Tilemahos new rebuildable part (springomizer)

[taxnail]

Here we are.
Ithaka #6631 is springomized.
I tried it with a 6mm hole in the Ithaka Base and this worked for the Hyprid Center Pole. If I wanted to use the normal Center Pole for 510 I would need a 6,5mm hole - I suppose. But this is another thing. Because to use the springomizer with the 510 connection a longer adjustable Pole is needed ... no big thing.
The Ithaka mouthpiece is a tiny little bit less airy. Comparable to the Flavour Chaser. But my Springomizer with 2mm hole works just fine. Next time i try the normal rebuildable part from my Tillies with 2,5mm hole in the Ithaka.

 

[calinbotez]

One suggestion about evic mini and Ti grade 1. Version 3.0 has TCR control. Ti grade 1 wire has TCR 350. I didn't try Ti grade 1 spring coils in the Tilly, but I tried an old, regular Ti coil in kayfun Lite plus. 7 wraps, 2.5mm internal diameter, 0.47 ohms. I put the evic on TCR and 350 value, 240 Celsius, 18 watts and it works perfectly! But, as Imeo said, NOT ALLWAYS!!! But when it works, it's perfect, no dry hits. So, I think Tilly will work with Ti grade 1 springs. I will try.

 

[soulseek]

Actually I believe the more accurate value is 366

 

[TheotherSteveS]

With regard to TC and the springomizer, I have had no issues as yet using Ti Gr1. If one is careful and doesnt overdo it, Ti coils can be lightly dry heated to check for hot legs. For SS and for NiFe alloys, they can be dry burnt just like kanthal, although again there is no need to overdo it. To be honest, I dont really see any difference between the springo and normal decks where hotspots/hotlegs are still a potential problem, even with spaced coils! I can understand Imeo's reluctance to recommend TC as the manufacturer/designer/vendor, but as a user, I can recommend it as long as it is done carefully - like all aspects of vaping!

 

[taxnail]

After some testing with my springomized Ithaka I can say it works. But there are still some things to be done.
- The Center Post from Tilly is too short in total length and the Air holes of the regular AD center post have to be placed deeper. Also the O-Ring to seal the collectors tank wont work because the center Post isn't long/thick enough in this area too. The O-Ring has to be placed a little bit deeper to seal properly. This means, that the whole rebuildable Part sits a little bit too deep in the Base. The result is: the Liquid control won't close completely. To solve this, I used the o-ring from the Rebuildable Housing of my Ithaka Update - works, but itn't perfect.

- a new designed center post should have its air holes deeper placed, like the hybrid center post for Tilly. This way it isn't necessary to make a bigger hole than 6mm.

- With a 6mm hole in the base it's possible to still use the older Rebuildable Parts (with ceramic or Update)!

After all. Making the Ithaka springomized seems easy. Just widen the hole a bit and get a new designed, fitting Center Post. Thats it.

Regarding vape quality: I like it. Lots of vape, more air and taste is still very good ... more like Flavour Chaser.

Here a picture to illustrate the difference of the center posts: (left the center post of Ithaka and right the center post of Tilly)

 

[Lo zio]

Wife will complain all the time. Just dont pay attention lol

Lol.
Make a GG t-shirt with this quote, please!

 

[imeothanasis]

After some testing with my springomized Ithaka I can say it works. But there are still some things to be done.
- The Center Post from Tilly is too short in total length and the Air holes of the regular AD center post have to be placed deeper. Also the O-Ring to seal the collectors tank wont work because the center Post isn't long/thick enough in this area too. The O-Ring has to be placed a little bit deeper to seal properly. This means, that the whole rebuildable Part sits a little bit too deep in the Base. The result is: the Liquid control won't close completely. To solve this, I used the o-ring from the Rebuildable Housing of my Ithaka Update - works, but itn't perfect.

- a new designed center post should have its air holes deeper placed, like the hybrid center post for Tilly. This way it isn't necessary to make a bigger hole than 6mm.

- With a 6mm hole in the base it's possible to still use the older Rebuildable Parts (with ceramic or Update)!

After all. Making the Ithaka springomized seems easy. Just widen the hole a bit and get a new designed, fitting Center Post. Thats it.

Regarding vape quality: I like it. Lots of vape, more air and taste is still very good ... more like Flavour Chaser.

Here a picture to illustrate the difference of the center posts: (left the center post of Ithaka and right the center post of Tilly)

View attachment 524118

So your suggestion is a new base for Ithaka and a longer AD pin for springomizer Tax?
Also your suggestion is to keep Ithaka's air control as it is? I mean that the external look of Ithaka 510 base must stay the same (threaded 510 base to the hybrid base with a threated air ring on it but slightly different inside to to fit springomizer the right way?

 

[imeothanasis]

Lol.
Make a GG t-shirt with this quote, please!

ahahaha, thats a great idea Lo Zio. My wife and all wives around the world will love it

 

[taxnail]

So your suggestion is a new base for Ithaka and a longer AD pin for springomizer Tax?
Also your suggestion is to keep Ithaka's air control as it is? I mean that the external look of Ithaka 510 base must stay the same (threaded 510 base to the hybrid base with a threated air ring on it but slightly different inside to to fit springomizer the right way?

