Yes I am using a clone. My question when evolve dna40 is in wattage mode do you have to lock atty ohms? The clone when when in wattage mode using kanthal wire when you change battery or atties you get message " new coil press up same press down"
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Yes I am using a clone. My question when evolve dna40 is in wattage mode do you have to lock atty ohms? The clone when when in wattage mode using kanthal wire when you change battery or atties you get message " new coil press up same press down"
So (semantics here sorry) the DNA 40 is always in wattage mode. The atty lock functions differently depending on if you're using Resistance or Non-Resistance wire. When using NR wire, enabling atty lock "locks" in the baseline atty resistance and uses it for TC calculations - you are still able to adjust watts. When using R wire, enabling atty lock only "locks" the power setting so it cannot be adjusted. Resistance reading is allowed to change dramatically without receiving the "New Coil up/dn" message.
From what I've observed the DNA 40 is smart enough to know which type of wire you are using and automatically changes modes - and works fine when a kanthal coil is used without manually disabling the TC.
From what I've observed the DNA 40 is smart enough to know which type of wire you are using and automatically changes modes - and works fine when a kanthal coil is used without manually disabling the TC.
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If I'm understanding you correctly, mgm, the clone asks for "new coil up same down" at every given opportunity. Playing around with my clownstix tonite has proven to be a lesson in (a bit of) frustration. Whether or not it's atty locked, the same message appears randomly, whether or not a new tank has been inserted. It even comes on if the device has been at rest for awhile.
The authie does not do this at all. Mine are in non atty locked mode, I've changed out tanks, and the settings all remain the same, with no message on the screen.
(I'm strictly in wattage mode, never Temp, for both the authie and the clown.)
My authentic sometimes asks for "new coil/same coil" but not consistenly...I have sofar only used it with kanthal coils in wattage mode....
Uuh, I think I'm stupid because I have no idea what you're telling me to do.. What is the set screw?
I'm guessing you're saying screw a carto on to the plate real tight and then twist the carto out and hopefully it'll turn the plate with it?
NOT a stupid question at all. The set screw is the tiny grub screw that sits inside the plate, on top of the firing pin. It's a tiny little screw that sets the plate in place, once you've set it at the correct height.
Be careful with it because it's VERY easy to lose sight of.
(Also - merkava is still working great
)At first mine did not do that but then it started to do that also. I have been in private message with the only other clone user posting here on ecf and his does not do this. I think...think I have fixed mine as it did not ask "new coil up same down" also my ohms was not steady with any atty. Up and down about .03 ohms. Randomly about 5 or 6 times a day I would get that message sometimes even more. I think its the ground for the 510 plate. The 510 plate is grounded by screwing it into the mod and the little grub screw on the plate.
Problem is it is screwing into the top half and it's painted there.
I took set screw out of plate and screwed the plate up and down about 20 times to clean it up. When I reinserted the set screw I noticed some of the indents in the plate I could see paint but found an indent that was paint free and used that indent.
Used it all day yesterday without issues and atty ohms does not move at all after first set. Today will be second day test if that did indeed fix the issue
Ooh the Allen screw..
So you're saying tighten the Allen screw, then put in an old atty, screw that in tight and flatten the plate? Then try and remove it?
I THINK that's what they were saying, but please wait for confirmation...
No I'd say - take the allen screw out so it doesn't fix plate in position (and be very careful you don't lose it if you take out completely) then put in atty, screw down and then undo - hopefully the plate will then unscrew and come out with the atty? If you tighten the allen screw it will (and should) lock the plate into position.
Tried it., with multiple other twisting and turning that i could possibly fathom. No dice. i mean... i have the Taifun Gt2 on it, and its vaping fabulously..
Im just ticked because something is not working right on my device that i paid a pretty hefty price tag for..
Chances are it's just cross threaded. This can happen with any screws where the outer threads and inner threads are independently tapped. This is surely something that can be corrected and Mini-Ecig will be able to fix it for you.
IMHO the design is dubious anyway because screwing in the allen grub screw tilts the 510 plate, it could damage the threads further. I wouldn't screw it in too tight, just like with the atties. It's just something maybe as a user you need to be aware of.
Speaking of design and customer care. Just because something is relatively expensive to buy, especially when it's expensive to make, doesn't ensure the design is optimal. Any product can have weaknesses. Chels has good vision for his products, but it's essentially a one-man-business maybe with some family or cheap labour to help the online support, packaging and shipping. It's not a large factory with legions of engineers and a whole department to ensure satisfactory support. The language barrier maybe doesn't help either. I'm not excusing any issues, just suggesting that we as customers give the benefit of doubt when communicating with Mini-Ecig. I believe Chels does want to build trust in the community, and the more products he moves, the more constructive feedback he gets from us, the better his prices and service will become.
