Very disappointed with sub ohm vaping!

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edyle

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Doesn't Wire size play a Role in all this?

When I do a "What If" for .8 Ohms using a Single Coil of Kanthal A1 26ga, I get a Heat Flux @ 15W of 166 mW/mm by this calculator.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

But when I do the same .8 Ohms /15W using 28ga, I get 333 mW/mm

I know that Heat Flux is just a "Guideline" value. But Shouldn't a Person see a Hotter vape on the 28ga for these Two Builds at the Same Ohms/Watts?

1: Yes wire size plays a role

2: Heat flux is not just a 'guideline value' ; if you look at the colored flame thing next to heat flux, you might notice that for low values, it is blue, for high values it is more red; around 200, it is green.

3: Yes you see a hotter vape on the 28 gauge than the 26 gauge; 333 mW/mm2 is hotter than 166 mW/mm2
 

quovadis

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I think I have to build some higher resistance coils as some of you suggested. The materials are on the way. I have only tried 0.5 and 1.2 ohm pre-made atomizers up til now. I think that a 26 gauge, 6 turns or more, with even spacing (for vg liquid) should be good. I use VG 100% with some Capella flavors
I was used to vaping 22mg nicotine, but this is too ferocious for these sub ohm systems, and certainly gets the old heart racing faster.
What I simply do not understand is people showing these you tube videos with 25 watts and 0.5 ohm being a sweet spot on the Kanger pre-made coils, when it's like a furnace for me.
As for someone mentioning that there are different ways to "lung inhale" this is quite confusing. I understand there is a potential of speed/rate and quantity of inhale difference. I do not see how there's another "way" to lung inhale? Am i missing out on something?
 

zoiDman

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1: Yes wire size plays a role

2: Heat flux is not just a 'guideline value' ; if you look at the colored flame thing next to heat flux, you might notice that for low values, it is blue, for high values it is more red; around 200, it is green.

3: Yes you see a hotter vape on the 28 gauge than the 26 gauge; 333 mW/mm2 is hotter than 166 mW/mm2

Yeah... The Reason I used the word "Guideline" when referring to the calculated Heat Flux is because Actual Temperature at the Coil depends on more Variables that just Wire Type/Geometry.

Heat Exchange via Wicking comes to mind.

But the Reason I mentioned Heat Flux is that I Don't build Much. I'm kinda Stuck in my Happy Rut. But when I see an Order of Magnitude difference between these 2 Gauges of Kanthal for the Heat Flux, I scratch my head and Wonder if a person like the OP would be Happier with trying a different gauge of Wire?
 

Vapenstein

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it's a big change but I think if you go through it you'll be a happier vaper
new equipment kind of sucks for old school vaping IMO

I never, ever saw myself doing direct lung inhales. I'd been vaping mtl for over four years. I adjusted and now there is no way I'd go back. Vaping is much more satisfying for me than it's ever been.

Vape the way you want to vape and who cares how anyone else does it, but at least give the right setup a chance before you write off running higher watts on a subohm setup. It didn't click for me until I got a Subtank Mini and a Troll. The other tanks and attys I tried were not doing it for me at all, but those two clicked right away and I got it.
 

KGB7

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I think I have to build some higher resistance coils as some of you suggested. The materials are on the way. I have only tried 0.5 and 1.2 ohm pre-made atomizers up til now. I think that a 26 gauge, 6 turns or more, with even spacing (for vg liquid) should be good. I use VG 100% with some Capella flavors
I was used to vaping 22mg nicotine, but this is too ferocious for these sub ohm systems, and certainly gets the old heart racing faster.
What I simply do not understand is people showing these you tube videos with 25 watts and 0.5 ohm being a sweet spot on the Kanger pre-made coils, when it's like a furnace for me.
As for someone mentioning that there are different ways to "lung inhale" this is quite confusing. I understand there is a potential of speed/rate and quantity of inhale difference. I do not see how there's another "way" to lung inhale? Am i missing out on something?


There is your problem, should have told us from the get-go.

You should be using 3mg nic.
 

e-pipeman

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Yeah... The Reason I used the word "Guideline" when referring to the calculated Heat Flux is because Actual Temperature at the Coil depends on more Variables that just Wire Type/Geometry.