Yes. Wy change more than neccessary?
If you want to keep it simple just make a bigger hole (around 6mm) into all new GGTS bases for Ithaka.
(all existing owners of an ithaka can choose to buy a new GGTS Base or make the modifikation themselves. Its easy to open the hole to ca. 6mm.)
All you need to do is then:
offer a new center pole for springomizer to make it compatible with Ithaka (with the wider hole in the base). This way every one can use Ithaka mit all rebuildable parts from Tilly and stay backward compatible to the old original Rebuildable parts from ithaka.

Of course its possible to change more and give ithaka a complete overhaul. But for me this would be enough. I use my ithakas allways hybrid with my jgg. I dont need a new air flow control, as long as the old one works with the new center post, if i need it.

 

[imeothanasis]

so Tax, your suggestion is to make a longer center pin for springomizer and a base for Ithaka with a wider hole. Am I right?

 

[taxnail]

Correct.
Ggts base with a little bit wider hole.
and the center pole a bit longer in total length, air holes positioned deeper like the hybrid center pole for tilly. and very important: a little redesign where the o-ring should seal the small collectors tank. thats it .. i believe.

made some more tests.
I use it with the center pole of the ithaka hybrid base, as i mentioned. I simply doubled the o-ring on the center pole. now the small collectors tank is sealed and the big collectors tank of my jgg is completely dry. and the rebuildable part sits perfectly positioned in the base - not too low and not too high. Liquid control works as it should. The flavour Is everything you want: You want Tilly V2 with full air - no problem. You want flavour chaser feeling and taste - put in the v2+ rebuildable or simply close the air control a bit. Want the original type of vape of the Ithaka? Just close the aircontrol a little more and enjoy ... or put the old original rebuildable in. Thats ithaka like its meant to be: versatile.

At this moment i use it with the Tilly V2 Rebuildable 2,5mm. Lots of air! but if you close the air flow control it comes to the typical Ithaka style: dense vape with wonderful flavour. Seems like the Ithaka mouthpiece does the trick.
In my opinion the best of both worlds.

Regarding the length of the cemter pole:
I would say, dont make it too long.
For the use with a ggts or jgg the usual Ithaka center pole is very long. I always remove the AD Pole.
But you know your gear better than me.

If i ever wanted to change something on the Ithaka, its the Top Cap. The opening is realy narrow. This could be wider like the tilly. But its not realy something to bother.

If you ever do make a batch of new Ithaka V2 (X1 or what the hell you call it) in this fashion. I would realy like to have the serial number 0001 ... 0002 would be OK also ... ok, ok no need. I know: no serials.

 

[imeothanasis]

Ithaka's base design is ready Tax. Fortunately no reason to change springomizer's air holes because I simply reduced the width of the bottom of Ithaka's base. We finally need a longer AD pin for springomizer and a new base for Ithaka, according to plan

 

[subwayaznm]

Order is in for the Springomizer update for Tilemahos. Thank You FMS.

I can hardly wait until they are back in stock. I check daily. Looking to buy the GG Tilemahos Plus. I'm a flavor Chaser MTLer.

 

[Sad Society]

I can hardly wait until they are back in stock. I check daily. Looking to buy the GG Tilemahos Plus. I'm a flavor Chaser MTLer.

What does MTLer mean?

Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

 

[taxnail]

Ithaka's base design is ready Tax. Fortunately no reason to change springomizer's air holes because I simply reduced the width of the bottom of Ithaka's base. We finally need a longer AD pin for springomizer and a new base for Ithaka, according to plan

Ahh I understand. I tried to solve this similar, by making the hole in the base like a konus. But with a changed base this is obsolete. And yes a longer AD pin is then all you need.

By the way, I enjoy the new born ithaka. It works realy good from original ithaka taste and feel to everything tilly has to offer ... I'm surprised how good he takes his stand.

Will you make some new Ithaka V2 then? This atomizer has earned to get a second life.

Be well. And hush, hush back to the workbench. The preorders have to be ready! )

one last question: will the older rebuildable parts work with this base also? Not that it's necessary, but, you know, just in case. Some might like it.

 

[gratefulbuddy]

What does MTLer mean?

Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

Mouth To Lung-er

 

[subwayaznm]

What does MTLer mean?

Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

Mouth to Lung Vaper

 

[taxnail]

is this the same as the old school pinoy style vaping?

 

[subwayaznm]

is this the same as the old school pinoy style vaping?

I'm not familiar with the term "Pinoy" but I'm a flavor chaser. All about the Flavor for me.

 

[gratefulbuddy]

AFAIK pinoy is a term used by phillipino people to describe themselves with the intent of showing pride in their heritage. Their vaping, from what I have seen, is similar to the socal cloud-chasing scene, ie - mech mods and rbas with huge airflow making the most gigantic clouds possible. I have never heard of a pinoy-style inhale though.
Mouth-to-lung involves using tighter airflow/draw to pull the vapor into your mouth/upper throat while drawing on the atomizer. Then after you have ceased drawing on the atomizer you pull the vapor that is in your mouth/upper throat into your lungs. Most say this is similar to how people smoke cigarettes. I may disagree as I used to smoke camel wides with the benefit being the cherry not getting too big and hot on large inhales. I never analyzed how I inhaled a cigarette, so I may be wrong, but it seems to me I was direct-lung inhaling those.
I prefer my springomizers in the 2.5mm airflow as well.