Orion V2 roll call
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Is there a way to convert the Orion v2's into purely mechanical mods? I have had four replacement switches from Pailpoe now for me and my partners Orions and now yet the micro switch has failed.
Would be amazing if there was a way to mod these to mechanical and bypass Pailpoes P.O.S. switch.
Would be amazing if there was a way to mod these to mechanical and bypass Pailpoes P.O.S. switch.
Carol, I have a bag full of them also. I was planning on tearing one down and looking into either a rebuild or a way to replace it with a mechanical. I only pay attention to a few threads here nowadays, and this is one since the Orion series are my fav 18xxx hybrid, so if I get some time over the winter I will come up with something. If I do I will let you know.
That would be great JR. I have had to order another one from Pailpoe tonight, another fifteen euros.
Absolutely peeved with this switch system, it seems the switch fails after use without any leakage getting into it, just by normal use.
I have three of the broken switches here in front of me, I took a photo to show though can not find the code to link them on flickr anymore.
It seems a stupidly overcomplicated system, I mean wth is the chip in there for? Plus the micro switch itself is proven weak.
Sorry I had best stop typing, with the having to fork out for another and flickr ...... me off for the last twenty minutes I am vexed.
Truly would be wonderful to not have to gift Pailpoe fifteen euros once or twice a year. (Through normal use and no leakage, I might add.)
With the current button I can not see a way to do away with the micro switch.
Come on Orion owners, thinking caps ahoy.
Absolutely peeved with this switch system, it seems the switch fails after use without any leakage getting into it, just by normal use.
I have three of the broken switches here in front of me, I took a photo to show though can not find the code to link them on flickr anymore.
It seems a stupidly overcomplicated system, I mean wth is the chip in there for? Plus the micro switch itself is proven weak.
Sorry I had best stop typing, with the having to fork out for another and flickr ...... me off for the last twenty minutes I am vexed.
Truly would be wonderful to not have to gift Pailpoe fifteen euros once or twice a year. (Through normal use and no leakage, I might add.)
With the current button I can not see a way to do away with the micro switch.
Come on Orion owners, thinking caps ahoy.
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I had a switch last almost a 9 months, then I took everything apart to have my 2.1 refinished. When I put it together, poof, switch bad. Replacement has been in there since April, knock on wood.
I think you are trying to motivate me. I am pretty sure I can replace it with a straight micro switch. A mechanical may be a different story.
I think you are trying to motivate me. I am pretty sure I can replace it with a straight micro switch. A mechanical may be a different story.
I'm having huge problems, when I first got my Orion v2.1 I was making wicks and coils left and right and now all of a sudden I can't get rid of a hot spot that is usually the very top wire that connect to the center post. I am using 500 stainless steal mesh with 30 gauge wire. It's been a month since I wrapped a correct mesh and coil. All I get is this wonderful taste then next hit is all burnt wire. Can someone help me on what I am doing wrong, cause I'm almost at the point that I'm going to sell it since I can't vape it. Any help would be appreciated.
I would ask in the general vaping as the problem is with your set up technique not specifically the Orion.
Regardless, it seems you have a problem with wicking and I am not surprised with #500 mesh. Get yourself some 350 or 400.
What size mesh are you rolling? I find around 20mm or less width is best, (For the Orions sized wick hole.) produces a not too tight, nice straw wick.
Apart from that, get all the coils firing on a dry set up, then you should good to go.
Best of Luck, keep at it, you'll get it.
Regardless, it seems you have a problem with wicking and I am not surprised with #500 mesh. Get yourself some 350 or 400.
What size mesh are you rolling? I find around 20mm or less width is best, (For the Orions sized wick hole.) produces a not too tight, nice straw wick.
Apart from that, get all the coils firing on a dry set up, then you should good to go.
Best of Luck, keep at it, you'll get it.
the pics don't do much justic, as the flash kinda take the glowing coil away.
Since my coils last so long it seems I loose my touch sometimes. The last coil on my Orion didn't go as smoothly and then I noticed something; the nut on the positive post worked a little loose. Make sure at least a couple/few threads are showing on that! It makes a huge difference.
