Causes of Short Circuits: All Equally Dangerous?

[DarrellG]

Understood. Thank ya.

 

[KenD]

A short is a short. And .2 is very low. Doesn't give you that much of a safety margin. Remember that the cdr of batteries decreases over time, particularly when batteries are pushed hard, and no ohm meters are 100% accurate, particularly when going low in resistance.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

Whilst it is low, I would feel more than comfortable with those batteries and that resistance of build. In fact, my ADV is a 0.2 build.

It's a judgement call we all have to make, but on decent cells I'd happily draw the 21a this build would use. That still leaves some headroom.

 

[mongo74]

.2 is pretty low, but as long as your battery is up to snuff, you're safe. Just bear in mind what KenD said, over time your cells CDR will fall, so pay close attention to your charge cycles. I probably wouldn't use the same cell more than 250 times in this scenario.

 

[mongo74]

More great stuff. Appreciate all this info, guys.

@mongo74 The delrin lining was the key selling point for me. Simple enough to give the wrap a good looking over, but I figured another layer of protection certainly can't hurt. This is the first I've heard of arcing. I get that building safe can easily avoid these hazards, but just for the sake of curiosity, are we talking about the potential for an arc across a distance of, say 1mm, or more like a distance where it practically looks like the coil is making contact?

Apologies if this is getting too pedantic, but if this info is out there I'm all ears.

There is no pedantry when it comes to safety.

It would really have to be right up against the sleeve to arc (think arc welding), as there is no short circuit protection in a mech. I believe the voltage/current is too low in a single cell mech for arcing to occur in a spark gap type of situation. (possibly if there's a .5 mm gap, but if you're that close, you're too close)

 

[mongo74]

Also, don't forget coils, like all metals, expand when heated. That 1mm gap disappears pretty quickly when you're vaping at high wattage.

 

[DarrellG]

Thanks, all.

@KenD I was factoring in a variance of .05 when I did the math -based on what I've read in a number of places I believe that's a safe estimation? If that put me at .15 build I personally feel alright with that based on what I know of those batteries and the testing I've seen. I'm sure we've all seen the same tests. That's my thinking at the moment anyway. I may bump it up to be safer. I do understand it could certainly be a problem if the mod malfunctioned. I'm not anticipating much over 2 second pulls FWIW. I absolutely hear ya on advocating safety in this instance. It's just smart, and I thank you for that. I will certainly keep my eye on how the batteries hold up over time.

@mongo74 Thanks for the info. And I totally get your point, "if you're that close you're too close." The expansion of coils is not something I had considered. Bottom line: I'll make sure my builds give me a safe tolerance from the posts and sleeve/afc, on par with what has customarily worked safely for others. If I have reservations, I ain't firing it.

 

[Kprthevapr]

The build I posted is:
24awg 6 wraps 2.5mm ID @ .28 built on a Goon RDA

I use this on a Rose Finch mech mod with a LG HE2 battery. I change my battery every couple of hours, there's a noticeable difference in the vape production when the battery gets below 50%.

 

[DarrellG]

Thanks, man. I have some 24 coming in a couple days (only have 22 at the moment).
Images can be deceiving. I was guessing it was 20 gauge!!
I'll give that build a go for sure.

 

[Kprthevapr]

Thanks, man. I have some 24 coming in a couple days (only have 22 at the moment).
Images can be deceiving. I was guessing it was 20 gauge!!
I'll give that build a go for sure.

Ima girl

 

[mongo74]

Hehehe

 

[DarrellG]

Ima girl

In fairness, I have a tendency to call everyone "man."
But duly noted for all future conversations, girl.

And thanks again to everyone. Amazing community here!

 

[Kprthevapr]

No worries, I've been called bro, dude and man. Could have a lot to do with my avatar I'm a die hard UFC fan

 

[KenD]

Thanks, all.

