Has this method worked for you?

  • Yes.

  • No.

  • Yes, but it is not producing a lot of vapor.


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JamBandPhan

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Jan 26, 2010
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portguy

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Feb 3, 2010
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I think I just figured out a way to use a loaded cart with a "naked" coil 510 atty. Go to this thread and skip to pg 19, scroll down to my post w/photo about the screen mod I just made. I was amazed at the results! This is a good mod if you don't want to have to drip every 8-10 puffs. I got 109 good billowing puffs from one 15 drop cart load on one of my recovered attys!


This MUST work. I have peeled too much wick of the atties, so 2 drops lasted 4 or 5 puffs. I actually used an inverted triangle of blue foam, stuck down the atomizer, soaked it as i would do in a cart, and it worked very well. Of course, after some 15 puffs i checked the foam and it was showing signs of burning. The brass mod is a perfect way to wick the naked atomizer....I must find the brass now!

WTG guys!
 

JamBandPhan

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Jan 26, 2010
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This MUST work. I have peeled too much wick of the atties, so 2 drops lasted 4 or 5 puffs. I actually used an inverted triangle of blue foam, stuck down the atomizer, soaked it as i would do in a cart, and it worked very well. Of course, after some 15 puffs i checked the foam and it was showing signs of burning. The brass mod is a perfect way to wick the naked atomizer....I must find the brass now!

WTG guys!


I would recommend the stainless steel instead of brass, it won't tarnish, or be as loose of a weave. Mine has touched the coil, and I could taste it a little, so I pressed it in just a little more, and it was fine. I was trying to upload some more pics of my screen mod, with no luck. I will try again... nope, still won't upload, I don't know why, it worked on other pics I uploaded... hmmm

my screen mod is working great, I'm getting between 25-30 drops in there, and it's wicking nicely. Just have to make sure there are no side gaps along the outer edge of where the screen pokes out of the cart, for the liquid to leak out of.
 
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That was a cool experiment, and for the first time, I actually saw what the coil looks like on a 510. Unfortunately, the coil was was broken, so that one was a no go. Like crashtestjeep suggested, I tried to mash the coil back together, but the break was right near the edge of the coil, so there was insufficient coil at the short end to make an attachment. So it is a very much dead atty now, but I will hang on to the atty to see what kind of future mods can be made from it.
 
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Mertin

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Jan 17, 2010
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I completed this mod on an atty with a super hard draw and horrible vapor production with fantastic results. It is now vaping better than when it was new! Upon inspecting the nasty fiberglass strands, I noticed some gross black gunk, which was definetly preventing it from wicking properly and was probably caused by some abuse from the learning curve as I suspect I was drawing for too long.
Thanks for the tip!
 

InTheCity

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Feb 5, 2009
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Berkeley, CA
Wow, this should be a sticky someplace.

I've done dropped over $400 on atty's, they're good for about 2-3 days, a week max. For the life of me, I couldn't find a balance between dry and wet.

I managed the mod on a newish atty that was already dying, but I will say I was a little worried when I tried to move the bridge, as everything inside was raising up. Thankfully though, by using a needle, I kept the good stuff (components) down.

Couldn't fully remove the metal bridge either, so I simply shifted it to the side.

Were saying the white thing in the middle is ceramic too?
So it's perfectly safe to drip directly into here right?

Thanks for this.
 

InTheCity

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Feb 5, 2009
140
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Berkeley, CA
Must say, this terrible atty was almost ready for the trash.

Now it vapes so good, I can only handle about 3-4 hits before I feel the nic hitting me.

I must admit though, it raises a concern - that maybe we're no longer vaporizing the PG, we're actually heating it up, which is risky business in line with combustion in analogs.
 

IR_Efrem

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Feb 10, 2010
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originally I had boiled an atomizer but I made a mistake

I completely forgot about it and left it until the water was completely boiled out. Absent minded I admit. I believe that in doing so, I cemented some of the gunk onto the element and atomizer. Needless to say I was getting hardly any vapor from it. I removed the mesh, bridge, and fiberglass per the instructions here; I used hemostats instead though and this gave me much more control than tweezers. I picked away at the black crusty crap with a needle and now this atomizer produces more than anything else that I have.

