Alexander Mundy's Magic Twisted Ribbon
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To the best of my knowledge, this is the first Mundy wrap on ceramic.
Not a perfect job, but this coil is really difficult with ceramic, being particularly grabby. The coil wire is a double twisted 0.7x0.06 ribbon (thanks gdeal) weighing in at about 27Ω/m. The pictured coil is on a ~5mm aluminum oxide ceramic wick installed into an RSST without insulator, 3-wrap at 1.4Ω.
Not a perfect job, but this coil is really difficult with ceramic, being particularly grabby. The coil wire is a double twisted 0.7x0.06 ribbon (thanks gdeal) weighing in at about 27Ω/m. The pictured coil is on a ~5mm aluminum oxide ceramic wick installed into an RSST without insulator, 3-wrap at 1.4Ω.
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It vapes OK. Not spectacular, nor terrible. But yes, the coil is fairly high and it tends to dry out with long hits. This has potential, but will need some tweaking.
In other news, introducing the world's first ceramic birdhouse Mundy wrap
I had high hopes for this one, but it looks like it's a complete and miserable failure. I get no vapor out of it.
Nice Birdhouse! I am all for expanding the horizon of the Mundy Magic, but I suspect that to get the full benefit compared to cotton/hemp, etc. this wire is gonna need a grooved ceramic to get more wick/wire apposition. I may need to carve up some AO to try this out too.
Strange, since the Mundy Magic sensation, I have only one atty left with ceramic in it....
(...its the Reo)Respect for trying the birdhouse DrMA. 
I do agree with gdeal that ceramic or even mesh just aren't right for the Mundy Magic, which has me watching from afar, literally and figuratively.
I do agree with gdeal that ceramic or even mesh just aren't right for the Mundy Magic, which has me watching from afar, literally and figuratively.
Nice Birdhouse! I am all for expanding the horizon of the Mundy Magic, but I suspect that to get the full benefit compared to cotton/hemp, etc. this wire is gonna need a grooved ceramic to get more wick/wire apposition. I may need to carve up some AO to try this out too.
Strange, since the Mundy Magic sensation, I have only one atty left with ceramic in it....
On the topic of going back from ceramic to organic wicks <- sacrilege
Respect for trying the birdhouse DrMA.
Otherwise, I'm inclined to agree with both of you in that the MM wire needs a much higher contact zone with the wick than any other type of wire. In fact, I also considered building a ceramic wick with a spiral groove that would house the Mundy coil, giving a much more intimate contact between wick and coil. This is of course much easier said than done...
On the topic of going back from ceramic to organic wicks <- sacrilege
Otherwise, I'm inclined to agree with both of you in that the MM wire needs a much higher contact zone with the wick than any other type of wire. In fact, I also considered building a ceramic wick with a spiral groove that would house the Mundy coil, giving a much more intimate contact between wick and coil. This is of course much easier said than done...
IDK once the hemp is good and washed and boiled its pretty good.
On ceramic I have been contemplating crushing up some AO into packable bits (not dust) and packing around a vertical coil.....Possibly with some 2 wire MM...IDK...anyway thinking along the lines of carto.
Ceramic wicks and such . . . . .. .
Some of us were talking before about MM in the REO with cotton (Mundy and me, anyway). The cotton is way deep in the middle of it, and the substantial portion of the twists and giggles in the wire are not contacting that cotton. When we squonk, we basically submerge that whole wikicoil, and the shapes in the coil hold onto enough juice to get a good toot off of it (and then some). I can certainly get a second good vape from it without squonking. (I take long toots at low resistance.) What I'm driving at, is that I think there's something at play where, if the coil is sufficiently wetted, then the process of vaporization on its surface kin'a draws more liquid up onto it. Once the cotton core loses saturation, there isn't enough to draw more out onto the wings. So, I guess, what I'm wanting to suggest is not so much that you look at more contact area (like grooves in the ceramic); rather that you have more juice at the surface of the ceramic. . .. . . ???? Whatever, just thinking out loud.
Some of us were talking before about MM in the REO with cotton (Mundy and me, anyway). The cotton is way deep in the middle of it, and the substantial portion of the twists and giggles in the wire are not contacting that cotton. When we squonk, we basically submerge that whole wikicoil, and the shapes in the coil hold onto enough juice to get a good toot off of it (and then some). I can certainly get a second good vape from it without squonking. (I take long toots at low resistance.) What I'm driving at, is that I think there's something at play where, if the coil is sufficiently wetted, then the process of vaporization on its surface kin'a draws more liquid up onto it. Once the cotton core loses saturation, there isn't enough to draw more out onto the wings. So, I guess, what I'm wanting to suggest is not so much that you look at more contact area (like grooves in the ceramic); rather that you have more juice at the surface of the ceramic. . .. . . ???? Whatever, just thinking out loud.
Interesting point, pdib. I'm not sure the MM wire can exert enough capillary force to extract juice from a ceramic wick... Porous Ceramic doesn't get soaking wet like fibrous material.
Anyways, here's the grooved ceramic. Better, but I still don't see any magic.
