Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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Stretching the center contact spring about 10% and reinstalling provided good contact for me.
12mm x 1.5mm o-rings from www.oringsandmore.com restored my vacuum to a good seal.
A good way to check vacuum is to wet your fingers and cover all the air holes, then suck a light vacuum on the drip tip and hold for a couple of seconds with your tongue on the drip tip. If you don't sense light suction when you pull your tongue off, there's a leak. The stock 11mm x 1mm rings don't work well in the #16 position. 12mm x 1.5mm provides a good seal.
Always lube the orings with juice when you reassemble. If they are dry you get galling and twisting and maybe even a nick in the rubber.
12mm x 1.5mm o-rings from www.oringsandmore.com restored my vacuum to a good seal.
A good way to check vacuum is to wet your fingers and cover all the air holes, then suck a light vacuum on the drip tip and hold for a couple of seconds with your tongue on the drip tip. If you don't sense light suction when you pull your tongue off, there's a leak. The stock 11mm x 1mm rings don't work well in the #16 position. 12mm x 1.5mm provides a good seal.
Always lube the orings with juice when you reassemble. If they are dry you get galling and twisting and maybe even a nick in the rubber.
I got my orings for #16 in the mail yesterday finally. I put one in one of my kayfuns and so far no leaking. I am getting a little gurgling though on the draw.
Gurgling indicates a highly saturated wick and you shouldn't have that normally, although a little after filling is normal. If it's flooding and gurgling frequently you might have a vacuum leak. Laying a Kayfun on its side can also cause wick oversaturation that can result in juice leaking out the air holes. Sometimes, that happens when I carry my Kayfun in my pants pocket. Body heat can cause juice expansion and some dribbling around the air holes.
AFAIK, there's no tank that won't leak a little juice at some point
GP Spheroid will not leak in any position or even with the pressure changes on an Airplane.
That would be one of dozens of RTAs that don't. You'd think that manufacturers would fix their products if they actually use them. If I were the guy in charge I'd be on the engineering department's case. Duckbill valves in the air duct and under the drip tip socket might be a good start. Lock in the internal pressure state and allow it to equalize during and after draw.
I didn't know you weren't supposed to lay them on their side. Mine sits on its side all day at work. I haven't had any leaking since I put in the new oring last night. Just gurgling.
I don't have frequent leaks in my Kayfun 3, but when it happens it's usually right after I fill it. Laying on it's side seems to aggravate the issue, but it's probably not the cause. It's likely already flooded and laying down lets the juice run out. If it's going to leak it will also happen from juice expansion when it gets warm in my pocket. Replacing coil deck area o-rings will usually fix it. The last o-ring I replaced for that was the little donut o-ring where the chimney top goes through the top cap. That one can be an aggravating ring to change, but it fixed the problem.
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My wife is the queen of ruff handling. I have to order more Pyrex tanks again. She was reminding me again about the leakage on her Tobeco kf4 last night. So this morning I tore it down completely and replaced every O ring in it and tightened every screw. Bingo, works as new. Still have to order some tanks and replace the o ring kit I used. Probably from gearbest. I love it quiet around here, LOL.
I my experience the clones I have purchased have worked out very well. Granted there may be some "quality control" issues with the clones compared to the original but what does one expect from a product which costs 70% less than the authentic version. You are bound to come across some minor issues. The main question is if you can overlook or live with those issues versus dropping a whole wad of cash for the authentic.
Also, we all need to remmeber that the main reason anbauthentic costs so much more than the clone is that with the authentic you are paying for all the R&D that went into the creation of the peoduct, and not necessarily the quality of materials used to make the item. With clones, there is very little (if any) R&D that went into the making of the product. All the major R&D went into the authentic, all China did was copy the authentic 1:1, no trial and error.
Also, we all need to remmeber that the main reason anbauthentic costs so much more than the clone is that with the authentic you are paying for all the R&D that went into the creation of the peoduct, and not necessarily the quality of materials used to make the item. With clones, there is very little (if any) R&D that went into the making of the product. All the major R&D went into the authentic, all China did was copy the authentic 1:1, no trial and error.
Oh yeah, finally have a nickel coil up and running with stable resistance and would like to try some other builds, maybe even a twisted kanthal and nickel contact coil in the near future. Now, just mustn't forget which KF4 has the nickel in it, how am I going to do that?!
You'll know as soon as you fire it on the wrong device...
I have Ti, Ni and Kanthal builds in various tanks... you need to remember or mark em.
You'll know as soon as you fire it on the wrong device...
LMAO, this is no joke! Well, had intended on going full steel (no brainer right) but I prefer the all clear tank config and don't care for stickers everywhere, got enough of that all over my diy!
Will try the drip tip idea, thanks @ThunderDan
The full SS tanks are nice, my Rose V2 looks excellent with full SS. I am still stuck in that mindset of needing to see my juice levels and looking for the rise of the occasional bubble.
I switched my Kafun Mini 2.1 over to Ti and SS tank. I was enjoying it yesterday till the vapor stopped, I thought it was a dead battery but the tank was actually bone dry. Filled it up and away I went.
The full SS tanks are nice, my Rose V2 looks excellent with full SS. I am still stuck in that mindset of needing to see my juice levels and looking for the rise of the occasional bubble.
I switched my Kafun Mini 2.1 over to Ti and SS tank. I was enjoying it yesterday till the vapor stopped, I thought it was a dead battery but the tank was actually bone dry. Filled it up and away I went.
Yer I need to be able to see my juice levels on the odd occasion i still run them dry lol I personally find a notable flavor difference if i let the cotton become pretty well completely dry, I never burn the cotton it usually just a little brown but that's all that is required the flavour changes, that's why i never get steel tanks the atty would always have a slightly different taste at least for me. I think its the flavoring on the coil without acquitted fluid the coils i recon heats up a bit more until the gunk really start cooking that when i usually notice but its two late!
I use Rayon in all my build and with the TC set at 400F on the Kayfun mini, I won't experience any wick change at all. Rayon seems much better at dry hit recovery than cotton does and now with TC, I don't have those any more.
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