VOLT X2 GIANT CLEAROMIZERS!! 1.6ml of nicquid - 8 color choices!!!

[Wuzznt Me]

Yep. Since it's meant to stop people from inhaling it, it's probably not good to spray it into vaping gear.

I build computers and stopped using canned air many years ago because it was just too expensive as I was going through at least 3 or 4 cans a week.
Now I use a rechargeable Coleman Quickpump I picked up at Walmart for about $30. Trim the little square piece off the cone attachment and it works great both for blowing out computers and vaping accessories. Just keep it clean so you aren't blowing dust around (or rig up an air filter on the intake) and it works great. I've had mine for about 4 years now and it's still going which has saved me thousands on canned air with no additives to worry about.

Sounds like a nice way to mod one. I go through a can every couple of months doing this and that. I doubt the bitterant is harmful or it would defeat the purpose but no sense in taking in anything extra. I've got compressors but just use the cans for simple chores around the house like blowing out my guns if they get sandy and my keyboard once in a while. Not so much now that I don't dump ashes down it lol.

 

[SaraBee]

Thanks Wuzz. You weren't overly descriptive. Some of us need to be talked through. I missed the washing out after dry burning step on my first attempt at cleaning and it tasted pretty terrible. I won't make that mistake again. I'm waiting for my new attempt at dry burning to dry out to see how it goes.

Here's my cleaning update that nobody asked for! My clearo is back in action and vaping like a champ. I used it for two weeks straight without doing any maintenance, so I'm pretty shocked! $6 well spent I'd say.

 

[Wuzznt Me]

Here's my cleaning update that nobody asked for! My clearo is back in action and vaping like a champ. I used it for two weeks straight without doing any maintenance, so I'm pretty shocked! $6 well spent I'd say.

Thanks for posting it. I asked for it in post 436. Bet it tastes better than it did on the second week of no cleaning. On the regular cartos I'm always to cheap to toss them and too lazy to clean them. These not only cost more but they're a lot easier to clean. Makes it worthwhile since it's so simple even I can do it and most of them respond so well. They're usually not done for until they crack or show some physical damage. Some will get a weakening of the coil if the dry burn doesn't go well or they just get too old. Since they're not my primary all day it's going to be hard to tell how long one would last if it were all I used. I'm expecting at least a month or two the way I'm using them.

 

[trichman]

Ok Wuzznt, I'll try it this weekend. I was waiting for a good "how to" and you provided that. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks

 

[DedTV]

I doubt the bitterant is harmful or it would defeat the purpose

It's not harmful. But it has a horrible flavor. Just a little bit of residue of it in a cart or atty would be like adding Ipecac to your juice. Ick!

I also avoid using a compressor as it can be too powerful and damage fragile things like atty coils if you aren't really careful about how close you are with the nozzle. Learned that by blowing most the capacitors off a motherboard with the garage compressor for my tools (vacuums are a bad idea for the same reason BTW).

 

[Voltron]

I would suggest removing the plastic cup and metal tip with a paperclip before dry burning the clearos. Even though it's kinda tricky because the plastic is about the same size as the hole in the mouthpiece; you basically have to yank it out to remove it. But after that it's easy to see the coil and to rinse out the ash produced by the burning gunk, as the wick is fully exposed. I would imagine rinsing with the cup on wouldn't be as effective in terms of getting rid of the ashy taste.

 

[Wuzznt Me]

I would suggest removing the plastic cup and metal tip with a paperclip before dry burning the clearos. Even though it's kinda tricky because the plastic is about the same size as the hole in the mouthpiece; you basically have to yank it out to remove it. But after that it's easy to see the coil and to rinse out the ash produced by the burning gunk, as the wick is fully exposed. I would imagine rinsing with the cup on wouldn't be as effective in terms of getting rid of the ashy taste.

I haven't experienced any trouble leaving the cap on myself. The simpler I can keep it the more often I'll do it. I watched a you tube video where a guy took the whole thing apart (not a Volt but another brand) cleaned it and put it back together. His next video was about making a new wick and coil for one out of stuff he bought from two different places. Ain't goin there either. For what they cost I'll only go through so much trouble. When I have to start tricky disassembly and trickier reassembly they go in the trash.

 

[DedTV]

His next video was about making a new wick and coil for one out of stuff he bought from two different places.

I like to tinker so I plan to try rebuilding one just to see how it goes. Problem is, I haven't had one die yet
By being diligent in maintaining them, all except the one that had leaking issues (which a rebuild wouldn't have fixed) all of mine are still performing like new.

 

[Wuzznt Me]

I like to tinker so I plan to try rebuilding one just to see how it goes. Problem is, I haven't had one die yet
By being diligent in maintaining them, all except the one that had leaking issues (which a rebuild wouldn't have fixed) all of mine are still performing like new.

I've got things I'd rather tinker with while I'm vaping lol. You're right about diligently maintaining them. They just don't die. Good rinse and quick dry burn followed by another quick rinse and it's better than new.

 

[CatLady007]

Hey guys! I've been rinsing mine, allowing to dry, then refilling with the same liquids. So far, so good, but my wicks are beginning to look spiky instead of fluffy. Any ideas that don't involve alcohol?

