why are you subohming on a regulated device?

[Stosh]

Well with many of the converters i've seen, they top out around 6v-and-change, so there will have to be some resistance matching to get the wattage range you want.

The 5 or 6 volt converters are a left over effect of the early regulated mods that used a simple buck circuit on a pair of stacked batteries. The battery voltage started at 8.4 volts, regulated down to 6 volts or lower, and once the input batteries dropped to 6 volts - time to recharge. Crude, rude and mildly dangerous, but it was what was available at the time.

The 180 watt mods with three 18650 batteries operation depend on how their input is setup. If the batteries are in series they have about 12 volts to run a buck-boost circuit on to provide the wattage at whatever resistance you like. If it's boosted to 18 volts, you don't need sub-ohm to reach a wattage. Or if the batteries are in parallel you have about 90 amps available for the circuity to boost to as high of a voltage as your wattage preference is without resorting to sub-ohm.

The manner that such a mod might be used depends on how it is designed, and with the amperage and voltage limits. I've seen nothing posted or on any website to clarify these very important specifications and battery configurations....

 

[tj99959]

can we get at least one reason why?

Simplistic reliability.

 

[iamthevoice]

A wise man picks the tool for the occasion rather than attempt to make the tool fit every occasion. Seriously, you guys are almost as bad as the Mac/PC fanboys; if there was truly one better way of doing things, we would all gravitate to it naturally. But last time I checked, that almost never happens (well unless you are talking about PC users abandoning the platform to switch to the better one... KIDDING!)

 

[t2ak]

Do you want to drive a 69 chevelle or an eco friendly electric smart car?

Lol

Its always the Econo box during the week and the hot rod on the weekends!

The Giraffe

 

[t2ak]

The Giraffe

 

[dr g]

The 5 or 6 volt converters are a left over effect of the early regulated mods that used a simple buck circuit on a pair of stacked batteries. The battery voltage started at 8.4 volts, regulated down to 6 volts or lower, and once the input batteries dropped to 6 volts - time to recharge. Crude, rude and mildly dangerous, but it was what was available at the time.

The 180 watt mods with three 18650 batteries operation depend on how their input is setup. If the batteries are in series they have about 12 volts to run a buck-boost circuit on to provide the wattage at whatever resistance you like. If it's boosted to 18 volts, you don't need sub-ohm to reach a wattage. Or if the batteries are in parallel you have about 90 amps available for the circuity to boost to as high of a voltage as your wattage preference is without resorting to sub-ohm.

The manner that such a mod might be used depends on how it is designed, and with the amperage and voltage limits. I've seen nothing posted or on any website to clarify these very important specifications and battery configurations....

Not really cruder than what is out now, the 100+w boxes still run in series, and every one I've seen still requires a <1 ohm load to achieve max wattage. The god mod is extremely unlikely to meet the specs you propose, based on what we know.

 

[readeuler]

I like the main point of this thread, mech vs. regulated is not really the point.

For my VTR (or any VV/VW mod), it'd be nice to know how to minimize current draw to provide better battery life, for a fixed wattage. Minimize is a strong word, so I should probably say "make reasonably small", like 2 or 3 amps.

The answer certainly comes down to finding the right voltage and resistance, and it seems like the strategy is "reasonably high resistance, and reasonably low voltage".

It seems counter-intuitive that you could lower voltage and still attain high power, but it seems true. The hard part is finding realistic values for everything; not using 5 ohm coils, for example.

At any rate, it was fun to think about these things, so thanks OP.

 

[dr g]

I like the main point of this thread, mech vs. regulated is not really the point.

For my VTR (or any VV/VW mod), it'd be nice to know how to minimize current draw to provide better battery life, for a fixed wattage. Minimize is a strong word, so I should probably say "make reasonably small", like 2 or 3 amps.

The answer certainly comes down to finding the right voltage and resistance, and it seems like the strategy is "reasonably high resistance, and reasonably low voltage".

It seems counter-intuitive that you could lower voltage and still attain high power, but it seems true. The hard part is finding realistic values for everything; not using 5 ohm coils, for example.

At any rate, it was fun to think about these things, so thanks OP.

Minimizing amps in the way you seem to be describing can't be done. Your amps in will always be at a baseline the same if the wattage is the same. Gains can be had in making more efficient builds and possibly by building to operate in the most efficient range of the regulator.

 

[olderthandirt]

Come now, we are all vapers.

Join together all you brothers of different mothers and sisters of different misters.
Let is have peace and harmony whilst we vape away the hours on our PV's of choice.

Oh yeah, I can't stand Apple products....... (-;

Entertaining thread!

 

[The Cloud Minder]

no! im really upset. jk all im trying to do is show you how you could improve your setup. yea you can do that but why not increase the resistance and maybe lower your wattage for better battery life. if that and only that setup is what you prefer then good for you, really

this post is more for those people who like i said want to vape 180 watts on a .1 ohm build /QUOTE]

You know how everybody seems to be searching for their Vaping Nirvana? Well, with the setup I described in my last post, 0.7 Ohms @ 30W, with my Plume Veil on my IPV2, I have found mine. Although I must say I pretty much don't have much use for 30-50w. Seriously, what kind of build in that range doesn't scorch your juice?

