►►► Prodigy V1 Troubleshooting Guide ◄◄◄
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the ghost's of christmas past bud 
Not sure ... It was likely severed from the start ... and simply just frayed over a couple hours and went kaput ...
Normally this is seen quite early (within the first 24/48 hours) Once you get past that, the chances of seeing it drop drastically (at least from the 4-5 I have seen) And hopefully will never see again, as the new adapters are being pressed to perfection now (a tool is now built to stop it from being pressed in too far)
Not sure ... It was likely severed from the start ... and simply just frayed over a couple hours and went kaput ...Normally this is seen quite early (within the first 24/48 hours) Once you get past that, the chances of seeing it drop drastically (at least from the 4-5 I have seen) And hopefully will never see again, as the new adapters are being pressed to perfection now (a tool is now built to stop it from being pressed in too far)
What is delrin? I cleaned around my battery housing's connector and came up with some black stuff -- hopefully that's not it?
~~Cheryl
~~Cheryl
It's a very very hard plastic - DuPont has it listed as a 'metal substitute'.
I have a question about the battery charger. Ive had the Prodigy 5 days, no problems at all with it. When I pop my batteries into the charger, the fit is kind of loose, so I wiggle the batteries around somewhat and the light flickers from green to red to bright red and sometimes to green again . Is this normal? Most of the time the batteries do charge, and I rotate between the 2 sets. Could this become an issue or do I just keep wiggling them to make the light red? Thanks in advance for any help on this
. Is this normal? Most of the time the batteries do charge, and I rotate between the 2 sets. Could this become an issue or do I just keep wiggling them to make the light red? Thanks in advance for any help on this 
I have a question about the battery charger. Ive had the Prodigy 5 days, no problems at all with it. When I pop my batteries into the charger, the fit is kind of loose, so I wiggle the batteries around somewhat and the light flickers from green to red to bright red and sometimes to green again
Well I haven't received my prodigy yet, but I do have batteries and an extra charger I ordered. I haven't tried them yet, but I can say that the same thing happens with some of the battery chargers I have for my Screwdriver. I just carefully bent the little electrical dooma-flobbies (technical word there) out a little, the ones on the charger and it works fine. Some of my chargers (I have six
, work great without doing that and a couple needed it done. Hope that's clearer than mud.
the ghost's of christmas past bud
Normally this is seen quite early (within the first 24/48 hours) Once you get past that, the chances of seeing it drop drastically (at least from the 4-5 I have seen) And hopefully will never see again, as the new adapters are being pressed to perfection now (a tool is now built to stop it from being pressed in too far)
Hey buddy,
It wound up being the atomizer - both adapters are identical in build. I don't know why being as I barely tighten them on after reading horror stories around here, either I can dissect it later or ship it to you if you want to see what the hell was going wrong?
I'll ship you back your brand new 801 adapter on Monday if all works out.Justin
Thanks so much Sharon. Worked like a charm! In 2 seconds I went from annoyed with the charger to wow the batts just SNAP into place now, awesome! Thanks again!Well I haven't received my prodigy yet, but I do have batteries and an extra charger I ordered. I haven't tried them yet, but I can say that the same thing happens with some of the battery chargers I have for my Screwdriver. I just carefully bent the little electrical dooma-flobbies (technical word there) out a little, the ones on the charger and it works fine. Some of my chargers (I have six
Hope that's clearer than mud.
Hi Yaw'l,
I am a very newbie to ecigs. My first one is a M401....not consistent at all.
Sar, another forum member had just convinced me to try the Prodigy with the 501 atty, but after reading all this trouble shooting that is required....I am now SCARED!
I just want a unit that works without all this fuss. I already have a fussy unit.....so why would I want to add to my frustration?
I mean, does this thing not work properly from the get go?
Aluminum threads with all sorts of guck (very soft material) do they hold up over the long run or do they get derailed?
Attys that come brand new, yet destroyed.
That thing-a-ma-gig in the pics that you have to bang down......
Is this Prodigy still in the testing stage or what???
I'm sorry but once bitten, thrice shy. What to do.....what to do?
