why dont mech mods burn juices?

[Tbev]

What atty are you using?

With a mechanical, you build the coils to t+the resistance you want, based on your desired vape, your build will be dependent upon your Airflow and more importantly the specs on the battery, and you wick accordingly. Pm me if you have any questions, it's best to ask n research b4 buying, you'll save a lot of money and have better results.

 

[B1sh0p]

It's not about the mod, it's the topper. When pushing higher watts, the topper needs to wick efficiently. Clearomizers are incapable of wicking enough.

 

[SleeZy]

It's not about the mod, it's the topper. When pushing higher watts, the topper needs to wick efficiently. Clearomizers are incapable of wicking enough.

This is what i was about to say.
In regular clearos such as evod / protanks / aero etc even though i rebuild them and using cotton, i still can't go that high without burning the juice.

However in my kayfun for example running at 1ohm currently i've yet to burn any juice.
Only issue i would have(with some juices) is slow wicking and getting dryhits and that's due poor juice channels (clone)

Clearos got a limited space for the coils and juice flow that's why it's burning to easily at higher wattage. A dripper or tank like kayfun will not burn the juices as easily. Though it can still happen, some juices can't handle higher wattages.
I'm mostly vaping at 17w and i've yet to come across a juice that burns at that. (In a kayfun/dripper)
But the same juice will burn in a clearo near 10w. They can't supply enough juice/airflow to keep to coils cooled down.

If you're going to use regular clearos and not rebuild i'd recommend a vw/vv mod instead of a mech mod.
Mech mods are almost made to be used with RBAs, you can use clearos but you won't get the performance you're seeking.

 

[Tbev]

Sleezy your not having luck with. Clearos BC they are junk. Your having dry hits with your kf Clone BC your using too much cotton, that's an example of a wicking problem. 99% chance I'm right, although I have heard of some clones having leftover material, metal chunks but they are in the air hole not the channels, you don't need to widen deepen your channels you need less cotton.

Right about the Mech n Clearos for sure bud.

Junk the Clearos and figure out what you want to move up too. Here to help.

 

[niczgreat]

With respect to all.
A Mechanical Reo Grand with a Reomizer 2 is to the Mechanicals what a Provari is to the VV World.

Reo Grande from Reosmods.com is a bottom feeder. It's the same as dripping except you squeeze the liquid up from the bottom.
Before every drag I squonk and it's a moist inhale. With Rayon Wick I've had no dry hits.

I have the Reo in Tumbled Aluminum, the exterior is almost indestructible. For $25.00 you buy a rebuild kit and every once in awhile you just gut the APV and you have a new Unit. So the initial investment is high, but the TCO [Total Cost of Ownership] over time is low.

The new Reos are improved and better resistance then the old one, which I found unusable.

 

[SleeZy]

Sleezy your not having luck with. Clearos BC they are junk. Your having dry hits with your kf Clone BC your using too much cotton, that's an example of a wicking problem. 99% chance I'm right, although I have heard of some clones having leftover material, metal chunks but they are in the air hole not the channels, you don't need to widen deepen your channels you need less cotton.

Right about the Mech n Clearos for sure bud.

Junk the Clearos and figure out what you want to move up too. Here to help.

Na it's not the wicking, well in a way it is. Not good enough juice flow on that particular clone.
All my 50/50 blends work without problems but a 30/70vg will not wick good enough due realy small juice channels. It's due poor machining on this one clone.

 

[dielonnn]

Thanks guys I think my worries have been put to rest and am really looking foward to stepping up in the vape game here.

I cant wait for that flavor to just punch me right in the teeth haha

 

[TBCAmor]

I didn't read any of the other posts by the answer is wicking, Airflow and the lack of it, lots of people think it's cool to wrap crazy coils but reality is that wicking is the real skill.

So true. I had coils down almost immediately. They aren't always beautiful, but some have been, and I can usually get my desired ohms on first attempt. Now, as said, wicking is another story, I get one way down perfect, then my next build the same wicking type I'll get dry hits at first. It's always too much wick, for me usually getting choked by the coil, resulting in some "after burn" of just dry cotton. I almost need to prime it, which shouldn't be with a kayfun. Ironically, too, I will have a solid build that does this after a few days, sometimes. Wicking, though, is key, and probably the most difficult thing on a kayfun, though not really that hard.

 

[Tbev]

Besides a dripper the kf is probably one of the easiest things to wick, your right your using too much cotton, or wick, I recommend using rayon, it's leaps n bounds better than anything else.
TBCA you might want to use smaller diameter coils, this will force you to use less wick, or just use less wick. When people start talking about drilling channels or pg/vg ratio causing wicking problems you'd be best served to stop listening.

Check out the rayon thread if you send me a self addressed envelope vg I'll send you some to try. You will then be sold on rayon.

 

[Tbev]

With respect to all.
A Mechanical Reo Grand with a Reomizer 2 is to the Mechanicals what a Provari is to the VV World.

Reo Grande from Reosmods.com is a bottom feeder. It's the same as dripping except you squeeze the liquid up from the bottom.
Before every drag I squonk and it's a moist inhale. With Rayon Wick I've had no dry hits.

