The graphs have 2 different slopes because you have 2 different starting resistances.
WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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The graphs have 2 different slopes because you have 2 different starting resistances.
The TCR is different. Step away from thinking about individual coils and their singular TCR. Putting them in parallel changes the net TCR of the circuit.
If the TCR was the same then parallel coils would fire and be accurate like a single coil with NO changes to the mod. I hope we can agree that this is not true? Right?
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If the TCR was the same then parallel coils would fire and be accurate like a single coil with NO changes to the mod. I hope we can agree that this is not true? Right?
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The tcr is a physical property of the wire. You can't change it.
Not true. The circuit acts differently. If the parallel circuit fit the TCR model of the single coil TCR then the resistance increase across the temperature range would be the same.
Doesn't matter where you start.
If that was the case then how come a 0.1 and a 0.15 (single) coil vape just the same once locked into the atty? Because the resistance increase is the same from ambient to x temperature.
However a parallel circuit will increase about 1/2 TCR per deg C.
Total circuit TCR is not equal to individual wire TCR.
Stop thinking of one wire. You must think of the entire circuit.
Define Total circuit TCR, sounds like something you made up.
This is a great way to say it.
Yup. I totally get it now. Sorry for being so thick-headed before.
So, a single wire at .17 ohms is going to get hotter (larger Heat Flux) than each individual coil of a dual .17 build -- energy input to the atty being the same between the two builds (which the mod sees as the same because the net resistance is the same).
Steam Engine is showing this to be true via its heat flux calculation (when comparing between dual and single builds with the same final resistance).
Where is that same wattage going between the two builds (single and dual)? It's being conserved, right?
So the dual coils, combined, if measured from a Flir, would still average to the same temp (or energy output) as the single coil?
Back to mod features to solve these challenges: it seems the "dual coil" setting that some mods have is an elegant solution, after all.
Custom TCR values would get the job, too. But, ironically, that's now seeming like the more kludgey solution (but one I'd rather have, as it's more flexible).
It would be nice to have custom TCR values AND a dual coil setting.
What's strange to me is that I'd expect this parallel "net TCR of the circuit change" problem (for mods that don't adjust for it) to be a much bigger accuracy issue than the inaccuracy of a single value TCR style mod, and yet, it doesn't seem to be.
Because in that test I did where I raised the base resistance, the RX200 got accurate again. Even with dual coils (and the mod not understanding the concept of dual coils).
So, it must be a more subtle thing? And by subtle I mean throwing temp off by maybe only 30 degrees max, or so?
In other words, what's the biggest problem to solve, the linear TCR problem, or the accounting for dual coils problem?
SCIENCE
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Combine two 1 ohm resistors in parallel. The resistance of each of the resistors are 1 ohm. Yes?
However since the resistors are in parallel the total circuit resistance will be 0.5 ohms. Didn't change the resistors, but did change the resistance that the mod sees = total circuit resistance.
Same goes for TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance). The TCR of each coil is say 0.006 for ni200. You combine those coils in parallel and the total TCR of that circuit will not be 0.006. You haven't changed the properties of the wire you have changed the resistance properties of the circuit as a whole. You change how the resistance increases or decreases with temperature you have effectively changed the TCR of the circuit.
This is why the ni200 setting on any fixed TCR mod will not work properly and accurately with parallel coils. Maybe with the exception of twisted Kanthal and any other TCR wire as Kanthal's TCR is nearly 0 and doesn't affect the entire circuit resistance and thus the circuit TCR when it is heated within the normal vape range.
The is a ton of additional wire information here.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
However since the resistors are in parallel the total circuit resistance will be 0.5 ohms. Didn't change the resistors, but did change the resistance that the mod sees = total circuit resistance.
Same goes for TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance). The TCR of each coil is say 0.006 for ni200. You combine those coils in parallel and the total TCR of that circuit will not be 0.006. You haven't changed the properties of the wire you have changed the resistance properties of the circuit as a whole. You change how the resistance increases or decreases with temperature you have effectively changed the TCR of the circuit.
This is why the ni200 setting on any fixed TCR mod will not work properly and accurately with parallel coils. Maybe with the exception of twisted Kanthal and any other TCR wire as Kanthal's TCR is nearly 0 and doesn't affect the entire circuit resistance and thus the circuit TCR when it is heated within the normal vape range.
The is a ton of additional wire information here.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Congrats!Got my Rx200 in today and love it
I had my two for a couple weeks and are the best mods I've vaped in a long time...also just peeled the protective film off the screens and now they are twice as bright, easy to read even in sunlight...[emoji41]
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Ok been busy for a few days and have not been keeping up. I have a crius on my rx. I run 30g ni and it is a dc only deck. All my build come out between .1 to .13. I run 55w and 470f all day with no issues.
Now temp protection will display but only for a split second and doesn't seem to really affect vape. I chalked it up to it displays when pulsing?
I get all the arguments with resistance of dc versus sc etc... but mine seems to be working fine.
Now temp protection will display but only for a split second and doesn't seem to really affect vape. I chalked it up to it displays when pulsing?
I get all the arguments with resistance of dc versus sc etc... but mine seems to be working fine.
Lol, I didn't even realize there was a protective film on it, been using it for a couple weeks now.Congrats!
I had my two for a couple weeks and are the best mods I've vaped in a long time...also just peeled the protective film off the screens and now they are twice as bright, easy to read even in sunlight...[emoji41]
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Neither did I till I learned about it on another forum..lol
I started at a corner with a fingernail and sure enough it peeled right off, lolol
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Temp protection means that power has been throttled to keep from exceeding the set temp value. Thing of it like hitting a revlimiter.Ok been busy for a few days and have not been keeping up. I have a crius on my rx. I run 30g ni and it is a dc only deck. All my build come out between .1 to .13. I run 55w and 470f all day with no issues.
Now temp protection will display but only for a split second and doesn't seem to really affect vape. I chalked it up to it displays when pulsing?
I get all the arguments with resistance of dc versus sc etc... but mine seems to be working fine.
The TC mods that I have vaped felt no different vape wise if it hit temp protection every so often during a draw. Only way I could tell if it was in temp protection was to look in the mirror (unless I was fully dry).
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smacksy,
Thanks... never would have known if not for your post.
That said it was the hardest ever to get off screen protector I have ever seen. It took me about 15 minutes to get an edge up so I could peal it off.
NP!! Glad I was able to help!
Yeah, I guess I was lucky...it took about two minutes on mine..enjoying seeing the screen so bright without squinting is defintely a blessing...lol
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Yeah, I guess I was lucky...it took about two minutes on mine..enjoying seeing the screen so bright without squinting is defintely a blessing...lol
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Normally I can pull those things off by using some clear package tape. Stick the tape on and then pull but this sucker wouldn't budge. I was almost starting to think mine didn't have a protector on it. Then after picking at it I was able to get a little separation in one corner enough to tell that it was a protector which gave me the nerve to just go for it.
PS - the extra brightness is nice!
No I get that it was more in reference to the discussion how the tc didn't work on dc tanks from earlier. Haven't tried ti on mine yet, think I will tomorrow.
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