TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

[pevinsghost]

I'm back to 430 myself. I've found that with twisting, I don't have to bother with annealing at all, just twist then throw on the kuro coiler.

The coiler is a little tricky, but I got it down pat now. If you put constant tight pressure on the ends, like you're coiling non twisted, the wraps will overlap.

With twisted 430 I have to basically just twist, no pressure on the ends of the coiler at all, and let it do what it wants. After I'm done, there will be one super loose wrap at the beginning end of the coil, I unwrap that with two pair of needle nose to make a leg, mount and wick, and I'm done.

Also finally got around to trying rayon which I'm loving too.

 

[dwcraig1]

I didn't clean my not-fethal for my today's torch test. I saw some flakes on it glowing as I heated it, perhaps that was what I thought was oxidation flaking off. Maybe I'll repeat the test tomorrow with cleaned not-fethal.
I changed the name a bit to avoid confusion with the real deal.

So today I cleaned the not-fethal and saw no glowing particles on the wire as I was torching it.
I got one of those Aromamizer tanks yesterday and coiled it with Kanthal just to get it up and running. Today I had planned to twist 3 strands of Dicodes NiFe30 but am going to use the Not-fethal untwisted instead.

 

[Croak]

I have a suggestion for a new name for the Unkamen stuff, by the way. Neinfethal. And hit the first syllable HARD and FAST, like you're .......

 

[pbanj]

I have a suggestion for a new name for the Unkamen stuff, by the way. Nienfethal. And hit the first syllable HARD and FAST, like you're .......

So like if ur are german [emoji14]

 

[Croak]

So like if ur are german [emoji14]

Jawohl!

 

[Landman]

I forgot to ask what device it was on when it jumped out of temp mode?

That build should ohm at .25 & wouldn't be a huge watt gobbler 30 should light it quick in fact that build would work great on a tube mech (that's if the Subtank RBA will wick fast enough).
Not familiar with the 7ml subtank, but if it's the same RBA deck as the subtank mini & you have the bottom feed channel version I wouldn't put it on the mech. I've drilled the chamber sleeve on a few of the old style ST RBA's 2.5mm hole directly above wick channels & just a little below coil center line. They work pretty good then.

One other thing that may cause a ST RBA to jump out of TC mode is that the 510 center pin in the lower portion of the tank is press fit so if your tank ever had a disposable coil head even a couple thousands deeper then the rest it pushes the pin down slightly. Then if the RBA deck is a few thou shallower then the disposable heads the positive pin bottom might not have good contact with the top of the center pin. I Had this happen on a Crown Tank.

DNA200's - Hotcig, custom 3D print DIY, and Opus have all jumped out of TC. Yep, same deck as the subtank mini. We have several of them and they've worked fine with Ni200/Ti/SS430. It's definitely something with the wire and TCR values.

 

[pbanj]

DNA200's - Hotcig, custom 3D print DIY, and Opus have all jumped out of TC. Yep, same deck as the subtank mini. We have several of them and they've worked fine with Ni200/Ti/SS430. It's definitely something with the wire and TCR values.

The unkamen 52 crap? It did that on my xcube also. Not only did it do that but the resistance jumped up over 3ohm and stayed there, checked on 3 mods. It was a twisted coil, I checked and connections were fine..........

 

[2legsshrt]

Well what can you expect from wire made specifically for jewelry. He could get away with not refunding if he was an A hole. Luckily hes not.

 

[2legsshrt]

If this NiFe48 is really all that I may order 50m for Vapocolypse. Hey if I ordered some spare boards for my SXM's suppose I could find someone to install them if needed.

 

[pbanj]

If this NiFe48 is really all that I may order 50m for Vapocolypse. Hey if I ordered some spare boards for my SXM's suppose I could find someone to install them if needed.

If u can't find a local person u can send them to me to install for u.

 

[JimScotty0]

Can anyone point me to a post, or explain in detail:
How to do the "water test". I'm using a LavaBox DNA200.
Thanks!

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...aping-and-safety.664753/page-46#post-15915208

 

[Eric Auer]

Well what can you expect from wire made specifically for jewelry. He could get away with not refunding if he was an A hole. Luckily hes not.

