A dz mod :)> ....Ok pdib too

[pdib]

Right. Gotcha. I think I was imagining a different kind of flat . . . . like the bottom of a cube, type flat.

BTW, the button doesn't stay flat and round. It wears, so a design would need to accommodate various pressure points (although not crazy various).

 

[darkzero]

Thanks for the offer dhomes.

Hey Deazy it's time you made a vape video in the video thread here bro

I'm camera shy. I never made a video in my life, heck I don't even like to appear in pictures. Maybe one day....

What did you use to roll the end like that?

I used a pair of mini combination pliers. I love Knipex....

Wonder if a flat top would work fine in there now............

the problem with flat is, if it doesn't land flat you get very little contact area. With Dizzie's shape, there, you're bound to get a good "line" of contact.

But with the how thin the bar is it will flex(or roll)to make a solid contact line when you press the button. After all the button is round so there is only 1 small contact point to the bar so it would allow it to flex and make a solid contact

The reason I did not make the contact pin flat is for the exact reason pdib stated. You'd have to make it the perfect angle to make full contact & even though you will have inconsistencies. The button tops on batteries are not aways the same as well as battery lengths. My older 1600s are not the same length as the current ones.

Yes the bar would flex to point where it might eventually make close to full contact but IMO then the firing pin would be even easier to deform if mashed on. I wanted to avoid that completely & didn't want to have a "delicate" firing pin. Robert's design is a good one & after making firing pins I see why he choose the design that he did.

Like pdib mentioned, with my attempted rounded off triangle shape, the round part will compensate for battery inconsistenties & I made it so the width is the same as the circumference of the button top. That is why it's offset like that. The stock firing pin doesn't make contact on the center of the battery top, not a issue, just pointing it out to explain why mine is offset. I'm increasing contact area as you would with a wider tire on a car. The larger contact area is what would decrease arcing.

The bend inside the point was supposed to be vertical with the round tip of the pin but it didn't come out that way. This was just my first try. Even like this it's so strong that I can mash down on the button pushing the battery down compressing the ground spring & still not deform my firing pin.

I made the tip the same height as the stock pin. On the next one I may make it a tad bit taller to shorten button throw. I could even make it taller of course to work with MNKEs without a crazy long throw but then I wouldn't be able to use AWs in it anymore. I personally prefer the AW 1600s over the MNKEs so I won't go that route. never was a fan of flat top batteries even befor vaping.

 

[NicoHolic]

Risky? What's wrong with a piece of thin metal helicoptering on a drill press? Like THAT's ever happened before...

Drill press? I don't need no steenkin' drill press! Just hold that razor sharp, thin strip metal with one hand and use a hand drill in the other!

That's why I leave this stuff to DZ and others... I like having thumbs to fire my REOs!

 

[pdib]

You know this NicoHog.


With something that small, you don't lose your thumb . . . . . just a good chunk of what used to be inside it. (no more than 1/2 the thumb's contents, I'm sure)

 

[yaypudding]

You know this NicoHog.


With something that small, you don't lose your thumb . . . . . just a good chunk of what used to be inside it. (no more than 1/2 the thumb's contents, I'm sure)

sweet, only half.

 

[SeaNap]

I'm increasing contact area as you would with a wider tire on a car. The larger contact area is what would decrease arcing.

This is true, I really like your design. If the rounded pin was not level and only made contact over a (very) small section, there could still be the potential for arching. DZ yours looks great, but if anyone takes it upon them selves to try this make extra sure that there is enough contact surface.

DZ, do you think that the arching was a result of the robs pointy pin, or could it have been more associated with the type of metal used (because of oxidation over time)?

 

[Jeremy Evans]

Right. Gotcha. I think I was imagining a different kind of flat . . . . like the bottom of a cube, type flat.

BTW, the button doesn't stay flat and round. It wears, so a design would need to accommodate various pressure points (although not crazy various).

True I know that but I think that has more to do with heat from arching along with mechanical wear from pressing the button, mainly heat I would think.

 

[pdib]

YAY!!!! package rcvd. . . . . I, hereby, accept this mission!

 

[pdib]

DUDE! . . . . . Dizzie! At this point, I don't even care if this farking thing works! (my firing pin, I mean)

I am having so much fun!!!!!!





Thanks, man!

 

[pdib]

KAY-SO . . . . here's what I came up with. (Apologies for 2manyPIX . . .. )

I gave it this initial shape (basically just copying Dizzie). I tapered the width instead of notching (where we want good clearance to pass through the Delrin).





Then I rolled some brass shim and inserted it from the side. I then crimped the rolled SS just a tad to grab onto the shim (so it doesn't loosen out).





