I've got to disagree with that. My vamo with an Igo-l at 1.2ohms and 4v is no slouch. The increase in just vapor production compared to my Natural at .7 ohms is only slightly more. Flavor is a differnt story, but if we're talking vapor the difference isn't huge.
Was I just blinded by the hype?!
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Using the same gauge/diameter of Kanthal, the only thing that changes pushing the resistance from 0.8ohm to 1.3ohm is the initial response time on the first drag. Extra half-second?
Plus, less voltage droop taking a drag using a regulated mod so a 0.8ohm build to maintain a great vape is less necessary.
I'm a fan of both BTW, just don't like people thinking the Vamo is limited to 15watts or can't compete with a mechanical at all. It definitely can (unless you like to go past 27watts, then the Vamo fails).
Plus, less voltage droop taking a drag using a regulated mod so a 0.8ohm build to maintain a great vape is less necessary.
I'm a fan of both BTW, just don't like people thinking the Vamo is limited to 15watts or can't compete with a mechanical at all. It definitely can (unless you like to go past 27watts, then the Vamo fails).
I own a vamo lol, I know what its capable of, and its limits
Maybe I should reword what Ive said. I didnt mean to come off to say you cant blow nice vapor with a vamo its just limited to how much of vapor production you can produce compared to a mechanical. Ive tried a dual coil 1.2ohm setup on my IGO on my vamo and it doesnt come close to a dual coil 0.5 ohm on a mech.
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Even with your current set up you should be able to blow some clouds. At 2.1 ohm and 4.2 v were vaping at only 8watts....even at 9.5 watts that isn't much. The ss mesh is a big heat sink....try going to 12 watts. Also with genesis atties you vape differently than compared to clearomizers etc....use your lungs more when inhaling....more like an actual cigarette
It was a big leap forward with my ihybrid when I realized that. Its just a tiny gap, but it helps immensely when setting up coils.
The vapour output now is phenomenal! Thick, oozing plumes of vapour fill the room when I am using it (im sure 20 watts helps...lol)
With the right juice, the right draw, and the right power, you can blow clouds on just about anything whether it be regulated, mech, gennies, vivi novas, cartos, whatever. The throat hit and flavor are where the "tweaking" is important.
I tried 1.5 ohm dual wick, dual coil, dual 1/16" air hole on my AGA-T+/Vamo with stacked AW's @ 15W and I couldn't inhale all the vapor! A single coil 0.9 ohm AGA-T+ on a mech mod is plenty for me (better flavor and smoother TH too), don't even WANT to try dual coil SLR on a mech. It would be insane!
I tried 1.5 ohm dual wick, dual coil, dual 1/16" air hole on my AGA-T+/Vamo with stacked AW's @ 15W and I couldn't inhale all the vapor! A single coil 0.9 ohm AGA-T+ on a mech mod is plenty for me (better flavor and smoother TH too), don't even WANT to try dual coil SLR on a mech. It would be insane!
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idk...i run my cobra with a 5 wrap of 32g at 1.8 ohms...set my vamo at 9 watts...and i'm gtting som cloudage over here.
Hmmmm... glad you pulled this up.
I wish we could clarify/verify all the points of concern/contradiction... there are many mitigating factors.
I mean some are not oxidizing the mesh at all, and getting good results so i guess you could say there's your proof?
(there is a suspicion that oxidizing the mesh can infuse harmful cromium into the juice/vapor)
I only slightly oxidize my wick at the area where the coil will fit.
I seem to ALWAYS (say 80%) get a hot spot at the top coil (28g 4 to 5 wraps) mechanical device. I'll pulse it some and it improves a bit, and sometimes the top coil just breaks (pops), or I'll not mess with it and just make sure its soaked in juice and vape it LOL... seems to work most of the time. So I'm not sure it eventually evens itself out or I'm just vaping a ....ed out coil.
I make sure to tilt every time i vape or it will get hot and burnt...
theres a lot more than meets the eye going on here...
are you saying you keep the wick from touching the rim of the hole?
It was a big leap forward with my ihybrid when I realized that. Its just a tiny gap, but it helps immensely when setting up coils.
