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But one could use the term "TCR mod" to signify that a specific mod in question mod is a TC mod that requires manual input of TCR values. So...
TC mod = Temp control mod with hard-coded TCR values.
TCR mod = Temp control mod that requires manual input of TCR values, therefore requiring more freedom/flexibility for those that want/need it.
That may not be typical (yet) but if someone told me they had a TCR mod, I would think they meant "needs manual TCR value entry".
But TCR values are required regardless if they are pre-set or manually inputted.
We also have TFR (Temperature Factors of Resistance) for the handful of devices that support it. Would a DNA be a TCR mod, TFR mod or just a TC mod?
Ping, you are in "TC-SS" mode where it does skip over the 105 TCR setting. That's the Solo's default SS316L setting. It needs to be changed to "TC-TCR" mode for you to change the TCR.
To get the Solo from TC-SS to TC-TCR mode press the Fire button 3x then press the +/- button to scroll through the different modes. When it displays TC-TCR mode press the Fire button again until the cursor lands on "TCR" (3x). Then press either +/- to increase/decrease the TCR setting to what you want.
After you made your adjustments you can either hold the Fire button for 1 second and it will save and exit the settings. Or just leave it and the Solo will save and exit the settings mode after 5 seconds.
Easy.
Nico was suggesting a temperature setting for both devices not the actual TCR setting itself. They're different. He told me what the default 316L TCR setting is for the Colossal's but I don't remember. I do have it written down, somewhere.
The temperature setting, in fahrenheit, bottoms out at 212 on the Colossal and Miniken. You set the temperature to your liking. There is no one setting that "rules them all" under TC. I vape between 375-445 in TC/TCR. If you haven't tried anything other than 420 I would suggest trying lower and even higher temp settings. You might like the result better.
On the Asmodus Colossal's when you are in TCR mode, not TC mode, the TCR settings start at 0.00000. The value you set depends on the type of wire you are using. There are a range of values for each of the commonly used wire types.
Setting the TCR is just further customizing the TC experience.
All TC mods use the TCR to function properly. Mods come with presets for different metals. Some mods also allow manual entry. You only need to use that if the metal setting already on the mod does not provide a decent TC vape, or you use a metal not programmed in (example most mods view SS as 316L, but you might choose to build with a SS 430 wire and enter the corresponding value for that wire.
Be aware that not all mods that accept manual TCR entry do so in the standard method as available from reference data. Voopoo uses their own weird numbering system for TCR values, requiring you to do some sort of conversion to their way of doing business. Why they do that is unclear to me, but it is the type of idiosyncratic issues you may run in to so a double check on this forum with folks already using that mod can help save you from some grief and bald spots from pulling your hair out as you can’t get the mod to work properly in temp control mode.
Be aware that not all mods that accept manual TCR entry do so in the standard method as available from reference data. Voopoo uses their own weird numbering system for TCR values, requiring you to do some sort of conversion to their way of doing business. Why they do that is unclear to me, but it is the type of idiosyncratic issues you may run in to so a double check on this forum with folks already using that mod can help save you from some grief and bald spots from pulling your hair out as you can’t get the mod to work properly in temp control mode.
That is a Very Good point Eskie.
When it comes to vaping, there is no such thing as an idiotic question - only idiotic answers
(and there haven't been any in this thread)Using ss316l wire as an example: one mod will have its TC SS set to a TCR of 92, another 110, and another 102. There is obviously no set in stone SS316l TCR value - it varies between the different manufacturers and types of SS wire.
As you can't adjust this TC SS setting - that is where TCR mode comes in. You can set that value to whatever you want. Think of it, as fine tuning your TC mod.
And as others have said - the best way to get the most out of TC vaping, is to play, tinker and experiment.
Have fun
I'm going to wax pedantic: This would only be true of if you started out with a 1.0 ohm coil at the nominal/reference temperature.
Let's make it simpler:
230°C - 25°C = 205°C temperature rise.
205 * 0.00095 (TCR) * 0.5 ohms = 0.097 ohms (delta-R).
Thus the resistance of a nominal 0.5 ohm coil at 230°C will be 0.597 ohms.
