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I think I'm going to put one of my Solos in rotation and even make it my go to mod for a while to see how the threads hold up. I'm not going to lube the threads but I think I am going to remove the o-ring. I want to see if I can get mine to strip even if I'm careful with threading. There seems to be just as may people who complain about stripped threads as there are people who absolutely love the mod and have no issues.
Only reason I haven't put one in serious rotation yet is because it doesn't have a preheat/boost function, but I think I can configure the curve to function as preheat/boost satisfactorily to my taste.
Only reason I haven't put one in serious rotation yet is because it doesn't have a preheat/boost function, but I think I can configure the curve to function as preheat/boost satisfactorily to my taste.
Also it's the stainless that has corroded on mine, the cap looks absolutely 100% the coating hasn't even worn down.
Waiting on the camera to charge to get a photo.
Waiting on the camera to charge to get a photo.
So a couple of Photos of the threads and cap - currently its only holding at a quarter turn.
I might have to go for the heavy handed fix soon to get little bit more life from it temporarily.
I might have to go for the heavy handed fix soon to get little bit more life from it temporarily.
Wow first of all i never though about the current passing and the 2 metals corrosion hmmmmm
My aegis max tho has no damage on the mod threads but only on the cap threads and also i have happend to have a bolt that was made from aluminium but and it had same threading and just to test i tried and it was screwing like butter on my mod...
Ofc i cant use this but just saying made me feel better at least mod threads as in good shape as it was visibly seen...
I was thinking of going so far and make a stainless cap when this cap no longer holds but lately i am thinking i will just screw it on in some way and just charge battery into mod...will depend on my mood when the cap stop holding lol
My aegis max tho has no damage on the mod threads but only on the cap threads and also i have happend to have a bolt that was made from aluminium but and it had same threading and just to test i tried and it was screwing like butter on my mod...
Ofc i cant use this but just saying made me feel better at least mod threads as in good shape as it was visibly seen...
I was thinking of going so far and make a stainless cap when this cap no longer holds but lately i am thinking i will just screw it on in some way and just charge battery into mod...will depend on my mood when the cap stop holding lol
Without a te
without testing no way to be sure what the body is made of, or the cap for that matter, just a guess, the body threads look to be chrome or nickel plate, cap could be ss or any metal more noble than chrome, nickel or even low grade ss 304.
So a couple of Photos of the threads and cap - currently its only holding at a quarter turn.
I might have to go for the heavy handed fix soon to get little bit more life from it temporarily.
without testing no way to be sure what the body is made of, or the cap for that matter, just a guess, the body threads look to be chrome or nickel plate, cap could be ss or any metal more noble than chrome, nickel or even low grade ss 304.
Just had a buddy of mine who works in manufacturing take a look at the Photos (he also has a boost pro), and agrees with your sentiments.
His reckoning is that the threads are probably Chrome plated pot metal and the cap "might" be Ti Oxide coated brass.
This would kind of explain how some peoples caps are going bad and others threads are going bad. If the chrome on the threads is too thin and gets a nick in it the reaction starts at the threads. Where if the Coating on the cap is compromised, the wear starts on the cap.
Bottom line, the materials used appear to be simply, "cheap".
If my threads disintegrate completely over the next while to the point of no return, he's offered to analyze the parts with a spectrometer.
He also had a Solo with the cap threads wearing down previously and now exclusively charges his batteries in-device now to prevent it happening with his boost pro.
Ok I was googling the same issue and it took me to this thread. I had a battery that was kinda of loose and it would shut off on me constantly. I put black tape around and it worked, however I then wasn't able to get the battery out to charge it. Well I ended somehow ruining the threads(and had to go to work and buy a pricy disposable, arrg).
I tried over and over to tighten it.
What I did is take a electric drill/screwdriver as there is a dip in the cap for it. I put it over the threads straight and pushed hard with the electric screw driver and it fixed the threads, and in fact, it made extra threads further down which may help for battery connection issues since the cap can now screw down further.
I tried over and over to tighten it.
What I did is take a electric drill/screwdriver as there is a dip in the cap for it. I put it over the threads straight and pushed hard with the electric screw driver and it fixed the threads, and in fact, it made extra threads further down which may help for battery connection issues since the cap can now screw down further.
Aegis Boost Pro, same problem. I have two battery covers because I had to replace the mod, and it doesn't matter - both of them pop out. The inner threads on the mod are worn badly. I've had this mod since June 2021, so out of warranty of course. A 90 day warranty is just....sad.
Popped out the o-ring, that worked for a month. Cross-threading would be obvious, both when you're doing it and when you examine the threads. I read on reddit that you could try inserting a bit of paper when you're screwing it in, and the youtube video above that shows the Indonesian dude whacking it with a hammer to turn that circle into an oval...if the first doesn't work, I'm going to try the second. I might not stop until this thing is in pieces. Get it together, Geekvape.
Popped out the o-ring, that worked for a month. Cross-threading would be obvious, both when you're doing it and when you examine the threads. I read on reddit that you could try inserting a bit of paper when you're screwing it in, and the youtube video above that shows the Indonesian dude whacking it with a hammer to turn that circle into an oval...if the first doesn't work, I'm going to try the second. I might not stop until this thing is in pieces. Get it together, Geekvape.
Plumpers tape or something to make it screw tight and then charge it with usb i guess its best solution man.