Heat Exchange via Wicking comes to mind.

But the Reason I mentioned Heat Flux is that I Don't build Much. I'm kinda Stuck in my Happy Rut. But when I see an Order of Magnitude difference between these 2 Gauges of Kanthal for the Heat Flux, I scratch my head and Wonder if a person like the OP would be Happier with trying a different gauge of Wire?

Your happy rut is with e e cummings. And why not? ygUDuh! :)
 

zoiDman

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I think I have to build some higher resistance coils as some of you suggested. The materials are on the way. I have only tried 0.5 and 1.2 ohm pre-made atomizers up til now. I think that a 26 gauge, 6 turns or more, with even spacing (for vg liquid) should be good. I use VG 100% with some Capella flavors
I was used to vaping 22mg nicotine, but this is too ferocious for these sub ohm systems, and certainly gets the old heart racing faster.
What I simply do not understand is people showing these you tube videos with 25 watts and 0.5 ohm being a sweet spot on the Kanger pre-made coils, when it's like a furnace for me.
As for someone mentioning that there are different ways to "lung inhale" this is quite confusing. I understand there is a potential of speed/rate and quantity of inhale difference. I do not see how there's another "way" to lung inhale? Am i missing out on something?

I think this is a Good Call.

Kanthal is Cheap. And it is easy to pickup a Range of gauges to see what type of Builds you like Best. And having some Lower mg e-Liquids is not a bad call Either.

If I Sub-Ohm-ed 22mg, I would get a Pounding Headache.

For Me when I use an RBA, I like Restricted Air Flow with a Slow Lung Hit on Lower mg. Else it is just Too Harsh.
 

BlueSnake

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I vape like you want to vape. Sub ohm isn't my thing either, for all the reasons you listed.

What will work for you?

Aspire Nautilus tanks with 2.1 ohm coils. I vape those at 10.5 watts or 4.5 volts. Good vapor production and flavor but still a cool vape.
My preferred current topper is the Kayfun 2 plus. I use 29g Kanthal 8 to 9 wraps around 2mm coil winder for 1.3 to 1.5 ohm coils, wicked with cotton at 11.5 to 12.5 watts. Cool vape and very flavorful.

I'be tried lots of the "cool" new stuff, but these are my preferred methods of vaping.
 

quovadis

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I'm not sure. What exactly do you want to achieve?

Let me define the problem:
Been using stacked 3.7 volt batteries (8volts) for years with a 5ohm~5.5ohm pre-made atomizer. Pre-made in the sense that I have them made in China at that ohms value.
I find the Vivi nova coils or atomizers are losing flavor too fast, and I replace one every day. So i got sick and tired of buying these. I felt the need to transition to variable wattage system with something new as tank and atomizer, and got myself "conned" into this sub ohm stuff.
Since 2006~2007 when i started vaping I have never made my own coils or owned an RBA.
So I either need to find a pre-made atomizer and tank that will give me a good vape (and lasts more than one day without losing flavor), or I have to make my own coils.
The important elements are :
1. Mouth to lung
2. Cold/ cool vape
3. Plenty of taste
4. the atomizer has to last for a few days at least without suddenly deteriorating in a few hours.
 

BlueSnake

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I started on a Vamo V5 topped with a nautilus. Perfectly fine for MTL, cool vapor, decent taste and the 1.7ohm coils lasted me for a week. I used that setup for a long time. Never had any interest in subohm or lung hits or RBAs. In fact, I was anti-subohm for a really long time.

That is...until I tried a set up of my friends, and haven't looked back since. The satisfaction I get from rebuildables is unmatched in every aspect. And just because it's a rebuildable, doesn't mean you have to build it hot. And just because it's subohm doesn't mean it's going to be hot. There are waaaay too many variables to just write off rebuildables because of one experience with them.
 

zoiDman

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zoiDman

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More power means greater and faster vapor production, crackling is audible evidence of this almost explosive vapor production. To me it's a beautiful sound.
Reminds me of this time on the Trường Sơn trail back in '73.....

Time around the Mekong Delta is something that some people would like to be able to Forget.
 
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