A pdib mod :>p

[ChrisEU]

If the gold plating lowers the resistance by much, like we want it to, the spring would collapse much later or not at all, because it wouldn't become as hot.

I can't talk about the positive contact or the firing pin, but the spring would have to be replaced by a more solid model made from different material, maybe even a different format (I am thinking about the simple fold spring type that looks like a '>' ) - and then you'd need some kind of fuse (either a one time or a PTC model) somewhere.

 

[pdib]

I agree about the spring. The two things we want from it negate each other. It needs to put a drag on the current, in order to create the heat to collapse it.

I know you couldn't put it out for general consumption for safety reasons; but I just wanted to share when and how I circumvent the spring with the brass shim . . .. in the context of brainstorming. Fresh batteries are used with just the spring. By the time I engage the shim (when the battery reaches 3.8-3.9V), I've got hours of intermittent use on the current atty/build. So, as far as the danger of a hard short happening without the spring being put to good use is almost zero. I feel that such modification and use is, perhaps, dangerous when viewed in the context of release to the general public; but really perfectly safe in the context of my personal use.

 

[pdib]

Notes on the 510:

So I sanded and buffed the 510 post down to brass (both the top, and the waist where the firing pin nestles). What I got with my brass shim, my brass sheathed firing pin, and the de-chromed post was 0.27V drop on a 0.4Ω build. Battery was @ 3.98V charge and settled in @ 3.71V under load. This is not the best results I've had to date. But, like I said before, consistency plays a role. I will try to measure my next few coils with all else being the same. (If I have time, I want to throw a "useless" 1Ω build on there, just to see some prettier #s . . . . and to better compare with other people's charts . . .. . say, PBusardo's)

 

[pdib]

Thoughts on the "hybrid". The thought crosses my mind (repeatedly). That, given the current infrastructure of REOs throughout the nation (world), what would be super cool to see would be a specialized atty that could be retrofit into the opening that currently houses the 510 connection. The atty would be inclusive of firing pin connection (at same location as current) and juice feed connection (also same as current). Basically, the bottom of the atty would be configured to take the place of the current 510 (but it would all be one solid piece, or separate pieces very nicely fit for carrying current). One could drill out the current 510, and press fit, or screw in the "hybridizing atty". Maybe, REOs from Rob's "little workshed" (snicker) could be threaded in the 510 throat, and come with atty firmly screwed into place. So, removable; but not to be removed (except in the case of a major overhaul).

 

[UKPaul]

Thoughts on the "hybrid". The thought crosses my mind (repeatedly). That, given the current infrastructure of REOs throughout the nation (world), what would be super cool to see would be a specialized atty that could be retrofit into the opening that currently houses the 510 connection. The atty would be inclusive of firing pin connection (at same location as current) and juice feed connection (also same as current). Basically, the bottom of the atty would be configured to take the place of the current 510 (but it would all be one solid piece, or separate pieces very nicely fit for carrying current). One could drill out the current 510, and press fit, or screw in the "hybridizing atty". Maybe, REOs from Rob's "little workshed" (snicker) could be threaded in the 510 throat, and come with atty firmly screwed into place. So, removable; but not to be removed (except in the case of a major overhaul).

This I like a lot.

 

[jcalis1394]

Thoughts on the "hybrid". The thought crosses my mind (repeatedly). That, given the current infrastructure of REOs throughout the nation (world), what would be super cool to see would be a specialized atty that could be retrofit into the opening that currently houses the 510 connection. The atty would be inclusive of firing pin connection (at same location as current) and juice feed connection (also same as current). Basically, the bottom of the atty would be configured to take the place of the current 510 (but it would all be one solid piece, or separate pieces very nicely fit for carrying current). One could drill out the current 510, and press fit, or screw in the "hybridizing atty". Maybe, REOs from Rob's "little workshed" (snicker) could be threaded in the 510 throat, and come with atty firmly screwed into place. So, removable; but not to be removed (except in the case of a major overhaul).

