Join the Army Subasidal tendencies

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Ryedan

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Wa hooo! back on now just gotta figure out ins and outs of everything now. My brand spanking new SX M class should arrive tomorrow Im pretty stoked about that.

I think Roxy is right and you'll really like it. I wanted to explore temp protection so I ordered a VaporFlask clone to try out. Then I found a sale on a VS DNA40 locally up here and couldn't resist so I have them both now. Figure I can always sell one if I feel like it.

I don't remember you ever talking about working with Ni wire so if you're interested here's a video I found when I was doing research on it about how to fold over the wire to double or quadruple thickness to make it stronger for mounting through post holes. I've only tried it once so far, doubling it and it worked well for me.

Enjoy the new mod my friend :toast:
 

Ryedan

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Real subohm tanking.

ddf01f8e66fc642cfc5697e4be308aca.jpg

Holy sub-ohm tanking Batman, 65 watts is a lot of power in what I think is a Billow. I've got one set up with dual coils at 0.54 ohms using 27 gauge Kanthal and it becomes a hot vape at 40 watts. Did you modify yours?
 
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Spidey2011

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Holy sub-ohm tanking Batman, 65 watts is a lot of power in what I think is a Billow. I've got one set up with dual coils at 0.54 ohms using 27 gauge Kanthal and it becomes a hot vape at 40 watts. Did you modify yours?
I run mine at 70-80 watts. Dual 24ga 3mm kanthal, 10 wraps each. Pita to fit it all in there, but it works great.
 

Ryedan

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I run mine at 70-80 watts. Dual 24ga 3mm kanthal, 10 wraps each. Pita to fit it all in there, but it works great.

Thanks Spidey2011. So around 0.45 ohms?

This is my first setup with this RTA and I didn't think it would wick well enough or have the air flow required to do 70 watts. I'm going to have to try it :)
 
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Spidey2011

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Thanks Spidey2011. So around 0.45 ohms?

This is my first setup with this RTA and I didn't think it would wick well enough or have the air flow required to do 70 watts. I'm going to have to try it :)
Yep. Reads .4 on my sig 100+. The key is to make little fluff balls without actually putting the wicking into the juice channels or blocking the airflow. Then pull the afc screws out completely. Best airflow I've been able to get out of a tank yet.
 

Sicaedus

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Holy sub-ohm tanking Batman, 65 watts is a lot of power in what I think is a Billow. I've got one set up with dual coils at 0.54 ohms using 27 gauge Kanthal and it becomes a hot vape at 40 watts. Did you modify yours?
I took out the air flow screws because I could not stand the whistling. I also use a small o ring to boost the height of the tank of the mod about half a mil. both increase air flow by a lot. I also like a nice warm vape.

Edit: Yes, that is a beastly Billow. One of the best vape purchases I have made to date. [emoji16]
 

Ryedan

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Yep. Reads .4 on my sig 100+. The key is to make little fluff balls without actually putting the wicking into the juice channels or blocking the airflow. Then pull the afc screws out completely. Best airflow I've been able to get out of a tank yet.

You now, when I took the tank apart to clean it I took those screws out and realized I would get more air flow without them installed. I put them back in thinking they would avoid a mess if I flooded the tank. Well I haven't flooded the tank yet and the screws are out now. And I doubt they're going back in :)

This thing is nice! Thanks for the help Spidey :toast:
 

Ryedan

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I took out the air flow screws because I could not stand the whistling. I also use a small o ring to boost the height of the tank of the mod about half a mil. both increase air flow by a lot. I also like a nice warm vape.

Edit: Yes, that is a beastly Billow. One of the best vape purchases I have made to date.

Thanks Sicaedus. Can you tell me a bit more about the O-ring? I'm assuming you put an O-ring under or over the glass tank to increase the length of the tank? If that's it, I don't get how that helps air flow.
 
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Spidey2011

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You now, when I took the tank apart to clean it I took those screws out and realized I would get more air flow without them installed. I put them back in thinking they would avoid a mess if I flooded the tank. Well I haven't flooded the tank yet and the screws are out now. And I doubt they're going back in :)

This thing is nice! Thanks for the help Spidey :toast:
Trust me it won't help if you flood the tank. Lol. I lost quite a bit of liquid before I figured out how to properly wick that little beast.
 
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Ryedan

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Trust me it won't help if you flood the tank. Lol. I lost quite a bit of liquid before I figured out how to properly wick that little beast.

I hear ya Spidey, LOL. Luckily I'm not having wicking problems.

Speaking of little beasts, I've heard some really good things about the UD Goliath RTA. I may just buy one even though I've blown my vape budget for the year. At $30 plus shipping I have the feeling it might just be worth it.
 