As a diversion, I also tried a MM wrap on hemp fibre core in a genny. Again, I'm not impressed. Am I just a tough customer, or am I missing something?
Anyways, here's the grooved ceramic. Better, but I still don't see any magic.
As a diversion, I also tried a MM wrap on hemp fibre core in a genny. Again, I'm not impressed. Am I just a tough customer, or am I missing something?
It seems the MM likes to be really well wetted, almost to the point of being submerged, with ceramic the birdhouse has the best chance to do this wetting. Mine get almost too wet sometimes. I also noticed that with a standard wraparound coil on a 1/8" wick that once the wick had snapped just above the wick hole, the coil portion was not getting enough juice delivery, even though there was only a small gap between wick pieces, it took me awhile to figure out it was actually snapped.
Also the pointy spikes of MM keep the contact surface of a coil with a 'hard' wick low....
Mr. Mundy, I think you are onto something with a wickless coil, it just needs the right balance of air and juice in the Porous Wire. What if the squonking were more precise like a mister spraying the coil? It would be a complete PIA to build, but for testing purposes a mister bottle used like dripping maybe on a Pancake Coil?
Also the pointy spikes of MM keep the contact surface of a coil with a 'hard' wick low....
Mr. Mundy, I think you are onto something with a wickless coil, it just needs the right balance of air and juice in the Porous Wire. What if the squonking were more precise like a mister spraying the coil? It would be a complete PIA to build, but for testing purposes a mister bottle used like dripping maybe on a Pancake Coil?
That's so funny! I was thinking mister while I was typing last night! (But then I thought, "that's totally around the bend style CRAZY!" . . . .. too crazy to even mention)
↑ that's groovy!
If I find a little time, I may make up a bit of 2 wire wrap for comparison . . .. just to see if you are even starting on a level playing field, Doc.
dude, this is what I've been thinking for a while now and everyone says just get a reo, so I got a reo, and it's pretty awesome, but I still want to build a setup that has a glass tank and a mechanical pump in the base. have the atty set up like the coil in and over a tiny sink, when you pump the button the feed sprays up onto the coil, fully saturating everything then whatever excess drips back down would get sucked back down the drain of the sink. something like this might help towards a wickless coil, and if anythings gonna work like that it would probably be twisted wire with orifices and facets, mundy's magic would probably be perfect for this. I designed it originally to work with a wick but if I have the feed atomise a bit finer spraying from a nozzle then a wick might not even be necessary. good part abou a pump instead of a squonk bottle is higher pressure potential meaning a finer orifice at the spray nozzle and a finer atomised spray, like a paint spraygun type mist http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...n/454929-building-ultimate-bottom-feeder.html
here's a pic of the design
how about using a small CO2 cartridge...
use that to spray up the liquid...
it would give you the higher pressure you want since a small pump might not give you the pressure you want.
Ahh there you go, it's a regular top-feeder revival! They seem to have died off with the onset of bottom feeders and then tanks. Madvapes has small misters PLASTIC MISTER VIALS 8mL, With your sink analogy, it is like a shower head on the kitchen sink, but mounted in the drain. With all due respect, a bottom feeder is rather like backing up a toilet... which is oh so elegant.
A manual mister has a metered dosage built in, so the return suction could even be avoided, one would learn how many times to spray for a given time/vapes. Also, if the ball bearing is removed from the pump, then the mister actually does all the back suction for you, and when spraying from the bottom, it is a done deal.
I'm really not sure if I'd want to build any of this, I do like the passive wicking of a wick in a tank and never really cared for dripping.
A manual mister has a metered dosage built in, so the return suction could even be avoided, one would learn how many times to spray for a given time/vapes. Also, if the ball bearing is removed from the pump, then the mister actually does all the back suction for you, and when spraying from the bottom, it is a done deal.
I'm really not sure if I'd want to build any of this, I do like the passive wicking of a wick in a tank and never really cared for dripping.
that would complicate it a lot, want smallest size and simplest serviceability as practical. adding a co2 cartridge and the need to constantly recharge that would go against all that. really wouln't need so much pressure, think perfume sprayer or windex type thing.
I was also thinking back then what if the juice chamber itself is pressurized each time it's filled, and if the spray was calibrated really fine and a solenoid automatically opened the spray valve as the coil is triggered... hmm, that might be a bit much, but not impossible either. but then the problem would be sucking straight juice mist into the airstream as you vape too, so simultaneous spray as you vape would take a whole lot more engineering to avoid that and get full combustion. much easier to feed the coil then vape then feed then vape, but a feed as your vaping would be awesome if it could be done correctly. that's a little beyond what I have in mind as practical though. then again maybe not
What if you had a small feeder tube sticking up just between your air hole and coil? As you suck air over the top, it mists the coil exactly like one of the old style perfume bottles. Of course once you drill your air hole you would probably mess it up. But you could in theory get a tube (or several) that have small enough ID to draw the juice up to the top via capillary action so it's always ready.
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you will definitely wind up sucking at least some juice mist, would be hard to configure it to evoprate the whole mist entirely yet still maintain good airflow
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