Status
Not open for further replies.

vapealone

Senior Member
Jun 16, 2015
275
411
Sorry, @vapealone , of course I didn't use a clone for the test - the whole purpose was to use a genuine dna 40 for the tests.

Don't conclude so much so far though. Evolv say they implement the full Ni200 curve. I plan to test it with real Ni200 shortly. That will tell us more.
Evolv said a lot provided very little

And the fact that I got 0.0047 really worries me. Not to mention that your numbers agrees too well with a flat TCR model.
But you know what? I hope that I am wrong and paranoid and everything. Really. It is getting too much for my liking. I mean the Evolv issues.
Looking forward to your measurements
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: JeremyR

TheBloke

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
2,800
3,549
44
Brighton, UK
Evolv said a lot provided very little

And the fact that I got 0.0047 really worries me. Not to mention that your numbers agrees too well with a flat TCR model.
But you know what? I hope that I am wrong and paranoid and everything. Really. It is getting too much for my liking. I mean the Evolv issues.
Looking forward to your measurements

I do understand your concerns absolutely. But at the same time, I am fairly confident that Evolv have implemented the curve - the reason I started doing these Titanium tests at all is because we found, anecdotally, that genuine dna 40 devices needed a different and higher temp setting for Titanium than Chinese devices such as the Yihi chips and the ChiDNA 40 clones. At first we thought that might be pre-heat, but my testing rules that out : it doesn't arbitrarily pre-heat an already heated coil, in fact it's pretty damn great at keeping a heated coil at a static temperature regardless of how many times you release and re-press the fire button. I was very impressed with that.

I'll do a dna 40 / Ni200 test next so we'll get the info as soon as possible.
 

vapealone

Senior Member
Jun 16, 2015
275
411
I do understand your concerns absolutely. But at the same time, I am fairly confident that Evolv have implemented the curve - the reason I started doing these Titanium tests at all is because we found, anecdotally, that genuine DNA 40 devices needed a different and higher temp setting for Titanium than Chinese devices such as the Yihi chips and the ChiDNA 40 clones. At first we thought that might be pre-heat, but my testing rules that out : it doesn't arbitrarily pre-heat an already heated coil, in fact it's pretty damn great at keeping a heated coil at a static temperature regardless of how many times you release and re-press the fire button. I was very impressed with that.

I'll do a DNA 40 / Ni200 test next so we'll get the info as soon as possible.
Cool, thank you. Looking forward to it.


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheBloke

tchavei

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2014
4,765
8,710
Portugal
All right here it is. Background, testing method, data sheet if anyone wants it, and any further explanations will come later after sleep :) Should be fairly self explanatory in the meantime.

The Titanium used is Zivipf 0.39mm / 29G, already known to have approximate TCR 0.0035. Other Titaniums may vary (but hopefully not too much.)





Caveat: all testing done thus far is on dry coils; I so far assume this is relevant to wet coils / real vapes. But I will be doing further testing to validate that in due course.
Absolutely awesome. Thank you one more time :)

When you get the time, a few points above 185C would be great too (190,195,200C) although the two main temperatures I use (180C and 185C) are covered already :)

Great job Bloke :D

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheBloke

TheBloke

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
2,800
3,549
44
Brighton, UK
No problemo :)

I will try for higher, but need to think how to do it. The data you see above was about the third time I did all the measurements. The first times were fluctuating a lot more and I was ready to declare it was accurate but only in a 5°C range. Then I realised it was the tiny fluctuations in the probe position caused just by my pressing/releasing the button over and over.

I finally got a setup that kept the mod super tight and the probe super tight. I'm wedging the probe in place against the top of the middle of the coil, with a tight wrap of Muji cotton pulled until the probe is in the right place.

The problem is, by the time I got to 185°C / 240°C that cotton was starting to look - and worse, smell - pretty bad :) Pretty sure it would ignite going any higher.

If I can find something else that's non-conductive, and suitable for wedging the probe in place, with a higher temperature, I will try it.

If I can find something suitable I should be able to do two measurements higher - my probes are rated up to 260°C, which based on the current progression should allow a set temperature of up to 195°C.

