Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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Deadkaiser

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Yer TC is nice in some ways at the same time not being able to burn the gunk of coils just means i end up making a whole lot more coil. Maybe i just use gunky juice but I swear I was building a few new coil every 2 or 3 days. I personally have just gone back to kanthal dry hits are rarely a problem on tanks unless i fill a kf4 and leave it for a bit then i always forget about opening that juice control up! .....About to build my first SS16 coils just need to find that trick i swear there some special something i'm meant to do while builing an SS16 coils.......
 
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juicynoos

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I use Rayon in all my build and with the TC set at 400F on the Kayfun mini, I won't experience any wick change at all. Rayon seems much better at dry hit recovery than cotton does and now with TC, I don't have those any more. ;)

Agreed, rayon def. helps in the TC dept. This gives me another way to build the KF4 to better effect. Thanks Troll. I'm not 100% settled with TC on the kF4 as yet since am only on my 1st build with it on a tank. I think I need a better TC mod at some point as would dearly like to try different wires aswell.
 
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TrollDragon

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Yer TC is nice in some ways at the same time not being able to burn the gunk of coils just means i end up making a whole lot more coil. Maybe i just use gunky juice but I swear I was building a few new coil every 2 or 3 days. I personally have just gone back to kanthal dry hits are rarely a problem on tanks unless i fill a kf4 and leave it for a bit then i always forget about opening that juice control up! .....About to build my first SS16 coils just need to find that trick i swear there some special something i'm meant to do while builing an SS16 coils.......
I fully agree TC is not the be all and end all of vaping, I am just new to the TC game myself and learning that the TC vape is not exactly the same as a Kanthal vape. Then again I am only using a IPV D2 and an eVic VTC Mini (That has TC Problems) so I am not familiar with the proper TC devices like the SX350J or the DNA200. I imagine those are night and day to what I am using.

I also don't run any dark or overly sweet juices, I am just not a fan of them so my coils stay fairly clean for quite a while. I don't forget to open the JC on the KF4 anymore since I had it happen to me twice while driving to work, a nice big pull with a burnt wick finish is a good time when behind the wheel. At least it was on the highway and not in stop and go traffic. So now I check the KF4 before I turn the device on to make sure JC is open. ;)

I don't have any SS wire so I cant help you there, I should have picked up some SS430 from Unkamen with my Ti order as it has a good TCR value over the 316/317 wire. But I didn't know at the time my devices would support it.
 
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TrollDragon

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Agreed, rayon def. helps in the TC dept. This gives me another way to build the KF4 to better effect. Thanks Troll. I'm not 100% settled with TC on the kF4 as yet since am only on my 1st build with it on a tank. I think I need a better TC mod at some point as would dearly like to try different wires aswell.
I have my Ni 200 build on the most janky threaded KF4 I have, I don't even know who makes it as it was very generously piffed to me. My Infinite still has a 26g Kanthal build and works perfectly.

I was looking around for RTA's that I would like to put an Ni 200 build on before I picked up the Ti wire, there are not a whole lot that will take an Ni 200 build unless you use 30g/32g and that stuff is just too small for me.

The Ti works great, I have 26g and 28g which is nice to be able to build a contact 8 wrap coil again instead of those spaced Ni 200 ones. I will eventually get a roll of SS430 to try out down the road.

A nicer mod would be better for sure, like I posted earlier an SX350J or DNA200 would be excellent but not in my vape budget at the moment. ;)
 
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SVrider

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I received my EHPro Kayfun v4 yesterday morning from SweetVapes and so far its working very good. No leaks or flooding at all even after sitting over night with the JC open. The build quality is better then i was expecting, No rough threads.

Right now i have a 1.65 ohm spaced coil using 28ga with a ID of 2.5 running at 11 watts. Any builds you guys can recommend i try with this atty?
 
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hittman

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    I run my kayfuns all around 1.5-1.8 with an id of 2mm. I have gotten one out of four kayfun 4 that have worked decent out of the box. I changed the #16 oring on all four and only the blue one works correctly. Even with the new oring on the other ones they still gurgle but don't seem to leak like they did with the new oring. I ordered some oring kits from gearbest and plan on changing all of the orings on the other three to see if I can get them to work correctly.
     
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    TrollDragon

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    I received my EHPro Kayfun v4 yesterday morning from SweetVapes and so far its working very good. No leaks or flooding at all even after sitting over night with the JC open. The build quality is better then i was expecting, No rough threads.

    Right now i have a 1.65 ohm spaced coil using 28ga with a ID of 2.5 running at 11 watts. Any builds you guys can recommend i try with this atty?
    I run a 1 ohm 26g contact coil on 2.5mm ID @ 20W in one of mine all the time. Nice warmth and flavor.
    http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=1&hfnw=20&awg=26&id=2.5
     

    juicynoos

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    @SVrider Also got 2 from the same vendor. The quality is nice although IMO, a bit over-priced (EHPro loyalty). Had to clean them and remove some drilling debris as well as some fix's to the juice control tolerances which is just typical stuff. Installed the S kit in one and run it at 0.8 contact coil and the second one with regular airflow I use at 1.5 - 2 ohms with a silica figure 8 wick.
     
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    SLvapor

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    I have 2 clones that came in the original SM box and then a tobeco clone. The tobeco clone is the best I've had. The tobeco doesn't have the problem of the jc being loose because there is no screw in the base to be tightened. The threading is the best out of all I've had... with the others the jc would get often get stuck and occasionally would require pliers and a towel to loosen. It still had a minor leak under the jc ring but after a few wrap of dental floss I have had no problems. I use the 4s kit .76 ohm 24 gauge, ~3mm id @ ~20w with 100% vg. I also stuff the thing full of kogendo and let the cotton lightly touch the base. Before placing the guard around the coil I wet the cotton and press it against the post so that the cotton will not touch the guard ring to prevent the liquid from gathering on the walls before going to the wick. I chain vape and can finish a tank in less than 10 minutes (glass tank refill at bottom of glass). Just my experience but I love the thing. Also I change the wick out maybe every 4-7 days and it is only lightly caramelized. No dry hits, no gurgle. I heard smaller id, less cotton but in my experience I do just the opposite and it works. I use a wider bore drip tip.. makes the draw less cumbersome on the lungs imo. I do a mix between MTL and direct I guess.

    Also for jumpy resistance a stripped coax cable wrapped around a drill bit and replacing the spring is the cheapest diy and works wonders.

    Shout out to everyone at ECF with their great input and diy fixes!
     
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    SLvapor

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    1444852882405.jpg
    1444852924294.jpg

    Next to original.
     

    SLvapor

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    I used a drill bit that closely matched the ID of original spring then wrapped and pulled tight with pliers and vise grips. Might take a few try to get the height right as it is not "springy," but the resistance has never changed on a coil post fix for me (and 3ft of cord only cost like ~$3).
     
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