Whacking with hammer should be the last option if nothing works
The paper trick has worked since my last post. Find some thick paper (or fold it), cut it or rip it so it's not very wide and sink it the depth of the threads, then put the cap in and tighten. It might have to twist a bit to grab it. Tightens up nicely.
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First response from GV on this in over a year! That's quick.
Hopefully the customer service responds faster than the rep here! I've sent multiple pm's with no response.
I got my first Solo with a pre-release order. Been using it daily ever since and the threads are fine. I got quite a few more since then.
On one of them the cap wouldn't go all the way in. Removed the battery and o-ring and forced it in. I repeatedly ran the cap in and out over several days. There was metal debris on the threads, eventually that stopped happening and it got as smooth as all the others, it's been fine ever since. I have some experience with how screws and threads work and I'm pretty sure the problem was the bottom threads on the mod weren't cut well, forcing the cap in and out ground off whatever badly cut metal was causing the problem. My guess is, like someone said above, they have less than perfect quality control. If that's the case it wouldn't be surprising if the quality changes over time.
Apart from that I use mostly Solos now and the battery caps have been just fine on all of them. They tend to be very tight initially but get smoother over time.
However, I'm not happy with Geekvape right now. A few months ago I picked up a couple of Solo 2's because I saw them going cheap. Didn't get them out until recently. I set them up the same way as my Solo's, TCR with all the same settings, and they were all over the place. They reset from Fahrenheit to Centigrade when you change the battery. One of them works in C but wildly overheats in F. The other one gives the same unusably tame vape no matter what I set the TCR, Temp, and Watts to. They work fine on Power setting so I guess that's how I'll use them. I checked the authentication codes and they are legit.
On one of them the cap wouldn't go all the way in. Removed the battery and o-ring and forced it in. I repeatedly ran the cap in and out over several days. There was metal debris on the threads, eventually that stopped happening and it got as smooth as all the others, it's been fine ever since. I have some experience with how screws and threads work and I'm pretty sure the problem was the bottom threads on the mod weren't cut well, forcing the cap in and out ground off whatever badly cut metal was causing the problem. My guess is, like someone said above, they have less than perfect quality control. If that's the case it wouldn't be surprising if the quality changes over time.
Apart from that I use mostly Solos now and the battery caps have been just fine on all of them. They tend to be very tight initially but get smoother over time.
However, I'm not happy with Geekvape right now. A few months ago I picked up a couple of Solo 2's because I saw them going cheap. Didn't get them out until recently. I set them up the same way as my Solo's, TCR with all the same settings, and they were all over the place. They reset from Fahrenheit to Centigrade when you change the battery. One of them works in C but wildly overheats in F. The other one gives the same unusably tame vape no matter what I set the TCR, Temp, and Watts to. They work fine on Power setting so I guess that's how I'll use them. I checked the authentication codes and they are legit.
Leaving a comment on this old thread in case anyone else pulls it up and is still confused.
The threading issues on this mod are widely known at this point. The threads on the battery compartment itself are made of stainless steel, but the threads on the cap are made of aluminum. So it’s very easy to strip the battery cap threads over time or with a single misuse as the steel will easily chew up the softer metal. It may not be immediately evident when it first happens, but after the slightest damage, the integrity of the cap threads degrades further with each use until the cap becomes entirely unusable.
Best way to try to avoid this is by turning the cap counterclockwise each time to get the threads to seat properly before turning clockwise to tighten and shut.
You can buy a replacement cap from GeekVape for around $7 USD.
In the meantime, use a thin layer of electrical tape, plumbers tape, or the like placed directly over some of the threads of the cap itself, which will cause the two ends to grab more easily. This should fix the problem as long as your cap isn’t too far gone already.
There is also a YouTube video where someone uses a rag to protect the device while they lightly hammer the bottom of the battery compartment a couple times on each side to make it work again. A lot of people said this fixed the issue for them, but I would strongly caution against it. It misshapes the battery compartment when it’s the cap that’s the real problem. Easier to buy an extra cap or two for $7 a pop than ruin the entire mod. Hammering it would only correct the issue temporarily anyhow.
The threading issues on this mod are widely known at this point. The threads on the battery compartment itself are made of stainless steel, but the threads on the cap are made of aluminum. So it’s very easy to strip the battery cap threads over time or with a single misuse as the steel will easily chew up the softer metal. It may not be immediately evident when it first happens, but after the slightest damage, the integrity of the cap threads degrades further with each use until the cap becomes entirely unusable.
Best way to try to avoid this is by turning the cap counterclockwise each time to get the threads to seat properly before turning clockwise to tighten and shut.
You can buy a replacement cap from GeekVape for around $7 USD.
In the meantime, use a thin layer of electrical tape, plumbers tape, or the like placed directly over some of the threads of the cap itself, which will cause the two ends to grab more easily. This should fix the problem as long as your cap isn’t too far gone already.
There is also a YouTube video where someone uses a rag to protect the device while they lightly hammer the bottom of the battery compartment a couple times on each side to make it work again. A lot of people said this fixed the issue for them, but I would strongly caution against it. It misshapes the battery compartment when it’s the cap that’s the real problem. Easier to buy an extra cap or two for $7 a pop than ruin the entire mod. Hammering it would only correct the issue temporarily anyhow.
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I have several Solo's. Never had a problem with the battery caps.
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