It pretty much seems to be 7 or 8°C higher for each 5°C higher setting. So I do understand why @vapealone is worried it looks pretty linear.. Anyway we'll know more as soon as I can test more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tchavei

TheBloke

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
2,800
3,549
44
Brighton, UK
Speaking of which, this is the test setup:

Mod / Wire / Coil:
  • HCigar HB40 with Evolv DNA 40 authentic, atty lock version
  • Zivipf Titanium Grade 1, 0.39mm / 29G
    • Wire pre-pulsed @ 35W to yellow/blue, for easier coiling and to match our usual coil setup
  • Derringer v2 (clone) - used as it's a very small atomizer, presumed very low Static Resistance
  • Mod and atomizer 510s, and atomizer screws cleaned with 99% IPA prior to connection
  • 8 wrap spaced coil reading 0.35Ω on DNA 40 and reference DMM ohms meter
Test setup:
  • All testing done at 20W
  • Background room temperature: 20°C - 23°C
    • atty lock not used; no refinement visible on mod throughout tests
  • Bare wire 1-second response Type K probe pressed directly against middle turn of spaced coil
  • Fire button held down on mod for average of 15 seconds; released and re-pressed as fast as possible each 15 seconds
    • The timeout is 20 seconds so I re-pressed each 15 seconds to be safe
  • A total of 1100 measurements taken for each set temp
    • being equal to approximately 180 seconds of measurement per set temperature
    • six measurements per second
  • Table of settings recommendations taken from average of middle 400 measurements
    • Averaged across measurements 400 - 800 of each data set; 400 measurements, approximately 65 seconds of data
  • Coil cooled down to 25°C prior to start of each new test

Overall setup: mod is clamped in position; main probe wire is tacked in position on top of mod; secondary probe on outside of mod to record background/room temperature



Closer view of two probes on mod



Extreme close-up (through magnifying glass) of probe-in-coil - held in place with cotton, pressed as tight as possible against middle turn of spaced Ti coil

 
Last edited:

druckle

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2013
1,149
2,193
Scottsdale, Arizona, USA
No problemo :)

I will try for higher, but need to think how to do it. The data you see above was about the third time I did all the measurements. The first times were fluctuating a lot more and I was ready to declare it was accurate but only in a 5°C range. Then I realised it was the tiny fluctuations in the probe position caused just by my pressing/releasing the button over and over.

I finally got a setup that kept the mod super tight and the probe super tight. I'm wedging the probe in place against the top of the middle of the coil, with a tight wrap of Muji cotton pulled until the probe is in the right place.

The problem is, by the time I got to 185°C / 240°C that cotton was starting to look - and worse, smell - pretty bad :) Pretty sure it would ignite going any higher.

If I can find something else that's non-conductive, and suitable for wedging the probe in place, with a higher temperature, I will try it.

If I can find something suitable I should be able to do two measurements higher - my probes are rated up to 260°C, which based on the current progression should allow a set temperature of up to 195°C.

It pretty much seems to be 7 or 8°C higher for each 5°C higher setting. So I do understand why @vapealone is worried it looks pretty linear.. Anyway we'll know more as soon as I can test more.

Bloke

You said you had some silica wick right?
That should do the job of holding the probe in place and it isn't going to burn.

Duane
 
  • Like
Reactions: xpen

TheBloke

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
2,800
3,549
44
Brighton, UK
You said you had some silica wick right?
That should do the job of holding the probe in place and it isn't going to burn.

I do and I did give it a brief try the other day. Didn't have a huge amount of luck so far.

The problem I found is that those silica wicks are super thin, like 1mm or maybe less. Also they seem to unravel really easily, or at least mine did.

But it's the thinness that was the problem. So far all my test coils have been 3.0mm in diameter. I did 3mm because it's the standard size I use for my own coils, and I wanted test coils to be realistic. That's not to say I couldn't perhaps do 2.5 or even 2.0mm, but even 2mm is going to require at least two, maybe three silica wicks.

So I suppose I'd have to sort of knot the silica sticks together? With Muji it's really nice and easy - I cut off a tapered wedge, quite thin one end, quite thick the other. I twisted tight the thin end so it was easy to pull through the coil, then I put the probe on the thick end and kept pulling through until the probe got jammed up tight in the right place against the thickening cotton. Which happened really quickly and easily.

I'm not visualising how I might easily do that with silica - with all those individual little sticks, how I'd create a useful wedge effect that can push the probe tight up against the coil.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

I forgot whether you said you could have a SX Mini M class available to confirm the Ti temp offsets for that device.

That's one that I think would be helpful to have data for.

Yeah I think the SX Mini M /SX350J is a top contender for detailed testing. Sadly I don't have one. I haven't considered it up until now because I reckoned £170 RRP was way overpriced for what it was. I'm now starting to re-consider it, at least a used one, since Yihi are rumoured to be adding not only Titanium support (which they already added to one of their lesser chips via FW update) but also Stainless Steel. That'd be awesome.

So yeah I might get one, either the Mini M or maybe the chip on its own if I think I can fit it into some random box.

