Who honestly prefers the vape from an un-kicked mech?

[TheToxic_jon]

If amps produce wattage.
And wattage means power.
then a vamo,tesla and zmaxx ect. will cap you out on amps(equaling power).
Where as a mech mod will give you the amps that your cell is producing,which is usually higher then a regulated device can put out.
It's pretty easy to get 25 watts from a mech, if your using the right cells.
I'm not trying to talk over peoples heads.
the Moral is, use a mechanical mod if you want a more powerful vape

 

[Oktyabr]

the Moral is, use a mechanical mod if you want a more powerful vape

Yeah, I get ohm's law and all... but at what point does "a more powerful vape" just become hot and nasty? I'm sure a thick, juicy wick that can take the extra power is almost mandatory... isn't it?

 

[ClippinWings]

Found a pick of my prefered coil/wick... figured you'd appreciate it...

Notice I have decent length legs(they are equal, even though it doesn't really look like it from the pic)... That lets me bring the coil out to the edge near the air hole... BUT, as mentioned they are even length and i do have enough wraps on the coil that I avoid the "hot legs" issue.

My only issue with this coil is that being 28awg, it take about 3 seconds to get up to proper vape temp...

not much of an issue LOL

 

[ClippinWings]

Yeah, I get ohm's law and all... but at what point does "a more powerful vape" just become hot and nasty? I'm sure a thick, juicy wick that can take the extra power is almost mandatory... isn't it?

lower gauge wire(thicker) like 28awg takes some time to heat up. Even at like 20+ watts, I don't find it as hot as 32awg at 15watts... at .8 or .9 ohms I get a cooler vape than i do at 1.2ohms on 32awg wire.

It's warm... but not hot...

Lower AWG
More Coils
Thick Wick

Sweet Juicy Clouds of Warm Vapor

 

[TheToxic_jon]

Yeah, I get ohm's law and all... but at what point does "a more powerful vape" just become hot and nasty? I'm sure a thick, juicy wick that can take the extra power is almost mandatory... isn't it?

Gotta have good wicking to the coil, or it will be dry. Personally only thing I rebuild are single coils on drippers and genisis. But it so happens I have a Ithaka tracking number, so I predict some nice dual coil builds. they say the new gg's wick ok, we shall see.

 

[chriscorv58]

I recently have been fascinated by mechanical mods in the last month. First picked up a china gg put a z Atty Universal on it wrapped to 1.3 ohms. Battery drop off wasn't as quick as I would have figured even using small 18350s provari was starting to collect dust. Now I picked up a I hybrid with a .8ohm coil and its vape heaven Clouds of vapor and awesome taste can't get any better. Picked up a juggernaut with both airholes drilled out dual wicks comes out to .4 ohms. 3 sec pulls make me a living dragon flavor is spot on!

 

[Oktyabr]

I recently have been fascinated by mechanical mods in the last month. First picked up a china gg put a z Atty Universal on it wrapped to 1.3 ohms. Battery drop off wasn't as quick as I would have figured even using small 18350s provari was starting to collect dust. Now I picked up a I hybrid with a .8ohm coil and its vape heaven Clouds of vapor and awesome taste can't get any better. Picked up a juggernaut with both airholes drilled out dual wicks comes out to .4 ohms. 3 sec pulls make me a living dragon flavor is spot on!

Nice! Protected or unprotected batteries? Fuse? Shortstop? Thanks!

 

[tc1]

Here to sign in. Depends on device though. With clearos/cartos/standard atomizers I would prefer regulated.

 

[Oktyabr]

Here to sign in. Depends on device though. With clearos/cartos/standard atomizers I would prefer regulated.

So unregulated mech with the right RBA/RDA coil and wick?

And you are the battery expert tc1

Panasonic CGR18650CH's I bought for my Vamo. OK to use in a mech? I plan on buying a fuse or shortstop to go with it.

 

[tc1]

So unregulated mech with the right RBA/RDA coil and wick?

And you are the battery expert tc1

Panasonic CGR18650CH's I bought for my Vamo. OK to use in a mech? I plan on buying a fuse or shortstop to go with it.

They will work just fine. I have a Holocron shortstop and I honestly don't even really use it with my Pannys. They never show signs of stress ... even when I went down to 0.4 ohms. Myvaporstore sells the Holocron shortstop for like $14-$15 ... (ecf5 coupon code brings it down to under $14).

 

[Jimi D.]

After I read this thread, I just had to order a K100 for starters. I own 2 Provari's, and a Buzz Pro. Since RBA's I just need to try lower ohms than .8 Looking forward in trying those 3 second hits Thanks peeps

 

[ClippinWings]

Here to sign in. Depends on device though. With clearos/cartos/standard atomizers I would prefer regulated.

Absolutely.

Vaping anything but a rebuildable in a Mech is a bit of a waste....

Of both the mod and the atomizer.

