GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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I figured!
Preference of battery still aw in 14500? I haven't seen any tests showing anything exceeds them. Have you
Yep, AW and Efests largely. I find no difference between the two btw.
Efests I have seen very hit and miss. Bill order three. One will be bad. The other meh. The third good. The 18500 efest new style purple seem good. But in other firm factors I haven't had great luck with them. Though quality control seems to be improving I'm guessing it has to do with how long they've sat on the shelves for less used sizes. The aw 14500 are very inexpensive anyway I've had good luck with mxjo across the board. I'm sure they're rewraps. Not sure what they're rewrapping. Some mods have issues with aw and low internal resistance (provape stuff and that other 14500 regulated temp
mod that just came out) for mechs though I don't seem to have any issues. Surprisingly the worst battery luck I had was Sony vtc5 (yes they were authentic) one went bad inside a month.
Anyway I'm always up for trying s new battery brand especially in the small capacity stuff where 10% more can actually make a big difference but thanks for confirming what I've seen. I received a mix of 14500 when I bought a used mod. But except the mxjo none seemed goodn hard to say if that was just due to age though.
I'd love to see the piccoloid in a slightly longer firm factor supporting 900 mah 14650 and only gaining 15mm length. I feel like for that little increase there should be some modification that would allow it to fit! Wishful thinking.
Cheers !
1. I have been using Efests since 2012. Every one of them performed/performs exactly like my AWs.
2. I have two mods which can take both 14650s and 14500s. I've found that between the two sizes the batt life gains just 15-20 minutes. Thus for a comfy shorter length ~ 14500s seem more worthy to me.
I've been using my Spheroid v4 for a month now and I love it! I only have one question: Periodically the wick burns completely in half. After a couple days of vaping, I'll pop the top to find that only the ends of the wick remain. The center of the wick has been burned off, leaving two separate pieces of wick on either end. What's the secret to preventing this?
PS: never had this issue with Spheroid v2 or v3. So there must be something new happening with the new model. Any advice appreciated!
It has happened to me with all versions of Spheroid and Heron on an occasional basis. The common factor is a twisted cotton under intense heat with a 2 mm coil which results in a dried centre due to poor wicking. Try not to twist your cotton too much or being too dense, especially with 2 mm coils. You may have to go lower in wattage to slow down the gunk build up, if there is an early formed burnt residue on it, which might be juice related (percentage of sugar sweeteners). For example, I vape GVC which builds up gung easily, so I avoid high wattage with this brand.
I have a GP ePAPS in my cart. Not sure what it is, but I'm sure i want one. Someone stop me!
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
We sold a few of them among others to be delivered in American soil before August 8 and the owners are under confidential agreement not to unveil them yet. The following products have been sent already under the same deal: GP® Dripper, GP® Dripper Pro, GP Heron® v3 and GP® Spheroid v5. All units are production models.
On the spheroid particularly do he inside wick. It wicks way better. Also that would say to me there's too Much wick. I've found the heron v2 to be cumbersome to properly wick as it can't do the easy upside down tails ( @qorax demonstrates this on a spheroid I believe in his first review and build of the v4). You can do it on the heron v2 but it's a VERY tight line between perfect and dry or flooding. The spheroid should imo always be wicked this way. Not only does it wick better the wick occupies chamber space and the vape becomes more dense and flavourful imo.
@perseus are you going to Release a dull bell Cap for the heron v2 that replaces the entire tank Top? Also is there a way to use the pnb kit on a seamless mod like the piccoloid or Hnp? Any chance you'd make an adapter that works with the drip tip? Maybe something that can go down into the chimney for security ? Also any thoughts on the below question about cleaning and shining without changing the finish - so ... Deep clean but not Polish ?
@All how do you return luster to your brushed devices. Even the sunshine cloths I think will create more shine no wanted. I was recommended to use the green side of a sponge with the pnb kit to return s nice brushed finish but my issue is I want to return s little shine but there is no damage - not even small scratches. Just s little patina or dulling. Maybe a complete dissemble and ultrasonic but what's after that and before sunshine cloths ?
Finally. I went and saw The Truth About Pets today. It opened with w minion short. Then I realized mY tank savers had slid around a bit and I was trying s new drip tip. Maybe it's the recent short film But this looks like a minion to
Me. Maybe GP is being served and helped to make the great devices!! Is it me? Minions??
Mello!!
Probably need sleep yah
Man I hope I don't get a case of heron envy. Or piccoloid need. I just want to Get my heron wicking down so I can get it right every time.
found a new go to build for the heron
Probably buried he lead on this in the long post but..