This also shows why SS is a relatively poor choice for TC. You're looking at a very small change in resistance due to its low TCR.
Then there's also the fact that TCR isn't necessarily linear; i.e. TCR itself may vary with temperature. That's why the best TC boards let you input a "curve".
Have I mentioned that I decided I don't need all that complication in my life and went back to vaping mechanical squonkers roughly four years ago? 
Shouldn't this be 205 * 0.00095 (TCR) + 0.5 ohms = 0.695 ohms (delta + starting resistance)
Another clarification. The TCR of a given wire is so to speak "set in stone". A reference piece of metal that meets the standard for the "identification" of that alloy will always be the same. If it's not, it doesn't meet the reference spec for the class of metal. So a piece of metal of SS 316L will always have a TCR of 92. If it doesn't, it's not really 316L as specified by the standard for that particular alloy. This can happen if the metal/wire has impurities or slightly different ratios of the metal used to manufacture the final product/wire. Remember, SS like Kanthal is an alloy of several metals mixed together to provide that final product. It's like a recipe. Follow it precisely and it should always come out the same.
Not all boards in mods have the same ability to accurately measure the small changes in resistance that occur with heating. Adjusting the TCR so some number other than the spec of the metal chosen, say 92 for 316L, is simply a way of making the board behave properly and accurately. It's the mod at fault, not the metal (assuming you have properly manufactured wire). If all was designed and manufactured precisely no such adjustments would be needed. If your mod was accurate in measuring small resistance changes in real time, then the TCR may vary depending on the source of the wire. Just because it's labelled 316L doesn't mean it was manufactured exactly to that "recipe", especially for cheap wire from off brand sources. Then you're hunting around trying to figure out what the TCR really is for the wire you have.
Finally, TCR was really meant to allow the use of other metals than the 3 presets. So if you want to use say SS 430. Here's an example listing the TCR for a variety of metals you might use that would require manual entry. Standard things like 316L also appear.
So if you build with SS 430, you'd have to manually enter the TCR value of 138 (usually we leave the first two zeros off for convenience). You can also see that Kanthal has a TCR of 2, which is why you can't use it for temp control, there simply isn't any appreciable change in resistance to measure with heating.
Not all boards in mods have the same ability to accurately measure the small changes in resistance that occur with heating. Adjusting the TCR so some number other than the spec of the metal chosen, say 92 for 316L, is simply a way of making the board behave properly and accurately. It's the mod at fault, not the metal (assuming you have properly manufactured wire). If all was designed and manufactured precisely no such adjustments would be needed. If your mod was accurate in measuring small resistance changes in real time, then the TCR may vary depending on the source of the wire. Just because it's labelled 316L doesn't mean it was manufactured exactly to that "recipe", especially for cheap wire from off brand sources. Then you're hunting around trying to figure out what the TCR really is for the wire you have.
Finally, TCR was really meant to allow the use of other metals than the 3 presets. So if you want to use say SS 430. Here's an example listing the TCR for a variety of metals you might use that would require manual entry. Standard things like 316L also appear.
So if you build with SS 430, you'd have to manually enter the TCR value of 138 (usually we leave the first two zeros off for convenience). You can also see that Kanthal has a TCR of 2, which is why you can't use it for temp control, there simply isn't any appreciable change in resistance to measure with heating.
I'm going to wax pedantic: This would only be true of if you started out with a 1.0 ohm coil at the nominal/reference temperature.
Let's make it simpler:
230°C - 25°C = 205°C temperature rise.
205 * 0.00095 (TCR) * 0.5 ohms = 0.097 ohms (delta-R).
Thus the resistance of a nominal 0.5 ohm coil at 230°C will be 0.597 ohms.
This also shows why SS is a relatively poor choice for TC. You're looking at a very small change in resistance due to its low TCR.
Then there's also the fact that TCR isn't necessarily linear; i.e. TCR itself may vary with temperature. That's why the best TC boards let you input a "curve".
Have I mentioned that I decided I don't need all that complication in my life and went back to vaping mechanical squonkers roughly four years ago?
Yes…missed that tidbit of info, thanks for the correction.
