Why is "tootle puffing" a bad thing.. or is it?

[VNeil]

I build my own coils and make my own juice.but still do not like sub-ohming. I have only found one flavor that taste good in my orchids (0.85 ohm build) everything else taste too harsh and gives much better flavor in a cooler tank.sub-ohming is just one style of vaping and is not popular with everyone. those of us that are cool do not have to try to look cool

I agree with that, and with regulated mods there isn't that much need to go subohm. In principle you can put 50W into a 2 ohm build if your mod will go to 10V, for example. Just to illustrate a point.

What I have found though, I think, is that two coils of the same wire build, resistance, and with the same voltage applied as a single coil, will just put out twice as much vape, and therefore twice as much flavor. Without having to crank up the power through a single coil resulting in what you too see as a harsh vape. I power up to optimum flavor. I have no numerical targets I'm trying to hit, in terms of power or coil resistance. I don't build low ohm coils for bragging rights, nor do I cloud chase.

I was doing single coil builds in my Provari, limited to about 14W, realistically about 12-13W. When I went to a 50W mod, I ended up vaping the same coils, but as dual coil RDA builds at 25W and basically got twice the flavor, with the same characteristic because I was using the same coils and running the same 12W through each coil. So I sort of slid into subohming indirectly. I have not built below 0.5R (1R each coil in a dual).

My Subtank Mini with RBA deck puts out great flavor, using the factory installed 0.5R coil. And I love the flavor and the quality of my high VG (about 30P/70G) DIY juices. So I may stay with that for that atty just because it worked so well out of the box. So again sort of fell into subohming by accident.

I also build STMs to 1.2 ohm or higher for use in my Provaris. I can run those at higher power in my 50W mod, and I'm not sure if I've seen a clear difference yet between the 0.5R and 1.2R builds, keeping power the same. But it's hard to keep everything else identical because for example I've modified the old RBA decks two different ways.

 

[GeorgeS]

I'm actually working on that now, using a Provari and a Subtank Mini with a 1.9-2.0 ohm coil on the RBA deck. Not for regular use, but for stealth vaping in bars and in other public places. I think it needs a comprehensive plan that includes low power and the right juice. I'm playing with unflavored 45/45/10, hoping the distilled water cuts the clouds down further. I think it does? But I've heard differing opinions on that.

Personally I can' really tell the difference in "the cloud" that 100% VG produces vs 95/5 or 90/10 VG/H2O, what I can say is that I think the nicotine is more effective with H2O added than without it. (the 'throat hit' is unaffected by the H20)

Having 'cut my teeth' on Aspire Nautilus tanks, my juices still have some H2O content.

 

[VNeil]

Personally I can' really tell the difference in "the cloud" that 100% VG produces vs 95/5 or 90/10 VG/H2O, what I can say is that I think the nicotine is more effective with H2O added than without it. (the 'throat hit' is unaffected by the H20)

Having 'cut my teeth' on Aspire Nautilus tanks, my juices still have some H2O content.

I still need to seriously compare 100% VG against a 10% or so distilled water dilution. I always do that in a dripper so I don't really need the water for wicking. When I do that I'm running about 40W and only about 1mg of nic now. My usual is 3mg in a subtank mini. There may be some placebo affect for me when I vape almost pure VG

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Thanks! I note than not one mod Liked my post. I know where my marketing efforts need to be directed

Can't discuss humor drugs in our ejuice on here.

 

[mauricem00]

I agree with that, and with regulated mods there isn't that much need to go subohm. In principle you can put 50W into a 2 ohm build if your mod will go to 10V, for example. Just to illustrate a point.

What I have found though, I think, is that two coils of the same wire build, resistance, and with the same voltage applied as a single coil, will just put out twice as much vape, and therefore twice as much flavor. Without having to crank up the power through a single coil resulting in what you too see as a harsh vape. I power up to optimum flavor. I have no numerical targets I'm trying to hit, in terms of power or coil resistance. I don't build low ohm coils for bragging rights, nor do I cloud chase.

I was doing single coil builds in my Provari, limited to about 14W, realistically about 12-13W. When I went to a 50W mod, I ended up vaping the same coils, but as dual coil RDA builds at 25W and basically got twice the flavor, with the same characteristic because I was using the same coils and running the same 12W through each coil. So I sort of slid into subohming indirectly. I have not built below 0.5R (1R each coil in a dual).

My Subtank Mini with RBA deck puts out great flavor, using the factory installed 0.5R coil. And I love the flavor and the quality of my high VG (about 30P/70G) DIY juices. So I may stay with that for that atty just because it worked so well out of the box. So again sort of fell into subohming by accident.

I also build STMs to 1.2 ohm or higher for use in my Provaris. I can run those at higher power in my 50W mod, and I'm not sure if I've seen a clear difference yet between the 0.5R and 1.2R builds, keeping power the same. But it's hard to keep everything else identical because for example I've modified the old RBA decks two different ways.

for a given amount of power you would need a larger diameter wire to get the same heat flux but if the coils are properly designed a single coil should produce the same amount of vapor as 2 smaller coils.I have never run more than 15 watts and find that 10 watts in my EK V3 or kayfun gives me a very satisfying vape. some of my flavors like root beer float and strawberry cream actually taste best at 5 watts in my protank 2 . I see no difference between running a sub ohm coil on a mechanical mod and a 1.2 ohm coil at the same power level with a regulated mod.if the heat flux and surface area are the same the operating temperature would be the same.I simply prefer a cool vape and MTL hits and this does not require a massive amount of power.I think others share this preference and it does not make us inferior as some cloud chasers at the local vape shop seem to think.

 

[Thrasher]

Resistance is futile.