I'm was Working on a post for you all about sa build a friend and I found that makes the heron from Great to ah-maaaaazzzz-ing
At the core is the newly available Clapton wire from lightening vapes. 28 kanthal single core wrapped with 36 kanthal or 28 stainless wrapped with 36 kanthal.
It's so nice to have Clapton wire for mouth to lung vapers. If you haven't tried it. So so. Coupon code OHMSWEETOHM - id get the kanthal kanthal unless you like long coils from
Outer edge to outer edge or builds around .6 ohm. This works for restricted direct lung like you @qorax . K/k 6 wrap 2mm if with native wicks platinum is the fantastic in the heron v2. The stainless needs about 9. Fortunately wrapped in kanthal it can be a contact coil.
I realize that $11/25' (12.xxm) of wire seems expensive. It's important to note that Clapton wire lasts FOREVER. I use 4-5" to make a coil for the heron. When it's time I pull the wick. Give s little dry fire and a quick dip under a controlled faucet (some prefer a dunk in a cup). The wire returns to like new. In fact I'd argue that it is better when the wire is "seasoned". If you like the build you won't be rewrapping wire for months if you don't feel like it. That in mind 25' making 50 coils that all last let's say a minimum of two weeks (if you're ridiculously particular or anti dry burn). You're at two years of coils for $11. Most mech mod users will want kanthal core. Make sure you get 28/36 not 26/32 ke some other. The benefit of a six wrap 28/36 kanthal build is there is negligible heat up time I like many Clapton builds. It's not like firing 30 gauge builds but it's certainly not slow. I don't think many would object to the negligible increase in first fire heat up when you realize the increase in vapor density, volume , and most importantly flavor.
I recommended Lightning vapes as I have never seen 28:36 anywhere else. They ship quickly and their wire is very good imo
Epaps has to be a regulated paps mod. - maybe temp control ?
Hi buddy!
The Heron v2 is discontinued and replaced by the upcoming version 3, so no other changes for the previous version.
The ePaps is a regulated mod with temp control and that's all for now
Hi buddy!
The Heron v2 is discontinued and replaced by the upcoming version 3, so no other changes for the previous version.
The ePaps is a regulated mod with temp control and that's all for now
I'm not sure about the v1 to v2 or any of your other rta - have the parts been cross compatible like your 510 and switches? Did v2 tanks fit he v1 and is there cross comparability with v3 parts to the v2 or the redesign forced too many differences ?
Opinion on the path to take for cleaning without disturbing the nice uniform brush and whether the pnb works in any way on your sea else combos. - seems not. A tool to mount a piccoloid or HnP would be great.
Congrats on all the new products!! How exciting. A lot of work to beat the deadline here in the USA.
Wow. A paps with temp control. Son of a gun. You just blew two other purchase I was going to make. I wonder how many cake days will pass before I can get in before the rest of the faithful - and random heathens .
---
Here's the Clapton build.
I really can't stress enough that my friend from here and I both feel this build in the heron feel that it elevates the already excellent rta to legend status. We both feel that we will never do another build in the device now. Ever.
Clapton wire / wick
Wetting just the center of the wick allows you to turn it up to wick internally with the cap it also allows the fluffy wick to settle naturally against the inside of the wicking holes. Preventing flooding or dry hits.
When you align it properly and push the top cap down it perfectly walls off the wick holes. It takes practice to get the right length. I cut inside the outside of the atomizer base. A few tries makes it clear. Wicking this way is he best way imo for those using thick juice
I had to wet he whole wick for the sake of photos. Nothing else showed up. You can do it that way too just make sure the wick bows out
(_) <--- like that.
This is how it starts to push against the inner wall as you place the top cap.
I hope that helps some.
Lightening vapes 28/36 kanthal / kanthal Clapton wire.
6 wraps 6/5 2mm id contact coil
Native wick platinum blend - see below if you're unfamiliar and a non believer in buying repackaged cotton products - cuz I was right there with you. Cotton bacon opened my mind. And some applications I still prefer cotton bacon. But GP products shine with native wicks for hay reason and due to the intelligence in this thread I'll take a moment to show the product and state my observations etc. so the rest if lite not interested in wick evangelism or ever changing even if something may be better or if you object to the fact you buy small portions and don't know where they source it / can't buy bulk.
I hope some of you try this build. I really think ou mouth to lung and restricted direct lung vapers will approximate it as Much as we do.
I apologize for the long posts. I sure some of you already tried this build. For those who haven't. Do!
---
About native wicks.
