Is it normal as the coil is used more for the ohms to go up? It was at 1.2 pretty steady, now it's at 1.3ohm steady.
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I finally got my 32awg Kanthal (K) A-1 wire today and decided to re-build my coil. It took two tries but the second coil I wrapped was a 5/4 coil and yielded a wonderful 2.3ohm. I tested it 6 times to make sure all coils lit up evenly and when I was satisfied that the coil was good I filled up the AGA-T2 with FV's Unicorn Blood. I must say that I am blown away. Great vapor and awesome flavor. All I can say is on a VAMO, make sure you have the right gauge wire and be patient... you will be rewarded.
Vamo - 9W in NO2 (rms) and Wattage setting, Stacked 18350's
Mesh wick - 400x400 rolled around a large paper clip... torched, quenched and e-liquid burned 3 times each
Coil - 32awg Kanthal A-1 wrapped 5/4
Air Hole - lined up with wick
Vamo - 9W in NO2 (rms) and Wattage setting, Stacked 18350's
Mesh wick - 400x400 rolled around a large paper clip... torched, quenched and e-liquid burned 3 times each
Coil - 32awg Kanthal A-1 wrapped 5/4
Air Hole - lined up with wick
New minor issue... the coil is working but shorting to the edge of the mesh wick. Mind you I did completely oxidize this wick and then some. However, I did not cut off the microscopic frays on the edge of the mesh. Not a big deal as I have some 6"x6" 400x400 mesh coming... ordered two sheets at $5 apiece with free shipping. I am gonna use my EVOD until the new mesh gets here but when it does I think I will fold 1mm of the edge in when rolling to prevent this from happening again. Learn learn learn.
I've been trying to tame this beast since they came out onto the market. The most stable and long lasting setup i've found is a 3/4 wrap with 32g kanthal. After you finish wrapping, pulse the coil for a while with no juice on a dry wick. Fiddle till the coils all glow red. When they consistently glow red every time you fire, prime the wick/coil and fill the tank.
Should produce great flavor with moderate to good vapor production, and set you at right around 1.6 - 2.0 oHms
Should produce great flavor with moderate to good vapor production, and set you at right around 1.6 - 2.0 oHms
It seems to be pretty a pretty good RBA. I have noticed the insulator in the bottom center of the positive post that runs through the RBA is fragile. Mine broke and I had to use the spare that comes with it. Its the clear/white silicone piece at the bottom of the three nuts on the positive post. Also... the draw seems airy to me. I don't know why people say it's tight... it is more airy than my EVOD and close to my MT3's.
A good resolution to the little micro hairs that can form after either rolling or playing with the coil is to pull out the wick and slowly unwrap and use little snips to cut a new clean edge all the way down the whole wick. Then just fire it real quick right along the seem and you should be good. That way you dont waste a good wick
I have set the wick aside... I was getting a metallic taste so I decided to make a U wick... from my 3mm silica wick. I put one more wrap around the wick and it is now right dead even at 3.0ohm. now using a 6/5 wrap. I hate to say it but I am getting more vapor and more flavor... no other mixing of flavor.
looks real good! i'm getting a metallic flavor out of mine too now, so am exploring my options. i'm between a U wick or an unoxidized wick (on a mech, which is in the mail). might probably take a crack at both!
I am actually enjoying this... gives me something to do with my hands and the different results I am getting are adding to my learning experience. I am going to try a few more SS wicks using different methods. Now that I have some butane for my mini torch I should be good to go.
Agreed! great for the hands, but tough on the eyes ;/
And in case you haven't seen it, PBusardo has just done a pretty good/long video on setting up an Aga T+ using the 3 popular methods - single coil, petar k, and pulsing.
If you're getting metalic flavors on SS its usually because of hotspots or you didn't oxidize your kanthal first. If you don't run it over flame once or twice to a dull orange it can be pretty gross.
The microfibers at the edge of the SS can be avoided by simply folding the last 1/4 inch of material over itself for a double layer at the end of the rolling.
I had the best success with the mesh wick by rolling it solid, 1.5" x 3.25" piece of mesh, give it a quick torch to soften it. Roll it tight! start with 1/3 and get it nice and solid then start adding more of the material to it. It'll take a few minutes, but make sure it fits in the AGA-T hole before you give it a quick torch to set the shape. After that juice burn it a few times and it'll still want to short out.
