A pdib mod :>p

[dhomes]

All this talk of modding the baddest ... mods you can buy made me decide its time I try my hand at a mod of my own.

It's the only mod on gonna do to my REOs.

Voltage drop before the mod: I don't know.

Mod: switch black wrinkle door on black wrinkle grand with silver hammertone door on silver hammertone grand.

Results: kick AYuss.

Voltage drop after mod: I don't know and don't give a flying rats AYuss. It vapes like a runaway freight train and if I ever need any more power I would just grab my VV grand and crank it up to the Newman setting and scorch the cilia out of my lungs.

Perhaps you modders just need to take all the science out of the equation and just get ya a VV grand

super_X, i know I'm doing crazy stuff....

... and yet, i WONT stack batteries

All we are doing is playing with our mods, trying to get a (runaway freight train)^2

It's just people who are moving from the RBA/Mech Mods world to Reoville and bringing some vices with them (me)

I DO NOT ADVICE ANYONE TO TRY THESE THINGS. the reo is a perfectly nice device as it's.

Yet, some improvements may come out of all this, Rob already posted that he may offer an upgrade kit for the Sub-Ohm people in the future

what's not to like if it comes from the man itself?

 

[dhomes]

Yeah, dhomes, and its 15C, not 15 Amp. (sheesh, an "AW bias", go figure)

point taken

I just don't see why I should pay for one AW battery the amount of money I can get two Sonys 30A for, which btw just showed me last weekend that they fail SAFELY

Off course, one can alway get one of the .001% defective ones

but so you can from an AW, any manufacturing has an error built in (tiny tiny tiny tiny has it may be, but it's there, that's why even the most expensive,well engineered cars need repair to their electronics now and then)

 

[pdib]

point taken

I just don't see why I should pay for one AW battery the amount of money I can get two Sonys 30A for, which btw just showed me last weekend that they fail SAFELY

Off course, one can alway get one of the .001% defective ones

but so you can from an AW, any manufacturing has an error built in (tiny tiny tiny tiny has it may be, but it's there, that's why even the most expensive,well engineered cars need repair to their electronics now and then)

Just razzin' ya'.

 

[Xobeloot]

I may be way off here... But in all of my shiny phallic tubesteaks.... When I was still in the dark ages of mesh wicks and my mods would become unhappy, the coil would pop. It happened. Do we really think that this mod would be any different? What is the probability that the battery would explode before the coil popped?

I've popped a lot of coils on tubesteaks, but never exploded a battery.

-Discuss

 

[pdib]

In a "hard" short circuit, the current takes a "short cut". Usually, it never sees the coil. . . .. Otherwise, the coil's resistance would temper the surging draw on the battery. (and you wouldn't have a hard short). No poppy . . . just poopy.

 

[dhomes]

I may be way off here... But in all of my shiny phallic tubesteaks.... When I was still in the dark ages of mesh wicks and my mods would become unhappy, the coil would pop. It happened. Do we really think that this mod would be any different? What is the probability that the battery would explode before the coil popped?

I've popped a lot of coils on tubesteaks, but never exploded a battery.

-Discuss

i'm coming from Genesis / tubes, your battery won't explode before the coil (if you use good IMR ones, I don't go for protected batteries, the protection circuit have been known to come defective a lot more often than getting a bad Safe Chemistry IMR)

Btw, and I used to do the unoxidized mesh method and oxidize on the mod, every time you fired it you were on purpose shorting the mesh / coil / RBA -> for sure that was the case with the AGA-T, not so much with the RSST

 

[dhomes]

I may be way off here... But in all of my shiny phallic tubesteaks.... When I was still in the dark ages of mesh wicks and my mods would become unhappy, the coil would pop. It happened. Do we really think that this mod would be any different? What is the probability that the battery would explode before the coil popped?

I've popped a lot of coils on tubesteaks, but never exploded a battery.

-Discuss

and the popping comes from having a vey concentrated hotspot in your coil, usually a part of the coil being much tighter or looser than the rest

 

[Xobeloot]

In a "hard" short circuit, the current takes a "short cut". Usually, it never sees the coil. . . .. Otherwise, the coil's resistance would temper the surging draw on the battery. (and you wouldn't have a hard short). No poppy . . . just poopy.

you mean oop right?