I am a very newbie to ecigs. My first one is a M401....not consistent at all.
Sar, another forum member had just convinced me to try the Prodigy with the 501 atty, but after reading all this trouble shooting that is required....I am now SCARED!
I just want a unit that works without all this fuss. I already have a fussy unit.....so why would I want to add to my frustration?
I mean, does this thing not work properly from the get go?
Aluminum threads with all sorts of guck (very soft material) do they hold up over the long run or do they get derailed?
Attys that come brand new, yet destroyed.
That thing-a-ma-gig in the pics that you have to bang down......
Is this Prodigy still in the testing stage or what???
I'm sorry but once bitten, thrice shy. What to do.....what to do?
Everything on mine has worked right out of the box, no banging necessary. But I never had any probs with my m401s either. I've had my share of bad batts and attys, but when I've got good equipment it's just a matter of learning how to operate it then it's smooth sailing.
Every e-cig has a learning curve IMO. Any more experienced users nearby who could help you?
I've honestly fiddled less with my Prodigy than any other model, but vaping at 5V will be something you will have to learn and you will likely have some blown attys. (Or just flooded.) Not the devices fault.
Maybe go for the Protege at the 3.7V first.
Every e-cig has a learning curve IMO. Any more experienced users nearby who could help you?
I've honestly fiddled less with my Prodigy than any other model, but vaping at 5V will be something you will have to learn and you will likely have some blown attys. (Or just flooded.) Not the devices fault.
Maybe go for the Protege at the 3.7V first.
Hi Momof3,
Thank you very, very much for your reassurance. It's just if you scroll back a few pages and look at the pics....well, you too would get scared. I mean, you buy something and then you have to hammer it down! lolololol
They seem like a nice outfit. At least they were willing to exchange the damaged atty right away. I guess if there are any real damage issues upon receipt of the unit, they would exchange it. Yes? No?
Is the Prodigy USA made?
Thank you very, very much for your reassurance. It's just if you scroll back a few pages and look at the pics....well, you too would get scared. I mean, you buy something and then you have to hammer it down! lolololol
They seem like a nice outfit. At least they were willing to exchange the damaged atty right away. I guess if there are any real damage issues upon receipt of the unit, they would exchange it. Yes? No?
Is the Prodigy USA made?
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Yes it's made here in the US. Many vapers also like to tinker a bit and/or would rather DIY than ship back, so the directions are for them. Any issues with not so sure users I've seen Steve post they can send it back to be fixed. The Prodigy has a 6mnth warranty on hard parts which is nice.
A few slightly off adapters isn't any different than anything else you buy. Always a chance of something being not quite right no matter what the product is. Standard options as what you buy at Wal-mart, send back for warranty work, return for refund or fix it yourself. I think the majority of people with the adapter contact issue, were using atomizers from a different vendor, atomizers that are slightly different depth wise than the ones PS sells and designed/tested their adapters for. All the atomizers I've used to date are the same brand PS sells and recommends, so maybe that's why mine worked fine.
It's hard to go by the pics and descriptions alone, with unit in hand, it's very simple. Just a couple pieces that screw together. If there's a problem with 1 piece, easy to just replace that one piece, no tools needed. Like all the talk of replacing the switch and I kept thinking "no way, not me." It's that black piece with the button. Slides in and out. If you can change the batteries in a flashlight, you can change the switch in the PD. The only fiddling I've done at this point is because I've wanted to, not because I had too.
A few slightly off adapters isn't any different than anything else you buy. Always a chance of something being not quite right no matter what the product is. Standard options as what you buy at Wal-mart, send back for warranty work, return for refund or fix it yourself. I think the majority of people with the adapter contact issue, were using atomizers from a different vendor, atomizers that are slightly different depth wise than the ones PS sells and designed/tested their adapters for. All the atomizers I've used to date are the same brand PS sells and recommends, so maybe that's why mine worked fine.