Hard to see much in those.....check all common stuff....wick not touching bottom of tank of post inside tank or in the atty area....the washers can sometimes get ya if your not careful. Make sure your wick is standing straight....if it leans in much then those washers or spring may get ya. Take a jewelers screw driver and pulse fire dry....move your coils around....the problem may not be the top coil but one of the bottom coils causing the top to get hot while the others not so much. It's okay to fire and adjust while firing at the same time....it sometimes makes it easier. I just pulled my SS cable, torched and recoiled today....using 28awg equivalent ribbon....once you conquer the Orion a few times rebuilding will be a snap. Don't give up....get stubborn and determined to not let that thing beat you....the rewards will make it worth the time and effort.
HELP!!! ok not new to orions, but new to replacing switches, V2.1 went to clean out so dismantled, went to put switch back in and smelled it burnt, put in same exact as dismantled have watched all videos i could find etc. So fast forward i have 2 new switches now, but each one i put in with battery in correct way seems to auto-fire, measuring the positive post and post in tank area measure 2.1v with fully charges batteries, without pushing button on orion why are these doing this
Sounds like you're putting the battery in backwards. The nipple of the batter faces down and the flat part pushes against the spring of the switch.
I'm having a hard time with my Orion v2.1. It seems like once in 100 tries I get rid of all hot spots. But the main hotspot I get is the very top part of the wire that connects to the nut and washer, so I find myself taking quick draws here and there before the hotspot gets hot enough to cause a burnt taste. I tried a method where you wrap a rolling paper around the dry wick and let all the coils burn the paper away and this creates carbon between the coil and wick. And that worked like a charm for a few hours then all of a sudden the hot spot appeared again out of no where. When I bought my Orion v2.1 off of facebook mod trader it came with this center post that screws perfectly down where the spring and nut and washers go but it leaves no room to wrap coil in it. So what is the point of this piece that came with the Orion? It was to be made for the Orion and not something the guy just through in but it doesn't serve a purpose and I can't find a youtube video where anyone is showing how to use it or even showing what it is. Does anyone know what that small long piece of metal that has grooves in it and makes it screw where the nuts and spring goes? Also, how the hell do I get rid of that top coil hot spot. I seem to be wasting so much juice just trying to fix the hotspot. Are there brass nuts I can buy that will take away hotspots easier? I can only take a drag or two at a time before it hotspots them i let it cool down and take another two vapes. It shouldn't work like that and I'm about to sell it for a Zen mod but is the zen mod just as difficult as the Orion when it comes to hotspots? I really don't like the bottom button and that is why I bought the Orion because of the switch feels more natural. I'm using 500 mesh and 28 gauge. I been using a small round piece of metal to roll my wick before oxidizing it and I'm making it a little smaller than the Orion hole as was suggested but still a hotspot at the top wire that goes into the washer and nut.
Let me make it clear I can get rid of the hopspots before I put juice in the tank and start vaping. It's once the juice is wicking the top wire starts making a hotspot and instead of taking the juice out of the tank and making a whole new wick and coil, I just fiddle with the coils to try and get it to stop making a hotspot. If no one knows what that center post is I'm talking about it I will post a pick tomorrow of it and of it screwed onto the Orion mod and how it serves no purpose to me anyhow.
Let me make it clear I can get rid of the hopspots before I put juice in the tank and start vaping. It's once the juice is wicking the top wire starts making a hotspot and instead of taking the juice out of the tank and making a whole new wick and coil, I just fiddle with the coils to try and get it to stop making a hotspot. If no one knows what that center post is I'm talking about it I will post a pick tomorrow of it and of it screwed onto the Orion mod and how it serves no purpose to me anyhow.
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For some reason I read that you were knew to Orion. Ok, so the switches are burning up without you even pushing the button, Am I correct? and when you read the voltage it's reading at 2.1volts? Did you buy the switches directly from vaporwall brand new. It could be an error in the way Palilop (sorry for the misspelling) is making the switches. I've only had my Orion a few months and I bought 3 switches from him so far just to stock pile and they all worked fine but this was months ago. You need someone with some real expserience to help you. While were at this, do you think you could read my post above and give me any pointers?
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