I'm no electrical engineer. I get blown up and plug bullet holes for a living. I hardly see decreasing my voltage drop with a little piece of metal to achieve a better vape a hazard.

That's just me...

 

[SeaNap]

There may be a potential for bodily injury bypassing the spring, but its low if you know what your doing and understand the risks, and how to react in a fail situation. It's definitely not for the general public.

That being said, my concern with bypassing the spring would be the annoyance of rebuilding the mod, replacing all of the damaged components, and the cost of those components. The battery would need to be replaced, and the button could melt, coil pop. Not the worst thing in the world thanks to the design of the REO, but could potentially cost, about $20, or so.

Now, what if instead of that silverplated screw that dhomes put in instead of the safety spring, one were to put in a very quick blow 15 or 20A fuse. The fuse wouldnt add a terrible amount of resistance and would certainly be more conductive than the spring, that way if there is ever a short all you have to do is replace the fuse and not the battery and everything else.

I've been trying to come up with an interesting mount for this fuse 0456020. Fuses - Littelfuse

 

[jcalis1394]

I just realized, 3.6V at 0.3 ohms is around 43.2 watts. DAMN. I'm probably going to give this a go soon. I have messed about with coils a good deal of time to be comfortable enough that I won't cause a short. I've probably done a bit over 20 coils already , never caused a short. I always use a multimeter before firing it up, and would probably even fire it up first on a non modded REO. I don't mind the voltage drop and like Rob said, a 0.3 ohm coil on a non modded REO, assuming it would fire at 3V on a fresh battery (1.2V drop), it's still 30 watts. I'd probably do extensive testing of a coil setup before firing it up using this modification, just for safety's sake. But definitely giving this a go, and I just read that Rob plans on maybe releasing a kit for sub-ohm people? That sounds awesome!

Perhaps you modders just need to take all the science out of the equation and just get ya a VV grand

15 watt limit, that's not what they are going for at all .
I'd still get a VVG but I want to wait until Rob gifts us with Woodviles.

Edit: By the way, which battery other than the AW IMR would be good for these sub-ohm kind of setups? I heard a lot of good things about an MNKE.

 

[davewuvswaffles]

There may be a potential for bodily injury bypassing the spring, but its low if you know what your doing and understand the risks, and how to react in a fail situation. It's definitely not for the general public.

That being said, my concern with bypassing the spring would be the annoyance of rebuilding the mod, replacing all of the damaged components, and the cost of those components. The battery would need to be replaced, and the button could melt, coil pop. Not the worst thing in the world thanks to the design of the REO, but could potentially cost, about $20, or so.

Now, what if instead of that silverplated screw that dhomes put in instead of the safety spring, one were to put in a very quick blow 15 or 20A fuse. The fuse wouldnt add a terrible amount of resistance and would certainly be more conductive than the spring, that way if there is ever a short all you have to do is replace the fuse and not the battery and everything else.

I've been trying to come up with an interesting mount for this fuse 0456020. Fuses - Littelfuse

This seems very interesting. At only 0.0023 ohms of resistance and 20A cutoff point, it'd definitely solve the voltage drop issue while keeping everything nice and safe.

I wonder if the anode could be soldered to say a little rectangular plate of brass, secured by a screw like the hotspring plate. The only thing I'm not sure of is how the length (.391"/10.1mm) would compare to the hotspring and plate, though I'm guessing the base plate could be raised if it's shorter in length.

The best thing about something like this would be that when the fuse is blown, it could be swapped out much like the hotspring.

 

[SeaNap]

The .0023ohm resistance is at 2A, the higher the amp draw the more resistance is going to be in the fuse. For those of you trying to vape at crazy high watts, a 20A Fuse would be best, especially with that Sony 30A high discharge batt. My personal goal is to reduce the resistance of the mod so i can raise the resistance of my coil to try and squeeze all the battery life I can out of it (not because its bad, just because i like to tinker). I tend to vape at 4A-5A max so I may opt for a 10A or 15A fuse.