What I do have is the Pioneer4You IPV4 which uses the Yihi SX330 v4s. I am hoping that its TC is basically the same as the SX350J - it uses Joules, it has Set Resistance with three decimal place resistance reads. Though it tends to read a little low resistance on Set Resistance, which isn't great. And it doesn't have Standard/Soft/Powerful/Powerful+ stuff so I couldn't check that.

But yeah for now, the IPV4 and SX330v4s will have to do in terms of checking accuracy of the Yihi line of TC. I will keep an eye out for any bargain SX Mini Ms.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vapealone

TheotherSteveS

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 14, 2015
5,232
6,814
Birmingham, England
I do and I did give it a brief try the other day. Didn't have a huge amount of luck so far.

The problem I found is that those silica wicks are super thin, like 1mm or maybe less. Also they seem to unravel really easily, or at least mine did.

But it's the thinness that was the problem. So far all my test coils have been 3.0mm in diameter. I did 3mm because it's the standard size I use for my own coils, and I wanted test coils to be realistic. That's not to say I couldn't perhaps do 2.5 or even 2.0mm, but even 2mm is going to require at least two, maybe three silica wicks.

So I suppose I'd have to sort of knot the silica sticks together? With Muji it's really nice and easy - I cut off a tapered wedge, quite thin one end, quite thick the other. I twisted tight the thin end so it was easy to pull through the coil, then I put the probe on the thick end and kept pulling through until the probe got jammed up tight in the right place against the thickening cotton. Which happened really quickly and easily.

I'm not visualising how I might easily do that with silica - with all those individual little sticks, how I'd create a useful wedge effect that can push the probe tight up against the coil.

Any ideas would be appreciated!



Yeah I think the SX Mini M /SX350J is a top contender for detailed testing. Sadly I don't have one. I haven't considered it up until now because I reckoned £170 RRP was way overpriced for what it was. I'm now starting to re-consider it, at least a used one, since Yihi are rumoured to be adding not only Titanium support (which they already added to one of their lesser chips via FW update) but also Stainless Steel. That'd be awesome.

So yeah I might get one, either the Mini M or maybe the chip on its own if I think I can fit it into some random box.

What I do have is the Pioneer4You IPV4 which uses the Yihi SX330 v4s. I am hoping that its TC is basically the same as the SX350J - it uses Joules, it has Set Resistance with three decimal place resistance reads. Though it tends to read a little low resistance on Set Resistance, which isn't great. And it doesn't have Standard/Soft/Powerful/Powerful+ stuff so I couldn't check that.

But yeah for now, the IPV4 and SX330v4s will have to do in terms of checking accuracy of the Yihi line of TC. I will keep an eye out for any bargain SX Mini Ms.

that deal on the sx I told you about still works ~I think although starting price is 169...;)
 

tchavei

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2014
4,765
8,710
Portugal
I do and I did give it a brief try the other day. Didn't have a huge amount of luck so far.

The problem I found is that those silica wicks are super thin, like 1mm or maybe less. Also they seem to unravel really easily, or at least mine did.

But it's the thinness that was the problem. So far all my test coils have been 3.0mm in diameter. I did 3mm because it's the standard size I use for my own coils, and I wanted test coils to be realistic. That's not to say I couldn't perhaps do 2.5 or even 2.0mm, but even 2mm is going to require at least two, maybe three silica wicks.

So I suppose I'd have to sort of knot the silica sticks together? With Muji it's really nice and easy - I cut off a tapered wedge, quite thin one end, quite thick the other. I twisted tight the thin end so it was easy to pull through the coil, then I put the probe on the thick end and kept pulling through until the probe got jammed up tight in the right place against the thickening cotton. Which happened really quickly and easily.

I'm not visualising how I might easily do that with silica - with all those individual little sticks, how I'd create a useful wedge effect that can push the probe tight up against the coil.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

I posted this almost a year ago, back in the silica days lol.

Anyway, it's my technique to stuff a insane amount of silica in a coil. I can assure you that you won't have contact problems. About inserting the probe, my guess is that you can remove one strand at the end of the procedure and fit the probe. You can even use that strand as a guide if you attach the probe on the other end while you pull it out. The total number of strands inserted are 3 which is 6mm worth of silica in a 2.5mm id coil.





Ok, I'm back

First I apologize for not making this on a rta /rba but I rewicked and recoiled them all yesterday so I didn't want to rip out a new wick. This was made on the table. The only difference is that normally you would wick the coil after installing it on the atty.