That is something I'd like to see. One of the reasons I love the REO is because I can pretty much use anything on it, not only RDAs. True, the amount of times I find myself doing that is low, but it's still there. I also change juices a lot so pretty much a hybrid doesn't suit me at all.

 

[pdib]

KAY . . . . .SOOOOO

here's some numbers! . . . .and some interesting findings.

Made a 1Ω coil. Did a number of test fires. The first 3 were with the atty snugged down normal. The last 2 were with the atty given another 1/2 turn (and making sure that the "channel" in the atty 510+ aligned with the channel in the mods 510+: i.e. maximum contact) These numbers, I think are very telling in what's going on at the 510.

First 3 tests' average (normal 510 "setup"): 1Ω coil, battery @ 4.14V charge, voltage under load = 3.90V (V-drop = .24V)

Second 2 tests' average (510 snugged and aligned): 1Ω coil, battery @ 4.13 charge, voltage under load = 3.97V (V-drop = .16V)



"pdib, did you just say 0.16 volt . . . . . under load?"


"Why, yes, that's what I just said"

 

[pdib]

So, for those of you who don't feel like searching it out: here's PBusardo's 1Ω test results (starting with the BEST and not including the crappy half of the list)

Scorpion: 0.11V
Nzonic: 0.11V
K100: 0.15V
[REO from me: 0.16V]
Smoktech Telescope: 0.17V
Electric Angel: 0.18V
Then it all goes downhill fast, dropping by the tenths of volts.

 

[redeyedancer]

If the gold plating lowers the resistance by much, like we want it to, the spring would collapse much later or not at all, because it wouldn't become as hot.

I can't talk about the positive contact or the firing pin, but the spring would have to be replaced by a more solid model made from different material, maybe even a different format (I am thinking about the simple fold spring type that looks like a '>' ) - and then you'd need some kind of fuse (either a one time or a PTC model) somewhere.

I think the best step for me would be to talk to people that make battery contact s . I have spoke to a company out of Connecticut that is all they do . I could waste allot of time trial and era why not ask a pro . I no the spring were are using now is not top shelf its nickel plated steel .

 

[redeyedancer]

KAY . . . . .SOOOOO

here's some numbers! . . . .and some interesting findings.

Made a 1Ω coil. Did a number of test fires. The first 3 were with the atty snugged down normal. The last 2 were with the atty given another 1/2 turn (and making sure that the "channel" in the atty 510+ aligned with the channel in the mods 510+: i.e. maximum contact) These numbers, I think are very telling in what's going on at the 510.

First 3 tests' average (normal 510 "setup"): 1Ω coil, battery @ 4.14V charge, voltage under load = 3.90V (V-drop = .24V)

Second 2 tests' average (510 snugged and aligned): 1Ω coil, battery @ 4.13 charge, voltage under load = 3.97V (V-drop = .16V)



"pdib, did you just say 0.16 volt . . . . . under load?"


"Why, yes, that's what I just said"

This test is without your magic spring ?

 

[darkzero]

I think the best step for me would be to talk to people that make battery contact s . I have spoke to a company out of Connecticut that is all they do . I could waste allot of time trial and era why not ask a pro . I no the spring were are using now is not top shelf its nickel plated steel .

Robert, I know a company that can make springs to your specifications. One of the high end custom flashlight makers get springs from them. One of the types of battery springs they offer is silver plated beryllium copper as opposed to nickel plated steel (which is the most common for battery springs).

EDIT: I'll PM you privately for resource discretion purposes.....

 

[pdib]

This test is without your magic spring ?

No sir. That's the whole hog. Brass shim mod at spring, firing pin modification, cleaned (of chrome) 510+ post, and multiple attempts at seating the atomizers just right in the 510.



