The atomizers are marked indicating 2.8. The Provari built in meter says 2.6 for a second, then sits at 3.0. I just tried the 3rd atomizer from the batch and it doesn't seem quite as bad, but it's still running pretty hot at 3.5 volts (it also checks at 3.0 with the built in meter). I'll try to find some of my old atomizers and check them out and also try some older batteries that I usually use as backups just to make sure it's not something wrong with my current battery. Hopefully it's not the Provari itself. I do tend to drop it a lot because I'm clumsy.
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The atomizers are marked indicating 2.8. The Provari built in meter says 2.6 for a second, then sits at 3.0. I just tried the 3rd atomizer from the batch and it doesn't seem quite as bad, but it's still running pretty hot at 3.5 volts (it also checks at 3.0 with the built in meter). I'll try to find some of my old atomizers and check them out and also try some older batteries that I usually use as backups just to make sure it's not something wrong with my current battery. Hopefully it's not the Provari itself. I do tend to drop it a lot because I'm clumsy.
It think it's the battery. I checked several different components, as well as trying a backup PV (don't know why I didn't think of that earlier). A different battery in the Provari allows up to 3.7 volts without burning the liquid and vapes about the same as a Volt from SI. Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit. I should have done more experimenting before asking on the forums.
It depends on the juice, what it's in and the time of day. I like my favorite juice warmer in the evening.
Since all my carto tanks have the same carto in them (Ikenvape Platinum LR 2.2 ohm), I usually am at 4 volts. Maybe I tick it up a couple tenths, or down a couple to get the best flavor, or a bigger vape.
In my 1 Protank 2, with 2.2ohm attys, it seems to work best at 4.5 volts. Probably because of the larger air draw of the Protank.
In my 1 Protank 2, with 2.2ohm attys, it seems to work best at 4.5 volts. Probably because of the larger air draw of the Protank.
The first thing that comes to mind is a dry hit. When my tank is on it's last dregs of juice and the wick is not getting any, I get an extra warm nasty burn tasting vape. I usually get a few minor pre-burned hits before this happens so can usually avoid the really nasty one.
What kind of atomizer are you using? You didn't mention that. Are you allowing adequate time for wick saturation before the first vape? With your coil ohms and volts used, you are not even break 5 watts, there is no way your juice should taste burnt or hot at under 5 watts of power. Unless the wick isn't getting saturated or you have a hot spot in your build.
It think it's the battery. I checked several different components, as well as trying a backup PV (don't know why I didn't think of that earlier). A different battery in the Provari allows up to 3.7 volts without burning the liquid and vapes about the same as a Volt from SI. Sorry for hijacking the thread a bit. I should have done more experimenting before asking on the forums.
A large fluctuating ohm reading is usually an indication of a loose screw on your coil build, if you are doing rba's, or a short in the coil wire. If using an rba, tear it down to the coil build and check to make sure the coil lead wire screws are tight, should stop the fluctuation. If you are using a protank style atty, then chances are that you over tightened the atomizer onto the Provari, bending the coil wires and creating a small short or even a cracked coil. This could also cause hot spots leading to your nasty hot vape hits. I doubt that the battery has much if anything to do with your problem, the voltage regulation on the Provari will maintain your setting as long as there is enough voltage to activate it. That's one of the big selling points with the Provari. What you set is what you get.
As far as the OP's questions on volts used, that is highly dependent on my coil builds. I usually aim for a build measuring 1-1.5ohms so that I can max out the watts at lower volts. Trying to maximize my batter life. I usually think in watts, I tend to vape at 14.4-15.3 watts depending on the juice and the life left in my wick. Fresh wick and she's fine at the higher watts, week old wick that's getting gunky, I have to turn her down a tad, cause a gunky used wick can't wick as well and keep up with vapping at 15+watts of power, producing a pre burn taste and more harsh flavor. So I try to remember to pull the cotton, dry burn the coil to burn off any build up, then wrap the coil with fresh cotton. If my build is 2.4 ohms I run the P at 6volts or 15watts. Upsets me when I get a build with that high of ohms, cause after a few days the ohms will creep up and all of a sudden the most I'm cooking at is 12 watts or so, the juiciness, flavor and thickness of my vape tends to fall of to just excellent instead of knock me on my azz, Damn that's a good vape, vape. That's another reason I shoot for close to a 1 ohm build, get more life off my coil before I'm dissatisfied with the vape. With a 1 ohm coil I can start at 3.9 volts so have a lot more upward voltage to go as the coil becomes more resistant with use. Right now I'm barley getting 13.86 watts on my Russian build cause the coil is now at 2.5-2.6ohms will have to rebuild the Volcanic Dragon tomorrow after I vape my 5ml tank dry.
I use Vivi Novas. I've been using them for a year with the same flavor with the same Provari. It doesn't make sense for things to change suddenly unless there's a problem (I haven't changed how I vape, for instance). If the old atomizers are also burning the liquid (and didn't before), and everything works fine on a different PV, then it's got to be something with the Provari. It seems to be the battery, although I don't know why that would happen.
Great habit info here. I guess it's obvious if you're changing coils all day, your voltage will be anywhere. I just figured more people had a stronger settle point. Even if you change toppers all day, it's likely that one is your maverick. In which case, you have a voltage that comes to mind.
I deviate from 4.5 often +/- 0.3v on my cartos of choice, but 4.5 is the number that best describes ground zero on all my Provarii for the better part of the day.
I deviate from 4.5 often +/- 0.3v on my cartos of choice, but 4.5 is the number that best describes ground zero on all my Provarii for the better part of the day.
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