Here we go

1. Tools used:

51aef75f2d35d5feea681a3e2396e5c1.jpg


- torch (for the coil)
- hex driver 2.5 mm to assist coil making
- 10-12 cm Ekowool 2mm hollow
- same size kanthal A1 0.3 mm
- piece of 3-4cm kanthal piece

2. Wick the coil tightly after you pre burned it:

af76f1f26cc34d131a8250bd803fe55b.jpg


3. Heat the coil and compress it further with a pair of tweezers until it's compacted:

ae7ef30d80f779abec8f1a86bf4bebc2.jpg


4. Your coil should look like this:

37f0daf3562bace97cb13da5dbdfcbf4.jpg


5. Bend Ekowool at 1/4 and use kanthal piece as guide :

b8242b66c7d6056af28ec050a7ffc28a.jpg


6. Start pulling it through the coil:

5f14edbde933fa65bfe3458b72463d9c.jpg


7. Now the trick people don't want to share... Bend the longer end like this:

676287226ac7bd91e315345942bc2ef4.jpg


8. Insert the end close to the coil sandwiched between the two strands:

4ee0065f9185e002a4009a253fbf5a24.jpg


9. Gently pull the sandwich through the coil until you see the end appearing on the other side:

6347735900a960c31aa7800cc716bac2.jpg


10. Pull the end further out and distribute the Ekowool evenly to have a butterfly shape:

2984ebc42c42e5170c6db34bd77da0e5.jpg


That's all... Now you would pull on the ends to adjust the size of each loop so it doesn't go over the flow channels and then you cut off the ends near the coil so you're left with just a loop on each side :)

I hope this time I explained it better.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

druckle

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2013
1,149
2,193
Scottsdale, Arizona, USA
Yeah I think the SX Mini M /SX350J is a top contender for detailed testing. Sadly I don't have one. I haven't considered it up until now because I reckoned £170 RRP was way overpriced for what it was. I'm now starting to re-consider it, at least a used one, since Yihi are rumoured to be adding not only Titanium support (which they already added to one of their lesser chips via FW update) but also Stainless Steel. That'd be awesome.

So yeah I might get one, either the Mini M or maybe the chip on its own if I think I can fit it into some random box.

What I do have is the Pioneer4You IPV4 which uses the Yihi SX330 v4s. I am hoping that its TC is basically the same as the SX350J - it uses Joules, it has Set Resistance with three decimal place resistance reads. Though it tends to read a little low resistance on Set Resistance, which isn't great. And it doesn't have Standard/Soft/Powerful/Powerful+ stuff so I couldn't check that.

But yeah for now, the IPV4 and SX330v4s will have to do in terms of checking accuracy of the Yihi line of TC. I will keep an eye out for any bargain SX Mini Ms.

The internet keeps the continents together EXCEPT when things need to move from one side of the water to the other. Buying an SX Mini M seems a bit much. If you were on my side of the water I'd send one for you to do the magic on but with customs I don't know if that's feasible.

How can we put out a notice?
CALLING ALL BRITS....YOUR COUNTRYMAN NEEDS A LOANER SXM TO HELP SAVE TI COIL VAPERS FROM SURRENDERING TO THE EVIL EMPIRE! :)

Duane
 
  • Like
Reactions: tchavei

druckle

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2013
1,149
2,193
Scottsdale, Arizona, USA
I posted this almost a year ago, back in the silica days lol.

Anyway, it's my technique to stuff a insane amount of silica in a coil. I can assure you that you won't have contact problems. About inserting the probe, my guess is that you can remove one strand at the end of the procedure and fit the probe. You can even use that strand as a guide if you attach the probe on the other end while you pull it out. The total number of strands inserted are 3 which is 6mm worth of silica in a 2.5mm id coil.





Ok, I'm back

First I apologize for not making this on a rta /rba but I rewicked and recoiled them all yesterday so I didn't want to rip out a new wick. This was made on the table. The only difference is that normally you would wick the coil after installing it on the atty.

Here we go

1. Tools used:

51aef75f2d35d5feea681a3e2396e5c1.jpg


- torch (for the coil)
- hex driver 2.5 mm to assist coil making
- 10-12 cm Ekowool 2mm hollow
- same size kanthal A1 0.3 mm
- piece of 3-4cm kanthal piece