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Spidey2011

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I hear ya Spidey, LOL. Luckily I'm not having wicking problems.

Speaking of little beasts, I've heard some really good things about the UD Goliath RTA. I may just buy one even though I've blown my vape budget for the year. At $30 plus shipping I have the feeling it might just be worth it.
I've never been much of a tank guy. Tried a fogger v5 and hated it. The billow works for me, but I only use it on long drives. Nothing can replace my dark horse rda. Lol
 

roxynoodle

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I had a Billow, but the flavor was muted. I never had it leak though. I don't think I have a pic of how I wicked it, but I do have pics of my Orchid wicking, which I did the same. I ran it on a mech so definitely not 70W. 0.5 ohm build so more like 35W.

I'm using titanium on the sx mini m class as I'm allergic to nickel.
 

Ryedan

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I had a Billow, but the flavor was muted. I never had it leak though. I don't think I have a pic of how I wicked it, but I do have pics of my Orchid wicking, which I did the same. I ran it on a mech so definitely not 70W. 0.5 ohm build so more like 35W.

I'm using titanium on the sx mini m class as I'm allergic to nickel.

So far I agree on the reduced flavor roxy, but it's early times for me with this RTA and I'm really not experienced with tanks. I'm enjoying it at 36 watts right now with a dark chocolate DIY juice at 70% PG, no nic. It's doing pretty good all around. The tank is wicking perfectly. Flavor is good enough. Vapor is good. This could be a tank that I can run temperature protected with.

I've only tried one single coil setup with Ni wire so far in my old Trident and I was not happy with it. It worked, but Ni is so soft the coil would not stay where I put it during use. I'm thinking of trying parallel Kanthal and Ni or just Ti next, but I would like to do it in a tank not a RDA. I'm also thinking a Kayfun type RTA would stabilize the coil so that would take care of that issue. Then again maybe I should just keep it simple and learn on a RDA :rolleyes:

I am having fun though :)
 

SissySpike

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I think Roxy is right and you'll really like it. I wanted to explore temp protection so I ordered a VaporFlask clone to try out. Then I found a sale on a VS DNA40 locally up here and couldn't resist so I have them both now. Figure I can always sell one if I feel like it.

I don't remember you ever talking about working with Ni wire so if you're interested here's a video I found when I was doing research on it about how to fold over the wire to double or quadruple thickness to make it stronger for mounting through post holes. I've only tried it once so far, doubling it and it worked well for me.

Enjoy the new mod my friend :toast:
IMG_0059.JPG IMG_0060.JPG
I cant use Nickel wire it gives me a sore throat :(

I have 2 DNA 40 a VS and a box I built my self I also have a VF clone I got it because everyone was saying it was better than the legit DNA 40 obviously those people have not used a DNA 40 because it is not better. IMO

I had a Billow, but the flavor was muted. I never had it leak though. I don't think I have a pic of how I wicked it, but I do have pics of my Orchid wicking, which I did the same. I ran it on a mech so definitely not 70W. 0.5 ohm build so more like 35W.

I'm using titanium on the sx mini m class as I'm allergic to nickel.
How do you like the TI Roxy I need to get some
 

Ryedan

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I run mine at 70-80 watts. Dual 24ga 3mm kanthal, 10 wraps each. Pita to fit it all in there, but it works great.

OK, I just rebuilt the Billow with 24 gauge Kanthal but I wimped out and did 8 wraps on a 2.4mm pin for a grand total of 0.4 ohms final. It's getting tight, but there is still room for more :). It's vaping hot but very well at 40 watts and the flavor is much better than my last build. I'm going to go all the way with 10 wraps at the bigger diameter tomorrow and see how that goes.
 

SissySpike

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Luckily I have no problem with Ni so far Buzzz. Hopefully it stays that way, but if not Ti is good too I think :)
I just placed an order for Ti wire Ill post my thoughts It looks like as long as you keep it under 600 degrees dont think that will be to hard , it wont powder and create a carcinogenic. I doubt youll have any issues it seems like it either bothers a person or it doesn't

Im pretty sensitive to nickel I once repaired some cracks in some 1920s fire hydrants for the city of MT Zion I had to pack them in sand and do lots of preheating and skipping around and grinding to get the nickel rod welds to not crack away from the cast iron. That night I had a rash everywhere that was exposed to the grinding dust :(
 
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Sicaedus

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Thanks Sicaedus. Can you tell me a bit more about the O-ring? I'm assuming you put an O-ring under or over the glass tank to increase the length of the tank? If that's it, I don't get how that helps air flow.


Oh, my bad. I'm using a small drip tip o ring around the 510 connector to prevent scuffs on my Sigelei mods. I actually loosens the draw for the Billow once the afc screws are gone.
 
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