I like your plate idea waffles, I was thinking of a 1/4" thick rectangle of copper (Al, brass, silver plating, so many options) with a cut out in the middle to stand the fuse straight up in. The copper would be attached to the bottom via the hotspring screw. then a piece of plastic to fit around the upper half of the fuse to stablize it when the batt is in place. we could adjust the height of the fuse with the thickness of the rect copper piece. Wouldnt be too hard to make. I would be curious to test this out with an old battery and intentionally short it and see if the fuse really does protect the battery. In theory it should but you never know in the real world.

This may just as effective and easier to instal. It only protects against shorts, I'm not sure how much resistance it will add though. http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/store/...-fuse/1577-2-cents-for-safety-mod-fuse-2.html

 

[jcalis1394]

Now, what if instead of that silverplated screw that dhomes put in instead of the safety spring, one were to put in a very quick blow 15 or 20A fuse. The fuse wouldnt add a terrible amount of resistance and would certainly be more conductive than the spring, that way if there is ever a short all you have to do is replace the fuse and not the battery and everything else.

I've been trying to come up with an interesting mount for this fuse 0456020. Fuses - Littelfuse

I wish I had enough skills/knowledge to attempt this. One of you experienced modders please try this. Achieving this magnitude of improvement on voltage drop keeping safety and without modifying the unit would be fantastic.

Edit: Just went ahead and bought the exact same brand brass shim .001 on your picture, pdib . Time to keep practicing safety for when they arrive.

 

[ChrisEU]

While I have a thread with interested people and a big warning at the start of it and Rob being interested in ideas...
I was thinking of eliminating the spring by using a PTC like the 16R1400G found in this datasheet http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...ettable_PTCs/Littelfuse_PTC_16R_Datasheet.pdf

PTC are resettable fuses, they have a trigger and a hold limit, so they will trigger at, say, 20Amps and are guaranteed to hold up to 12 Amps. As soon as the PTC triggers, it will add some megaohms of resistance, shutting down the circuit, after a couple seconds or even minutes it will open up again.

They add a small resistance to the circuit, the ones I posted add around 0.007 ohms.
This would be a nice addition to the Reos, but I don't see a way to integrate them easily without hardware support.

What do you think?

Edit: Darn, just noticed these were posted before - sorry =) Dang engineers don't read the _whole_ manual!

Edit2: I ordered a couple of different PTCs to try them out on the bench. I will let you know when they arrive. This might actually work =)

 

[pdib]

I just realized, 3.6V at 0.3 ohms is around 43.2 watts. DAMN. I'm probably going to give this a go soon. I have messed about with coils a good deal of time to be comfortable enough that I won't cause a short. I've probably done a bit over 20 coils already , never caused a short. I always use a multimeter before firing it up, and would probably even fire it up first on a non modded REO. I don't mind the voltage drop and like Rob said, a 0.3 ohm coil on a non modded REO, assuming it would fire at 3V on a fresh battery (1.2V drop), it's still 30 watts. I'd probably do extensive testing of a coil setup before firing it up using this modification, just for safety's sake. But definitely giving this a go, and I just read that Rob plans on maybe releasing a kit for sub-ohm people? That sounds awesome!


15 watt limit, that's not what they are going for at all .
I'd still get a VVG but I want to wait until Rob gifts us with Woodviles.

Edit: By the way, which battery other than the AW IMR would be good for these sub-ohm kind of setups? I heard a lot of good things about an MNKE.

Dude, you are scaring me! You've built 20 coils, and you feel confident to try a mod that eliminates the hard short safety feature of your device? I've done more hundreds of builds than I can count. I've modified, deconstructed, or completely Frankensteined multiple atomizers. I've experienced 3 hard shorts on various mods, and am confident that my reaction time and instinctive procedure is good. Let's talk about what can happen and what you will do to avoid that and what you will do when you haven't avoided it, and it is happening!