SS does yield a smaller rise in resistance in comparison to other metals such as Titanium or Ni200, but if the device employs the necessary resolution, you can achieve a very functional TC. On the other hand, Ni200 which does have a high TCR value, is inherently low in resistance - the lower the resistance, the less rise in resistance is needed to achieve your goal temperature. Depending on the resistance of the coil, this delta could even be less than SS316L of equivalent geometry.
As for the rise in resistance vs temperature not being linear, we need to know that level detail of the metal we are using in order to benefit from any gains in accuracy – assuming such gains can even be noticed, and of course assuming the device is capable of capitalizing on such details. As per the calculations from Steam Engine, it’s TFR curve vs it’s linear TCR value for SS316L does not yield much of a difference for the typical temperatures we vape at. For Ni200, the difference is much larger. I view Steam calculations as being relatively accurate, but not necessarily a true representation of the metals we are using.
The concept of TCR or the more precise TFR, can be very accurate assuming all factors involved are taken into account. When it comes to vaping, we are dealing with deficiencies and limitations of the devices we use along with unknowns of the metals we employ for coils – at best we can only achieve guesstimates which could be well off from our targets. But that does not mean we can not achieve a preferred vape with functional power modulation to mitigate dry burning.
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Oh! Not to say I understand a lot of this but it gives me a good jumping-off point. From a basic user standpoint let's see if I get the idea correct or even in the same ballpark. So they have these preset metals and if those aren't working for you then you can do the TCR to dial it in even more for more customization or if you're using a metal that they don't have listed but it is a metal that can be used with temperature control you can still use the TCR to get the right performance? I know that you went way past that in your description but I just want to make sure that I I'm not completely off before I try to tackle that second part LOL
Yes. The preset may not be correct to your metal’s true properties, or it may just not give you a satisfying vape. We can then use the manual input method to attempt at achieving a satisfying vape. Not everyone enjoys temperature control and of course we may also be dealing with a poor performing device.
What mod and type of wire are you using? Perhaps others can chime in with some suggestions..
At present it's the Geekvape Nova that I'm using with just basic 26 gauge round wire stainless steel... which it looks like might be my first mistake so I'm going to have to get something else.
What wire would you suggest or what metal rather for getting deeper into temperature control other than just pressing stainless steel LOL
I have other mods as well but most of them are around the same quality I guess as a Nova I don't have anything advanced.
I kind of just bought a selection of cheap mods because of the deeming regulations in May and the flavor bans and all the craziness I just wanted to get a little stockpile going so it was sort of sporadic stuff I got. Heck I don't think it was more than three months ago I was still using an all in one device.
OH Good. I have one of these too so I am listening for any input. I do not really understand it (all the above) but I vape in TCR and just fool around and hope nothing taste's burnt
Yeah that's about where I am to I know that I like the way it works in temperature control and I have played around with the TCR and then I realized I really didn't know what I was doing and maybe I should find out what the heck TCR is versus TC.. I really honestly thought it was probably a stupid question because sometimes I completely forget how the world works and ask something that is so blatantly obvious but this one was a good question. I tried to Google it first and I was getting some wacky answers
Try with the 26awg Stainless – nothing wrong with it unless you do not like it in wattage mode. All wire has its own characteristics which has to play into the user preferences. That said, nothing wrong with experimenting either.
I own the GV Legend but not the Nova. Heard there was improvements made with TC on the Nova over the Legend. I’d try the default SS preset. Set the temperature you would like and adjust the wattage to what you usually vape that coil at and compare how you prefer the TC vape vs wattage making small adjustments to the temperature if needed. Once you reach a preferred temperature, continue to vape to see if the device will scale back power when the wicks are becoming dry. You should easily notice this as both flavour and vapor production will diminish.
If you can't achieve a preferred vape, report your findings.
One thing to stress – the coil MUST be at room temperature when the device first reads it. If the coil is at all warm, it’s resistance will be different and TC will always be off. With the GV Legend and assuming the Nova as well, one has to press the fire button 3 times to be able to adjust and enter TC mode. This can heat the coil. Unscrew the atty, then enter TC mode and give the atomizer a bit of time to cool down to room temp should you have been vaping it just prior. Only a couple of minutes is needed. Then screw it back onto the mod, allowing the device to read the coils resistance.
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