Thanks for the tips. I'll add one of my own because I like it so much. Google "Flux bottle" and buy one (empty one of course). It has a long needle like dropper and helps not to drip so much fluid down the insides when you are dripping, very good flow control as well, and generally not as messy.
 

Brandnew vper

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Feb 1, 2010
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WOW- Really awesome idea. I just did it on one of my 510 attys and bam! I never knew vaping could taste sooo good. It really does hit hard. Everyone on this forum is so smart..Man i love this place. And the fact that no one around here is satisfied with things as is so we tinker all the time at its awesome the amount of experiments people try. Really im just happy because ive been having a real strong urg to smoke an analog and this mod satisfied the hell outta that. So im good to go. Inthecity- its still not combustion there is no flame it heats up and does not explode. Therefore no combustion. You need a chemical explosion to have combustion and nothing explodes. Vaporizing is the heating of liquid transform to water vapor just like freezing water going from liquid to solid or a liquid to gas is just atomization. Hense atomizer!
 

IR_Efrem

Full Member
Feb 10, 2010
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One thing I noticed on the atomizer that removed the wick, bridge, and threads from. The juice doesn't get to half the coil, and all vapor has become slightly burnt tasting. On a normal burn one half the coil glows orange and the other half you can see vapor being produced from. I had to put the bridge back in and new clean thread. This has solved the problem with juice not getting to the entire coil.

I will post my method for replacing the threads and bridge soon.
 

InTheCity

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 5, 2009
140
4
Berkeley, CA
Reporting back on this technique. I had very good results with this, but they were short lived on the three atomizers I've tried it on. Perhaps I got overly excited with the dripping, but they no longer work.

Still, I will apply this method, even if it means only a couple of days extra on atty's I would have otherwise thrown away.
 
Yes, this method works, but I do it a bit differently.

If anybody else has already mentioned this, I'm sorry. I was lazy and didn't take the time to read the other posts.

Instead of raising the ceramic pot and risking the chance of breaking an electrical connection, I use a long small blunt pin to hold the ceramic pot down, and at the same time pull the bridge. Then pluck out the wick fibers from the coil. To keep the atty still and steady so you can use both hands, drill a hole into a board slightly larger than the atty and drop the atty in the hole.

If you don't want to turn your atty into a drip vaper and would rather continue wicking with a cartridge, you can do that too! But, you need good eyesight, patience, a bright light, and a better set of tweezers that have angled (or needle-like) tips. You can still access the coil on either side of the bridge, thus you don't have to remove the bridge. Carefully pluck out the burnt wick fibers from the coil as the OP suggests. Since the bridge is still there you can continue wicking with a cartridge, but remember to keep your e-cig pointed more directly to the floor from now on to get a full vape (although not entirely necessary, just a suggestion if you want to optimize your vaping experience).

If you're wondering why this works, it's because everytime you take a draw on the e-cig you're forcing the e-liquid from under the ceramic pot up into the ceramic basin. Most of the attys I've seen have 3 holes in them... 1 for the center air flow and 2 more for the coil leads, but most of the e-liquid is perked via the center hole. Also the mesh around the ceramic pot can only hold but so much e-liquid, so any overspill will seep into the ceramic basin. You see, the wick in the coil is not entirely necessary, it's just there to help distribute e-liquid evenly across the coil, help keep the coil at an optimum temperature, and reduce the chance of flooding. However, I've done this mod several times and haven't had a flooding issue yet.

And while I'm at it, I'll offer another pointer of something I like to do... When you have your atty mod connected to power and ready to fire, and exactly right before you put your FULL cartridge back on, go ahead and fire up the atty and wait for it to begin glowing red (only takes about 1 or 2 seconds). Then gently blow into the atty for 1 or 2 additional seconds like your trying to start a fire with a dying piece of coal. Then turn loose of the power button and immediately put your FULL cartridge on. All of this should be done in 5 seconds or less, which would benefit users who use a battery with a 5 second cut-off timer. This process will burn off any remaining char on the coil and your e-juice will cool the coil back down while tempering it a bit. I've found this helps to lengthen the life of the atty, produces awesome vapor, and I don't have to clean the atty anymore using other methods. You simply get prime time vaping time. But, remember you only do this when you're having trouble getting a good vape. Excessive tinkering can, and will, burn out the coil. But heck, since you're playing around with a so called "dead" atty anyway, you have nothing to loose. See what you can get that baby to do!
 
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