New TC mod - Invader mini - specs online!
- Thread starter TheotherSteveS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
How so? It doesn't seem to be outputting the expected/shown voltage?
I think it s a feature of the chiNA40 chips that the boost circuit is less than impressive. The drop off in hit is notable as the batt charge gets low. Its particulalry noticable in TP mode. Not a biggy. I generally swap out the batt at mid charge anyway where it isnt so acute a problem. It will be interesting to see what busardo makes of it actually. It will be the first DNA40 'clone' he reviews I think...
I think it s a feature of the chiNA40 chips that the boost circuit is less than impressive. The drop off in hit is notable as the batt charge gets low. Its particulalry noticable in TP mode. Not a biggy. I generally swap out the batt at mid charge anyway where it isnt so acute a problem. It will be interesting to see what busardo makes of it actually. It will be the first DNA40 'clone' he reviews I think...
Ah interesting, I'll have to see if I can spot that with my VF.
Yeah that will be an interesting review. I'm subbed to him on Facebook, and he was first sent something called the LVT-E or something like that, then he was contacted by Heatvape to tell him that this LVT thing is a clone of their Invader Mini, so he swapped them out.
I commented on that post on Facebook to muse philosophically along the lines of: "what is too much of a clone? The LVT is a full clone of the Heatvape. But the Heatvape, while an original design, does use a Chinese clone of the dna 40. Where does one draw the line?" He didn't respond
But yeah I'd love to see scope readings for the ChiDNA 40 and the Heatvape is likely the only chance we'll have of that, for now at least. Shame in a way it's the 50 watt device as things might have changed a bit since the 40 watt iterations (though perhaps not much, based on what you said.)
Ah interesting, I'll have to see if I can spot that with my VF.
Yeah that will be an interesting review. I'm subbed to him on Facebook, and he was first sent something called the LVT-E or something like that, then he was contacted by Heatvape to tell him that this LVT thing is a clone of their Invader Mini, so he swapped them out.
I commented on that post on Facebook to muse philosophically along the lines of: "what is too much of a clone? The LVT is a full clone of the Heatvape. But the Heatvape, while an original design, does use a Chinese clone of the DNA 40. Where does one draw the line?" He didn't respond
But yeah I'd love to see scope readings for the ChiDNA 40 and the Heatvape is likely the only chance we'll have of that, for now at least. Shame in a way it's the 50 watt device as things might have changed a bit since the 40 watt iterations (though perhaps not much, based on what you said.)
Overall the behaviour is similar to the chips in the kangxin and waidea i think. As you know, the 50W version is in that VF mini thingfrom kangxin and I suspect that is the same chip as is in the invader. This one sort of detects Ni vs Kanthal but not very robustly. I also see something that looks very much like refinement going on. Someone (tpat??) said that the ear;ly kangxins did this but Im not sure about that although I do see resistance change sometimes so who knows. Maybe Phil will have some insight.
You know over all, this is a pretty cool device. It has its quirks, some quite annoying, but if you dont insist on swapping atty evry 5 minutes and let it do its thing, its great. Im really glad i got it. In fact I find myself using it as much as the sx mini, and probably more than th VF clone...go figure!
ps. nice review on the IPV4 mate!
Ok, just purchased this device on Thursday, keep in mind, this is my first external battery mod ( used to MVP 2, Istick 20w) I've noticed the off and on waking issue, and failure to remember settings, but last night, I was letting the battery run down to see if a single battery would last me all day, and it had been laying down and gone to sleep, when I woke it up, without checking the screen, fired it, and it had gone from my saved 7.5W in Kanthal to 10w and showing temp instead of voltage. Obviously this toasted my freshly built ( that morning) 1.4ohm coil is this behavior typical of this device? Did I do something wrong?
Thanks,
Thanks,
i havent seen it jump into T mode but I have seen the reverse on wake up. The auto recognition of Ni vs kanthal is a bit flaky i think. I wish they hadn't bothered including it really. So I think you device is ok, just have be vigilant!
That seems to be what I've been finding, and unfortunately, that just doesn't fit into my style of vaping. I'll be returning it today, and finding a different, more simplified, device. Thank you everyone for your posts and input
I saw this on Vapor Tek this morning and ordered it based on it being super rugged. Then, I read this thread. I probably still would have ordered it despite the glitches that have been mentioned. I have two iSticks, an original and a 30, and like them, but they always seem to need a charge at the same time.
This will also be my first experience with Ni200 and temp control. I've got tempered Ni200 on 28 and 30 gauge and will start out with an ElrK clone to keep it simple.
This will also be my first experience with Ni200 and temp control. I've got tempered Ni200 on 28 and 30 gauge and will start out with an ElrK clone to keep it simple.
