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I got my 500 mesh in and rolled a tight wick for my vivitank.. Wick hole has been previously drilled out to 3/32". This 500 mesh wick fits in there loosely with room to spare and performs flawlessly. I have 6 coils of 32 gauge starting at the very bottom negative screw and finishing right even with the top positive post. I pulled it tight enough to the post to crimp the wick shut at the top which seemed to be a lucky result as bj43 recommends this and it works fine. No metallic taste, just smooth flavor. It's a 2 ohm wrap and works fine from 3.7 to 5.0 on my v1 lt from Apollo, it never gets harsh. Beats the 400 mesh, and various cotton wicks. A 1.5 ohm hh357 on my vmodxl competes with it but everything else does not, Vivi Novas, ce3 (very close) and bulli clones are going to need some work to match up but I can't be bothered.. this is just fine. Thanks for the thread in the coOps or I would have missed this.
I repeat: This thread was intended to prove which wick mesh, wicks best, most and fastest replacement of juice vaped. Had nothing to do with taste. I would probably choke on emony's setup and not get any satisfaction on Quigs, taste and TH are not parameters for a wicking lab test. Don't know any lab test for taste or TH, that is up to each individual. I am interested if any one is getting dry hits with a 500 tightly rolled wick as that is the only parameter that would contradict my lab tests. Some one mentioned starting a thread for best wick coil for each different RBA and I think that is a good idea. Would probably prove there isn't a best for any.
Last time I put the wick + coil from myDID up side down in a ultra sonic batch, the water turned brown and accumulated dirt came loose from the coil. After that I washed with water and dry burn.
Have to repeat this cleaning method to see if it's really significantly removes accumulated carbon dirt on the coil and that I don't have to adjust any short's.
Anybody have experience with this method?
Have to repeat this cleaning method to see if it's really significantly removes accumulated carbon dirt on the coil and that I don't have to adjust any short's.
Anybody have experience with this method?
Good question. I don't know if I would call it over oxidizing but what I do know is that if you torch the wick too much, it becomes brittle. Not only will if fall apart sooner but it looks like the oxidation actually does not hold: small pieces break off because of the heat generated, exposing non oxidized parts of the wick (the mesh actually breaks) and with that creating "hot spots".
BJ, concerning your question and the reason of this thread: I am still breaking in my #500 mesh wicks and do sometimes get dry hits if I don't tilt the PV enough. That being said only on setups that have no hole in the wick or that have very tiny one's. On one setup where there is actually a good size hole in the wick it appears to wick better, but I am not 100% sure yet. Going to run the setups that I made for a couple more days and will let you know my results. Also I am still doubting if the #500 mesh wick actually has a better capillary action when used for the I would say smaller wicks (60 mm or thinner) being used in setups with smaller wick holes. All my liquids are 30%VG and I am running them all on pretty high power as that might be an issue by itself as the liquid has to go up very very fast but I also only take 1 or two second hits and I don't chain vape...Still not sure if really the #500 actually wicks better in "real life" then the #400 and if a solid wick is better then a wick with a bigger hole......
It is the rapid cooling down of the stainless by quenching in water that tempers it, making it harder, but very brittle.
I have made springs in this way before, using normal mild steel wire.
Has anyone tried oxidizing the SS without quenching it? Just give it a little time to cool off normally before reheating it.
If you let the temperature go down by itself, it should stay flexible. (I might be wrong, but I think it's referred to as annealing).
OTOH, I think the thermal shock of quenching it in water roughens the steel surface, which should aid wicking.
I am no kind of expert in this field, so these are just my hypotheses based on observation.
I have made springs in this way before, using normal mild steel wire.
Has anyone tried oxidizing the SS without quenching it? Just give it a little time to cool off normally before reheating it.
If you let the temperature go down by itself, it should stay flexible. (I might be wrong, but I think it's referred to as annealing).
OTOH, I think the thermal shock of quenching it in water roughens the steel surface, which should aid wicking.