 

[DaveP]

I don't sub ohm, but if I did (wait, that sounds an old guy in a beer commercial).

If I sub ohm'ed I'd want a high watt device that would shut down and say, "NO, NO, NO!" instead of blowing my cheek out and creating 3rd degree burns on my vaping hand.

We all need to be protected from ourselves. It's much the same reason that people build high powered race cars that pop wheelies and momentarily obscure their view of the track.

 

[Herzeleid14]

100 bucks for a 50 watt device? come on man youre paying for internet you can probably pay for that if you can pay for a mech. even clone vs clone you can get 30 watts for like 60 bucks. MAYBE 20 bucks more than the clone in your hand

I've heard the cheaper clone ones are not to well made, if a good 100W device came down closer to $60, i would probably get one. Also, not like it matters, but the clone in my hand was $25

 

[sonicdsl]

Let's keep this on topic folks. This is in regards to sub-ohming on regulated devices. This is not mech vs. regulated at all.... we have enough of that crap already.


Thank you

 

[edyle]

no! im really upset. jk all im trying to do is show you how you could improve your setup. yea you can do that but why not increase the resistance and maybe lower your wattage for better battery life. if that and only that setup is what you prefer then good for you, really

this post is more for those people who like i said want to vape 180 watts on a .1 ohm build

You know how everybody seems to be searching for their Vaping Nirvana? Well, with the setup I described in my last post, 0.7 Ohms @ 30W, with my Plume Veil on my IPV2, I have found mine. Although I must say I pretty much don't have much use for 30-50w. Seriously, what kind of build in that range doesn't scorch your juice?

24 gauge coils I expect

 

[KurrptSenate]

I sub-ohm down to about .5Ω for my OKR device. This is so I can achieve anywhere from 50 - 65W depending on my mood.

 

[FatherTime]

ohms law is absolute, batteries have a fixed watt hour capacity. if you noticed anything to the contrary, i can tell you 100%, you noticed wrong or youre just talking out of your poop hole

perhaps you meant usable battery life?

wrong. thats like saying if you vape on a mech at .2 ohms the battery will last as long as 2.0 ohms.

I like the main point of this thread, mech vs. regulated is not really the point.

For my VTR (or any VV/VW mod), it'd be nice to know how to minimize current draw to provide better battery life, for a fixed wattage. Minimize is a strong word, so I should probably say "make reasonably small", like 2 or 3 amps.

The answer certainly comes down to finding the right voltage and resistance, and it seems like the strategy is "reasonably high resistance, and reasonably low voltage".

It seems counter-intuitive that you could lower voltage and still attain high power, but it seems true. The hard part is finding realistic values for everything; not using 5 ohm coils, for example.

At any rate, it was fun to think about these things, so thanks OP.

thank you and youre welcome

no! im really upset. jk all im trying to do is show you how you could improve your setup. yea you can do that but why not increase the resistance and maybe lower your wattage for better battery life. if that and only that setup is what you prefer then good for you, really

this post is more for those people who like i said want to vape 180 watts on a .1 ohm build /QUOTE]

You know how everybody seems to be searching for their Vaping Nirvana? Well, with the setup I described in my last post, 0.7 Ohms @ 30W, with my Plume Veil on my IPV2, I have found mine. Although I must say I pretty much don't have much use for 30-50w. Seriously, what kind of build in that range doesn't scorch your juice?

scorch my juice? im not even sure what that means. you mean scorch my lungs? 50 watts on a 1.4 ohm build seems good for me. ive heard people say that higher watts scorcs juice. what exactly does that mean though? all the juice ive had has worked fine at high temps. what juice do you use?

 

[FatherTime]

24 gauge coils I expect

please explain scorching juice lol. i use 24 to 28 depending on what build im using and ive never had flaming juice or whatever that means

 

[eratikmind]

Hahaha . . . First there were Grammar Nazis. Now, we have Vaping Nazis.

Too much nic in the mix, perhaps?

 

[The Cloud Minder]

scorch my juice? im not even sure what that means. you mean scorch my lungs? 50 watts on a 1.4 ohm build seems good for me. ive heard people say that higher watts scorcs juice. what exactly does that mean though? all the juice ive had has worked fine at high temps. what juice do you use?

Well yeah, sorry for my imprecision, more scorch your lungs than your juice, but kinda the juice too. I originally tried out the juice I'm using now on my 0.7 Ohm dual coil, at first 50W, then at 40W and it was like inhaling flaming alcohol. It tasted like it was burning like alcohol fumes and seared my lungs directly into a coughing fit.

 

[readeuler]

Minimizing amps in the way you seem to be describing can't be done. Your amps in will always be at a baseline the same if the wattage is the same. Gains can be had in making more efficient builds and possibly by building to operate in the most efficient range of the regulator.

Yes, you're right. I deluded myself into thinking we had more than two degrees of freedom, thinking only about the quantities of voltage, current, resistance, and power.

Dammit, physics!