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Frostmonkey you rawk! I had an atty I was about to scrap until I read this. Still not putting out as much vapor as it did when new, but it really needs to be cleaned. Going to get on that tonight. Still, it's working FAR better than it was!
GUYS! I just took this method a step further and resurrected COMPLETELY COLD ATTYS! Great find frostmonkey!!!! Instead of scraping the coils, when an atty is COLD just restretch where it broke apart, make sure it touches both sides of coil then mash it back down in there and VOILA!!!! A completely DEAD atty WORKING again! Take it a step further and be very careful w mesh/bridge and u can carefully replce everything but the fiberglass and have like new attys again! 
bc the coil snapped making it go "cold" like a filament on a butane liter...make one end touch the other and BAM, back in business!!!!
Ive used this method on 5 out of 6 completely dead, cold attys and all 5 work now, glow red as can be! the 6th one I just havent done yet!
Just tried it on an 801, works good. Damn, I threw a half dozen weak atomizers away last week!
Thanks for the tip!
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Thanks for the tip!
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I've tried this on an old weak atty and a brand new one. So far it's working great. I'll stop back by from time to time with updates.
Thanks for the tip Frost!
Thanks for the tip Frost!
Me.
It's always good to know your gear and know it's capabilities, quick fixes, work a rounds. You never know where a particular piece of knowledge will take you. Serendipity.
quote=DaMulta;861513]They are cheap who gives a flip?[/quote]
It's always good to know your gear and know it's capabilities, quick fixes, work a rounds. You never know where a particular piece of knowledge will take you. Serendipity.
quote=DaMulta;861513]They are cheap who gives a flip?[/quote]
I didn't read anything about the original poster doing anything with a snapped coil, just that he had basically removed the entire atomizer bridge and suddenly the thing was working again.
I am trying to understand logically how that could be.
Is the bridge somehow interfering with the functioning of the atomizer coil?
Because if it is, there is something important to be learned here.
Ok, all we need now is for one our resident geniuses (ahm SCOTTYBALLS) to devise a replacement bridge. Maybe one that will poke down further into the cart.
The OP was talking of dead but not Cold (coil popped) attys, i went a step further and used his method and found that if u find u have a popped coil, running it back across till it touched again fixed it!
Yes, I noticed that, but still don't have an answer to MY question.The OP was talking of dead but not Cold (coil popped) attys, i went a step further and used his method and found that if u find u have a popped coil, running it back across till it touched again fixed it!
I should have been more clear that my question was in relation to the original post.
I guess that's what happens when you don't quote whom you are addressing.
ooOooppps!!! Yeah, I was confused, sorry
My guess tho...for what its worth, is the icky gunk that sticks to the fiberglass also gets caught btwn the fiberglass and in and around the coil...when u remove the stuff around it, it loosens the gunk...therefore letting air get in there and when u press button, the heat is actually able to escape where it was once airtight in gunk.. MAYBE?!?!
Yeah, I was confused, sorry My guess tho...for what its worth, is the icky gunk that sticks to the fiberglass also gets caught btwn the fiberglass and in and around the coil...when u remove the stuff around it, it loosens the gunk...therefore letting air get in there and when u press button, the heat is actually able to escape where it was once airtight in gunk.. MAYBE?!?!
GUYS! I just took this method a step further and resurrected COMPLETELY COLD ATTYS! Great find frostmonkey!!!! Instead of scraping the coils, when an atty is COLD just restretch where it broke apart, make sure it touches both sides of coil then mash it back down in there and VOILA!!!! A completely DEAD atty WORKING again! Take it a step further and be very careful w mesh/bridge and u can carefully replce everything but the fiberglass and have like new attys again!
That is excellent! I've tried this on 6 dead 510 attys but was only able to get one working and it hardly produces vapor, yet it seems all my dead attys failed somewhere in the wire leads or coil terminals.
It is interesting that without any soldering it's possible to restore a dead atty coil. Picture of how you did this would be amazing if you could
.This mod seems to work because the fiberglass wicking covering the atty's coil builds up with gunk and essentially becomes a part of the black slag buildup on top of the coil itself. After removing the wicking you end up pulling a lot of the gunk off the top of the coil therefore decreasing resistance.
Removing the bridge is simply a means to get to all of the wicking and coil easily, and maybe even give the coil a good scraping. Also, if an atty has a hard draw removing the bridge seems to improve airflow just a bit. Then again maybe it's just me.
Well I tried it
It goes against most common sense but I be damned it works! I did improve to the idea. I noticed it dried out a bit fast so I took a bit of the cleaner of the wicking material and tucked it next to the coil and all I can say is wow. There is a side affect. I may need to switch to a lower nic level as it is kind of kicking my .... at 24mg. If you have a nearly dead 510 atomizer (most 510 owners have at least one) I suggest that you give this one a try. I mean really what do you have to lose? A junk atomizer?
I am wondering how levels of resistance in the atty would affect this treatment. I have attys that died with levels of 12-24+ & other attys that are dead with levels of 0-1. Does this only work if the resistance is high? Are dead attys with a resistance level of 0 due to popped coils that could be rectified by re-initiating contact?
Sorry, I just read many threads about dead attys talking about ohms of resistance being the sure-fire indicator/data that suggests they're in fact dead, yet nobody's mentioned any numbers yet.
Sorry, I just read many threads about dead attys talking about ohms of resistance being the sure-fire indicator/data that suggests they're in fact dead, yet nobody's mentioned any numbers yet.
Resistance of the atty before performing this mod surely affects its performance after. And about your multimeter reading zero. Your multimeter might only be showing zero because it's not sensitive enough to show low numbers as my old multimeter was. If this is so a zero reading means the atomizer still has continuity. Usually when an atty has truely blown you'll get an infinite reading or resistances in the hundreds/thousands.
Just before responding I tried this mod on another 510 atty that was under producing but not dead (mind you I'm not confident in the readings of my multimeter when set to measure ohms). The atty before I removed the bridge and wicking showed a resistance of about 5.1ohms, after it read 3.2ohms. I must say this atomizer has been used with VG e-juice specifically and the wicking I removed had a ton of gunk embedded in it. The coil itself is actually covered by a layer of black stuff but when I heat it up at 6v I see the a red glow (the coil heating) around the sides of the ceramic bowl.
I really do believe my multimeter is giving a reading almost one ohm higher than it should as new KR808Ds I have reads from 4.1-4.6ohms.
I'll post again with updated numbers once I get a new multimeter. Numbers for 510s with this mod and 901s I've been trying.
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