As you said, the man sells Jewelry wire.

Honestly don't see why he should refund it if it is used for Vaping and it does not work out for that.....And that would hardly make him a A hole.

Eric

 

[DroopyDroors]

Well what can you expect from wire made specifically for jewelry. He could get away with not refunding if he was an A hole. Luckily hes not.

He is very aware that the vaping community wanted this wire and that is why he had it milled. He should return every bit due to the fact of it being mislabeled. He is calling it Kanthal Nife52 which it is not. It may be some sort of Nife52 but by no means is it Kanthal brand. Kanthal is a name brand wire company that makes many differant types of wires. We in the industry just say it's a type of wire but that is not the case. But none the less he realise there is a problem with the wire and is trying to get it fixed. If you ask for a refund you will receive it.

 

[BrentMydland]

As you said, the man sells Jewelry wire.

Honestly don't see why he should refund it if it is used for Vaping and it does not work out for that.....And that would hardly make him a A hole.

Eric

We didn't just find a random jewelery seller who happened to have nifethal. He originally carried ti and vapers started buying it from him because he had it in small amounts in usuable gauges and was cheap. He didn't originally carry nifethal. The only reason he got the nifethal was because us vapers specifically asked for him to start carrying it and he went and got it made just for us. It has no application for jewelery making. He got it solely for us because we said we wanted it. He was trying to be accomodating and help us out but it just didn't pan out and we all got something we weren't expecting. Everyone ended up getting screwed, himself included so its not like he is going to sell the rest off to jewelery makers. If vapers aren't buying the nifethal then no one is. So essentially he is stuck with a lot of useless wire no one can use. I actually feel bad for the guy. He tried to help us out because we said if he gets it we will buy it, got the wrong thing because he doesn't know anything about this vape stuff, and now has a ton of useless product no one wants and a bunch of vapers ...... off acting like he did it intentionally. He is refunding because it is the right thing to do. We didn't get what we asked for but I think he should also be insisting the mill eat the cost and or fix the stuff and make it the right way. I'm sure the guy feels terrible about the whole thing (not to mention the substanial loss he is taking).

 

[JimScotty0]

NienFethal Testing
I did some testing with the newly infamous NiFe52, aka NienFethal wire I recently received from UnkamenSupplies. I have their 24, 26, and 28ga so called Kanthal NiFe52 wire and I did the testing as careful as I could trying to be accurate in my measurements. I allowed everything to cool down properly during each TC test.

First thing I must say is that this wire is stiff. Much stiffer than the sample 24ga 317L SS they sent me. Even stiffer than my SpiderSilk Ti. So I did all my testing on my SXM, current v2.32 firmware with TCR and ambient temp corrections and my Aromamizer using the Velocity 2 post deck. I feel this tank base has good contact with the mod and a fairly low static resistance which I tested out to be somewhere around .00754 ohms with my testing which should be a minimal factor with this experiment.

So I first made 3 10" lengths (254mm) of each of my 3 wire sizes and measured the resistance as follows before any heat treatments and after some pulsing to discolor the wire. I placed and securely tightened the loop of wire around the bottom holes on the posts. Around 20 watts during the pulsing.

Raw Unheated Heat Treated
24ga - 1.027 ohms 1.008 ohms (about 2% reduction)
26ga - 1.668 ohms 1.601 ohms (about 4% reduction)
28ga - 2.885 ohms 2.760 ohms (about 4.5% reduction)

As you can see the wire heat treatments did reduce the resistance of the wire a little bit and did make the wire a little more malleable to wind a coil.

I chose the 26ga NienFethal wire for the coiling and built 2 coils for the Aromamizer Velocity 2 post deck as 2mm, using 7 wraps and mounted the 2 coils. The coils kept their shape very well but I pulled them apart to make them spaced by about 1/3mm. Pulling them apart was fairly difficult as they kept their shape and placement very well after coiling on my Coil Master. They tightened down fairly well without any wire breaking but they did have a tendency to not want to budge to fit them into the 4 post holes. They weighed in with around a .223 ohm resistance on the SXM.