It's hard to go by the pics and descriptions alone, with unit in hand, it's very simple. Just a couple pieces that screw together. If there's a problem with 1 piece, easy to just replace that one piece, no tools needed. Like all the talk of replacing the switch and I kept thinking "no way, not me." It's that black piece with the button. Slides in and out. If you can change the batteries in a flashlight, you can change the switch in the PD. The only fiddling I've done at this point is because I've wanted to, not because I had too.
Thanks Momof3 - The talk of replacing/changing switches just sounded too ambious for me to be able to do - happy to see that bit of news
Should get my Prodigy Thurs or Fri - can't wait - just lost my passthru & 3 batts in the last 24hrs. Hopefully the 5v isn't too strong for me.
Whew! That is sooooo good to know.
If you don't mind, a few more questions have come to mind. I have been reading that a China mfg., actually does not expect a person to spend monies on shipping back faulty parts. Instead he just ships out the new ones with the next order. Which is very sensible and cost effective. Yet other companies expect you to spend more monies shipping back.
1) What is this companies policy on that subject?
2) The batteries that the Prodigy uses, apparently can be bought at a regular store, yes? If yes, then can I use the home recharger I have right now, or do I have to buy a special one when I order the Prodigy, which sort of does not make sense, as any recharger should work. yes? no?
3) Is there some sort of led lite as with the cig models? If yes, is is at least located in a place where you can actually see if it is flickering for recharge time?
4) Are there any pitfalls that you know of that I should prepare myself for. ie: when pressing the switch, do I have to wait a few seconds before sucking or can I suck right away? With this model, can I suck consecutively or do I have to let it cool down or recharge or what ever?
I just want to be prepared so that I don't go thru the OMG this thing is not working properly stage like I did with this one. I now know that there is a learning curve to each brand of ecig.
Whew! That is sooooo good to know.
If you don't mind, a few more questions have come to mind. I have been reading that a China mfg., actually does not expect a person to spend monies on shipping back faulty parts. Instead he just ships out the new ones with the next order. Which is very sensible and cost effective. Yet other companies expect you to spend more monies shipping back.
1) What is this companies policy on that subject?
2) The batteries that the Prodigy uses, apparently can be bought at a regular store, yes? If yes, then can I use the home recharger I have right now, or do I have to buy a special one when I order the Prodigy, which sort of does not make sense, as any recharger should work. yes? no?
3) Is there some sort of led lite as with the cig models? If yes, is is at least located in a place where you can actually see if it is flickering for recharge time?
4) Are there any pitfalls that you know of that I should prepare myself for. ie: when pressing the switch, do I have to wait a few seconds before sucking or can I suck right away? With this model, can I suck consecutively or do I have to let it cool down or recharge or what ever?
I just want to be prepared so that I don't go thru the OMG this thing is not working properly stage like I did with this one. I now know that there is a learning curve to each brand of ecig.
1) I've been awaiting my prodigy for a while now (its in transit and i can't wait!
) been following the boards and have seen no less than three (there may be more that haven't been posted) examples where a part was faulty and Steve offered to send out a replacement free of charge. No worries about defects, as all hard parts (basically everything on the Prodigy (PD) except the atomizer) are backed by 6 month warranty. 2)Well yes and no. The PD *can* run on store bought CR123a batteries (usually found in the photo department), however this isn't a cost effective solution, as they are pretty expensive at your local drug store. The batteries that come with the prodigy are different than regular rechargeable batteries: not only are they an odd size, but they have a different chemistry than regular rechargeables. Your home charger for AA/AAA/C/D sized batteries will not work with the PD batteries, however when you purchase the PD you'll get a charger and two sets of batteries. These *should* last all day, as people have been reporting 3-4 hours of vape time. Links have been posted for replacement batteries as well as chargers, and extra batteries can be bought at the time of purchase from PureSmoker
3) I believe there is a LED on the charger indicating a battery that is being charged/fully charged, but am not sure. However, there is no LED light on the Prodigy, it was built to be as simple as possible. However it does have a manual switch, this is your indication that the unit is "on". With a manual switch you depress (and hold) a button, then draw. When you are at the end of the inhale release the button. Automatic batteries (like the one on the M401) require airflow through the battery to turn on. This means that its an "open" design, and liquid can enter the battery, causing malfunction. Part of the reason for the manual switch is to "seal" this opening, and protect the PD from liquid, thus preventing malfunction. Switching from automatic batteries to a manual one will take a little bit of time, but one you get used to it, its hard to go back to an automatic. When the amount of vapor decreases (and you've been vaping on the same set for a while) its probably time to change the battery. There is no visible indication that your batteries are dead, but the batteries that Steve chose are pretty state-of-the-art, and have a longer life (cycle life, meaning they can be recharged many, many, times before going bad) than regular rechargeables, or even regular ecig batteries. So just switch them out with a fresh set when you've been vaping for awhile.
