Very disappointed with sub ohm vaping!

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quovadis

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Another thing I have noticed, and I have no clue if someone else has noticed this, is that if you look at any video of someone doing a review or rebuilding a coil etc...parts look huge on video. In fact, on the video I could clearly see the 0.5 ohms written on the Kanger pre-made atomizer. It was only when i received the atomizer that it looked ever so small, and I had to use a magnifying glass to read the same ohms value.
Also, micro-coils look gigantic on video, and in real life they are a mini-micro-coil of sorts. I'm trying to say that everything looks easier to build whilst watching the videos...I had better get one of those head worn magnifiers or whatever they are called. Having fat chubby fingers and no patience are also a problem I can foresee.
Now i can better understand why the guy in the video kept dropping things...it's because they are so small!!
 

miro011

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those are probably big vaping channels , I dont watch people like RIP Tripper , the guy acts like a total clown . Funny thing is that the most helpful vids i have found on youtube are made by germans and I dont even speak german . I remember watching some German guy with a GoPro on his head , I didnt understand a word but found it way more helpful than anything else
 

KGB7

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I started on a Vamo V5 topped with a nautilus. Perfectly fine for MTL, cool vapor, decent taste and the 1.7ohm coils lasted me for a week. I used that setup for a long time. Never had any interest in subohm or lung hits or RBAs. In fact, I was anti-subohm for a really long time.

That is...until I tried a set up of my friends, and haven't looked back since. The satisfaction I get from rebuildables is unmatched in every aspect. And just because it's a rebuildable, doesn't mean you have to build it hot. And just because it's subohm doesn't mean it's going to be hot. There are waaaay too many variables to just write off rebuildables because of one experience with them.


Exactly. You can make it as cold or as hot as you want it by making your own coils.
 

Thrasher

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I vape at around 0.7-0.9 ohm and mouth inhale just fine. Cool vapor, too. Not as in cold cold. But not warm or hot. It may get warm if chain vaping. Which to me is anything more than a few minutes.

Then again I mainly drop below the mystical 1 ohm mark for ease of coiling on mesh wicks and quick heat-up. Not for blowing clouds.

You may find that the best vape for you is (unfortunately) one you make yourself. There are a lot of variations between setups within all resistance ranges. You can have a super hot 2 ohm setup, or you can have a 0.1 ohm setup so inefficient it hardly brings liquids to a simmer. Or anything in between or outside those ranges.

Couldn't have said it any better.


Rba's man - exactly what you want from your vape everytime
 

quovadis

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Thanks guys...seems I have been barking up the wrong tree asking a pre-made wicked atomizer to give me satisfaction.
Now I need to shorten the learning curve and to identify a coil build that could work for me, quite rapidly.
In other words, gauge number or turns etc. Unfortunately, time is my worst enemy, and I cannot afford to start coiling all day long to try out multiple builds.
I am using pure VG diluted with some flavors. The flavors help balance the thick VG, so that e-liquids do not end up too thick. First question is do the coils have to be touching or spaced out? Secondly gauge of wire, turns and diameter of final coil.
Thirdly what wattage to apply to get a cool dense vape. I will probably be using the Kanger deck platform with closed airflow holes, or as Blue snake suggested a Kayfun Lite Plus V2 Clone.
Any suggestions would be more than welcome, and could potentially help save time.
 

roxynoodle

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I don't like hot vapor or direct lung inhales. I agree the flavor isn't as good. However, I do enjoy some dual coil, subohm setups.

I love both the Aqua v1 and v2 around 0.7 ohm.

Love my Gus Estia at 0.5-0.6 ohm.

My new Aga t-7 at 0.8 ohm.

Just put a dual 0.6 ohm in a Tilemahos, and its rocking.

All of those suit my vaping style :)

But, didn't care for the Silverplay. Have a feeling I would only like the Subtank with my own build and most of the air shut down.

So, its not that I don't like subohm. I just don't like some things.
 

JeremyR

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I think I have to build some higher resistance coils as some of you suggested. The materials are on the way. I have only tried 0.5 and 1.2 ohm pre-made atomizers up til now. I think that a 26 gauge, 6 turns or more, with even spacing (for vg liquid) should be good. I use VG 100% with some Capella flavors
I was used to vaping 22mg nicotine, but this is too ferocious for these sub ohm systems, and certainly gets the old heart racing faster.
What I simply do not understand is people showing these you tube videos with 25 watts and 0.5 ohm being a sweet spot on the Kanger pre-made coils, when it's like a furnace for me.
As for someone mentioning that there are different ways to "lung inhale" this is quite confusing. I understand there is a potential of speed/rate and quantity of inhale difference. I do not see how there's another "way" to lung inhale? Am i missing out on something?

First ohms isn't everything and you have a regulated device. Turn the wattage down to about 8-10. Edit: oh wait can the ipv go that low I'd have to check it may not down regulate.

Sub ohm on a mech and on a vv/vw regulated device are two different things. Wire gauges change many factors.

