I have the old 100w aegis, it has course threads and the cap is ss. I have never had an issue with it in several years now. I haven’t even seen a solo in person, but aegis obviously changed the thread on all the later models. Maybe they should go back to the older course thread, and keep the ss cap.
- Status
I have the old 100w aegis, it has course threads and the cap is ss. I have never had an issue with it in several years now. I haven’t even seen a solo in person, but aegis obviously changed the thread on all the later models. Maybe they should go back to the older course thread, and keep the ss cap.
Well they have version 2 of the solo that they call the S100 and they actually put a thicker oring on it lol. Looks like a 2mm whereas the Solo v1 looks to be about 1.5mm. Threads are still short as the Solo v1 and if they are courser it's not by much as far as I can see in this video.
Much nicer looking mod IMHO. No version 2 of the Max yet, last I checked. I suppose they will call it the M100 seeing how the new Solo is S100 and the new Legend is L200.
The fact that some people dont have problem with battery caps after years leads me to believe that some battery caps are made with better material...
If thats the case i dont think geekvape fixed it but most likely that some of the blocks of that alloy they used to make the battery caps was just softer material than it should be maybe from their supplier...
Also i was swapping batteries one per day and after like 3-4 months my cap still screws but only on the last thread it tightens so yeah it slowly scratches no matter if i was screwing it properly lol... But if someone vapes very low wattages and doesnt swap batteries every day is possible to last years even if the material of the cap is not better....now consider the material is also better then for sure it will last many years
If thats the case i dont think geekvape fixed it but most likely that some of the blocks of that alloy they used to make the battery caps was just softer material than it should be maybe from their supplier...
Also i was swapping batteries one per day and after like 3-4 months my cap still screws but only on the last thread it tightens so yeah it slowly scratches no matter if i was screwing it properly lol... But if someone vapes very low wattages and doesnt swap batteries every day is possible to last years even if the material of the cap is not better....now consider the material is also better then for sure it will last many years
Oh btw!!!!! If u see this video that unclejunkle posted the new aegis has a shiny battery cap!!!! It looks like stainless steel and its not grey and mat like the caps on older aegis made from somw kind of alloy soooo yeah geek vape change the material..
I should be getting the S100 soon for review so I'm curious to see how the battery cap is. The do have an M100 but it's the Mini 2 with built in battery. I posted a review on it yesterday.
The EHPro Cold Steel 100 battery caps are brass however they are course and buttery smooth. I didn't expect such nice threads from EHPro. I used to worry about the threads being brass but I think those threads will actually outlast the board lol.
No much of an upgrade as brass is a softer metal and with the 2mm oring it will cause more wear on the cap. If you have the v1 solo I would switch out the orings.
In my opinion they should make those threads in those kods all from stainless steel or any type of defent metal but kost important to make thic and deep threads even if its just 2 threads lol still better cause that way u know that they wont cross thread if someone is not experienced and also if u dont overtightened then caps will last for ever
My Aegis Boost Pro has developed the same issue within just 3 months. Threads are all "there" but they are corroded to the point that it is only barely holding on now.
No, I've never cross threaded, and O-ring removed.
I had the same issue with the Solo after about a year. It's pretty obvious that metal is being eaten away. That black "gunk" on the threads are pieces of corroded metal.
To me, it looks like an corrosion weld which can happen when two dissimilar metals react to each other. The current passing though the cap would speed up this process and basically ends up stripping the threads by forming "tiny welds" on the threads and then further breaking off tiny pieces of metal every time the cap is re-opened eventually leaving you with no threads.
I'd guess that a change to using the same materials for the cap and thread would probably completely mitigate this issue.
For the record I change batteries about 3 times a day.
No, I've never cross threaded, and O-ring removed.
I had the same issue with the Solo after about a year. It's pretty obvious that metal is being eaten away. That black "gunk" on the threads are pieces of corroded metal.
To me, it looks like an corrosion weld which can happen when two dissimilar metals react to each other. The current passing though the cap would speed up this process and basically ends up stripping the threads by forming "tiny welds" on the threads and then further breaking off tiny pieces of metal every time the cap is re-opened eventually leaving you with no threads.
I'd guess that a change to using the same materials for the cap and thread would probably completely mitigate this issue.
For the record I change batteries about 3 times a day.
Nope, cleaning the threads only removes some of the worn metal, it may stop it grinding off more, but wont prevent the underlying issue that these two different metal types are fusing together when closed and breaking off tiny pieces every time the cap is reopened.
As long as they continue to use different materials for the threads in the unit and cap this will continue to happen.
Last edited:
Noalox might be too harsh as is really only meant to set and forget jobs, not for applications where you screw something on and off daily.
It "might" help with the corrosion aspect, as the conductive material (zinc) may actually act like sandpaper on the threads and wear them down faster depending on the brass alloy that Geekvape use.
Perhaps an Aluminum based Anti Seize compound would be less harsh and might work.
I have a Provari that I bought second hand and the threads are very smooth but you can tell there's something on them. The previous owner put something on them, I think. All I know is that it's a joy to screw and unscrew the cap, which is about all I enjoy about it lol.
Provari's were in a different league altogether (with a price to match!) vs the almost-throwaway-price mods nowadays. If memory serves right they used a really tough stainless all round. Threads were always buttery smooth and you could use a conductive pastes without ever any risk of grinding threads down.
I'd look to something similar with softer conductive materials. Carbon conductive grease might be the best option but it costs the same as the mod for a small tube.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...&keywords=carbon+grease&qid=1633646932&sr=8-3
I think a grease would be counterproductive since any debris that comes in contact would be held onto by the grease. For this reason it seems to me that a dry lube would be a better fit for threads.
Depends on the corrosion protection of the grease, but probably dry lube or conductive grease are only going to provide limited protection if the cap and the body are in fact dissimilar metals, that’s a perfect recipe for galvanic corrosion. Grease may help keep the moisture down a little, but galvanic corrosion is difficult to prevent unless you can actually isolate the two metals.
- Status
