vivi nova modders

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L7D4N

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Look beyond the first page of links and you will find multiple vendors that have 32g. All I'm trying to say is that you don't need to wait for the guy on ebay to get it in stock. Just google it and order it... It's a lot easier than people make it out to be. I was convinced the stuff was hard to come by when I searched on this forum because people were waiting for some dude on ebay to post his auctions. It is very common and easy to find.

The only stuff I'm seeing through the link is nichrome. The "resistance heater wire" on pages 5+ are 80/20 NiChrome, and it's personally what I use. I'm not a big fan of kanthal anyway, but if anyone is looking to buy nichrome from a vendor, madvapes has been carrying it for years:

NiChrome 60 Wire 34 Gauge
NiChrome 60 Wire 36 Gauge
NiChrome 60 Wire 38 Gauge

I personally use 36, as I vape HV/High Resistance.
 

Teach

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Look beyond the first page of links and you will find multiple vendors that have 32g. All I'm trying to say is that you don't need to wait for the guy on ebay to get it in stock. Just google it and order it... It's a lot easier than people make it out to be. I was convinced the stuff was hard to come by when I searched on this forum because people were waiting for some dude on ebay to post his auctions. It is very common and easy to find.

All I find is nichrome too - the request was for kanthal, but I'd recommend nicrhrome when kanthal isn't available.
 

MickeyRat

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Secondly, NOTE: KANATHAL & NICHROME Wire can be used interchangeably - "Kanthal" being the Brand Name of the Nichrome Wire produced from one manufacturer.

While Kanthal is a manufacter's brand name, it's not their brand name for nichrome. Kanthal is an alloy composed of iron, chrome and aluminum. Nichrome is an alloy composed of nickel, chrome and sometimes iron.

They can be used interchangeably in many cases. However, my reading of those with a lot more experience making coils than I have, indicates that kanthal stands up to the stress of expansion better than nichrome.
 

WillyB

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I followed your search link, but don't see any 32ga kanthal. I think they were looking for kanthal due to the different properties - I keep nichrome for backup... but use kanthal when I have it. Some people have a problem with the nickel in the NiCr - others just like the higher max operating temp of the FrCrAl kanthal.
Some folks have a problem with the iron taste of Kanthal.

Max operating temp?

NiCrA
Chemical Composition: 80% Ni, 20% Cr
Approx. Melting Point: 1400 deg C


• Most environments to 2150ºF (1175ºC)
• Density: .3039 Lbs/In2
• Specific Gravity: 8.412
• Melting Point: 2550ºF (1400ºC)


That's not high enough? :)
 

MickeyRat

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Some folks have a problem with the iron taste of Kanthal.

I've never noticed that but, might just be my juice drowning it out or my crummy sense of taste. I don't use Kanthal because of any higher operating temp. Nichrome is certainly suitable for that. I use it for its reputed machanical durability. Again I have to say that I'm only going by what I've read not from experience. Any coil is going to expand when heated. Kanthal is said to stand up to those repeated expansions and contractions better than nichrome. So, that's what I bought.

I wouldn't hesitate to use nichrome, if I had it around.
 

Teach

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Some folks have a problem with the iron taste of Kanthal.

Max operating temp?

NiCrA
Chemical Composition: 80% Ni, 20% Cr
Approx. Melting Point: 1400 deg C


• Most environments to 2150ºF (1175ºC)
• Density: .3039 Lbs/In2
• Specific Gravity: 8.412
• Melting Point: 2550ºF (1400ºC)


That's not high enough? :)

I don't have a problem with nichrome or kanthal... use them both. This came up with someone looking only for kanthal... couldn't find any available at the time.

There are some that have nickel sensitivities - if trying to avoid that, then kantal is a good option. Titanium, as far as my searchs go, I have only found in grade 5 and not considered 'pure'. I'm sure eventually it will be in the pipeline also, but looks like it may take a while.
 

Mroutlaw

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Well, I just got my 32 gauge nicrome in and it's too small of a gauge. With 7 wraps, i'm getting 1.8 ohms. I was getting 2.6 when using kanthal a-1

Guess I should try 34 or 36 gauge -- anyone have any suggestions?

Looking to be between 2.4 and 2.8ohms. Obviously, 7 wraps is too much, I can barely fit in in the slot


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LucentShadow

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Well, I just got my 32 gauge nicrome in and it's too small of a gauge. With 7 wraps, i'm getting 1.8 ohms. I was getting 2.6 when using kanthal a-1

Guess I should try 34 or 36 gauge -- anyone have any suggestions?

Looking to be between 2.4 and 2.8ohms. Obviously, 7 wraps is too much, I can barely fit in in the slot

I use NiCr (80/20) 34 gauge when making coils around 2 ohms. Usually ends up being 4-5 turns, depending upon my wick. I also have 36 gauge for making small 3+ ohm coils, but have not used it yet. It's about 50% more resistant than 34 gauge, so should make the jump from 2 ohms to 3 ohms with the same length.

I got mine at PnJ Resources, 100' each of the 34 and 36. They shipped it on little flat spools in a single letter-sized envelope with two stamps on it.
 

