as someone here pointed out).
I keep going back to the fact that my rDNA showed signs of use right out of the box and that I might have inherited another persons problem device(as someone here pointed out).
That can happen if your rDNA took a base reading that is lower than what it should actually be
I have no idea how it happened, but it did ytd on my erlk. Build was 0.19, but the base reading was taken to be 0.11. I hit TP very very fast and had a bad vape. Mathematically that makes sense too.
Just make sure all connections are snug, and counter check your atty resistance on an ohm meter AND the base resistance on the rDNA
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
It came out at .12 on my ohms meter and read .12 when I first put it on and settled to .11 after firing and stayed there which seems like normal behavior. Thanks for the input.
- Status