IMHO the design is dubious anyway because screwing in the allen grub screw tilts the 510 plate, it could damage the threads further. I wouldn't screw it in too tight, just like with the atties. It's just something maybe as a user you need to be aware of.
Speaking of design and customer care. Just because something is relatively expensive to buy, especially when it's expensive to make, doesn't ensure the design is optimal. Any product can have weaknesses. Chels has good vision for his products, but it's essentially a one-man-business maybe with some family or cheap labour to help the online support, packaging and shipping. It's not a large factory with legions of engineers and a whole department to ensure satisfactory support. The language barrier maybe doesn't help either. I'm not excusing any issues, just suggesting that we as customers give the benefit of doubt when communicating with Mini-Ecig. I believe Chels does want to build trust in the community, and the more products he moves, the more constructive feedback he gets from us, the better his prices and service will become.
How well does the Xvostick protect the tank? I was looking at the Plasmair and thinking this device would be a great match....
mgm, I was with you up until that sentence. I'm a little confused. I guess it would be difficult to show it in a pic?
Wonderful post, WiSK. Like Like Like!
I think for the most part, F2V, it protects the tank fairly well. There IS tho, that one open (non-Seatbelt) spot upon which, if you dropped the mod and found that exact spot....... welp, it could spell SPLAT!
I haven't found the perfect mod, yet...I think that @DPLongo22 probably has a better solution in his Railbox though, as the entire tank is enclosed. But, unfortunately, I don't think the Plasmair would work in the Railbox because the DT is part of the tank...
I think for the most part, F2V, it protects the tank fairly well. There IS tho, that one open (non-Seatbelt) spot upon which, if you dropped the mod and found that exact spot....... welp, it could spell SPLAT!
and the Railbox is not exactly small....When I reinserted the set screwI noticed some of the indents in the plate I could see paint but found an indent that was paint free and used that indent.
The set screw (grub screw) on the 510 plate is screwed down to to lock the 510 plate from moving. There are about 8 (maybe more) different holes that the set screw can screw into so that you can move the plate to line up air holes on an atty so it is exposed to increase air flow (not needed good air flow even if air holes in an atty are not exposed). When I shined a light down there most holes were paint covered... i found one that was not paint covered. I think (or hope) that improved the ground. Since I did that my ohms is not changing and I only got the message "new coil up same down" once in 2 days of vaping
The set screw (grub screw) on the 510 plate is screwed down to to lock the 510 plate from moving. There are about 8 (maybe more) different holes that the set screw can screw into so that you can move the plate to line up air holes on an atty so it is exposed to increase air flow (not needed good air flow even if air holes in an atty are not exposed). When I shined a light down there most holes were paint covered... i found one that was not paint covered. I think (or hope) that improved the ground. Since I did that my ohms is not changing and I only got the message "new coil up same down" once in 2 days of vaping
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I agree completely and have a ton of faith in this product sometime out in the future, as Kat can attest to first-hand. Could they have handled our problem differently? Oh, absolutely. But am I faulting myself at least half as much as them, for choosing to be an early adopter? I most certainly AM.
I'll continue to support them because I truly do feel that this is an ingenious device, and I'm not sure it can be improved upon (design wise).
They're trying their best to work with me, and I can assure you that's not always an easy task (as Kat can ALSO attest to first-hand).
I haven't found the perfect mod, yet...I think that @DPLongo22 probably has a better solution in his Railbox though, as the entire tank is enclosed. But, unfortunately, I don't think the Plasmair would work in the Railbox because the DT is part of the tank
The Plasmair definitely would NOT work in the RailBox, F2V. For the very reason you state.
It is large, for sure. Not unwieldy, by any stretch, but noticeably larger than the Xvo. It's comfortable to hold, and provides a vape that actually exceeds the Xvo. This is not new to me, being a HUGE fan of the Billet Box (I own three). There is definitely SOMETHING about having everything enclosed that changes the vape experience, just slightly yet enough to recognize the difference.
It's funny though, the thing keeps growing on me. I've gone back and forth (sell or not) more times than I can count. It's VERY well made, and I really enjoy using it daily.
A lot may depend on how things progress with Mini, regarding a situation that we're currently discussing. If things fall in my favor, the RailBox will likely go (and I won't be happy about it). But if not, then it might stick around for a long time to come.
Bigger, for sure. Nice? Oh yes it is.
Don't mind the funny drip-tip in the last pic. That was the ONLY last time that tip has seen any action at all, and it didn't last.
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