(not trying to be mean, just wanna be sure you are as ready as you feel)

 

[pdib]

There may be a potential for bodily injury bypassing the spring, but its low if you know what your doing and understand the risks, and how to react in a fail situation. It's definitely not for the general public.

That being said, my concern with bypassing the spring would be the annoyance of rebuilding the mod, replacing all of the damaged components, and the cost of those components. The battery would need to be replaced, and the button could melt, coil pop. Not the worst thing in the world thanks to the design of the REO, but could potentially cost, about $20, or so.

Now, what if instead of that silverplated screw that dhomes put in instead of the safety spring, one were to put in a very quick blow 15 or 20A fuse. The fuse wouldnt add a terrible amount of resistance and would certainly be more conductive than the spring, that way if there is ever a short all you have to do is replace the fuse and not the battery and everything else.

I've been trying to come up with an interesting mount for this fuse 0456020. Fuses - Littelfuse

You know, SeaNap, I was a bit envious that you would grace dhomes' thread with your great idea; but not mine

Thanks for visiting here too! And, yeah, It's a GREAT idea.

ChrisEU, I await your reports on resistance build at higher current draw!!!

 

[dhomes]

You know, SeaNap, I was a bit envious that you would grace dhomes' thread with your great idea; but not mine

Thanks for visiting here too! And, yeah, It's a GREAT idea.

ChrisEU, I await your reports on resistance build at higher current draw!!!

I for one would gladly add a 20A fuse to mine, all I was aware of until SeaNap's input were the 10A VapeFuse that are around

 

[dhomes]

!!!

Vaporjoes just posted some deal on the MNKE batteries, it does have some impressive specs (60A max pulse discharge?!?!?!?)

Specifications
Brand Name: MNKE
Size: 18650
Model: MNKE18650A
Type: Li-Mn (High Drain)
Rated Capacity: 1500mAh
Nominal Voltage: 3.8V
Peak Voltage: 4.2V
Dimensions: 18.3mmX65mm
Rechargeable: Yes
Protected: No
Chemistry: Lithium manganese Dioxide (Li-Mn02)
Style: Flat Top
Color: Orange
Rated Capacity: 1500mAh
Maximum Continuous Discharging Current: 20 A
Maximum pulse Discharging Current: 60 A
Maximum Continuous Charging Current: 6.5 A
Maximum Rated Discharging Current: 30 A
Nominal Voltage: 3.8 V
Maximum Charge Voltage: 4.2±0.05 V
Temperature Range/Discharge: -20~60 degrees
Temperature Range/Charge: 0~45 degrees
Temperature Range/Storage: -20~35 degrees
Internal Resistance at Shipping: 23±1 mΩ
Weight: 40.5±1 g

 

[ChrisEU]

That's nothing special really - you want to look at the Maximum Continuous Discharge Rating and that's a standard 20A on that cell. Pulse discharge (usually up to 5 seconds with 30 seconds pause) is the common 3x continuous rating.

It just means that your cell won't instantly blow up when you go over the rating for a few seconds, as with starting motors, or to give fuses time to react.

 

[ChrisEU]

ChrisEU, I await your reports on resistance build at higher current draw!!!

Just ordered these
Farnell-Bestellnr. Bestellte Menge Produktbeschreibung Hersteller-Teilenummer
1345955 5 POLYSWITCH, RADIAL, 10A; Holding Current RGEF1000
2328657 5 FUSE, RESETTABLE PTC, 16V, 13A, RADIAL; MF-RHT1300-2
1861160 5 FUSE, PTC RESET, RADIAL, 16V, 10A; Holdi MC36176
1652202 5 MULTIFUSE, SMD, 3A, 6V; Holding Current: MF-SM300-2

3 16V PTC rated at 10-13A hold and around 20 to 25A trip - these are all leaded, so they have legs for soldering and
1 SMD PTC rated only 3A hold and 6A trip - but that one is tiny and I may be able to fit it somewhere unobtrusive.

I can get the SMD ones in up to 6 or 7A hold, but that would mean a special order and an import, nothing I am doing on a whim =)

Farnell is usually quick, I might have them at the weekend, ready for a shorting session.