2. Wick the coil tightly after you pre burned it:

af76f1f26cc34d131a8250bd803fe55b.jpg


3. Heat the coil and compress it further with a pair of tweezers until it's compacted:

ae7ef30d80f779abec8f1a86bf4bebc2.jpg


4. Your coil should look like this:

37f0daf3562bace97cb13da5dbdfcbf4.jpg


5. Bend Ekowool at 1/4 and use kanthal piece as guide :

b8242b66c7d6056af28ec050a7ffc28a.jpg


6. Start pulling it through the coil:

5f14edbde933fa65bfe3458b72463d9c.jpg


7. Now the trick people don't want to share... Bend the longer end like this:

676287226ac7bd91e315345942bc2ef4.jpg


8. Insert the end close to the coil sandwiched between the two strands:

4ee0065f9185e002a4009a253fbf5a24.jpg


9. Gently pull the sandwich through the coil until you see the end appearing on the other side:

6347735900a960c31aa7800cc716bac2.jpg


10. Pull the end further out and distribute the Ekowool evenly to have a butterfly shape:

2984ebc42c42e5170c6db34bd77da0e5.jpg


That's all... Now you would pull on the ends to adjust the size of each loop so it doesn't go over the flow channels and then you cut off the ends near the coil so you're left with just a loop on each side :)

I hope this time I explained it better.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Tony

I was going to suggest the same thing but you had pics and did it way better than I would have.

Duane
 
  • Like
Reactions: tchavei

TheBloke

Ultra Member
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
2,800
3,549
44
Brighton, UK
I posted this almost a year ago, back in the silica days lol.

OK awesome thanks. I will give it a go - I will have to go back to all my clone atty boxes to dig out all the pieces of Silica they provided. Hopefully I didn't throw too much away.

Interesting looking at your post, it's like a window into the dim and distant past of vaping :)

"This period, known to archaeologists and anthropologists as the Silica Age, is notable as the beginning of Early Vaper's move away from cruder metallic wicking compounds and the start of experimentation with organic materials. The wicker would gather this material in sticks, collected into small bundles, then painstakingly fashion the sticks together. One can only imagine the pain and trouble required, and the stakes involved; failure of even a single strand could often mean a lack of vapour for the whole tribe. Though primitive, we can see early attempts at optimisation, even artistry. This Proto-Wick, though quickly abandoned and forgotten by history, follows many of the same basic principles still in use today."
 

tchavei

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2014
4,765
8,710
Portugal
OK awesome thanks. I will give it a go - I will have to go back to all my clone atty boxes to dig out all the pieces of Silica they provided. Hopefully I didn't throw too much away.

Interesting looking at your post, it's like a window into the dim and distant past of vaping :)

"This period, known to archaeologists and anthropologists as the Silica Age, is notable as the beginning of Early Vaper's move away from cruder metallic wicking compounds and the start of experimentation with organic materials. The wicker would gather this material in sticks, collected into small bundles, then painstakingly fashion the sticks together. One can only imagine the pain and trouble required, and the stakes involved; failure of even a single strand could often mean a lack of vapour for the whole tribe. Though primitive, we can see early attempts at optimisation, even artistry. This Proto-Wick, though quickly abandoned and forgotten by history, follows many of the same basic principles still in use today."
Hahaha.

You should apply to history channel or some cultural program on BBC :)

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

cigatron

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 14, 2014
3,213
13,373
clinton ar
OK awesome thanks. I will give it a go - I will have to go back to all my clone atty boxes to dig out all the pieces of Silica they provided. Hopefully I didn't throw too much away.

Interesting looking at your post, it's like a window into the dim and distant past of vaping :)

"This period, known to archaeologists and anthropologists as the Silica Age, is notable as the beginning of Early Vaper's move away from cruder metallic wicking compounds and the start of experimentation with organic materials. The wicker would gather this material in sticks, collected into small bundles, then painstakingly fashion the sticks together. One can only imagine the pain and trouble required, and the stakes involved; failure of even a single strand could often mean a lack of vapour for the whole tribe. Though primitive, we can see early attempts at optimisation, even artistry. This Proto-Wick, though quickly abandoned and forgotten by history, follows many of the same basic principles still in use today."
Wow, great wikivape article! Vapepedia maybe?
 
Last edited:

Shogun1024

Senior Vapaholic
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 6, 2011
183
214
Charlotte
I've started working on a calculator for computing TFR curves for combined coils, like twisting Ni200 with Titanium, or Kanthal with Resistherm. Feel free to have a peek here, and of you have feedback you can leave it in this thread here. (Warning: This is very much a work in progress, the user interface leaves much to be desired, and I cannot guarantee the correctness of anything yet.)

This worked great to help get close for a NP setting on the SXK mod for a twisted Ti/Kanthal Clapton..... The twisted showed a 20% resistivity compared to Ti alone so at a stable 40NP 20% would be 8NP so set to 10 with a temp of 380F works perfect for dry cotton. 385F begins to yellow
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread