Thinking about this a couple things to try come to mind. 1) Install the cap very slowly, 2) start the cap a couple turns then turn it over then finish tightening. I'll have to see what that does.
Wotofo Serpent Mini
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And, did you give it a go or not?
Mine wasn't leaking after all but I had to put it down again because of the heat unfortunately. I need to get some thinner wire and try a 1+ ohm coil maybe.
Any trouble with the 28g and the hold-downs?
I've got that sample of 430 to try and it's the same gauge.
It's floppy stuff, I don't expect it'd stand up to spanning the Bachelor's leg holes and I'm not in an rda mood. More RTAs coming next week though, I just don't own that many now.
(A pox on all my rba heads when I've got RTAs instead.)
I've been building it with 28g 316SS without any issues. I haven't used 403 so it could be different.
I've been wrapping the coil clockwise like normal then bending the legs out before mounting it without having any fuss getting it secured. The legs on the top made it harder for me personally.
No, I went with the WoToFo* approved technique... coil above the legs, rolled lefty.
And I suffered a sleep deprivation screw up between researching the 430's resistance and when I rolled the coil. I went up a size in ID to 3.5 (I think that's what happened) and instead of ~ 0.8 I got 1.1.
Works fine and it's back on the Pico where the higher TCR will do the most good.
Or rather... any of the JTechs. I'll be trying them out in the coming days.
Which led me to an unfortunate discovery about my previous comment about the AFC ring.
But that's for the next post...
* I guess you can't abbreviate WoToFo here. Nor mention an alternate name for a rooster.
All these weeks... the Lil' Serpent has lived exclusively on the Pico.
I wanted to graph the new 430 SS so I moved it to three DNAs, one of which it wouldn't fire on.
That mod also has an issue fully seating my 'Mizer so I'd guess it's a combo of the 510 socket and the various attys' 510 pin length.
However...
I found that on the other two DNAs... it sat tight enough that the AFC ring was locked in place.
So I was mistaken... if you have a locked one, try it on a different mod if you can.
Not saying there's a solution, it's just another clue to the problem.
I wanted to graph the new 430 SS so I moved it to three DNAs, one of which it wouldn't fire on.
That mod also has an issue fully seating my 'Mizer so I'd guess it's a combo of the 510 socket and the various attys' 510 pin length.
However...
I found that on the other two DNAs... it sat tight enough that the AFC ring was locked in place.
So I was mistaken... if you have a locked one, try it on a different mod if you can.
Not saying there's a solution, it's just another clue to the problem.
I'm not sure I understand where you're bending the legs.
Right side up "Righty" would have the legs pointing away from the tie-downs. Right?
I'm not sure I understand where you're bending the legs.
Right side up "Righty" would have the legs pointing away from the tie-downs. Right?
I realized I had no idea how to explain what I was talking about so I snapped a quick pic. The top is the clockwise wrapped coil with bent ends I was talking about. The bottom is the counter-clockwise coil that comes with the serpent mini. Bending the legs allows the coil to mount nicely but sits a bit higher off the deck if that matters to you.
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I tried one of the included coils with mine and always had a little seepage around the AFC ring.
I went with a premade fused Clapton with a id of 2.5.
No seepage at all using 30/70 juice and getting a great vape on my IPV D3 at 38 watts.
Hopes this helps someone having problems with seepage.
I went with a premade fused Clapton with a id of 2.5.
No seepage at all using 30/70 juice and getting a great vape on my IPV D3 at 38 watts.
Hopes this helps someone having problems with seepage.
No, I went with the WoToFo* approved technique... coil above the legs, rolled lefty.
And I suffered a sleep deprivation screw up between researching the 430's resistance and when I rolled the coil. I went up a size in ID to 3.5 (I think that's what happened) and instead of ~ 0.8 I got 1.1.
Works fine and it's back on the Pico where the higher TCR will do the most good.
Or rather... any of the JTechs. I'll be trying them out in the coming days.
Which led me to an unfortunate discovery about my previous comment about the AFC ring.
But that's for the next post...
* I guess you can't abbreviate WoToFo here. Nor mention an alternate name for a rooster.
I only put the coil legs on top because I tend to use a longer coil then most (8 to ten wraps & spaced is where I'm usually at), this way it's just easier to install them if you need to bend the legs in an awkward position to get them to the posts.
So does it feel like a cooler vape with the higher resistance or doesn't it make a difference at all, and what is your preferred temp by the way?
I don't have a mod that does TCR just yet, but there is one (also a JT) on the way. Hopefully it'll get here next week. I haven't seen any 410 or 430 available yet though, but I have some 26 and 28g 316L on the way to try something different than titanium for a change. Where did you get yours from?
Haha, I'm surprised SM still works then. I don't really understand the family friendly rule to be honest. I mean, this should be an all adult forum anyways shouldn't it, since vaping is a 18+ activity?
Different forums have different lists in their Nanny Filters but I've never asked which are maybe included with the forum software and which admin staff have customized the list.
Not to mention there are some hilarious US/UK language differences using the same word.
"Fanny Pack" anyone?
I got my 316 from Unkamen (24g & 26g) though they have a good selection of sizes and damn good pricing. But only 28g for the 430. In fact... I still haven't stumbled across any other gauge of 430.
Temp preference is funny. I'm coming off of (and may return to) a long period of using C in TC.