I have the Reo in Tumbled Aluminum, the exterior is almost indestructible. For $25.00 you buy a rebuild kit and every once in awhile you just gut the APV and you have a new Unit. So the initial investment is high, but the TCO [Total Cost of Ownership] over time is low.

The new Reos are improved and better resistance then the old one, which I found unusable.

This is fabulous advice, listen to this man! Bottom feeders are as good as it gets!

 

[anumber1]

Besides a dripper the kf is probably one of the easiest things to wick, your right your using too much cotton, or wick, I recommend using rayon, it's leaps n bounds better than anything else.
TBCA you might want to use smaller diameter coils, this will force you to use less wick, or just use less wick. When people start talking about drilling channels or pg/vg ratio causing wicking problems you'd be best served to stop listening.

Check out the rayon thread if you send me a self addressed envelope vg I'll send you some to try. You will then be sold on rayon.

Where did you find rayon for wicking?

Is there a craft store option? Say Michael's or Hobby Lobby?

 

[Tbev]

Sally's beauty supply, it's called cellucotton it's a blue n white big box, the number on the box, there are many different ones, that you want is 44060 or 44043, it's 500ft for like 12 bucks. Enough to share and use for a lifetime.

 

[Kracker]

Sally's beauty supply, it's called cellucotton it's a blue n white big box, the number on the box, there are many different ones, that you want is 44060 or 44043, it's 500ft for like 12 bucks. Enough to share and use for a lifetime.

Is it like cotton but without the lumps in it ? That's where I get my problems, I'll get the wick through the coil (I go pretty small in diameter) and then it will get stuck so I'll thin it out, then it will pull apart START OVER !! LoL

 

[niczgreat]

I'm using the Celucotton from Sally's beauty supply. Be careful and make sure the box says Rayon on it as they sell a cotton version too.

It's a little sturdier then cotton and comes out in a tube like shape all 500 feet. sigh...

I cut it lengthwise close to the width I require. Then I pull it a little longer to the proper width and roll it. Once I started handling it that way, I found it easier to work with then cotton.

It won't pull apart as easily.

 

[TBCAmor]

Besides a dripper the kf is probably one of the easiest things to wick, your right your using too much cotton, or wick, I recommend using rayon, it's leaps n bounds better than anything else.
TBCA you might want to use smaller diameter coils, this will force you to use less wick, or just use less wick. When people start talking about drilling channels or pg/vg ratio causing wicking problems you'd be best served to stop listening.

Check out the rayon thread if you send me a self addressed envelope vg I'll send you some to try. You will then be sold on rayon.

Thanks for the advice and offer! I've read a bit about rayon, and I'm intrigued, though I need to read more, since rayon kinda scares me to be wicking with. Probably unfounded, I just wanna research what it's made of more.

As far as coils, I use a tiny 1/16th bit, or sometimes a jewelers screwdriver to wrap, so they are damn small. I think at least. I built yesterday, and got it down. It's just a fine line for me, since I want the ends of cotton fluffy, and don't wanna roll it to fit the coil, it will expand and choke. I did well on my recent two builds, though. Mastering getting the wick to pull freely a bit back and forth in the coil with out disturbing it has made the difference. I was rolling tight my cotton to thread the wick before, and that makes it expand with juice, and choke, thus some afterburn as I call it.

Been at it with kayfuns for about 2 months, and I got em down pretty well, just still have the occasional gremlin. That's why I read, and post. I'm gonna order some kanthal in around 24 gauge maybe 26, since I use 30 now, and 6-7 wraps is 1.2 ohms for me. Especially with my dripper I can't build low enough with 30 g, not enough wraps, and too small a coil. I can also get more surface area on my 1.2 coils, can't hurt to experiment on how that works out.

 

[edyle]

I was looking into getting a mech mod but a few things have me wary

1 is if im using a vv right now a vision spinner 2 I am constantly having to change my voltage depending on my juice im using, some taste burnt at lower volatages than other, for ex. My pinapple I can vape at 4.3 volt on a 2.2ohm but if I vape my apple pie at that it taste burnt I gotta bring it down to like 3.5

If I have a mech mod wouldnt I have to change my coil everytime I change juices to not get a burnt taste bc they pretty much run at the same volatage all the time ?

I really wana get a mech mod clone bc of there price but im worried about dealing with burnt taste all the time, how do people avoid this problem?

Get a kick module to use with the mech.

For vaping on a tight budget, a mech with a kick is the way to go.

A full nemesis with all the tubes will allow you to use a kick and a regular 18650 battery.
And if the kick has some problem, you reconfigure the tubes and go straight, without the kick.
If you get the vv kick and set it for 3.7 volts, it's like a big version of an ego battery regulated.

 

[Tbev]

Kick is a crutch, your having wicking problems, that's the hardest part of rebuilding, if your Airflow and wicks are right you'll be fine, no burning juice and great vape.

Rayon has been tested and researched extensively, I use it in everything, it also works so much better it will give you more room for error in wicking.