I am no kind of expert in this field, so these are just my hypotheses based on observation.
good point, I made my wicks recently without quenching, will try next time quenching and see if it makes any difference in wicking.
Stupid Tapatalk...
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I started by taking some of the restriction out of the DT, found that I was really hauling on it and was getting the drinking straw effect, seems ok now...I don't want to pull this setup apart to do a comparison to the 400, it's just too good...but when I JB Weld the airhole and re-drill to get the draw I want I'll try crimping the top 1mm of the wick...makes total sense, when I fill this thing, juice oozes out of the top of the wick like a chocolate fountain...
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The center hole is not wicking but pumping juice up by thermal heat rising and yes you can get more juice that way. This is harder to control. I once used a center tube from a ce2 wrapped a little oxidized mesh around the top under a coil, no mesh down in the juice just the tube and it pumped a lot of juice and flooded everything. In case scientific minds question , yes the tube had a mini check valve in the bottom that only let juice in and not out so the hole tube was always primed.
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here here and I agree BJ and as soon as the #500 mesh comes in I am anxiuosly hoping that this will improve wicking on my 5ml Cobra without taking any screws off. Once you do this is not pocket friendly... well genesis atties really aren't pocket friendly anyway I guess as there will be some sort of leakage from the wick hole, minimizing the amount and speed is what we control with thicker wicks!!
Quigs I was overjoyed with my Z Atty P, but I bought the 'stiff draw cap' and my joy increased
If you're so inclined I'm sure you could epoxy or solder the hole and re drill something more narrow, or something to that effect
Yup, exactly the plan...I done this before when tweaking my Hybrid...and if you use JB Weld (the 2 part paste in the tubes kind not the stick of 2 coloured plasticine type) it hardens like steel. if you put a little electricians tape on the outside over the hole and apply the JB from the inside you get a finish that's hard to see
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I read earlier that BJ43 had significantly better wicking in a test on pre-rolled oxidized wick because the holes are closed down slightly. This makes sense based upon capillary action.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh-7.html#post7244217
Apparently his oxidation technique is well honed. I ask the question earlier about over-oxidation because I have looked at dozen or so videos of people oxidizing their wicks and they run the gamut. Some of these guys are doing a 4-6x torch/quenches, then burning juice multiple times, etc. These aggressive oxidation technique are probable overkill for finer grade meshes and may be a reason why people are not seeing differences in tightly rolled #500 mesh (or #400 mesh as well). They are essentially choking off their wick with oxidation.
Hopefully BJ can chime in here as well and perhaps share his oxidation technique for #500 mesh?
I read earlier that BJ43 had significantly better wicking in a test on pre-rolled oxidized wick because the holes are closed down slightly. This makes sense based upon capillary action.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh-7.html#post7244217
Apparently his oxidation technique is well honed. I ask the question earlier about over-oxidation because I have looked at dozen or so videos of people oxidizing their wicks and they run the gamut. Some of these guys are doing a 4-6x torch/quenches, then burning juice multiple times, etc. These aggressive oxidation technique are probable overkill for finer grade meshes and may be a reason why people are not seeing differences in tightly rolled #500 mesh (or #400 mesh as well). They are essentially choking off their wick with oxidation.
Hopefully BJ can chime in here as well and perhaps share his oxidation technique for #500 mesh?
Don't remember any test that the oxidized wick substantially out wicked the others. True I did state that because of the possible reduction in hole size it may, on the kerosine burn test it only beat the other two wicks by 5 sec and that is insignificant. I only oxidize the area under the coil. I heat on a gas stove, never to bright red and quench three times, that's all. If the whole coil doesn't heat up when I put current to it, I drip on it at low voltage until it does.
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Rolled a 325 and a 400 tight 70mm 11 in long to compare with the above. Left the three vertical for two hours in two inches of water
325 wicked 1/4 inch above the water line
400 wicked 2 1/2 inches above the waterline
500 just a hair more than the 3 1/4 inches it wicked the first time.
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