Always liked the look and feel of the VTC Mini, but I no longer buy any mods that do NOT have upgradable firmware and ability to set a wire TCR. Now that it CAN do "TCR", just ordered one from MVS (myvaporstore.com). They have stock on the newer models with the "TRON" tank, in all the colors. This will be a good 2nd TC mod, and inexpensive backup to my VS DNA200. Thanks for the heads up @ "aldenf"
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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And apparently with the v3 firmware update, it is extremely accurate on Ti and SS modes.
I currently use a Koopor Mini and an IPV D2 as my backup devices (recently got a DNA200), but I might just have to buy the VTC Mini when I scrounge up some spare cash.
I'm hoping they get the firmware updates available for the RX200, a Reuleaux may be in my future.
Ok, I see by the video review, there are 3 memory slots to put in a TCR value. Seems to be FOUR digits. So what would one enter as an example for Titanium's "0.0035"? Don't understand the "range" in their graphic.
0350. Must first remove the decimal and everything before it. That leaves you with 0035. Next multiply it by 10. That nets 0350.
Hope that helps.
Here is ni200 at 0.0060 -> 0600. See how it works?
I'd suggest going to steam-engine.org for most wire TCRs and then convert the number to VTC mini-eese.
I may drop in the creators thread and ask him to make a converter for the Mini.
Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
Hope that helps.
Here is ni200 at 0.0060 -> 0600. See how it works?
I'd suggest going to steam-engine.org for most wire TCRs and then convert the number to VTC mini-eese.
I may drop in the creators thread and ask him to make a converter for the Mini.
Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
There are those that fault it for not being what is claimed. Personally, I love it. It is easy to work, durable, not prone to hot legs, has a high enough resistance to be useful for TC and has a high enough tcr to be useful as well. All in all a good wire. I have it in all of my atomizers now and some of the builds have over a month of solid vaping on them.
I have had the VTC Mini for two days now. Does it unseat my Vaporshark DNA200, well no, but for 25% the cost, it's a bargain, so today I ordered a 2nd one in black to compliment the all red one. I happen to like the little Tron tank, and get a fine vape with the little .4 ohm titanium prebuilt coil. Seems pretty accurate and bottom line ... It's all about the Vapor, and manual TCR entry!
So I am curious if anyone uses 430 SS and how it holds up over time compared to other wires. According to data sheets, 430 is supposed to be less corrosion resistant than 304/316 but its pitting and crevice corrosion resistance is about the same as 304. It can be used up to 1600F in intermittent usage.
The big advantage for vaping is it's nickel free (which is why it's slightly less corrosion resistant) and it also has a higher TCR (better for temp control). I am just concerned that I won't be able to dry burn it to clean it since I am pretty sure dry burning goes over 1000F (probably well over that depending on how long you pulse it). I don't think most people realize how hot our Kanthal coils get when we fire them dry.
A secondary concern is how corrosion resistant it is to the organic chemicals in our eliquid, especially when running at ~500F. I don't think anyone on earth really knows yet how eliquid (and heat) truly effects the metals in our attys, so it's all guesswork right now. 304/316 is probably OK in that regard, but the heat adds a variable. All stainless steels lose corrosion resistance with increased heat.
If 430 can be dry fired and cleaned it might be the perfect wire (at least as perfect as is easily attainable). I really wish metallurgists would help the e-cig community with materials studies. We really need those.
TL;DR -- Do you dry burn your 430 coils? If so, do they maintain their luster? Do they look worn or rusted or cracked? etc..
The big advantage for vaping is it's nickel free (which is why it's slightly less corrosion resistant) and it also has a higher TCR (better for temp control). I am just concerned that I won't be able to dry burn it to clean it since I am pretty sure dry burning goes over 1000F (probably well over that depending on how long you pulse it). I don't think most people realize how hot our Kanthal coils get when we fire them dry.
A secondary concern is how corrosion resistant it is to the organic chemicals in our eliquid, especially when running at ~500F. I don't think anyone on earth really knows yet how eliquid (and heat) truly effects the metals in our attys, so it's all guesswork right now. 304/316 is probably OK in that regard, but the heat adds a variable. All stainless steels lose corrosion resistance with increased heat.
If 430 can be dry fired and cleaned it might be the perfect wire (at least as perfect as is easily attainable). I really wish metallurgists would help the e-cig community with materials studies. We really need those.
TL;DR -- Do you dry burn your 430 coils? If so, do they maintain their luster? Do they look worn or rusted or cracked? etc..
This coil is months old, I have dry burned it exactly like I would kanthal (white hot) many times and it still performs flawlessly.
It's 430SS and is used on TC devices and in wattage mode as well.
It's 430SS and is used on TC devices and in wattage mode as well.
If you are really super concerned about reaction with juice, 317L will resist reacting with anything that wouldn't kill you instantly anyway, including all organic acids.
That low tcr can be rough to deal with, but there are quite a few mods it performs beautifully on at this point.
That low tcr can be rough to deal with, but there are quite a few mods it performs beautifully on at this point.
Thanks, guys. I just ordered a spool of 430 and a spool of 317L. 430 has the highest TCR of the readily available stainless steels. 317L has a higher TCR than both 316 grades, but lower than 304.
If 317L works well in temp control mode, then I will probably find myself using it most since it is the most corrosion resistant of all of the common grades. If not, then f1vefour's picture of a 430 coil gives me hope.
If 317L works well in temp control mode, then I will probably find myself using it most since it is the most corrosion resistant of all of the common grades. If not, then f1vefour's picture of a 430 coil gives me hope.
Fortunately, wire is relatively cheap, and it can be fun to play with the different material available.
316L was a pain on the xcube ii, but beautiful on my new dna200 device. I'm thinking some thicker 317L or maybe some NiFe will be my next purchase.
I've been working my way through what's out there, and frustration sets in occasionally, but more often than not it's just fun to see what works.
Merry Christmas everyone!
316L was a pain on the xcube ii, but beautiful on my new dna200 device. I'm thinking some thicker 317L or maybe some NiFe will be my next purchase.
I've been working my way through what's out there, and frustration sets in occasionally, but more often than not it's just fun to see what works.
Merry Christmas everyone!
According to SE, it's TCR is higher than 316, slightly lower than 304, and quite a bit lower than 430. This would make 316 the least accurate of the common SS wires.
Yeah those values (except for 430) are different from steam-engine's.
Where are you getting the 430 ss from? And the nifethal 70 from. Its been bit since caught up on this thread. Want to try some other wire besides titanium
Also have dna200s so I can change what need too
Also have dna200s so I can change what need too
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