@KenD I was factoring in a variance of .05 when I did the math -based on what I've read in a number of places I believe that's a safe estimation? If that put me at .15 build I personally feel alright with that based on what I know of those batteries and the testing I've seen. I'm sure we've all seen the same tests. That's my thinking at the moment anyway. I may bump it up to be safer. I do understand it could certainly be a problem if the mod malfunctioned. I'm not anticipating much over 2 second pulls FWIW. I absolutely hear ya on advocating safety in this instance. It's just smart, and I thank you for that. I will certainly keep my eye on how the batteries hold up over time.

@mongo74 Thanks for the info. And I totally get your point, "if you're that close you're too close." The expansion of coils is not something I had considered. Bottom line: I'll make sure my builds give me a safe tolerance from the posts and sleeve/afc, on par with what has customarily worked safely for others. If I have reservations, I ain't firing it.

I don't see .2 as any kind of problem with 30 amp batteries, and I'd feel safe going that low with 25 amp ones as well. I just don't want people (especially new vapers coming here) thinking that .2Ω isn't low. We have a guy here who's pretty much said that .15Ω is totally ok as a first build, and that's worrisome. You seem to have a good handle on this though

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Ben85]

Don't worry Darrell, I think we all made that mistake at the beginning . It wasn't until I saw a mod in hand pic when I knew any differently. Mind you, I suppose a man could have nice nails too!

 

[mongo74]

UFC was great back in the day...I loved watching the Shamrock's in their prime.

Back to vaping: .2ohm is low, quite low in a hybrid/mech. As long as you realize there's a HUGE difference between the same build in a regulated mod vs a mech, you're on the right track.

 

[DarrellG]

No worries, I've been called bro, dude and man. Could have a lot to do with my avatar I'm a die hard UFC fan

UFC talk could easily derail this thread in a second.

@KenD I totally hear you. I've read plenty of your posts and think I have a solid notion of where you stand on this sort of thing. And it makes absolute sense. Better to err on the side of caution.

@Ben85 I fear it won't be the last time I make the mistake, despite my best effort.

 

[r055co]

There are very few of us mech mod users still around, so any chance to get a pic of someone else's mod is fun for us "ole timers"

There's a lot more of us around than you think
Mech's are wonderful and for me they provide a much smoother Vape, nothing like DC current without anything in the middle to degrade it.

I have the same mech, and a dead short caused by a 510 that's pushed in (or had the insulator melted off causing contact of the negative outer ring of the atomizer with the positive terminal of the cell) is the worst case scenario, other than putting the battery in upside down. While using a battery with a torn wrap is a huge no no with mechs, the delrin lining insde the Vgod is a last line of defense against a wrap with an unnoticed miniscule tear.

Bear in mind, even if you're an expert builder, you MUST ALWAYS use a meter or regulated mod to check your build and make sure there are no shorts (ie: coil touching posts or sleeve of atomizer) If you build to close to the sleeve of the RDA/RDTA, you run the risk of the coil literally arcing off the sleeve and burning it, and that can get ugly really quickly.

Play it safe, don't rush, triple check everything and enjoy that instantaneous hard hit a hybrid can deliver.

I always Vape a new build for a bit on a regulated mod before putting it on my Mech's.

 

[DarrellG]

I always Vape a new build for a bit on a regulated mod before putting it on my Mech's.

That's my plan as well. I don't have an actual ohm meter yet (need to do some more research), so my IPV5 is my ohm meter. I've put a past build on a friend's DNA200 mod and it was only .01 off, so I guess that gives me some assurance. I'll be building a bit higher than originally intended just to feel things out. If I desperately need a 120 watt blast I can just hop on my regulated.

 

[r055co]

That's my plan as well. I don't have an actual ohm meter yet (need to do some more research), so my IPV5 is my ohm meter. I've put a past build on a friend's DNA200 mod and it was only .01 off, so I guess that gives me some assurance. I'll be building a bit higher than originally intended just to feel things out. If I desperately need a 120 watt blast I can just hop on my regulated.

Get yourself a good Ohm Meter, the ones on regulated mods can be squirrely at times. I use USA Ohm Meters, they're about the most accurate out there.

Tubes are nice but I honestly prefer parallel and when I want to get rowdy I'll put a 0.5 or 0.6 ohm on one of my series Mod's.