Here is an example of native wicks out of bag and how much it expands. For a 2mm coil a 4 inch piece will make easily twenty coils. If you're thrifty you can double that by cutting in halves not centering and wasting half by cutting 1/4 off each side. You get three feet for $6-7. You can decide for yourself. I like cotton bacon too. And I like kgd. I use rayon occasionally but native wicks has all the rayon benefit without the break in. I'm not here to convert anyone or say it will change your life. And yes it's more expensive than a lifetime sully of rayon or cotton pads. I believe it's worth it for me - until I figure or what exactly they're repackaging and buy from the source if possible.
. I can say I was vehemently against "vaping cotton" as a widespread con - but a few trials of various materials did start to open my mind. This changed it. So try it if you've been resistant to the idea one cotton can be better than anotherOut of package - once the vacuum seal breaks it starts to expand
Starting to fluff after cutting a few inches. I used a 22mm tank that was handy for a size comparison. Sorry GP I was vaping yours!
You can unroll it even - that's a LOT of cotton. I'm 6'5" (197cm iirc) and my hand is around 8 inches from base to middle finger - for size reference.
As you can see from the spool it how it's used is vastly different. And so far I haven't found anything better. In the heron and spheroidI find I can wick pretty thick and it solved a lot
Of my wicking issues.
** numerous edits as I had to edit. Check. Add photos. Sorry.
Here's the Clapton build. - it's around 1 ohm.
I really can't stress enough that my friend from here and I both feel this build in the heron feel that it elevates the already excellent rta to legend status. We both feel that we will never do another build in the device now. Ever.
Clapton wire / wick
Wetting just the center of the wick allows you to turn it up to wick internally with the cap it also allows the fluffy wick to settle naturally against the inside of the wicking holes. Preventing flooding or dry hits. This is typically not necessary if you're using 70% or less VG but it can decrease space inside the chamber which can focus flavor and increase density in my experience. With very thin juice > 50% PG you may get flooding issues wicking like this - not sure. For thick juice it's THE way to go imo
When you align it properly and push the top cap down it perfectly walls off the wick holes. It takes practice to get the right length. I cut inside the outside of the atomizer base. A few tries makes it clear. Wicking this way is the best way imo for those using thick juice
I had to wet the whole wick for the sake of photos. Nothing else showed up. You can do it that way too just make sure the wick bows out
(_) <--- like that.
This is how it starts to push against the inner wall as you place the top cap.
I hope that helps some.
Lightening vapes 28/36 kanthal / kanthal Clapton wire.
6 wraps 6/5 2mm id contact coil
Native wick platinum blend - see below if you're unfamiliar and a non believer in buying repackaged cotton products - cuz I was right there with you. Cotton bacon opened my mind. And some applications I still prefer cotton bacon. But GP products shine with native wicks for hay reason and due to the intelligence in this thread I'll take a moment to show the product and state my observations etc. so the rest if lite not interested in wick evangelism or ever changing even if something may be better or if you object to the fact you buy small portions and don't know where they source it / can't buy bulk.
I hope some of you try this build. I really think ou mouth to lung and restricted direct lung vapers will approximate it as Much as we do.
I apologize for the long posts. I sure some of you already tried this build. For those who haven't. Do!
---
About native wicks. Skip this if you don't care. You've been warned. And o I don't want to argue about wicks. This is hair my experience and opinion!! Ymmv
Here is an example of native wicks out of bag and how much it expands. For a 2mm coil a 4 inch piece will make easily twenty coils. If you're thrifty you can double that by cutting in halves not centering and wasting half by cutting 1/4 off each side. You get three feet for $6-7. You can decide for yourself. I like cotton bacon too. And I like kgd. I use rayon occasionally but native wicks has all the rayon benefit without the break in. I'm not here to convert anyone or say it will change your life. And yes it's more expensive than a lifetime sully of rayon or cotton pads. I believe it's worth it for me - until I figure or what exactly they're repackaging and buy from the source if possible.. I can say I was vehemently against "vaping cotton" as a widespread con - but a few trials of various materials did start to open my mind. This changed it. So try it if you've been resistant to the idea one cotton can be better than another out of package - once the vacuum seal breaks it starts to expand
Starting to fluff after cutting a few inches. I used a 22mm tank that was handy for a size comparison. Sorry GP I was vaping yours!
You can unroll it even - that's a LOT of cotton. I'm 6'5" (197cm iirc) and my hand is around 8 inches from base to middle finger - for size reference.
As you can see from the spool it how it's used is vastly different. And so far I haven't found anything better. In the heron and spheroidI find I can wick pretty thick and it solved a lot of my wicking issues.