Then, I flipped the shim over the top and ran it back that way. I didn't instert the shim when I drilled the SS with darkzero's jig. (that jig is sweet! Made a butter job of it) I just poked a hole in the shim for mounting; that way it would make ample contact with the pos. 510 pin (more like a sleeve/cuff than a hole).









Here's my contact point (the length of the cylinder/nose of the pin looks gray in this pic)




The pertinent part of this experiment requires time. I didn't noalox it. I did clean the brass before installing. How will this shape, and these materials, hold up re: arcing/sparking? . . . . . We shall see.

On a side note: I've gained ~ .2V with this setup. ~.15V in brass and ~.05 in the shape. (I haven't tested more than one, so those results need repetition/confirmation)

All in all, I'm super happy with it!!!! Will be treating my other two REOs to the same very soon!

DIZZIE! . . . . THANK YOU, MAN!!!!!!

 

[gdeal]

Really nice work guys! Thanks DZ and Pdib for the detailed walkthrough of your mods. Now I gotta go do this.....

 

[super_X_drifter]

Very kick AYuss pdib. You got skillz there son. Skillz.

 

[pdib]

Thanks, guys!

IMO; the real skills here were in dizzie designing and fabricating that jig!

(perfect design)

 

[darkzero]

Nice work pdib! I just got back from my trip & was using my Grand with the new firing religiously. I'm tired but I just did a quick check on my firing pin in the dark. Still no sparking under normal use & with nothing applied to the firing pin. But if I cycle the button repeatedly & with not much press I do see some small arcing. Probably has to do with any uneven contact from the light pressure. If I give it a firm press as if I'm using it normal, no sparking at all.

Grabbed my Progold pen & gave the firing pin a quick swipe. Absolutely no more sparking when cycling repeatedly. Not like I would ever vycle the button this way under use but I'll continue to use Progold on my Reos too. Once again something the Progold works well for.

 

[darkzero]

DZ, do you think that the arching was a result of the robs pointy pin, or could it have been more associated with the type of metal used (because of oxidation over time)?

I think it could be a combination of both (or should I say all three). Different materials & a different pin shape (as I have found in my experiment) can/will reduce arcing. But the reasons for both the material & pin shape is appropiate & I will still say I agree with Robert's choice in design in case anyone thinks otherwise. High current draw would also would be a factor

As I see it oxidation build up will make the arcing issue worse than it actually would be. Meaning if a firing pin has oxidation build up, if it is not fully cleaned off, the arcing will just come back sooner or get worse. A clean firing pin should last much longer so maintenance is key here. I personally have not experienced oxidatio issues on my firing pins yet, never had to file yet, but I apply Progold every other battery change. So quick & easy to swipe the firing pin with the pen.

 

[Jeremy Evans]

daggumit now I need to go buy me some supplies it seems

 

[element77]

Prolink for the win
I've been selling the ultimate lube at my bicycle shop for a looooooong time. it's the best.
Enjoying the thread

 

[darkzero]

Prolink for the win
I've been selling the ultimate lube at my bicycle shop for a looooooong time. it's the best.

Thanks may have to try that for other things one day.....

But what I'm using is not Prolink by ProGold. It's ProGold by Craig Laboratories, same maker of DeOxit which is also a great product that I like to use.

 

[element77]

Thanks may have to try that for other things one day.....

But what I'm using is not Prolink by ProGold. It's ProGold by Craig Laboratories, same maker of DeOxit which is also a great product that I like to use.

thanks for the specificity! I got exited and about gave my reo an oil bath
I only know what I know

 

[SeaNap]

On a side note: I've gained ~ .2V with this setup. ~.15V in brass and ~.05 in the shape.

I'm curious about this, did you test with a firing pin that was pointy (like robs) made out of brass? What metal is Rob's firing pin made of, Aluminium; steel? I was seaching for the most conductive/least corrosive metal and I found this chart and it shows that brass is not a very good conductor, and is less conductive than aluminium (but more than steel). For you guys that are running sub-ohm setups, I would think that what helped reduce the voltage drop the most was surface area. I believe that dhomes also took the point off the firing pin and made it flat.

I would venture to say that an aluminum shim may be *slightly* better and just as easily obtainable. Normally the metal of choice would be copper but it may corrode faster than aluminium when heated, or if it were to arc. That being said, I am not sure there would be any noticeable difference between the metals used, I have a feeling it only attributed to the 0.05V gain if Robs pointy pin was made from steel. (Sure would be nice to get everything silver plated for $5 )

This is just a theory, I'm not a metallurgist and its been a while since school, so I may be way off base.

Awesome looking pin mod pdib, thanks for all the pics!