 

[SaraBee]

Has anyone had issues with a really tight draw? I just opened a new clearo and it's like sucking on a golfball. The six others had a perfect draw. Any ideas on a fix for this or what the issue might be? I tried loosening it on the battery, but it had no effect.

 

[JENerationX]

Has anyone posted how long the clearomizer is? I'm assuming diameter is about 14mm like the X2, but trying to calculate a fully assembled length with the 650mah batt for an artboxz case.

 

[hs3000]

Just did a quick measure, 14mm clearomizer diameter.
Overall length of 650 batt with clearo attached is approximately 150mm or 6& 1/4 inches.

Hope that helps

hs

 

[JENerationX]

That'll work! Thanks! I have at least 10 rulers in this house, you'd think I'd be able to find ONE of them at least. LOL I have to have one of of these for when I go somewhere fancy.

http://youtu.be/DMpM0_PwYhA

 

[trichman]

I finally tried the dry burn and it took several 10 second burns to get the smoke started. After that, only a few more shorter burns until it stopped and I could see the orange coil. I then let it cool, rinsed it out, let it dry, and BAM, just like new. So the one I cleaned was like a month old and it is like new again.

Thanks for all the great instructions. I didn't attempt to remove the cap off the coil as I'm not very mechanical.

 

[rave]

I finally tried the dry burn and it took several 10 second burns to get the smoke started. After that, only a few more shorter burns until it stopped and I could see the orange coil. I then let it cool, rinsed it out, let it dry, and BAM, just like new. So the one I cleaned was like a month old and it is like new again.

Thanks for all the great instructions. I didn't attempt to remove the cap off the coil as I'm not very mechanical.

It really isn't difficult. I don't take the whole thing apart to do a dry burn as shown in some videos. It seems to me that this type of treatment could lead to cracking the shell and/or leaking. If you remove the mouthpiece, you can easily reach inside with a pair of needle nosed pliers, grasp the metal pip, and pull it out through the opening. It will come out with little trouble, but it is snug. It's even easier to replace when you're done with the dry burn.

The advantage to removing the silicone cap and metal pip is that you can rinse off any ash and burnt residue after you've performed the dry burn. It won't remain trapped within.

 

[trichman]

It really isn't difficult. I don't take the whole thing apart to do a dry burn as shown in some videos. It seems to me that this type of treatment could lead to cracking the shell and/or leaking. If you remove the mouthpiece, you can easily reach inside with a pair of needle nosed pliers, grasp the metal pip, and pull it out through the opening. It will come out with little trouble, but it is snug. It's even easier to replace when you're done with the dry burn.

The advantage to removing the silicone cap and metal pip is that you can rinse off any ash and burnt residue after you've performed the dry burn. It won't remain trapped within.

Thanks Rave. I'll try that tonight on my next one tonight. I didn't realize you could grab the pipe and pull it out. I thought you had to pull the silicone cap out and that seemed hard. It makes sense to remove it to get the ash out after burning it. Thanks for pointing that out! I'm slow but I get there eventually.

 

[rave]

Thanks Rave. I'll try that tonight on my next one tonight. I didn't realize you could grab the pipe and pull it out. I thought you had to pull the silicone cap out and that seemed hard. It makes sense to remove it to get the ash out after burning it. Thanks for pointing that out! I'm slow but I get there eventually.

Sounds to me like you're doing just fine. The silicone cap does come out with the pipe, but it isn't difficult if you have a firm grip on it with a pair of needle nosed pliers. It doesn't take any real force. The silicone doesn't want to come out of the hole, but it is flexible, and not that hard to get it out.

The dry burn does a fantastic job of rejuvenating these clearos, and it's great that you're doing it.

 

[trichman]

Sounds to me like you're doing just fine. The silicone cap does come out with the pipe, but it isn't difficult if you have a firm grip on it with a pair of needle nosed pliers. It doesn't take any real force. The silicone doesn't want to come out of the hole, but it is flexible, and not that hard to get it out.

The dry burn does a fantastic job of rejuvenating these clearos, and it's great that you're doing it.

If it weren't for you, Wuzznt, and all the helpful people here, I would be throwing them away. I am so grateful for the help I have gotten here.

 

[fuzzione]

Tried both dry burn methods, just to compare.

Method 1: Rinse, dry burn, let dry a bit (or not) and refill.
Method 2: Rinse, dry burn, RINSE AGAIN, let dry a bit and refill.

There is no question that unmentionable things get left behind if you dry burn and don't rinse again thereafter. The difference in taste was quite dramatic.

Warning: I killed one of them with my mad scientist experiments. Kept dry burning despite seeing the coil glowing red,'just to make sure' all the gunk was off the coil. Bad move. Terrible taste. Took it apart and found the wick was burned (duh). Moral of the story is don't overdo the dry burning. Once you see the coil glow for the first time stop, otherwise you may over-dry and burn it. Unless you rewick I think this error is not recoverable.

RIP my beloved amber clearo, and... sorry 'bout that.