I never try to go to extremes or promote one way over another. But im sitting in the bar last night fogging out 1/2 the place when another vapor goes holy sh.. look at that cloud................


Turns out while I thought I was pretty low end, watching them vape i realize im the cloud chaser everyone talks about lol, glad no one really cares around here.


Who cares what anyone thinks of your preferred style. All this high voltage, subtank crap will run its coarse eventually, and I bet half of the chasers who never smoked actually move on from vaping once the fad wears down.

Enjoy your vape and ignore the dude bros who didn't even vape till it was cool to "chuck clouds"

 

[Robert Cromwell]

If < 1

 

[suprtrkr]

Oh dear... what's wrong with the Provari?? I just bought one a few days ago. It's so shiny and pretty and has dragons on it. You can see what my priorities are.

Nothing wrong with that mod. The people who like them, love them. But for those who don't happen to be Tootle Puffers, they're a bit thin. AFAIK, they don't make one above 15 watts. It's a great mod, a Tootle Puffer's dream, even. American made and from a company who stands behind their work and, wonder of wonders, actually offers factory service so you can get it fixed if it does break, which doesn't happen often. I also think there are some who no longer care for some of the older ones as they are Variable Voltage, although ProVape is offering a VW machine this year I know. I'll tell you what: if they had one in the 40 watt range and with a TC chip, I'd be in line to buy one myself.

 

[VNeil]

Nothing wrong with that mod. The people who like them, love them. But for those who don't happen to be Tootle Puffers, they're a bit thin. AFAIK, they don't make one above 15 watts....

Just for accuracy, the Provari P3 goes to 20W. The others to 14W.

 

[suprtrkr]

Just for accuracy, the Provari P3 goes to 20W. The others to 14W.

TY, I stand corrected. I pinged the website a few days ago, and must have mis-remembered.

 

[VNeil]

I also think there are some who no longer care for some of the older ones as they are Variable Voltage, although ProVape is offering a VW machine this year I know.

Having used two of the VV models for over 6 months, the "problem" I have with the Provari VV is that if you set it above the 14W limit it errors out. That means you either have to incrementally reduce it or do higher math in your head to compute the voltage that will get you near 14W (but not over it). Or work it out on a spreadsheet, which is what I do if I happen to be at a computer at the time. If you have different toppers with different resistances it can be tough to keep track of all that. What I should do is print out a chart of voltage/resistance at 14W and stick it in my wallet I guess

I do have a very rough idea in my head of what a 1.2 ohm coil can be run at verses a 1.8 ohm, for example.

It isn't a huge hassle, but it is not nearly as convenient as a VW mod where you just dial it up to the top limit of the mod (if it has a lowish upper limit). I like my Provaris but I also like my newer box mods better because they are easier to use. But I know my Provaris will always work and will take a lot of abuse that other mods won't. And if they do fail they can be fixed, where many other mods just get thrown out if something simple like a fire button or 510 connection fails.

 

[suprtrkr]

Having used two of the VV models for over 6 months, the "problem" I have with the Provari VV is that if you set it above the 14W limit it errors out. That means you either have to incrementally reduce it or do higher math in your head to compute the voltage that will get you near 14W (but not over it). Or work it out on a spreadsheet, which is what I do if I happen to be at a computer at the time. If you have different toppers with different resistances it can be tough to keep track of all that. What I should do is print out a chart of voltage/resistance at 14W and stick it in my wallet I guess

I do have a very rough idea in my head of what a 1.2 ohm coil can be run at verses a 1.8 ohm, for example.

It isn't a huge hassle, but it is not nearly as convenient as a VW mod where you just dial it up to the top limit of the mod (if it has a lowish upper limit). I like my Provaris but I also like my newer box mods better because they are easier to use. But I know my Provaris will always work and will take a lot of abuse that other mods won't. And if they do fail they can be fixed, where many other mods just get thrown out if something simple like a fire button or 510 connection fails.

I tend to agree, actually. THere's nothing wrong with doing it that way-- I'm a mech modder, I do it all the time-- but VW is a good bit more convenient.

 

[AndriaD]

This discussion brings to mind the age old question:

"why buy a 'sports car' to drive around town at the speed limit?"

along with the timeless answer:

"because we can."

At the end of the day in my mind: heat is what produces vapor, larger coils have more surface area (to potentially vaporize more juice) and some folks like a 'tight draw' while others like a more unrestricted draw.

I suppose a 1.8ohm coil could fit in an RTA and the air control turned down to emulate a Aspire Nautilus (or other tanks in that classification). The user benefits from being able to replace the wick and coil without the $1-4 cost the local B&M vape shops are charging.

Winner winner chicken dinner! That's EXACTLY the way I vape, and exactly WHY I started building coils, so I wouldn't be at the financial mercy of vendors, or at the mercy of the USPS in bringing them to me.

The other day I was poking one of my coils, because the cotton was sticking to one of the legs... well doofus me broke the leg, so I had to replace the coil -- if that had been a "replacement coil", it would have cost me money. Since I build my own, it cost me 10 minutes.

Andria

 

[Belhade]

I suppose a 1.8ohm coil could fit in an RTA and the air control turned down to emulate a Aspire Nautilus (or other tanks in that classification). The user benefits from being able to replace the wick and coil without the $1-4 cost the local B&M vape shops are charging.

That's what I'm on right now, actually. Well, it's currently reading 1.7ohm on the Sigelei mini; 28g Kanthal microcoil in a Big Buddha mini RTA at 10-12 watts. One air hole is semi-permanently closed off (a screw got pushed in too far and won't thread out) and the other is half-way closed. It's airier than my modded EVODs, and even slightly more than a Protank-2, but not by much. I take long, slow drags and barely inhale.