The vapour output now is phenomenal! Thick, oozing plumes of vapour fill the room when I am using it (im sure 20 watts helps...lol)
I could never get my Provari Cobra (32g 4/3 wrap.. 1.7 Ohms) to cloud to my satisfaction... the airhole on the Cobra is 1mm...tight; i felt like i was a human vacuum.... but that's me... i'm sure others are doing better with that setup... including Duane AG see his youtube of same pair.
and now that i use it on a Poldiac with 28g, 4/3 wrap, .9 Ohms, it blows the cap off the Cobra with luscious vapor.
While the non-oxidized mesh is not initially oxidized, it does "oxidize" to a point after pulsing out the hot spots. The remainder of the mesh below the coil is not oxidized, but the portion directly above and below the coil does get oxidized by the heat of pulsing the hot spots out. I don't oxidize my wicks at all, but after some pulsing the top is just as black as if I had while the rest of the wick stays nice a gray and no darkening of the juice or weird flavor.
Exactly right. To clarify what I meant, on this type of coil only induced oxidized wick, the portion of the wick that is not oxidized at all where it passes trough the wick hole makes the wick more conductive to the body. So what ever current that is passed from coil to wick has a better path to ground.
Maybe you're coil is too tight. If I see a top coil hot spot I just roll the wick a little tighter. I've gotten to the point now where I can put my wick in and know if it's too tight and I almost never get that hot spot. If I do it's just for a second before it's gone. I don't really oxidize my wick either. I just burn it for a second to get the packing oils off. Not even long enough for it to turn red.
I tried getting it to hover in the center, but it is touching. However, there are only a few points of contact, which I think minimizes the potential for shorts.
I saw this mentioned in AlmightyGod's interview with faceless... said people with persistent top coil hot spots just need to make the wick so that its not tight in the hole... usually this will relieve the top hot spot on its own, as the wick isnt acting like a giant ground post.
Why the coils pop is that you are literally shorting the coil, putting all that voltage through a tiny section of wire. I ohmed out where it popped one time, and I got 0.05 ohms. So 4.12V going through Kanthal A1 at 339.5 watts! This causes it to get so hot that it literally melts! That's assuming absolutely no voltage is getting passed the short... keep in mind these numbers are trivial, as my meter is not very accurate at that low ohmage. However I know its lower than 0.1 as the needle wasn't at 0.1, and wasn't quite at 0... You also have to assume that the wick itself has resistance (when its shorted), so the wattage wont be quite that high, but it does demonstrate just why a coil pops.
I find that a gap isnt necessary, just a wick that isnt tight in the hole. When I started, I was rolling my wicks so they would be tight, because I thought that was how it should be done... but I popped 30 coils in a row, and rolled over 10 wicks before I got a good setup (with a looser wick... or rather tight, dense wick, loosely fit in the wick hole.) Keep in mind the iHybrid is very conductive, so YMMV.
I thought I had gotten them down, as I could build excellent working coils within 10 minutes on both my Chid, and Zenesis... but for some reason I had a lot of difficulty on the iHybrid...
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Hot coils doesn't necessarily mean a short....you can have a hot coil where the coil doesn't actually touch the wick. The wick acts like a heat sink and any loose coils around a wick will result in a hot coil as well. And these are the type of hot coils that you can't pulse away. So next time you use the drill bit method.....when pulling on the wire to go around the positive post...use pliers to do it. Using pliers and using as much force as possible will actually pull out any slack of wire around the drill bit. Once you do this you will never have hot coil problems again.
It takes me literally 5 seconds of pulsing to get all 6 of the coils glowing evenly on a 3/32 wick on my cobra when using 28g wire. Shorts can quickly be pulsed away....but slack in the coil is a different matter.
i am so non tech... ugh..don't even have a drill... but i did use the long allen wrench handle the Cobra comes with to get my last coil, and it has lasted a couple weeks... thanks for the tips
Good advice. I always leave enough wire beyond the + and - connections, so that I can grab the wire with a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers, and take up slack, if necessary. Also, when you look at your coils, if you see any spaces in between the wire and the wick, you can get rid of the space by cocking the wire. If it's like this | and there is a space, move it like this \ and it will eliminate the space.
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