- Status
Yeah definitely worth a try, the one it comes with is really quite big to be honest. But personally I’m not too concerned about the water resistance, the cap goes real tight without the o-ring and there’s clearance from the cap to the rubber base without it when standing so not really an issue for me.
Sorry for hijacking the thread.
Since my Jackaroo died on me,well i dropped it without the battery cap on so it bent a bit and the battery just didn't fit right in,i was thinking of trying out one of the Aegis.
Had my mind on a Aegis Max,anyone know if this battery cover issue is only exclusive to the Aegis Solo or does the Aegis Max suffer from the same problem?
Asking because well to be honest i can't afford to keep on buying mods so i need something that will last me for a while,things tight at the moment so i gotta make sure i buy the right mod.
Since my Jackaroo died on me,well i dropped it without the battery cap on so it bent a bit and the battery just didn't fit right in,i was thinking of trying out one of the Aegis.
Had my mind on a Aegis Max,anyone know if this battery cover issue is only exclusive to the Aegis Solo or does the Aegis Max suffer from the same problem?
Asking because well to be honest i can't afford to keep on buying mods so i need something that will last me for a while,things tight at the moment so i gotta make sure i buy the right mod.
My issue was actually with the Aegis Max. But fine now without the o-ring.
Ouch!!
Yeah then it's a hard pass for me.
Not a fan of having to fiddle around with a device just so i can properly lock the battery compartment.
Thanks for the info.
No worries. I honestly wouldn’t sweat it though; the o-ring is super easy to remove and honestly feels as though it shouldn’t be there because it’s so big on the Max. Unless you’re a scuba diver, I can’t imagine you’d get any problems with it. I’ve had nothing but trouble with battery caps or doors or hinges for years with one thing or another and this one honestly feels the most sturdy. But if you prefer hinged doors or really need the full water resistance then the Max probably isn’t for you.
Not sure if this is still relevant or helps anyone, but I used plumber’s tape on the cap threads and it fits fine now
Same happened to mine after two or three months. Found an interesting video on the subject. Edit... This video has been posted already. Sorry...
i own the aegis max since like 4 months..
The battery cap is very poor design...
From day one it felt it had a lot of resistance while screwing the cap on the mod....
The battery cap is made with a bad and softer material and not stainless steel..
Maybe their thinking was that the cap will be the thing that will wear our with time and not the mod threads and that way u can just replace the cap and be like new...
The thing is that the machining was poor and the material is wayyy to soft on the cap that since day one u can see black residue coming of by the cratching of the cap threads...
I removed the o ring since first days and the resistance was less but still after few months my battery cap barely holds now...
I am a car mechanic and i can say for sure i know how to treat the threads but still doesnt matter.
Myself i have already found lot of ways to solve it and maybe will go to the most extreme solution and go and make a stainless cap..
But for someone that want to buy the aegis max and i guess the solo and cant be bothered or dont have skills to fix it in future......i will say i recommend to just charge the battery into the mod and if u are worried about the mods longevity u can use a 1amp charger so the mod wont be able to pull its max 1.5amp current and hopefully it may help in the mods longevity....
Other than that its a good mod and i guess charging battery inside it will make mod last longer than the cap that last few months with daily swaping battery...
The battery cap is very poor design...
From day one it felt it had a lot of resistance while screwing the cap on the mod....
The battery cap is made with a bad and softer material and not stainless steel..
Maybe their thinking was that the cap will be the thing that will wear our with time and not the mod threads and that way u can just replace the cap and be like new...
The thing is that the machining was poor and the material is wayyy to soft on the cap that since day one u can see black residue coming of by the cratching of the cap threads...
I removed the o ring since first days and the resistance was less but still after few months my battery cap barely holds now...
I am a car mechanic and i can say for sure i know how to treat the threads but still doesnt matter.
Myself i have already found lot of ways to solve it and maybe will go to the most extreme solution and go and make a stainless cap..
But for someone that want to buy the aegis max and i guess the solo and cant be bothered or dont have skills to fix it in future......i will say i recommend to just charge the battery into the mod and if u are worried about the mods longevity u can use a 1amp charger so the mod wont be able to pull its max 1.5amp current and hopefully it may help in the mods longevity....
Other than that its a good mod and i guess charging battery inside it will make mod last longer than the cap that last few months with daily swaping battery...
Hi, I'm a new member and I know that this is an older post but would love it if you and Geekvape would would hear me out. First, I love my Solo. I want a 1 battery mod and believe I have the best except for the cap design.
Second, a little bit about me. I'm a retired automotive project engineering manager having worked for tier one suppliers and the big 3 OEM's. So I know a little bit about product design. Me design experience includes window lift mechanisms, window latches and locks, stationary windows, adjustable seat mechanisms, and body in white. Body in white refers to the complete shell of the body with all holes and threaded attachments but excludes any actual attachments. Except for the stationary windows my teams design all included thread design.