Mroutlaw

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I use NiCr (80/20) 34 gauge when making coils around 2 ohms. Usually ends up being 4-5 turns, depending upon my wick. I also have 36 gauge for making small 3+ ohm coils, but have not used it yet. It's about 50% more resistant than 34 gauge, so should make the jump from 2 ohms to 3 ohms with the same length.

I got mine at PnJ Resources, 100' each of the 34 and 36. They shipped it on little flat spools in a single letter-sized envelope with two stamps on it.

So you think 6 wraps of 34 gauge will do it? I would rather have 5 or 6 cols then 3-4


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LucentShadow

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So you think 6 wraps of 34 gauge will do it? I would rather have 5 or 6 cols then 3-4

I do think so, but it's hard to say for sure. My wick may be a different diameter than yours. I usually end up with 2.2 ohms at 4 wraps of 34 gauge on a vivi nova with doubled-back-and-twisted legs to keep them from burning the seal, which adds a small amount of resistance compared to some other rebuildables.

Based upon the numbers I've seen, I'd estimate that you'd get about 2.4-2.5 ohms at 6 wraps of the same diameter as your first example. (edit- diameter of the coil, that is.)
 

Mroutlaw

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I do think so, but it's hard to say for sure. My wick may be a different diameter than yours. I usually end up with 2.2 ohms at 4 wraps of 34 gauge on a vivi nova with doubled-back-and-twisted legs to keep them from burning the seal, which adds a small amount of resistance compared to some other rebuildables.

Based upon the numbers I've seen, I'd estimate that you'd get about 2.4-2.5 ohms at 6 wraps of the same diameter as your first example. (edit- diameter of the coil, that is.)

Maybe I won't wind the coils so tight. The way I have been winding, I can barely slide the wick when I remove the needle.

When you say you are double back and twisting legs, are you using a non resistance wire for that or just doubling the resistance wire. I wonder if I can just double up on the resistance wire at the legs to increase the resistance. This way I don't have to waste the 100' roll of 32 gauge I have.


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LucentShadow

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Maybe I won't wind the coils so tight. The way I have been winding, I can barely slide the wick when I remove the needle.

When you say you are double back and twisting legs, are you using a non resistance wire for that or just doubling the resistance wire. I wonder if I can just double up on the resistance wire at the legs to increase the resistance. This way I don't have to waste the 100' roll of 32 gauge I have.

I was using strands of non-resistance speaker wire, basically splicing the resistance wire between two lengths of that by twisting them together and clipping the excess perpendicular twisted bit off. It's a bit of a pain, as you have to leave a fair amount of twist to keep them together, and that makes it hard to avoid shorts to the side metal.

What I mentioned above is just making the resistance wire a bit longer, then folding back the legs so that the end comes up to the coil, then twisting each doubled leg into a tight helix to ensure good contact between both strands of the leg. It actually lowers the resistance of the legs to half that of the coil, so they don't heat up much. This method makes the legs thicker than the other method, as they are twisted pairs instead of a single strand, so it displaces the seal a bit more when putting it together. It works well, though, if you can keep from accidentally unwinding the legs while you are turning the coil.

If you want to use the 32 gauge for that, It'd probably work either way, but the first method would still have fairly hot legs unless you spliced doubled 32 gauge to the 34 gauge.
 

Sicarius

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Don't know if this has been posted, but have a fair amount of success with the following coil winding using 32ga Kanthal-A

Each one of the coil loops gets a single wick though and they end up being a stacked arrangement. This was debated to improve air flow over the coils.

As per Vivi 101 it has the double wound legs to minimise heating up and the whole lot fits into the cup nicely.

P1030895.jpg

PITA to build, but works great.

Figure 8 Coil
 
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LucentShadow

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Don't know if this has been posted, but have a fair amount of success with the following coil winding using 32ga Kanthal-A

Each one of the coil loops gets a single wick though and they end up being a stacked arrangement. This was debated to improve air flow over the coils.

As per Vivi 101 it has the double wound legs to minimise heating up and the whole lot fits into the cup nicely.

View attachment 118127

PITA to build, but works great.

I think I've seen Gummy post something very similar somewhere, but I think he modded his vivi head with a bigger, non-conductive cup made of jasper.

Those pics are awesome, and the are also the first I've seen that demonstrate the doubled-back legs. Nicely done. :)

I guess I'll have to try and tackle that sometime, now.

@ Mroutlaw - The pics above demonstrate what I was trying to explain earlier, along with the tutorial linked to below for the non-resistance wire method:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/295410-vivi-nova-rebuild-tutorial.html
 

Mroutlaw

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I think I've seen Gummy post something very similar somewhere, but I think he modded his vivi head with a bigger, non-conductive cup made of jasper.

Those pics are awesome, and the are also the first I've seen that demonstrate the doubled-back legs. Nicely done. :)

I guess I'll have to try and tackle that sometime, now.

@ Mroutlaw - The pics above demonstrate what I was trying to explain earlier, along with the tutorial linked to below for the non-resistance wire method:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/295410-vivi-nova-rebuild-tutorial.html

Yep, I got it, going to attempt tomorrow. I'll post how it goes. I hate to waste this wire, but then again I used to spend $10 a day on analogs. The roll of wire was only $6


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