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[USinchains]

Yeah, I get ohm's law and all... but at what point does "a more powerful vape" just become hot and nasty? I'm sure a thick, juicy wick that can take the extra power is almost mandatory... isn't it?

It's all about air hole position. I was always a 10 watt vapor since 2010, now I'm around 15-17w after my atty's voltage drop. What I find when adjusting the air hole on my dripper is that the vape can be super hot and devoid of vapor, or create mega clouds devoid of flavor and not much heat. With small adjustments in between, I can get the perfect flavor and throat hit along with massive clouds. I have some RBA's that do not have adjustable flow, and they're kind of depressing. SLR is hard to swallow at first, but once you try it on an RBA with 28g, you will see it's not the same as dealing with replaceable cartos etc, the harsh reputation of low res cartos and attys makes SLR hard to believe, but it's just not the same, at all. It's much smoother, and warm rather than harsh. That's my experience, anyway.

The reason I prefer a bare bones mech is summed up in your OP's third paragraph. I'm a techy, too, but I don't feel my vape is the place for it, been there done that, tired of fixing simple things when I need them the most. My hobbies shift. I have a graveyard full of stuff that could use some new solder joints, chips, epoxy etc, but I'm having too much fun making coils and modifying production mechs, now.

 

[ClippinWings]

Oh yeah, Oktyabr... Almost forgot...

Switching to SLR. You'll need to cut your nic.... Maybe dramatically.

I vaped 18mg on SR and LR attys and cartos for over a year...

It makes me physically ill on an SLR atty... Light headed, dizzy, nauseous... Hiccups...

Literally, it only takes a hit or two and like clockwork, about 90 seconds later I wanna die.

I'm happy in the 8-10mg range now.


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[Oktyabr]

Oh yeah, Oktyabr... Almost forgot...

Switching to SLR. You'll need to cut your nic.... Maybe dramatically.

I vaped 18mg on SR and LR attys and cartos for over a year...

It makes me physically ill on an SLR atty... Light headed, dizzy, nauseous... Hiccups...

Literally, it only takes a hit or two and like clockwork, about 90 seconds later I wanna die.

I'm happy in the 8-10mg range now.


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Wow! Thanks! THAT is something I hadn't read here yet but it makes sense. I normally vape 16-18mg but I even notice it with my AGA and A7... I get more vapor production (I've started vaping 50/50 pg-vg too) and end up taking fewer puffs before I get all light headed and stuff. Luckily I try to prepare for a potential FDA moratorium, zombie apocalypse, etc. too and I have 250ml each of both straight PG and straight VG in the juice closet.

 

[USinchains]

I had to drop from 24mg to 12

 

[Oktyabr]

It's all about air hole position. I was always a 10 watt vapor since 2010, now I'm around 15-17w after my atty's voltage drop. What I find when adjusting the air hole on my dripper is that the vape can be super hot and devoid of vapor, or create mega clouds devoid of flavor and not much heat. With small adjustments in between, I can get the perfect flavor and throat hit along with massive clouds. I have some RBA's that do not have adjustable flow, and they're kind of depressing.

Also excellent advice that I had sort of picked up on from reading elsewhere. AGA-T2s are so cheap now I can afford to drill out the hole and use it just for SLR. I already punched my first one from 1mm to 1.5mm and I like it a lot. Other drippers like the Smok RDA are crazy cheap, easy to drill (aluminum) and I've watched videos of some CRAZY SLR modded Octopuses fogging out a whole room in just a few puffs.

 

[Oktyabr]

I had to drop from 24mg to 12

Interesting! You guys dropping on the nic level... If you leave the mech at home and take something like a vivi topped spinner out to the pub are you still comfortable at the SLR levels of nic or do you go up a notch or two?

 

[ClippinWings]

Interesting! You guys dropping on the nic level... If you leave the mech at home and take something like a vivi topped spinner out to the pub are you still comfortable at the SLR levels of nic or do you go up a notch or two?

My mech and rba go everywhere with me.

But that is a very good question.

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[D4rk50ul]

I have had or currently have just about every setup you could imagine, and I prefer Mech mods with sub 1.0ohm coils without any kind of regulation. Currently I'm hooked on my Reo with a 0.8ohm 28awg coil using 2mm silica for wick in a hornet, its far superior to any vape I have had. Regulated devices are great for mass produced cartomizers and atomizers but when it comes to something that can keep up wicking with a SLR coil, they disappoint.

Genesis style atomizers are the same for me, I much prefer a SLR coil on a full mech versus a 1.5ohm+ coil on a variable power device. Batteries tend to have a pretty flat voltage curve and I have no issues with drops in performance as it discharges, the only time I really notice is when I should be swapping in a new one as it drops off dramatically.

Keep in mind that to achieve optimal performance from an RBA/RDA you need to have quality wire/wick and the know how to get it setup correctly.