Lastly, the Geekvape Ageis Solo. I bought my first Solo 2 years ago. From the first time using the Solo I found it difficult to screw the cap in requiring a lot of finesse. But in my first years as an engineer I had been taught to back thread it until you hear the click and then start to tighten it. After about 7 months is when the problems started and the cap would pop loose and eventually it wouldn't tighten at all. My first thought was that well I have big fingers and that I cross threaded it. So I took a fine sewing needle and traced the male and female thread. Both threads appeared to be fine. Still believing that I cross threaded it I had purchased a replacement plan and ordered a replacement. My second Solo arrived a week later. In the meantime I took multiple layers of aluminum foil, laid it over the battery cap opening and screwed it in. It still works like that today. Over time it has become increasingly more difficult to stay screwed in but like I said it works. After about 7 months the new one started to do the same thing. But because of my experience with the first one I took more care screwing the cap in. To achieve better alignment I would hold the cap and turn the mod. Anyone having a Solo today I would recommend always using that method. I still have the threading issue but to a lot lesser degree.
Conclusion, any good design should be robust enough to allow a person with big or small fingers to screw the cap in without having to finesse it in. I'm calling foul on Geekvape for using such a fine thread. Had you used a courser thread these issues would not have occurred. There is a video circulating (a condescending one in my opinion) that shows the proper way to thread it but used a pipe nipple and a connector. The video is true in that it is the proper way to thread it but it's course thread not that of a Solo. I would bet that many Solo owners watched it believing that it was their fault and went away not contacting Geekvape with this issue. The video targeted Solo owners saying you're the problem. I'm saying Geekvape, you didn't make a robust design by not using a more course thread. To this day I use both mods but with finesse and kids gloves. They are no longer water resistant and heaven forbid I drop them. Neither one meets the features that I bought them for but when they're working and in my hand, I only want a Solo.
I agree. The threads are way too fine. But I know people on ECF claim they have no had this problem after using the solo for a long time. I'm not a huge fan of the solo or the max so I don't use mine much, but I try to be very careful when screwing/unscrewing the cap. Screw-on battery caps are great as long as the threads are robust enough to withstand the constant screw action. But when you have a poor design or a soft material, it's only a matter of time before the threads strip and you're left with a paperweight. Pioneer4You made their first mod with a chromed brass battery cap that had fine threads that threaded into a steel thread...after a year it was toast.
I hope everyone is enjoying a good day.
I'm one of those who have NEVER had this problem, and I've had my Solo for several years and bought a few more. My problem is sometimes getting the cap correctly aligned with the threads. My hands aren't the greatest, but I truly LOVE my Aegis Solo and wonder why some people have problems while others do not. Is it possible some are clones, I wonder?
Naw, I don't think it's clones. I think it's a mix of user error and threads being too fine. I also have trouble catching/aligning the thread just right on the first try and the back-screwing technique doesn't help as it does on most other threaded things.
Edited to add: I know someone on this forum who had their battery cap threads wear and got a replacement from Vapor Authority because they bought their extended warranty. I doubt vapor authority sells any clones. They aren't likely to use shady distribution channels. They probably buy from Geekvape directly, actually , since they are one of the larger online stores.
I haven't had much issue with the Maxes I have, but they're also not my main mods atm. I do love them, but I'm constantly testing out other kits.
I will say, when I do screw/unscrew the cap, I apply slight inward pressure simply because it makes unscrewing the cap easier which also results in less pressurized abrasion on the threads.
All of the info in here is good to know though, looking forward.
I will say, when I do screw/unscrew the cap, I apply slight inward pressure simply because it makes unscrewing the cap easier which also results in less pressurized abrasion on the threads.
All of the info in here is good to know though, looking forward.
Yes, that is the key to all mods with screw-on battery caps. Over time you find just the right amount of pressure to apply on a specific mod. This is mostly because of the spring on the positive battery contact in the mod. The Pico Mega has a really tough spring and I suspect that's why I have seen so many people complain they need a new cap for that mod. It's a little tricky sometimes to get that on and off without much friction.
100% agree. The thick seal around the cap area also adds to the pressure here which in combination, is where I believe these thread issues are arising. The seal itself causes quite a bit of resistance when screwing/unscrewing the cap which makes it very hard to get a feel for how much pressure should be applied when removing it. I think if they were to add a smaller spring-loaded ring that sits under the seal or created a sleeve connected to the positive battery contact that when pressed down by the battery, would slightly retract to give the seal a little more give, might help to alleviate this a bit. This sounds like an engineering nightmare though, and they'd have to redo the whole threading/seal system - not something I'd imagine they're going to pursue.
- Status