4)Again the main pitfall of the manual design (if you can call it a pitfall) is the learning curve associated with manuals. Unlike automatic batteries there is no "cutoff". This was placed by ecig manufactures as an evil ploy to destroy the world...
no not really, just seeing if you're paying attention. The cutoff was designed to shut down the ecig before it starts to overheat the atomizer. Its basically a safety feature. Take that out, and it gives the user much more control over their vaping. However, it does take a certain amount of self control and getting into a rhythm of vaping.
With any manual as soon as you depress the button you're ready to go. With my 510, i like to "preheat" the juice for a second, so when i do inhale its already warm, can't compare it with the prodigy *yet* so I'll let some one with more experience take it from here.
As for whether you have to let it cool down the answer is a definitive yes. With any e-cig, the atomizer is generating heat to vaporize liquid. Heat, while good for turning liquid into yummy, yummy, vape, is baddddd for atomziers. When they get too hot...well... like most electronic devices they break. When using an 801 (penstyle) atomizer, some forum members including but not limited to CaSh and Walrus "tailpipe" or use the e-cig without a mouthpiece or cart. This is more convenient as dripping is easy, and it lets you know when to put the ecig down for a moment. Other users put a finger on the atomizer, and when it gets warm, you put it down. In the end you'll pretty much learn when to stop.
Hope this answers your questions!
On another note, I absolutely love the M401s, they have been nothing but workhorses for me. If you have any problems/questions about the 401, give me a PM or try giving this a read through (warning: this is an insanely LOOOONNNNGGGG thread) http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...te-reviews/4523-m201-402-my-dream-e-cigs.html
It is long, but it pretty much covers EVERYTHING about the M401.
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My problems:
It is difficult to change adapters due to the threading. In fact my 510 adapter froze on it and I tried everything from my pliers to my teeth to remove it. In fact, I had to destroy the adapter because the only way to get it off was to grind it into several pieces.
I don't know what causes this but it has happened a few times. I'll change batteries after using my Prodigy with no problems after a couple of hours and suddeny it doesn't work. I'll notice heat from the bottom of the Prodigy near the springs though and I'll open up the battery compartment and the bottom battery is burning up. So much so that I'll take it outside because I'm afraid that it'll explode. I also haven't tried to recharge them yet either (this has happened to 2 batteries).
I know there is no fix for the threading but would could be causing the short? I do notice that my resistor looks like it's been cooked as it has shrunk, discolored brown and looks burned.
When the Prodigy does work though, it's a really good PV. Any suggestions would be radical. Thanks.
It is difficult to change adapters due to the threading. In fact my 510 adapter froze on it and I tried everything from my pliers to my teeth to remove it. In fact, I had to destroy the adapter because the only way to get it off was to grind it into several pieces.
I don't know what causes this but it has happened a few times. I'll change batteries after using my Prodigy with no problems after a couple of hours and suddeny it doesn't work. I'll notice heat from the bottom of the Prodigy near the springs though and I'll open up the battery compartment and the bottom battery is burning up. So much so that I'll take it outside because I'm afraid that it'll explode. I also haven't tried to recharge them yet either (this has happened to 2 batteries).
I know there is no fix for the threading but would could be causing the short? I do notice that my resistor looks like it's been cooked as it has shrunk, discolored brown and looks burned.
When the Prodigy does work though, it's a really good PV. Any suggestions would be radical. Thanks.
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