Your draw effects the power capability of the coil without overheating. The more air the more power it can take because the air keeps the coil from overheating. The 25w videos, they are taking lungs hits. I take lung hits and actually I find the flavor better, but I guess it could depend on the juice.

Just the speed or strength of your draw will affect the power needed to get the vape you want. So yeah turn it down to 10 or less for now, work around there go with the power that works for your vaping.

It took me a while to start lung inhaling, you gotta start small if you want to try it.
 
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Dioxyde

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Yep, the lung inhale does feel creepy when you're first trying it, I remember the feeling. People just love to consume those giant hits, myself included, although I find that when I've been doing lung inhales for awhile I start wanting the mouth to lung again, the flavor gets considerably better with mouth to lung and it feels more like smoking that's for sure.
 

Oberon75

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There is your problem, should have told us from the get-go.

You should be using 3mg nic.
Probably more like 6 to 12mg if he was at 22mg. I came from 24mg in a Nautilus and I know that if I was trying to chain vape 3mg, I would be chain smoking as well.

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KGB7

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Probably more like 6 to 12mg if he was at 22mg. I came from 24mg in a Nautilus and I know that if I was trying to chain vape 3mg, I would be chain smoking as well.

Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition

We must learn to walk before we can run and when making such a big leap in hardware, i think its best to start with lowest Nic to avoid any further disappointments.
Juice is cheap, but bad experience is hard to return for a refund.

:)
 

Oberon75

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We must learn to walk before we can run and when making such a big leap in hardware, i think its best to start with lowest Nic to avoid any further disappointments. :)
Everyone is different I guess but when I switched from the Nautilus to Atlantis, I went straight from 24mg to 12mg as recommended in the sub-ohm section. I played around with 6mg also since some Max VG lines don't come stronger but for the most part, it's rather unsatisfying and I go through it a lot faster.

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MagicJosh

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Aspire mini is a mouth to lung tank, 100 percent.
That's why I didn't like it. Vaping any mg of e liquid will not give me a nic buzz like actual cigarettes does. In my beginning stages of quitting cigarettes I needed larger hits for me to get that big vapor nicotine rush. Subtank mini is cool but Im already wanting something stronger.

Anyone that likes mouth to lung inhales will love the mini. Thats from my experiences with it.

;)
 

Cacique

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I would recommend playing around with steam engine. Put in the ohms and all other info and then check how the different wire gauges affect your heat flux. Aim for something between blue and green for a cooler vape and then try some of those gauges. Aiming for 6+ wraps, at least for sub ohm is a good idea in order to have more wick heating up, and give you more vapor without the wick getting too hot.

I like sub ohm and cloud chasing, so once I found the ohms I wanted to be in, I just had to figure out the wire gauge to have it at the temperature that I like. I like my vape also on the cooler side, so I stick on the green zone close to the blue.
 

KGB7

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Everyone is different I guess but when I switched from the Nautilus to Atlantis, I went straight from 24mg to 12mg as recommended in the sub-ohm section. I played around with 6mg also since some Max VG lines don't come stronger but for the most part, it's rather unsatisfying and I go through it a lot faster.

Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition

When i started vaping, i only used 0mg juice for the first 4-5 month. After vaping with Kanger Tank, then Nautilus mini, Atlanis and now Lemo. I only started vaping Nic juice because my buddy vaped 3mg Nic juice and i was curious and wanted to try it. Took me about 2 days to get used to vaping 3mg nic. After a month vaping 3mg Nic based juice, at times i can handle 6mg Nic and 12mg Nic makes me cough too hard. Plus the juice at 12mg nic tastes like crap, so i keep it at 3mg.

But i sub ohm and intake a much larger amount of vapor then you would with a clearomizer.
 

Oberon75

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When i started vaping, i only used 0mg juice for the first 4-5 month. After vaping with Kanger Tank, then Nautilus mini, Atlanis and now Lemo. I only started vaping Nic juice because my buddy vaped 3mg Nic juice and i was curious and wanted to try it. Took me about 2 days to get used to vaping 3mg nic. After a month vaping 3mg Nic based juice, at times i can handle 6mg Nic and 12mg Nic makes me cough too hard. Plus the juice at 12mg nic tastes like crap, so i keep it at 3mg.

But i sub ohm and intake a much larger amount of vapor then you would with a clearomizer.
And I couldn't even imagine using that low of nic. What he starts with is all going to be relative to how he vaped before and quite possibly his smoking habits as well. If he tried 22mg, sub-ohming, I'm assuming 22 to 24mg was his vape before. If that's the nic he is used to, I highly doubt 3mg would do enough for him unless he is vaping some pretty high watts.

The Atlantis was my introduction to this kind of vaping and I very much needed 12mg, coming from 24. Right now my ADV is 12mg, 0.16 Ohms at 480 degrees, 40 watts in an Aeolus RDA. When I drop it to 6mg, I'm generally at 60w to 70w with a Mutation X V2, using my iPV.

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KGB7

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And I couldn't even imagine using that low of nic. What he starts with is all going to be relative to how he vaped before and quite possibly his smoking habits as well. If he tried 22mg, sub-ohming, I'm assuming 22 to 24mg was his vape before. If that's the nic he is used to, I highly doubt 3mg would do enough for him unless he is vaping some pretty high watts.