I hope it works out for you, in some aspects, it's a great mod, just not my cup of tea If you're dripping, into temp control, and don't need to worry about checking settings, every time you take a hit, then you'll probably love it.
I've been using this for about 2 days now. Once I found out the manual was wrong (mentioned earlier re: entering Temp Control mode is NOT Fire + "-"), things have been relatively smooth sailing. I have noticed a couple times that it has reset to factory defaults (back to 10w and resistance shows "--", then asks if it's a new coil). I haven't had it switch between Voltage and Temp modes on wake up.
One thing I haven't noticed yet is the over temp message. Does it show up only while firing, and disappear as soon as you're done? I turned the temp down to 250 to try and see the message, but I didn't. It definitely brought the vapor production way down, so I know it was regulating, just didn't see the message.
Also, does anyone have a recommendation on where to set the temp? Or point me towards a better thread that I haven't been able to track down yet?
One thing I haven't noticed yet is the over temp message. Does it show up only while firing, and disappear as soon as you're done? I turned the temp down to 250 to try and see the message, but I didn't. It definitely brought the vapor production way down, so I know it was regulating, just didn't see the message.
Also, does anyone have a recommendation on where to set the temp? Or point me towards a better thread that I haven't been able to track down yet?
The "Over Temp" message indicates that the board, itself, is overheated, nothing to do with the atty. At least that's what I have gathered from watching reviews and reading anyway.
As far as a specific temperature, that all depends on the atty, coil, wick, liquid and how you like the flavor. There is no "right" temperature other than not running it so hot the liquid is burning rather than vaporizing.
As far as a specific temperature, that all depends on the atty, coil, wick, liquid and how you like the flavor. There is no "right" temperature other than not running it so hot the liquid is burning rather than vaporizing.
Ah, that makes sense about the error message. And that's what I figured about the temperature, I didn't think about different wicking being able to keep up better at higher temperatures. Was just thinking all cotton wicks would have a similar max.
This is my first venture into temperature control, so thanks for the info!
This is my first venture into temperature control, so thanks for the info!
I'd suggest trying rayon wick. Many have found it superior to cotton (blasphemy, I know).
The chinese dna40 clonerd boards do not in general dispaly a TP message like the evolv-based devices do so fear not!!I've been using this for about 2 days now. Once I found out the manual was wrong (mentioned earlier re: entering Temp Control mode is NOT Fire + "-"), things have been relatively smooth sailing. I have noticed a couple times that it has reset to factory defaults (back to 10w and resistance shows "--", then asks if it's a new coil). I haven't had it switch between Voltage and Temp modes on wake up.
One thing I haven't noticed yet is the over temp message. Does it show up only while firing, and disappear as soon as you're done? I turned the temp down to 250 to try and see the message, but I didn't. It definitely brought the vapor production way down, so I know it was regulating, just didn't see the message.
Also, does anyone have a recommendation on where to set the temp? Or point me towards a better thread that I haven't been able to track down yet?
Since my last post I've noticed that while firing it will display the current temp/wattage. Makes me wish I had a removable eye or something so I could see it while puffing!
I've only ever tried cotton, but open to new things! What is it that makes rayon better? Flavor, ease of building, wicking, etc.?
I've only ever tried cotton, but open to new things! What is it that makes rayon better? Flavor, ease of building, wicking, etc.?
Rayon, being pure cellulose, has no "flavor" like cotton does. To me it seems to have superior wicking abilities and switching liquids happens very easily because of the fast wicking ability.
A lot of people say it is easier, more forgiving, to work with than cotton. If you have used cotton there is an adjustment to make in that more rayon is needed than cotton. That is a result of rayon contracting, slightly, when it gets wet versus cotton expanding.
Rayon seems to last far longer than cotton. I, typically, get 60 to 100ml from a build and some folks have gone past 250ml in a pinch.
This thread is kind of long, but it covers everything you'd ever need or want to know about using rayon wick -
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit! | E-Cigarette Forum
A lot of people say it is easier, more forgiving, to work with than cotton. If you have used cotton there is an adjustment to make in that more rayon is needed than cotton. That is a result of rayon contracting, slightly, when it gets wet versus cotton expanding.
Rayon seems to last far longer than cotton. I, typically, get 60 to 100ml from a build and some folks have gone past 250ml in a pinch.
This thread is kind of long, but it covers everything you'd ever need or want to know about using rayon wick -
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit! | E-Cigarette Forum
Interesting, thanks! I'd seen Rayon mentioned a number of times on here, but never got around to searching for more info.
I will try some out, I think - try everything once, etc!
Are any adjustments required or recommended when using it with TP; temperature offsets or anything? Eg if I know Device 1 with Build X is best at 450° F, can I assume the same build with rayon instead of cotton should also be at 450?
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