0.16V lost, surely you're joking, Mr. Feinman

 

[redeyedancer]

Robert, I know a company that can make springs to your specifications. One of the high end custom flashlight makers get springs from them. One of the types of battery springs they offer is silver plated beryllium copper as opposed to nickel plated steel (which is the most common for battery springs).

EDIT: I'll PM you privately for resource discretion purposes.....

Thanks I was doing some research and looked at the specs from the spring I am using and I came to the conclusion the silver plated beryllium is a much better option . Funny I ended up in one of the forums for high end flashlights . These guys take there flash lights seriously . Thanks for link I appreciate it

 

[redeyedancer]

No sir. That's the whole hog. Brass shim mod at spring, firing pin modification, cleaned (of chrome) 510+ post, and multiple attempts at seating the atomizers just right in the 510.



0.16V lost, surely you're joking, Mr. Feinman

Very nice results
The first wood mod I made the reo had a solid adjustable connection . The only down side is people wouldn't hurt there mods but they would mess up there atomizers from wrenching them on . This is one of the reason I made the connections with some give just like a standard atomizer has some flex .

 

[darkzero]

Thanks I was doing some research and looked at the specs from the spring I am using and I came to the conclusion the silver plated beryllium is a much better option . Funny I ended up in one of the forums for high end flashlights . These guys take there flash lights seriously . Thanks for link I appreciate it

No problem Robert, hope they can help. Yup, that's where I was the most active, I used to mod flashlights for many years. Much of the flashlight stuff can apply to APVs. APVs are much more simplier than flashlights & there's lots of room for improvements.

EDIT: Sounds like you may have found that same company I had in mind......

 

[dhomes]

So, for those of you who don't feel like searching it out: here's PBusardo's 1Ω test results (starting with the BEST and not including the crappy half of the list)

Scorpion: 0.11V
Nzonic: 0.11V
K100: 0.15V
[REO from me: 0.16V]
Smoktech Telescope: 0.17V
Electric Angel: 0.18V
Then it all goes downhill fast, dropping by the tenths of volts.

when you get to the hundreds of a Volts things start loosing meaning, the RDA/RBa, the pressure you tightened it to, where you are measuring (the post screws or the the post themselves) all have a factor at that precision

and off course, the battery

I built a 1 ohm (measured on provri) just for comparing against this, this is what I get on the 3 types of 18650 I have at the moment

This is on a cheapo Phoenix v2

Brand / model
Off charger
under load
-------------------

Panasonic cgr18650ch (10 amp)
off 4.14
load:3.98
drop: .16

Panasonic ncr18650pd (10 amp)
off 4.16
on 4.02 volts
drop: .14


sony 30A
off 4.19
on 4.07
drop: .12

 

[pdib]

Thanks, dhomes. I'm excited to get these Samsung batteries to see just that difference.

And, yeah, I was going to say something similar. From the testing I've done, I can see that the hundredths are fickle. I can gain or lose a few hundredths just by twitching.

I was just happy to see that I'd gotten pretty much to where I'm rubbing shoulders with the top of the heap mods!

Fun stuff, man!

 

[dhomes]

Thanks, dhomes. I'm excited to get these Samsung batteries to see just that difference.

And, yeah, I was going to say something similar. From the testing I've done, I can see that the hundredths are fickle. I can gain or lose a few hundredths just by twitching.

I was just happy to see that I'd gotten pretty much to the top of the heap!

Fun stuff, man!

Indeed, addicting

I doubt any Panasonic 10 amp will outperform the aw 1600 mAh

Btw, which Samsung are those?

 

[pdib]

these ones. this listing says 15mΩ; but I've seen others that say 40

HID Battery Samsung 20A 18650 20R INR18650 20R 2000mAh 3 6V Li ion Rechargeable | eBay

they are listed/comparable on the comparator . . .

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

 

[pdib]

bear in mind that I'm now using my batteries down to ~3.65V, so the curves look even nicer in that neck of the woods.