I handwrap the coil installed and try to get the coils just right as I go, it worked best for me with the wick being held in place by the atomizer. I do a 5/4 of 30awg A-1 for a final reading of 1.3-1.4 on a Vamo, and it vapes oh so good at 10w.
You will have to set it down to 6W or so and do some of the pulsing methods to get it set, and jiggle some of the coils gently with a toothpick or safety pin or whatever other tiny object you have.
Now as far as that silica goes.... How's the wicking on that U-Wick setup? I've been thinking of trying that exact setup for a bit now and it looks pretty good. How many stacked layers are at the coil?
The microfibers at the edge of the SS can be avoided by simply folding the last 1/4 inch of material over itself for a double layer at the end of the rolling.
I had the best success with the mesh wick by rolling it solid, 1.5" x 3.25" piece of mesh, give it a quick torch to soften it. Roll it tight! start with 1/3 and get it nice and solid then start adding more of the material to it. It'll take a few minutes, but make sure it fits in the AGA-T hole before you give it a quick torch to set the shape. After that juice burn it a few times and it'll still want to short out.
I handwrap the coil installed and try to get the coils just right as I go, it worked best for me with the wick being held in place by the atomizer. I do a 5/4 of 30awg A-1 for a final reading of 1.3-1.4 on a Vamo, and it vapes oh so good at 10w.
You will have to set it down to 6W or so and do some of the pulsing methods to get it set, and jiggle some of the coils gently with a toothpick or safety pin or whatever other tiny object you have.
Now as far as that silica goes.... How's the wicking on that U-Wick setup? I've been thinking of trying that exact setup for a bit now and it looks pretty good. How many stacked layers are at the coil?
I am having a different issue with the AGA-T2. I was hoping someone who is more experienced than me (which is not to hard to find) can help me out. I get the coils firing all uniform but when I put the juice in, the top coil is getting read hot while the others are being cooled by the juice. This makes for a hotter vape than need be. Is there an easy fix to this. BTW I do have a washer fix on already. Thanks
It could be possible that the juice isn't wicking all the way to the top or the top coil going to the positive post isn't making full contact (loose). Of what I know from installing car stereo's is that were the most heat is located is usually a short from resistance (loose or bad connection).
I would check the wire to the center post, make sure it is very tight and secure, coil spacing is even and if that doesn't work make sure the silicon piece is there where the center post goes through the top of the rba... also make sure the center post is not loose or wobbly. If the center post moves at all, take the AGA apart and tighten everything down. Also, make sure the center pin at the bottom of the 510 connection on the AGA is all the way in and flush.
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It's wicking decent... however, after two hits I have to let it wick some more. I think a 2mm wick would work much much better over the 3mm I am using. It was easy to get into the smooth bore wick hole but a pain to get in the threaded hole. If I try this again it will be with 2mm silica wicking. It is just one length of 3mm wick, no folding or layers.
Im having this same issue with a 28g coil. I have a feeling it is because of what thxone mentioned - the juice is not wicking all the way to the top. I have a 7/8 wrap going, and I think all the juice is being vaporized by the lower coils before it can wick all the way to the top. I have removed all of the juice and fiddled with the coil over and over to where it glows perfectly even, but as soon as the juice goes back in, that damn top coil gets hot. I actually burned a hole through my last SS wick right where that top coil sits on the wick from all of the excess heat. Im not sure how to solve this problem other than drilling out the wick hole and rolling a fatter wick (or using higher resistance wire with less wraps).
I would say higher awg wire (32awg) for sure in a 5/4 wrap should give you 2.2-2.3ohm. Mine is at 2.3ohm. Also, try torching the wire before making a coil out of it... I haven't yet because I keep forgetting but I have noticed that when mine finally oxidizes, it doesn't have the hot top coil. You may also be putting too much power through the coil... though that is just a thought.
Note to self... put the top gasket back in the RBA so that when you take your first vape of a new tank, HALF of the liquid doesn't disappear!!!!!!!!!!! Where did it go? Up into the top of the RBA. Another note to self... put the filler screw back in as well!!! Wasted mesh, wasted coil and 3ml of wasted juice.
I have solve this issue after lots of research I found a method that has worked like a charm.
When you wrap your positive wire around the center post come all the way around to the wire that is going back to the wick and pull until it is snug (not to tight) then put the nut on and tighten. then take the extra wire and wrap it around the wire leg going back to the wick two times and snip off, it needs to be tight wraps. then fire it up and mess with the coils while glowing until they are perfect. This gets rid of the hot spot on any genesis atty coil.
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