** numerous edits as I had to edit. Check. Add photos. Sorry.
I really can't stress enough that my friend from here and I both feel this build in the heron feel that it elevates the already excellent rta to legend status. We both feel that we will never do another build in the device now. Ever.
Clapton wire / wick
Wetting just the center of the wick allows you to turn it up to wick internally with the cap it also allows the fluffy wick to settle naturally against the inside of the wicking holes. Preventing flooding or dry hits. This is typically not necessary if you're using 70% or less VG but it can decrease space inside the chamber which can focus flavor and increase density in my experience. With very thin juice > 50% PG you may get flooding issues wicking like this - not sure. For thick juice it's THE way to go imo
When you align it properly and push the top cap down it perfectly walls off the wick holes. It takes practice to get the right length. I cut inside the outside of the atomizer base. A few tries makes it clear. Wicking this way is the best way imo for those using thick juice
I had to wet the whole wick for the sake of photos. Nothing else showed up. You can do it that way too just make sure the wick bows out
(_) <--- like that.
This is how it starts to push against the inner wall as you place the top cap.
I hope that helps some.
Lightening vapes 28/36 kanthal / kanthal Clapton wire.
6 wraps 6/5 2mm id contact coil
Native wick platinum blend - see below if you're unfamiliar and a non believer in buying repackaged cotton products - cuz I was right there with you. Cotton bacon opened my mind. And some applications I still prefer cotton bacon. But GP products shine with native wicks for hay reason and due to the intelligence in this thread I'll take a moment to show the product and state my observations etc. so the rest if lite not interested in wick evangelism or ever changing even if something may be better or if you object to the fact you buy small portions and don't know where they source it / can't buy bulk.
I hope some of you try this build. I really think ou mouth to lung and restricted direct lung vapers will approximate it as Much as we do.
I apologize for the long posts. I sure some of you already tried this build. For those who haven't. Do!
---
About native wicks. Skip this if you don't care. You've been warned. And o I don't want to argue about wicks. This is hair my experience and opinion!! Ymmv
Here is an example of native wicks out of bag and how much it expands. For a 2mm coil a 4 inch piece will make easily twenty coils. If you're thrifty you can double that by cutting in halves not centering and wasting half by cutting 1/4 off each side. You get three feet for $6-7. You can decide for yourself. I like cotton bacon too. And I like kgd. I use rayon occasionally but native wicks has all the rayon benefit without the break in. I'm not here to convert anyone or say it will change your life. And yes it's more expensive than a lifetime sully of rayon or cotton pads. I believe it's worth it for me - until I figure or what exactly they're repackaging and buy from the source if possible.
. I can say I was vehemently against "vaping cotton" as a widespread con - but a few trials of various materials did start to open my mind. This changed it. So try it if you've been resistant to the idea one cotton can be better than another out of package - once the vacuum seal breaks it starts to expand
Starting to fluff after cutting a few inches. I used a 22mm tank that was handy for a size comparison. Sorry GP I was vaping yours!
You can unroll it even - that's a LOT of cotton. I'm 6'5" (197cm iirc) and my hand is around 8 inches from base to middle finger - for size reference.
As you can see from the spool it how it's used is vastly different. And so far I haven't found anything better. In the heron and spheroidI find I can wick pretty thick and it solved a lot of my wicking issues.
** numerous edits as I had to edit. Check. Add photos. Sorry.
Thank you very much for the pictorial!
The Heron v3 has no compatible parts with v2 and the same is happening for v1.5 compared to v2.
The Heron v3 has no compatible parts with v2 and the same is happening for v1.5 compared to v2.
And to maintain the Hnp and piccoloid / not wishing to change the finish but to get a good clean - sunshine cloths and cape cod both change the finish. Green side of a sponge is for "rebrushing" so what's more than damp microfiber or sonic clean but less than polishing?
And can pnb be used to hold the full Hnp or piccoloid? Piccoloid is probably ready for a redo. If I do it in parts then I'll break the seamless and probably need to Polish the AFC to make it look right.
Sorry - I mixed my questions in with long posts. Sorry for the repeats. And the long posts. I do hope the pictorial and long posts help. If one person tries and loves hat build - worth it!
Also Isn't the cut off before August 8? I guess if they were sold on your site before hen you're fine. Clever boy.
So. GP ultraportable squonk mod - August 8 surprise ? We can dream
The PnB requires a 510 connection, so the HnP/Piccoloid as a hybrid can be refreshed only by us, but you can try it with a Paps top cap/ Piccolo top cap in the place of the switch with the PnB attached to it. Or rub it with scotch-brite to maintain a brushed finish.
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