Next I gave them some pulsing to get them to glow slightly red and they did so from the middle outward just as they should. Rechecked the coils for tightness on the posts and all was good. They now settled in at a steady .209 ohms.

Water Testing
I wicked up the 2 26ga NienFethal coils with my favorite, Pima Cotton and gave the wick plenty of room to pull back and forth so not too tight or loose either. The wicks sit in a nice well which is bottom fed by an outer well which I filled with water after saturating the wicks. Plenty of water and no chance of dry wicking.

I set the SXM in Standard TC mode running 24J at 212F. It was locked in at .209 ohms with an ambient temperature offset of 22C (71.6F) which is pretty close to the 72% of actual temperature I read in my work area. I first tried a TCR of .00185 and then .00145 which were readings that a few folks posted they were trying this wire at. In both cases I could never even come close to 212F but fell short as follows:

TCR - .00185 - 100F-105F
TCR - .00145 - 134F-140F

I lowered the power to 24J so it would not overshoot and drop down as I played around trying to find the magic TCR number to get it to read 212F and here are my results:

TCR - .00120 - 195F-203F
TCR - .00116 - 212F
TCR - .00112 - 212F
TCR - .00108 - 212F+

This wire didn't seem to be too stable as it was fluctuating around slightly but if I had to call a TCR value for this 26ga NienFethal wire I would call it at .00114 value.

Next I tried the dry wick test. I set my temp to 400F which is where I usually run at and the power to 32J and I proceeded to dry up all the water that was still left in the Pima Cotton. I fired and fired and it dried up every bit of water and then gave the Dry Coil, No Liquid warnings. The cotton was not even singed a bit but did have some very slight brown discoloring which I think may be some leaching from the coil metals coming in contact with the water. It was good old SoCal tap water so maybe something from the hard water we have here.

Vape Test
With the ultimate goal of how does she vape... Well that may take a bit longer to really give an opinion that means anything, but so far it isn't bad at all. I have been mostly vaping 24ga Ti twisted with 32ga Kanthal on my Aromamizer so this 26ga NienFethal will be a little different anyway. I am running it now at 32J set to 400F and will probably adjust as I get a feel for this wire. The vape is slightly warm, very good vapor production, and not bad flavor. I am using my own DIY at 25pg/75vg which is a caramel candy apple with a touch of vanilla and it is enjoyable and steady so far.

Bumped it up to 420F to try and get more warmth and I am starting to taste metal. Brought it down to 410F and after a few pulls I got a dry coil warning. I took out the deck and all looks good so I don't know what that was about. Using the Aromamizer steady for the last few week and I have never experienced a dry coil message.

Now that it is breaking in further I am seeing that the temperature is only reaching 383F even with 40J of power so that may be all she goes. So I set it for 385F and running 32J and it is about right. I guess I am just out of luck if I want more heat. BTW... I am using a freshly charged Sony v5 so I know it isn't lacking power as the batter bar is halfway when firing it.

Final Thoughts
I have no idea what this wire is but I am sure it has none of the characteristics of Kanthal NiFe52. It is stiff like non-annealed Ti, has a TCR close to Mercury, and has a resistance that is very similar to SS 317L. The taste doesn't appear to be as clean as the Ti that I have become accustomed. I don't think I would even try this wire on my eVic VTC Mini since it only does Ni and Ti and no TCR setting and this wire is special. How long will it last? Easy to dry burn? Is it safe? Good questions.

Now I will sit back, read any comments, and try to enjoy the vape.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

If it is to be renamed, it should be Neinfethal not Nienfethal... Lol

How about NoFethal or NoFeAtAll...tee hee!!

 

[Croak]

The problem with "NoFeAtAll", while catchy, is that the problem seems to be that it has too MUCH Fe.

 

[JimScotty0]

The problem with "NoFeAtAll", while catchy, is that the problem seems to be that it has too MUCH Fe.

I am leaning in that direction myself after my experience with testing. The TCR just seems way too low if it really had 52% of Nickel.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

The problem with "NoFeAtAll", while catchy, is that the problem seems to be that it has too MUCH Fe.

Yeah I know. Nein is No in German so same problem lol!

How about NoNithal?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Is it possible it is Invar? 36% Ni rest iron.. Can't find a tcr for it....