Was I just blinded by the hype?!

[ukeman]

I wondered about the space between the top coil and post too...
I've tried keeping the wick as close as possible without touching, and up til now haven't tried the pliers trick... some have suggested putting a kink at the top coil with fingernail to close the gap.

Good advice. I always leave enough wire beyond the + and - connections, so that I can grab the wire with a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers, and take up slack, if necessary. Also, when you look at your coils, if you see any spaces in between the wire and the wick, you can get rid of the space by cocking the wire. If it's like this | and there is a space, move it like this \ and it will eliminate the space.

 

[EDO]

Good advice. I always leave enough wire beyond the + and - connections, so that I can grab the wire with a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers, and take up slack, if necessary. Also, when you look at your coils, if you see any spaces in between the wire and the wick, you can get rid of the space by cocking the wire. If it's like this | and there is a space, move it like this \ and it will eliminate the space.

Since using the pliers and just really using a lot of force the get rid of any slack, I haven't needed to do adjustments like your describing with the 28g wire but that is definitely the way to do it if it comes up.

 

[EDO]

I wondered about the space between the top coil and post too...
I've tried keeping the wick as close as possible without touching, and up til now haven't tried the pliers trick... some have suggested putting a kink at the top coil with fingernail to close the gap.

If you use the drill bit method then you want the drill bit...in your case the allen wrench to be perfectly vertical. If you have high end atties(which you do)...then the distance to the positive post is minimal...and shouldn't matter. Now the only thing is make sure the top wire from the wick doesn't go on the same side of the positive post...it should go to the opposite side of the positive post. This will insure that you have the most contact with the wick before the wire goes to the positive post. I know did a poor job of explaining ....so hope you got it.

If you use the kink method to get extra contact to the wick.....there could be a problem...if you put too muchof a kink....guess what you will have a hot spot exactly at that point.

 

[ukeman]

Since using the pliers and just really using a lot of force the get rid of any slack, I haven't needed to do adjustments like your describing with the 28g wire but that is definitely the way to do it if it comes up.

about the pliers, this may be dumb, but when do you use the pliers? after you tighten the top nut? sounds like is you need force, its going to be closed (the nut)

 

[Rule62]

about the pliers, this may be dumb, but when do you use the pliers? after you tighten the top nut? sounds like is you need force, its going to be closed (the nut)

If I'm using a drill bit, which I do sometimes, not always, I snug the top and bottom connections. Then, one end at a time, I loosen one of the connections, and pull the slack out. Then retighten. If I'm re coiling a used wick, I wrap the coil in place. And I do the same thing. loosen and pull out the slack. One end at a time.

 

[EDO]

Pull the wire with the pliers to go around positive positive post and keep the tension before and while tightening top nut. The whole point of pulling the wire is to make sure there is no slack in the coil going around the drill bit...usually happens in the top or top two coils....which results in the coils being hot.

 

[TheToxic_jon]

Alright so I'm vaping an AGA-T2 with 4 32g kanthal wraps around a mostly solid (with paper clip sized hole) in my 400 SS mesh wick.
Using my VAMO at around 4.2V with the Atty reading around 2.1 ohms. No hot spots, great flavor, but I'm just not getting CLOUDS.
My air hole gives me a slightly airy draw, and I've tried covering it slightly with my fingernail to see if that made a difference.

I got into RBA's with the intention of not being able to see anything in front of me when I vape. What advice do you have to give, or is there another (not ridiculously expensive) RBA out there for me?

Or should I try different gauge wire, etc etc.
thanks!

4.2 at 2.0 ohm isnt that extreme. kinda weak to be frank. i would set your vamo at like 13watts and see how she vapes. then work from there. but try to stay in wattage mode

 

[TheToxic_jon]

You wont blow clouds on the vamo. gotta vape sub 1 ohm on a mech mod

you can blow big clouds on a vamo if you use a 1.5ohm 306 at 13watts. so i would imagine at 2ohms and 13watts you will get lots of vapor

 

[ukeman]

I tried to get my pre-made Penelope wires down to 1.5 but it slips under so i took it off my SS Zmax and on the Polidiac it is super wow.

 

[TheToxic_jon]

ya bro the poldiac is a great mech mod as long as your battery is around 4v then you should be getting a great vape

 

[ukeman]

I use AW IMR or MNKE 18650 only (thinking about 18490 AWs)... the power output is fine for a good few hours at least, of heavy vaping.

ya bro the poldiac is a great mech mod as long as your battery is around 4v then you should be getting a great vape

i don't think the MNKE is worth $15 (only price avail. i know of, at Avidvaper)