Freaking genious! I love K.I.S.S., it's the better way a lot of the times IMHO!
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Freaking genious! I love K.I.S.S., it's the better way a lot of the times IMHO!
LOLNice thing you can just flick the shim to let the spring do its job while trying a new coil.
I'm fairly new with bottom feeders so pretty much the only attys I have is RM2s. I wouldn't want any other to be honest I'm hooked to them
Well it's Friday so I guess I'll probably get the brass shims on Monday. I'll update you on this, count on it
For dripping, skip the igo-l and get some YK1
The chamber in those is fairly small, close to that of the RM2. To me that produces a warmer vape with more saturated vapor
And I own both plus also an igo-w
IGO-S. Working for me. Small chamber. Easy mod for BF, or not. I use it on my dibi-clear (unflavored homebrew) mod. Since the squeezie hole is halfway up the pos. post (where the wire cinch used to be), it doesn't drain juice back down the tube as easily. I run clear in the bottle: but I drip into it with various flavors, and then slowly squonk and vape my way back to unflavored.
I've been using a 510-510 on my REOs to use some of the tanks I had with other flavors. One thing I never do with them is tighten them, as soon as I feel a bit of resistance I stop. How bad do they damage the 510 connection when not over tightening it?
Thanks, it does look a lot better for the REO. That one doesn't need an adapter does it? It seems it could easily fit the REO.
Another good option. Thanks!
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Oh, I don't know. I just know for me, I can't control them. Screwing two things at once with the same direction of threading, I can't tell . .. . well . . .. what I'm screwing and what I'm not screwing. (funny, I know, tee-hee)
Hehe, well I usually screw the adapter on the tank itself, then once that's tight I screw it on the REO. As soon as I feel it's getting tight, I stop to not damage the connector but not that soft that it would wiggle.Oh, I don't know. I just know for me, I can't control them. Screwing two things at once with the same direction of threading, I can't tell . .. . well . . .. what I'm screwing and what I'm not screwing. (funny, I know, tee-hee)
I have two eGo threaded tanks (iClear 16 and Kanger T3) for which I used a 510-510 and a 510-eGo on top of it.
But like I said on my thread I'm finding cartos to give me a better vape, specially shorties for the warmer draw, so I might end up getting rid of my tanks and just getting cartos every now and then for the less preferred flavors. Too much hassle and not a rewarding enough vape.
(not my pic, but)
left: phoenix
right: igo-s
YK1 is narrower than both, the phoenix (that version in the pic) used to best my fave dripper
That is until I got the YK1, but I mentioned for dripping. it does have a sealed 510 connection.
I ordered as second one after a day or so of using my first one for BF modding, haven't gotten it yet though
for $6 is a steal
pics at FT: $5.93 YK1 KTS Stainless Steel Electronic Cigarette Atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Just found out this tube mod on FT: $29.08 Nemesis Mod / E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - stainless steel / with telescopic pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Read the review & saw the youtube video,just posted as it caught my attention that the mod has silver plated connections and the guy sees a .2V drop on the little thing
that's 3.9x to 4 Volts
I'm finding that the firing mechanisms of the k100 and similar appear to be very effective at passing load
it does have a spring at the button, but I doubt it works as a hotspring, you close the circuit by COMPRESSING the button / Spring assembly, so what are you going to collapse? at most as soon as run into a problem or it gets hot you release it and the circuit is gone
Not too different that releasing the top button of the REO
Read the review & saw the youtube video,just posted as it caught my attention that the mod has silver plated connections and the guy sees a .2V drop on the little thing
that's 3.9x to 4 Volts
I'm finding that the firing mechanisms of the k100 and similar appear to be very effective at passing load
it does have a spring at the button, but I doubt it works as a hotspring, you close the circuit by COMPRESSING the button / Spring assembly, so what are you going to collapse? at most as soon as run into a problem or it gets hot you release it and the circuit is gone
Not too different that releasing the top button of the REO
Thanks for the comparison. Yes I want them for dripping only so I need them to be sealed, I don't want excess juice getting mixed with the one in the bottle. I agree for the price it's a steal.
pdib, you might want to try some hotglue on the underside of your shim that will rest against the battery (in the disengaged position), and hopefully that will prevent any damage to the wrapper
Thanks for the comparison. Yes I want them for dripping only so I need them to be sealed, I don't want excess juice getting mixed with the one in the bottle. I agree for the price it's a steal.
From left to right, from my least to best (for me) current dripping atty
A7, IGO-L, Phoenix V2, YK1
(a7 is bottom feeder but I modded it for dripping)
I've used the "liquid" electric insulator in a can. Works great. But if I catch split casing before it falls off a small piece of scotch tape does fine. Scotch tape will outlast battery. I label batteries with marker and use scotch tape over to keep from rubbing off.
For those few of you with 14500 Mini Woodvils, the inside tolerances are so tiny tape around a battery can put pressure on a door; not all of them but some. Been there.
Feisty Alice
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
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Over the years I've had a few shorts with dropped springs from factory attys/cartos during use; mostly cartos.
But I've also had two non short related spring drops from stuck buttons. One was after way over noaloxing for too long making button action sticky on metal REO and the other was from literally soaking Wood REOs in a bowl with Howards. The wax got into the button making it stick on. Both instances I was distracted and not being attentive enough.
Feisty Alice
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
But I've also had two non short related spring drops from stuck buttons. One was after way over noaloxing for too long making button action sticky on metal REO and the other was from literally soaking Wood REOs in a bowl with Howards. The wax got into the button making it stick on. Both instances I was distracted and not being attentive enough.
Feisty Alice
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
That's the point and reason for the automatic safety implements like hot springs or fuses of any kind. If we always paid attention and concentrated on what we were doing and were sober at all times, we perhaps wouldn't need them, but I am human, I know what causes shorts, I tell people to measure before firing, yet still I use a spring every couple months.
Let me plead again - please only bypass the spring if you have another proven short circuit protection in place. I would hate to hear about a flaming REO.
Thanks, Alice. One thing a person REALLY doesn't want to see is a hard short (without the benefit of a collapsing spring) in conjunction with a stuck button! That's pro'ly the worst thing I can think of (right now). So, obviously, general maintenance/cleanliness (say, a good washing of the REO as per Rob's video, every week or two) is a key element in safe vaping!
Absolutely!
This 20Amp fuse thing needs pursuing!
If anyone finds a vendor for single item purchase on these, please let us know. Also, If anyone has one, I would gladly pay you for it: with one in hand, I could fabricate a housing for the REO where the spring usually sits.
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For the metal REOs the only way to get all the noalox out was to disassemble. Hottest water, but not boiling, didn't remove it. My kitchen sink water is hotter than most peeps use as it's only a 4 gallon tank and 4 gallons hot doesn't last long in kitchen if one uses water as freely as most are used to doing. My sink, big side, holds 20+ gallons. Dishwasher heats water but doesn't use much. Old dishwasher, without built in water heater, would stop if tap water not hot enough.) (No children around.)
Feisty Alice
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
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Careful, now. We had a friend once (no kids in the house), super hot water . . .. the faucet/handle went bad (broke) and shot scalding water all over her stomach!
Yikes!!!! We've gotten a few close calls but it's not hot enough to do serious damage. Close calls have been when someone doesn't leave handle in cold position after using. Water travel from heater is <3 ft.
Feisty Alice
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
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