The Atlantis was my introduction to this kind of vaping and I very much needed 12mg, coming from 24. Right now my ADV is 12mg, 0.16 Ohms at 480 degrees, 40 watts in an Aeolus RDA. When I drop it to 6mg, I'm generally at 60w to 70w with a Mutation X V2, using my iPV.

Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition

When you increase wattage and vapor intake, you also increase Nic dosage intake. So if you are used to vaping 22mg at lets say 10w, at 40w you are inhaling more then double nic mg.

And if you are subohming at high wattage, then Nic intake will be substantially higher per inhale as juice volume consumption increases at the same time.Thus the vape will be harsher and uncomfortable. Which will lead to a disappointing vape experience.

That is why i suggest OP should start low and work his way up to his comfort level. Vaping is not a race, its a life time journey, so make the best out of it.

edit;

My trick to keep the tank cool when chain vaping at subohm, is to continue inhaling for another 4 seconds after releasing the fire button. It also helps to reduce harshness when vaping high nic juice, as you continue to intake additional air in to your lungs.
 
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Oberon75

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When you increase wattage and vapor intake, you also increase Nic dosage intake. So if you are used to vaping 22mg at less say 10w, at 40w you are inhaling more then double then nic.

And if you are subohming at high wattage, then Nic intake will be substantially higher per inhale as juice volume consumption increases at the same time.Thus the vape will be harsher and uncomfortable. Which will lead to a disappointing vape experience.

Start low and work your way up to your comfort level.
That makes sense however by vaping 12mg, I'm also only using 3 to 5ml a day at higher watts. And perhaps it's just me but vaping 12mg at higher watts with higher VG, it's a much more comfortable vape then my old 24mg Halo Voodoo and Midnight Apple was with my MVP 2.0 which I chain vaped to death.

Now I guess he could start either way but if he did go the 3mg route like you recommend instead of the 12mg route like I recommend, he should make sure it's with a juice that comes in higher strengths as well so he can mix accordingly to bring the strength up without having wasted juice if he is unsatisfied.

Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition
 

Podunk Steam

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I can associate with you although you have a few more years vaping than I do. I still have 5 ohm cartos and the tanks I used them in although the Omega I stacked 18350s in has been sacrificed to the mods. Too many hot spring went the way of the Dodo!
Kayfun Lite Plus V2
The only hesitation I'd have is the 100% VG offset with flavorings, sounds about Bobas Bounty thick to me. I've built wick and coils in Kayfuns for Bobas, it's a touchy game for a new comer to coil and wick building.
I'd go Lemo with an o-ring on the threaded stem for the air adjustment nut and snug the nut against the o-ring to keep it in place once you find your preferred draw, or in doing so.

The wick is the tricky part with thicker liquids, I now use Rayon/Cellucotton, it's cheap and has a shorter break in period than the organic cottons I have used. The picture below is one way I have found that helps thicker liquids to flow into the wick from the tank. The left side is the better example with a channel through the wick down to the liquid channels in the Lemos deck.
IMG_20141124_090720_zpsyebcvid8.jpg

I lay a pair of scissor across the top of the atomizing chamber after threading the wick up through and screwing the atomizing chamber down on the deck and just snip the excess off. Wet the wick, fold it over so the ends point down toward the liquid channels and push it into place with an T topped Upholstery needle/pin then open a channel down through the wick to the liquid channels in the deck so I can see a little light showing up through the channel in the wick.

Spaced coils tend to last a little longer in my opinion but the contact coils I find easier to build. 26 gauge is robust enough to be able to rewick a bunch of times. I burn off the liquid build up (gunk) by pulling out the wick and heating the coils up red hot and washing under a trickle of tap water but not while the coil is electrified.

I'd go spaced coils, 6 wraps on a 9/64ths inch drill bit. The Cellucotton if you get into some you almost have to try to use too much of. It was explained to me when I was introduced to Cellucotton that you have enough wick going through the coils when it feels almost as it if it want to squeak, it's kind of a vibratory feel while pulling the wick through the coils but with just a little resistance while pulling.

I think I just set a new personal length-o-post record for myself.
 

Yozhik

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First question is do the coils have to be touching or spaced out? Secondly gauge of wire, turns and diameter of final coil.
Thirdly what wattage to apply to get a cool dense vape. I will probably be using the Kanger deck platform with closed airflow holes, or as Blue snake suggested a Kayfun Lite Plus V2 Clone.
Any suggestions would be more than welcome, and could potentially help save time.

Coils can be spaced or touching. Generally, I build them with the coils in contact, because it makes for easier setup and takes up less space on the deck.

I'd recommend starting with Kanthal 28 or 30 gauge wire and playing around with single coils in the range of 1 to 2 ohms. As to wattage, start low on your mod and increase it until you hit a sweet spot.

One thing that makes building Kanthal micro-coils real easy is the "Coil Master", just don't lose the parts. I got mine for $8 from Fasttech.
 
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