Never had any cooking appliances in C so anything up around a couple hundred degrees is meaningless. It kept me from having a preconception about how high I "should" have my temp set and I ended up running them pretty low as a result.
Testing new mods I've switched back and I'm back in the "usual" range around 450F, give or take.
(not sure why, but I've often seen Ti users up in the 500s F, but I never run Ni or SS that hot.)
And I will try the righty roll when the second SM arrives Tuesday.
Different forums have different lists in their Nanny Filters but I've never asked which are maybe included with the forum software and which admin staff have customized the list.
Not to mention there are some hilarious US/UK language differences using the same word.
"Fanny Pack" anyone?
I got my 316 from Unkamen (24g & 26g) though they have a good selection of sizes and damn good pricing. But only 28g for the 430. In fact... I still haven't stumbled across any other gauge of 430.
Temp preference is funny. I'm coming off of (and may return to) a long period of using C in TC.
Never had any cooking appliances in C so anything up around a couple hundred degrees is meaningless. It kept me from having a preconception about how high I "should" have my temp set and I ended up running them pretty low as a result.
Testing new mods I've switched back and I'm back in the "usual" range around 450F, give or take.
(not sure why, but I've often seen Ti users up in the 500s F, but I never run Ni or SS that hot.)
And I will try the righty roll when the second SM arrives Tuesday.
lol, or the British word for smokes for that matter
An answer in 'C' would have been fine too. I am familiar with most of your imperial measurements but those Fahrenheits still keep my puzzled and I always have to look up what's what.
Could it be that those Ti users all happen to use an old Evic VT perhaps? Because those tend to run a little cooler then they say they do on the display.
I used to be around the 450 F mark on mine anyway, but get the same results around 420 on the Nuggets. But I've always been a 420 kinda guy, soo..
I never really know if I'm rolling left or right by the way, I don't have a preference that way. I just put the deck in front of me and judge where the coil needs to start & end and just roll it accordingly, never gave it much though myself.
But perhaps that's just because I'm still a noob that hasn't had time to set in his way, idk.
This question may belong in the wick and wire forum, but it has to do specifically with this tank.. Will a 3mm ID coil of 15 or 16 (not spaced) wraps of 26g wire (Kanthal A1) fit? I'd like to up the ID to 3.5 or 4, it'd be tough enough to count all the way up to 15.. 
This question may belong in the wick and wire forum, but it has to do specifically with this tank.. Will a 3mm ID coil of 15 or 16 (not spaced) wraps of 26g wire (Kanthal A1) fit? I'd like to up the ID to 3.5 or 4, it'd be tough enough to count all the way up to 15..
Laying a 4mm mandrel in mine just now... it might work even with 26g, could be close though. Be a good idea to lay a 2-wrap in there to see how close it is to shorting on the side supports.
But that's a hell of a lot of wraps with chunky 26g wire. You'll be making some long legs bringing the ends back to the tie-downs. Hot leg issues maybe?
And what does a coil calc say that comes out to?
Sounds like he's aiming for the 2ohm mark
& I thought I used a lot wraps! lol
Like Jim said, it will be a close fit but if you're handy enough you might just be able to get it in there.
Wouldn't it be easier to use a thinner wire though?
I haven't received the tank yet, so thought I'd ask. I came up with that # of wraps using the build calc on the steam-engine site.
2.1 ohms resistance actually, the same as one of the screw-in heads in one of the clearo's I use. I'll go as low as slightly below 2 if I have to, not below 1.5 though. I only have 24g wire now, I ordered some 26g, but I might have to thin down to 28 or 30.Sounds like he's aiming for the 2ohm mark
Wouldn't it be easier to use a thinner wire though?
Thanks for the replies. The tank will be here in the next couple or few days, then I'll have some hands-on experimenting to do..
I've never even used a higher resistance than 0,6ohm since I switched over from the Ego's, I honestly have no idea what that would be like. It's about time I try it I guess.
Good luck when it gets there anyways, I would love to see a pic of it if you manage to get that coil in there
I'm usually a >1 ohm user (~1.2 on average). The only problem I have with the mini is mounting thin wire. Almost impossible to catch with the open channel posts (for me at least). I find 26g much easier to work with in there, and and 8 wrap 3 mm Kanthal coil works out fine for me. Haven't used SS for TC in this tank yet, so we'll see how that goes.
I did pick up a torx set as I can't stand those little Allen wrenches. Maybe it will be easier to catch a thinner leg with that.
Yeah, 28g was on the thin side to work with. With grade 1 titanium I would need to go to something like 32g to get to that resistance though, that's why I've never tried it.
I'm not a big fan of those angled keys neither, I want to pick up a dedicated screw-driver like thingie instead if I can find the right size now that most RTA's I'm interested in seem to use that type of screw.
I have one of those cheap bit sets that was posted some pages ago but wouldn't use it on my RTAs. The sizes seem a bit off to me (slightly smaller then they should be) and the metal is so soft that all the bits are basically a one time use item ime. They're definitely not made from a hardened steel.
I picked it up at a local store for around 3 bucks or so a few years ago, so no big lost there. I was surprised to see so many recommendations for it in this thread though.
The Allen wrench (or hex key, whatever..) that came with another RBA I have is tiny and frustrating. I'm considering a torx set as well. Those handles would keep me from cussing so much..
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